Xtremehorticulture

Prune Crapemyrtle in Winter or Early Spring

Q. When is it best to prune crapemyrtle?  I’ve heard before winter, and again just before spring.  The last two years I trimmed back the branches (it is only about 5’ tall, about 1/3 of the way in late February.  What is right?  We live in Aliante. Crepemyrtle being evaluated at UNLV Center for Horticulture and Water Conservation in North Las Vegas. It is fertilized with an all purpose soil applied fertilizer, foliar applied Miracle Gro and EDDHA iron chelate along with a wood surface mulch. A. General rule of thumb on all flowering trees and shrubs is that pruning which affects flowering is always best done just after bloom so that the plant will have a chance to set flower buds for next season. If the pruning does not affect flower production, then prune in the winter.             Large limb removal should be done during the winter on all trees. If you are shearing it or in some way removing a lot of the ends of young branches then wait and do it just after it has finished flowering.             Large, heavier flower clusters and out-of-control growth results when branches are cut back severely. Flowers that result from these types of cuts can be so heavy that they bend branches toward the ground.  For this reason, do not cut the branches back to stubs every year.             Crapemyrtle blooms on new growth like oleander and pomegranate so it can be pruned in the spring and it will still flower normally throughout the summer. Summer shearing will affect flowering.

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Bougainvillea Protection From Freezing

Q. While most of our bougainvillea are in large pots which we bring in doors for the winter; this year we planted one in an above ground planter built around the Jacuzzi. My question is what should I do to help it survive the winter without having to dig it up and transplant it again in the spring. Should that even be an option? A. I like your idea of wrapping the bases of the plants before any freeze. Unless you have a very warm microclimate in your yard, and there are some in Las Vegas, you will see damage to them at the first light freeze with temperatures below 32° F. Wood mulches will also protect the base of bougainvillea but wrapping it is more effective. This way when it freezes it will kill the top of the bougainvillea to the mulch or wrap and not much further.  Of course this works to temperatures below freezing for short periods of time. If the temperatures are extremely cold or at these temperatures last a long time that it may freeze the plant to the ground. How well you protect the base of the plant will determine how strong it will come back, or not, next spring. Having bougainvillea in the spot in the yard which does not have a lot of wind and is very close to a warm, South or even better yet, West-facing wall will improve its chances for survival. Plants that freeze to the ground will come back like gangbusters next spring because of their established root system. Plants that are planted in the spring have to grow both the roots and the tops and so growth is divided between the two. Plants that have an established root system only have to grow the top back and so all of that growth goes to top growth and we see huge amounts of growth in the spring. You do not want to feed them anything this time of year. This goes for any winter tender plant. These plants should get no fertilizer applied to them any time after mid-August. Fertilizers which stimulate new growth will cause the plant to become more succulent and lower its chances of surviving winter freezes. This is not true of plants that have no problem surviving winter freezes. In fact, those plants can receive mid fall applications of fertilizer with no problems. A mid fall application of fertilizer can substitute for a Spring application but not winter tender plants.

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France Overtakes UK, Canada and Australia for Number 2 Blog Spot

Readers of Xtremehorticulture of the Desert Blog are in the thousands all over the world. The Blog was designed specifically to address questions regarding desert horticulture or how to work with domesticated plants in arid and desert environments. My Blog has always had a strong readership from Australia and understandably because of its arid and desert climates in much of the country. Desert horticulture is a unique type of horticulture and it takes awhile to adjust and learn it if you are from wetter parts of the world. The climate, soils, plants all are very different from “normal” horticulture and gardening. So it makes sense that readers from the Middle East, Central Asia and other hot dry places read Xtremehorticulture. But why France? It surprises me that France has taken over the number 2 spot in readership of Xtremehorticulture for the day, week,  month and even of all time over the likes of all the others. I don’t understand it but …Vive la France!

