Xtremehorticulture

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert

Pruning Crepe Myrtle Correctly

Leave a Comment / crape myrtle, crapemyrtle, crepe myrtle, crepemyrtle /

Q. When is the right time of year to trim my crepe myrtle tree and what should be done? A. They usually do not require much pruning. I noticed from your picture that it is planted close to your house Your biggest problems would be branches growing toward the house and walking under branches that are too low.             Remove branches growing toward the house at a “crotch” (where two branches come together) and remove with a “thinning cut”. A thinning cut is the total removal of a entire branch, leaving no part of it coming from the tree.             Limbs that are too low should be removed if people need to pass under the tree. This should also be done with a thinning cut. Remove limbs high enough to allow traffic under the tree.             Aesthetically, trees look better if you restrict limb removal so the tree’s trunk is exposed for no more than one third of its height. A common problem in pruning large trees in this town is excessive limb removal. Once removed, large limbs and the aesthetics it brings, is lost forever.            Crepe myrtle tends to grow branches too close together and sometimes on top or crossing each other. Look for these common problems and remove one of the offending branches with a thinning cut, leaving no stub.             Lastly, remove any dead wood or weak growth. Using thinning cuts will help preserve this year’s flower production.

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Bee Propolis Found to Reduce Psoriasis

Leave a Comment / health bee, honey, psoriasis /

Inhibitory effect of a propolis on Di-n-Propyl Disulfide or n-Hexyl salycilate-induced skin irritation, oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in mice Inhibitory effect of a propolis on Di-n-Propyl Disulfide or n-Hexyl salycilate-induced skin irritation, oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in mice   Nada Oršolića, Jadranka Skurićb, Domagoj Đikića, Gabrijela Stanićc  Department of Animal Physiology, Faculty of Science, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia  Clinic of Anaesthesia and Intensive Care Unit, Sveti Duh General Hospital, Zagreb, Croatia  Department of Pathology, Sveti Duh General Hospital, Zagreb, Croatia Purpose Thermal imaging has been utilised, both preclinically and clinically, as a tool for assessing inflammation. Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterised by hyperkeratosis, dermal inflammatory infiltrate and increased angiogenesis. The aim of the present study was to assess the usefulness of thermography in psoriatic lesion regression after topical treatment with bee propolis, recognised as potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents. Methods We monitored the inflammation process induced by irritants such as n-Hexyl salycilate (HXS) or Di-n-Propyl Disulfide (PPD) by histopatological assessment of the skin, thermographic scanning, total number of inflammatory cells in the peritoneal cavity, differential analysis of cells in the peritoneal cavity, macrophage spreading index, haematological and biochemical parameters, frequencies of micronucleated reticulocytes, lipid peroxidation and glutathione assay in the skin. Results Topically applied ethanolic extract of propolis (EEP) with HXS or PPD reduced the lipid peroxidation in the skin and total number of inflammatory cells in the skin and peritoneal cavity, functional activity of macrophages, the number of micronuclei in mouse peripheral blood reticulocytes and enzymatic activity of ALP and AST. Conclusion These results demonstrate that topical application of EEP may improve psoriatic-like skin lesions by suppressing functional activity of macrophages and ROS production. Taken together, it is suggested that EEP can safely be utilised in the prevention of psoriasis-related inflammatory changes without causing any toxic effect. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.fitote.2013.12.007

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Puffballs and Other Mushrooms Comon to Desert Landscapes

2 Comments / decomposing, disease, mushrooms, puffballs, slime mold, soil growth /

Q. These odd things grow in my back yard from time to time and I was wondering what they are. Do you know? A. Try looking at this page on my blog.  Puffballs  I think they look like one of the puffballs that sits below ground. Fleshy, but they open up and look kind of disgusting. If this is it (hard to tell from the pic) then this should explain most of what you want to know. There is a rather complicated discussion about these living things online at several locations. Here is one by the self proclaimed “mushroom expert”. Puffballs from the expert Mushrooms growing in the wood mulch at the orchard after a rain. They are working on breaking down the wood mulch and recycling nutrients into the soil They are a mushroom and of course, like all mushrooms, feed off of dead, decaying organic matter rotting underground or on the soil surface. They are a fungal organism, a good one, most in the mushroom category called basidiomycete. They are decomposers, one of a many of different types of decomposers that aid in breaking down complicated, formerly living things, into much simpler components. They aid in enriching the soil in this process.    Underground mushroom, most likely a type of puffball called a peziza The spores or “seeds” of the mushroom begin growing with the right environment and food source. This includes enough moisture for growth and survival. In the desert the growth of these organisms frequently coincide with rain and warmer weather or some sort of irrigation presence. Germination of the spore leads to the spread of microscopic “webbing” or mycelium that acts much the same way that higher plants use roots, rhizomes and stolons. As this fungal organism matures most will develop some way to propagate itself in a way that is much more efficient over longer distances than developing the “webbing”.  Mushroom sexual stage, the one we recognize and draws our attention They develop a “sexual” stage (usually some sort of fleshy organ that can be somewhat similar in appearance to the mushrooms we buy in the store). These can appear to be like round balls growing on the surface of the soil (puffballs) or round balls below the surface. Each type has its own characteristic form or shape that helps us categorize them. Some mushrooms don’t have a form we can easily recognize but the sexual stage is what draws our attention like this slime mold that I get questions about every year. Again, usually after a rain during cooler weather. Slime mold, looks like “vomit” but can be easily destroyed with a rake and a stream of water I have had reports that dogs will eat these, usually resulting in the dog throwing up and having a sore tummy for awhile but seldom serious. Check with your veterinarian.