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Red Bird of Paradise Will Regrow After Winter Freeze if Protected

Q. I’m desparate to have at list one of the beautiful Red Bird Of Paradise in our backyard. Four years ago we planted four Red Bird Of Paradise 5 gallon plants in the backyard and the front of our house. They looked healthy during the first summer and fall but they did not bloom. The next spring they all regrew from the ground. The old branches all dried out during the winter time.  This process has been repeating for the last four years. I replaced two of the original plants that did not survive the winters at all. The problem is that what grows back in spring does not get any higher than around 16 inches during the summer and they do not bloom either. Though, they look nice and healthy. A. If this is truly the Mexican Red Bird of Paradise it is probably freezing back during the winter since it is nearly an herbaceous perennial in our cold desert climate. You would treat it much like you would any other plant that regrows from the ground each year. The trick will be to make sure you protect the crown of the plant from dying from low temperatures during the winter. You can do this by pruning it to the ground in mid December or after a mild freeze and mounding soil or dense mulch until about the first week of March. At that point in our climate the threat from a late spring freeze is over and you can give it a kick in the pants with an all purpose fertilizer and water. Bougainvillea will be and perform the same. Background on Red Bird of Paradise Flowers of red bird of paradise. I am not sure where I got this picture any more. We almost never plant red bird in Las Vegas because of freeze damage. The Yellow Bird of Paradise is more cold tolerant but it too will freeze back in cold winter locations if temperatures get much below 20F (-6C). This is about the same threshold for freezing as the salmon colored dwarf oleander. Yellow bird of paradise trained into tree form in Las Vegas. I am not a big fan of it like this but it can be done. It would probably be better if it did not stand alone in a planting but had an understory of plants.  Background on yellow bird of paradise I would put this Red Bird in a hot, protected part of the yard where it can stay out of winter winds and has a south or west facing wall it can get heat from during the winter. Make sure you amend the soil at the time of planting with lots of good compost and a fertilizer high in phosphorus. If you can get it to make it through a winter I think it will bloom for you. It sounds like it is just not getting enough size to initiate flowers. Amend the soil at planting, water it deeply when you water and make sure it is getting enough water (perhaps increase the size or number of emitters) and put down one application of a flower inducing fertilizer like rose food in the early spring and don’t fertilize it again. But it IS winter tender here.

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Realize the Plant Parts You Are Eating

We eat all sorts of plant parts without realizing what we are eating. Different plant parts often have different types of nutritional qualities. Vegetables eaten as sprouts Adzuki Alfalfa Beetroot Broccoli Chick pea Cress Lentil Mung Beans Mustard Onion Peas Red Clover Red Radish Soybean Oats Barley Rye Amaranth Sesame Sunflower Instructional guide to sprouting seeds  Generally speaking any vegetable (even some flowers) NOT in the tomato family can be tried as sprouts. Make sure the vegetable seed has not been treated with a fungicide. Fungicides are sometimes dusted on the outside of seeds to help prevent certain diseases common during germination such as “damping off”. Vegetables eaten as leafy greens Amaranth Arugula Beet greens Mizuna growing in the Orchard. A very hardy and great selection for harsh environments. Bok choy Broccoli Rabe Brussels sprout Cabbage Celery Ceylon spinach Chard Chicory Chinese cabbage Chrysanthemum leaves Collard greens Corn salad Cress Dandelion Endive Epazote Fluted pumpkin Garden Rocket Plantain Kale Lamb’s lettuce Lettuce Miner’s Lettuce Mizuna Mustard Napa cabbage New Zealand Spinach Orache Pak choy Pea leaves Poke Radicchio Radish tops Sea kale Sorrel Spinach Summer purslane Sweet potato Swiss chard Turnip greens Water spinach Winter purslane Mini red bell peppers Yarrow Vegetables eaten for their “fruits” Bell pepper Bitter melon Cucumber Eggplant Hot pepper Pumpkin Squash Sweet corn Sweet pepper Tomatillo  Tomato ‘Amazing’ cauliflower West Indian gherkin Zucchini Vegetables eaten as flowers and flower buds Artichoke Broccoli Cauliflower Squash blossoms Zucchini flowers Vegetables that form pods (mostly Legumes) American groundnut Black-eyed pea Chickpea Snow peas Common bean Fava bean Garbanzo Green bean Indian pea Lentil Lima Bean Mung bean Okra Pea Peanut Pigeon pea Runner bean Snap pea Snow pea Soybean Tepary bean Velvet bean Winged bean  Yardlong bean Garlic Bulb and “stem” vegetables Cardoon Celeriac Celery Elephant Garlic Fennel Garlic Kohlrabi Leek Nopal Onion Spring Onion/Scallion Shallot Root and tuberous vegetables Bamboo shoot Beetroot Burdock Radish ‘French Breakfast’ Canna Carrot Cassava Chinese artichoke Daikon Earthnut pea Elephant Foot yam Ginger Hamburg parsley Jerusalem artichoke Jícama Parsnip Pignut Potato Prairie turnip Radish Horseradish Rutabaga Salsify Scorzonera Sweet Potato Taro Turnip Water chestnut Yam Perennial vegetables and herbs Aloe, asparagus, artichokes, chicory, chives, Echinacea, dandelion, fennel, ginseng, Jerusalem artichokes, lavender, lemongrass, lovage, marjoram, mints, sorrel, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme, yarrow Artichokes

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Ethel M. Chocolates Announces Holiday Lights Opening in Henderson NV

Ethel M Chocolates Celebrates the Season with their 20th Annual Holiday Cactus Garden Southern Nevada’s Favorite Holiday Attraction Opens to the Public on November 13 Starting Nov. 13, locals and tourists alike can celebrate holidays at Ethel M Chocolates’ 20th Annual Holiday Cactus Garden. Located in Henderson, adjacent to Ethel M Chocolates’ factory, the three-acre Holiday Cactus Garden is free and open to the public Wednesday, November 13 through Wednesday, January 1.  Visitors can wander through the garden’s illuminated cacti pathways and enjoy the chocolate wonderland from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week. Throughout the season, local choirs will perform holiday favorites and Santa will make appearances on select evenings through December 23.            Schedule, subject to change, is as follows: Friday, November 15 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus             Saturday, November 16 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Tonality              Sunday, November 17                         5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus Thursday, November 21             6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Opportunity Village “Voices” Friday, November 22 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus Saturday, November 23 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Celebrity City Choir                         Sunday, November 24                         5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus  Friday, November 29             5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus             6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Blu7 Saturday, November 30 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Blu7             Sunday, December 1                         5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Santa Claus Wednesday, December 4                         6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Brown Junior High School Choir Thursday, December 5 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Cashman Middle School Choir Friday, December 6 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Jerome D. Mack Middle School Choir Saturday, December 7             5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus             6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Memory Lane Music Sunday, December 8 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus             Tuesday, December 10                         6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Harmon Elementary School             Wednesday, December 11                         6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Greenspun Junior High School Thursday, December 12 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  James I. Gibson Elementary School Choir Friday, December 13                         5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus                         6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  The Las Vegas Young Performers             Saturday, December 14                         5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus                         6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Girl Scouts Troop 323 Sunday, December 15 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus Monday, December 16 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus                         Tuesday, December 17 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus             Wednesday, December 18 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Las Vegas High School Madrigals             Thursday, December 19 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Silver Statesman Barber Shop Chorus             Friday, December 20 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  On With the Show             Saturday, December 21 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.  Santa Claus 6:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.  Musicology Academy “Majors”             Sunday, December 22 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Santa Claus Monday, December 23             5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Santa Claus

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Desert Green Presentation on Fruit Tree Pest Update for 2013

Fruit Tree Pest Update 2013 Notes for the PowerPoint presentation Robert Ll. Morris University of Nevada, Emeritus Desert Green is a conference held each year in Las Vegas for landscaping industry professionals. Here is a summary of my presentation on PowerPoint and my notes for my presentation. Slide 2.The UNCE Orchard was established in 1996 in North Las Vegas at UNLV’s Center for Urban Horticulture and Water Conservation. The center is located 100 yards east of the intersection of North Decatur and Horse Drive. Visiting hours are every Tuesday and Saturday morning from 8 AM until noon. Volunteers at the Orchard are welcome. The Orchard was established as a research and demonstration facility through Cooperative Extension. Slide 3. Fruit growing can be very successful in the desert because of our isolation from commercial orchards, our low humidity which helps to suppress diseases, and our high light intensities which helps to produce high levels of sugar in the fruit. Much of our plant material comes from Dave Wilson Nursery in northern California which produces high quality fruit trees for commercial orchards and nurseries. All of the fruit trees are planted by bare root, usually in late January or early February. We produce our own compost using local horse manure and green waste. The facility is a distribution center for wood mulch which is recycled urban green waste, primarily chipped trees removed from urban landscapes diverted from being buried at our local landfills. Our principal supplier of green waste is First Choice Tree Service, a Las Vegas based company. The management of the Orchard is focused on none or reduced pesticide applications, integrated pest management and ET-based irrigations. Slide 4. Whitewash reduces borer damage. We use whitewash painted to the outside of our trees to reduce sunburn damage. Sunburn damage to the trunk and limbs can attract boring insects such as the flatheaded Apple tree borer and the Pacific flatheaded borer which are problem insects in Las Vegas landscapes. By spraying the trunk and limbs with whitewash we can reduce the surface temperature of the trunk and tree limbs by five or 6°F. Whitewash is made by diluting white latex paint, or off-white latex paint, with an equal amount of water. In some cases more water can be used but the resulting whitewash should leave the trunk and limbs white in color. The most important sides of the trunk and limbs are West and South facing as well as the top sides of limbs. These areas receive the most direct and intense sunlight and usually show the most damage from boring insects. The whitewash will need to be re-sprayed or renewed every 3 to 4 years. Slide 5. Compost at planting enhances growth. This planting is nopal cactus which is used in Mexican culture as fresh vegetable, the fruit and animal fodder (feed). Once a pad is planted in good soil, harvesting of fresh vegetable from young pads can occur the following year. In three years, cactus fruits are ready to harvest. Cactus pads were planted in 2006 on the right side of the picture using compost applied to the soil after planting. The following year, 2007, pads were planted on the left side of the picture by this time the same amount of compost was mixed with the planting soil. Irrigations were every three weeks during the summer. Fertilizer applications were identical. Cactus pads that were planted with compost mixed in the soil exceeded the growth and production of cactus planted with compost applied to the surface only. In our desert soils it is very important to properly command soil at the time of planting for good growth, even of cactus. Slide 6. Staking equals faster establishment. It is important to stake newly planted trees to immobilize the roots so the tree can become established more quickly. If trees are not staked properly and the roots are not immobilized, movement of the plant due to wind can cause slower establishment. As trees begin to leaf out in the spring their canopy acts like a sail and can catch the wind causing the trunk to bend and possibly moving the root ball. Stakes should be driven into solid soil beneath the planting hole and not just the loose soil used for backfill. Trees should be tied to the stake so that the roots are immobilized but allowing the canopy and upper trunk to move. If the stake is not driven into solid soil, the root ball can move and root damage can occur with us slowing establishment. Slide 7. Wood mulch improves tree growth and health. Applying wood mulch to the soil surface has many benefits. Mulches help to keep the soil cool, moist, suppress weeds, improve soil quality, provide nutrients as it decomposes, fosters animal decomposers such as earthworms, lower soil pH and other benefits. Many plants in the landscape prefer to grow in improved soils rather than raw desert soil. Improved soils contribute to improved plant health. The best wood mulches come from a mixture of different types of trees. Bark mulch is pretty to look at but does not break down easily and contribute to the improvement of the soil and plants. Bark mulches easily blow in light winds and move in surface water. Wood mulch that has been chipped from trees does not blow easily in the wind and interlocks because of its rough surfaces. Wood mulches should be applied to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. These mulches should be kept away from the trunks of young trees, a distance of about 12 inches, until these trees are at least five years old. Wood mulches can be created from chipped landscape trees removed from local urban landscapes. When this wood has been chipped it will not contribute any disease or insect problems to landscapes where it is applied. Slide 8. Wood mulches were applied to fruit trees immediately after planting and the growth of these trees was compared to trees that did not receive any

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Desert Green Presentation on Fertilizing Woody Plants with Notes

Prescription Fertilizers for Trees and Shrubs Notes to the PowerPoint Presentation Desert Green 2013 Robert Ll. Morris, Emeritus University of Nevada [email protected] Desert Green is a conference held annually in Las Vegas for landscape professionals. This is a copy of my presentation on PowerPoint and my notes for the presentation. Slide 1. Title slide with contact information. Slide 2. Characteristics of desert soils. Desert soils contain very little organic matter and they are chemically and physically undeveloped. Because they contain so little organic matter in them, they have very little structure or are structureless. For this reason they sometimes tend to drain poorly. Their alkalinity or pH is normally high. Frequently they contain high levels of salt of all different types. If these soils have never been developed, they can change rapidly both physically and chemically when water is applied to them. Slide 3. There are 16 or 17 nutrients that are essential to plants. Several of these are needed in large amounts and we call these major elements or macronutrients. The rest of the nutrients are needed in a much smaller amounts, still just as essential. These are referred to as minor or micronutrients. All of these nutrients are essential to plant life and if any one of them is missing, the plant will die. If any of these are insufficient for the plant, it can display visual symptoms, poor health and subject to increased disease and insect problems. Bags of fertilizer traditionally contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium if they are a complete fertilizer. These three nutrients are called NPK and their relative amounts determine the fertilizer ratio. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen the plant obtains from air and water. Most desert soils contain adequate amounts of calcium, magnesium and sulfur. Of the minor elements, iron, manganese and zinc can be in short supply to plants because of the soil’s alkalinity or high pH. In most desert soils were landscape plants are being grown, nitrogen is most commonly found in the greatest need by plants. Second to nitrogen is probably available iron. Slide 4. The three numbers on the fertilizer bag give an indicator of the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in the bag, in that order. Sometimes there is a fourth number present. Although not legally required it usually represents the amount of sulfur contained in the fertilizer. The fertilizer ratio tells us the relative amounts of NPK. For instance, if the fertilizer has a ratio of NPK of 3:1:2 then fertilizers such as 12-4-8 and 21-7-14 would represent this ratio. Slide 5. Although all nutrients are needed for a plant to live, nitrogen represents the one nutrient that is universally in short supply. Nitrogen helps to drive plant growth and causes increases in size. It stimulates increased leaf and stem growth, causes a darkening of leaf color, hastens plant growth after winter dormancy and helps to increase the amount of food manufactured by the plant. If applied too late in the year, it will decrease a plant’s hardiness to freezing temperatures. Most nitrogen fertilizers are pure white in color. Most nitrogen fertilizers dissolve easily in water and moves readily through the soil with irrigation water. Slide 6. Lack of nitrogen shows up in plants as slow growth, foliage with a light green color and a lack of density in the canopy. Slide 7. In pine trees a lack of nitrogen shows up in the same way. This translates to a canopy which is not full, small candles and needles occupying the ends of branches while most of the branch is without needles. Slide 8. If too much nitrogen is applied, plants might grow rapidly with an extremely dense canopy and very dark color. When nitrogen is applied in large amounts it can cause scorching to occur on leaves and tip dieback on needles. In some cases it may cause plant death. Applying too much nitrogen is a waste of money and causes environmental problems as well. Slide 9. Adequate amounts of phosphorus is most closely related to good root growth and plant establishment, flowering and fruit production, seed and oil production. When soils are cold and wet this can lead to a lack of phosphorus taken up by plant roots. There is a quick recovery by plants as soon as the soils begin to warm. Phosphorus fertilizers are typically dark in color, usually dark gray or brown. Slide 10. Unlike nitrogen, phosphorus can stay present in the soil for long periods of time, does not dissolve easily in water and does not move through the soil unless the soil is very sandy. Phosphorus levels can build in the soil with repeated applications of high levels. In some cases phosphorus can build to toxic levels with repeated applications. Phosphorus can interfere with other nutrients, iron in particular. Over application is a waste of money and can lead to environmental pollution. Slide 11. Deficiency of phosphorus can sometimes lead to purple discoloration of the plant which disappears when phosphorus becomes available again. This is very common to many plants in cold, wet soils. Slide 12. Potassium is sometimes underappreciated in fertilizer applications. Deficiencies are hard to see since a deficient plant gives no outward symptoms. Potassium chloride, a common potassium fertilizer used in mixing fertilizers together, as a reddish-brown color. Slide 13. Over applying potassium usually will not harm anything and it does not build up in the soil like phosphorus does. Deficiencies of potassium can lead to a plant’s decreased tolerance to stresses such as heat, cold, freezing, disease and others. Slide 14. Nutrients needed in smaller amounts. Of the seven nutrients needed in much smaller amounts, iron, manganese and zinc are the ones most likely to be in short supply for plants growing in alkaline soils. Of the three, iron is by far the one found most efficient in plants. This is odd because iron is one of the most abundant minerals on earth. The key to its limited availability to plants is the pH

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Horseradish is Best Harvested in Cool Months

Q. I really enjoy the blog. Had a question for you.I planted some horseradish about a month ago. It’s growing nicely (I think — first time I’ve planted it). But I have five-six nice big leaves coming off the plant.I was wondering when I can tell it’s ready for harvest. I’ve looked online, but most of the instructions involve spring planting and a fall harvest. Since I planted in fall, per the extension service instructions, is there a way to know when they’re ready to harvest? A. Horseradish does quite nicely here for a northern climate perennial but it needs time to develop its roots where we derive the spicy condiment. After the leaves have fully established, it will take two or three months, at a minimum, for harvestable roots (rhizomes). It is in the mustard family where many members have spicy leaves and stems used in salads. This is perennial mustard so it sprouts from its underground rhizomes each year. The rhizome can be dug in the fall or spring, divided and replanted again to create new plants.  In colder parts of the United States most planting is done in the spring. But here in the semi-south (actually we are in a ‘Transition Zone’ climatically between north and south), we can plant a lot of things in the fall that are recommended for spring planting in the north. You could plant during our entire winter if you are careful and have a warm microclimate, or create one, in your garden. Our real “winter” here is the summer months which are more brutal to plants than our winter.   If your plant got two or three months of good growth before fall I would’ve told you to harvest it, divide the rhizome and let it heal and then replant. Now that we are in the second week of November I think it is a little dangerous to recommend that unless you have that warm microclimate I was talking about.  I would wait until February to mid-March to dig it, divide the rhizome if it needs dividing, let it heal for 48 hours and replant it. If the rhizome has not given you enough growth for it to be divided, then I would just replant it.  Horseradish is a tough plant. In some parts of the country it is so tough it can be invasive in the garden. Any little section of the rhizome left in the ground after digging can create new plants. So you do not need a big part of that rhizome to start a new one. There are some critical gardening tips that you need to follow when planting or replanting horseradish or any plant started from rhizomes. Make sure the knife you use when dividing the rhizome is clean and sanitized. The cuttings you prepare for replanting can be anywhere from 3 to 6 inches in length. Plant the rhizomes horizontally about 2 inches deep and about a foot apart. Don’t plant until all fresh cuts, or any damage to the rhizome, has had time to heal.  Heal the rhizomes by placing them in a warm spot (warm compared to outside, 60F or so) for 48 hours. This will allow any cuts or damage to begin to suberize or begin the healing process.  Be careful not to re-damage the rhizomes when planting. Those parts of the rhizome that recently healed can be damaged easily.  Make sure the soil has been prepared with good quality compost to a depth of 18 inches. Horseradish likes composted manure and prefers to be kept moist but not overly wet. It can survive droughty conditions but is not productive. It likes surface mulches 2 to 3 inches deep that keeps the soil moist and cool. You should dig them during the cool fall or spring months for harvesting and replanting for best flavor. Use the large central root for cooking and the smaller, side roots for planting. Horseradish root will go bad very quickly after you start shredding or grating it for cooking. The root oxidizes quickly which ruins the flavor. Use it as soon as possible after harvest. Shredded or grated horseradish root can be stored in vinegar for short periods of time as this will help keep it from oxidizing. If you are storing it in the refrigerator, keep the roots moist and in long pieces until you need it. It will probably store in the refrigerator for about 3 to 4 weeks in more humid areas such as the crisper. It can store longer than this but you would need more sophisticated storage than just a refrigerator.

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Does My Bottletree Need Pruning?

Q. First of all, thank you for your Gardening Q&A in the Review Journal.  I have found it to be most helpful in establishing my garden in Nevada.  It is a constant learning experience to find what will grow best with the considerations of water and what the rabbits won’t eat. I have questions regarding the Australian Bottle Tree in our front yard. (see attached pictures).  Should we trim and shape the tree?  It has grown to a considerable height.  The wind, appearance, and mostly health of the tree are our concerns.   Does the cracking and area of darkness on the trunk need addressing?  And should I wrap the trunk in winter?  We are at 3000 feet in Anthem and sometimes have a slightly lower winter temperature range. A. Very nice looking tree. Personally, I would not do anything to it. I know it may not look picture perfect but that is what can be charming about native trees used in our environment.  As it grows more it will naturally fill in some of the void’s. You could prune it to shape it a bit but be very careful when you do this and do not change it radically or the plant will respond the way it wants to and you may not like it.  You could identify some of the tallest limbs and bring the height of the tree back down so that it’s similar to the rest. Shaping probably shouldn’t have occurred a little bit earlier and you could have avoided some of this but you could do some light pruning on this tree if you want to. That is your call and I know that you may not be entirely pleased with its informal look. But don’t do anything dramatic to it or you could end up with some problems such as sunburn on the lower limbs and some die back.  If you are going to do it, do it this winter and do it yourself or hire someone who has a good reputation with shaping trees. This tree is a focal point on your property.

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