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Use the 1-2-3 Cut for Large Limb Removal

Leave a Comment / correctly, pruning large trees, pruning. large limbs /

Large limb removal can cause some damage to a tree if you are not careful. As you cut through a limb the weight of that limb as it begins to fall can break through the last third of the limb where it is cut and rip the bark down the side of a tree. Cut large limbs this way…. Leaving the “shoulder” on the trunk will help speed the healing process. Use the 1-2-3 cuts for removing large limbs so that the falling limb does not rip down the side of your tree. This is for limbs that are too heavy to support when you are cutting them. If they can be supported easily then just cut them off leaving the “shoulder”. The first cut is made UPWARD about 8 to 10 inches and between the 2nd and third cuts. Here we are using a cordless reciprocating saw with a pruning blade. The second cut is made DOWNWARD to the outside of the first cut. The weight of the limb falling will cause the wood to spilt before you finish the second cut. It will split down to the first cut. Here you see the wood has split from the second cut (downward and to the outside) to the first cut (upward to the inside of the second cut). The third cut is made downard and removes the stub from the tree. This wound is now left to heal without pruning paint. Make sure all tools are clean and sanitized before pruning.

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Root Fig Cuttings in February and March

Leave a Comment / cuttings, how to take cuttings, propagation, stem cuttings. when to take cuttings /

Q. I just came across one of your oldest articles about growing fig trees in Las Vegas and I would like toask you when is a good time to cut off some of the bottom branches to make a new tree. I got this tree about 2 years ago from California and has been growing fast and big in my backyard. A. Figs are pretty easy to root provided you take the cuttings at the right time. The next months of  February and March is the best time. You can root them in small pots or directly into the ground.  You can use rooting hormone if you want or not. They don’t need rooting hormone but usually get more roots if you use it. You can get Rooting Hormone at Plant World Nursery on Charleston. In fact, I just bought some because I can usually get better luck using it.    Hormex is a rooting hormone that contains IBA, NAA and hormones such as B1. I call it the “shotgun” approach. Contains IBA as the rooting compound. Not labeled for food crops. There are many ways to do it. The easiest is to stick it into the soil where you want it to root and then you don’t have to replant it. If your limbs are low enough you can just bend them into a trench in the ground, peg them so they stay put, water the trench and mulch the soil heavy. They will root directly in the soil as well still attached to the tree. As soon as you see roots forming, cut the rooted limb from the tree and transplant it. This is a grape cutting but you can see the new growth from buds on the cutting             Use amended garden soil (with compost) or potting soil. Make sure the soil drains easily. Cut last year’s growth, around pencil sized diameter, into pieces about 8-12 inches long. Stick them vertically into the soil so at least two buds are in contact with soil. Roots can come from any place on the cutting that has a bud in contact with the soil. So make sure that there are at least three buds on the cutting. Stick it vertically in the soil. You should have two buds in the soil, the rest above the soil. One bud above ground is all you will need. It will root faster if the soil is warm so find a warm location for the potted cutting like on top of the refrigerator if indoors. If the soil is warm you could expect roots in about three to four weeks. I would stick several in the same container a few inches apart in case some don’t take. As soon as you see leaves, put them outside in the sun.

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Winter is the Best Time to Shop for Compost

1 Comment / best compost, good compost, how to determine, how to find, shopping. locating /

Q. I was checking the mulch products at Whiting Bros. and they have a product called Ferta Mulch. They label it “Humic Composted Mulch”. It looks like finely chopped up  bark. They recommend it to improve the quality of your soil. They have a picture of it on their website. I can buy a ton of it for $40.00. I’m expanding my vegetable garden by approximately 20×30 so the 2 cubic ft bags at  the big box stores are out of the question.  My soil is very sandy. What do you think? A. I don’t know this product so it is hard for me to judge. Looks, smell and how it feels are not always the only things when judging composts. This is going into your garden and it will impact your garden for a long time to come.    A compost produced in Nevada I worked with years ago. It was beautiful to look at. Smelled perfect. All the reports were exceptional but it had high boron levels that were overlooked and could not be used in local markets.             If there is something in it that is detrimental, like high boron, it could impact your production for years to come. You cannot tell if high boron is present, for instance, by looking at it. You need to see reports on the product.             Any company selling compost should be conducting regular testing and provide reports available to you regarding the level of quality of their product. This should include chemical, physical and reports on biological activity. All of these are important. Homemade compost added to vegetable garden raised beds. When you cannot be sure of its source and how it is made, it is better to make it yourself.             I have reviewed regular reports from ViraGrow regarding the compost they began importing into the valley last summer. This is the old Western Organics that has moved across town now near Losee Road and Cheyenne.   I did obtain a copy of their most recent lab reports on their products and it looks good on paper. They had it analyzed by two different labs. One is the very prestigious lab in Oregon connected with the soil food web. Everything is in safe limits and plenty of nitrogen in the mix. The only drawback is that it does have some Class A biosolids which is permitted by law. There is a product without biosolids but it is very expensive compared to this one. The reports look very good. I will be conducting some other tests including some trials of their product in the coming months. Stay tuned on my blog.              I would tell you to shop around more, get an idea of which companies are testing their products on a regular basis and go from there. I don’t remember ViraGrows price offhand but give Sal Ramirez a call at 702-497-7371 and check with him. If you talk with Sal, mention you talked with me or saw this on my blog and ask him about the discounts. He can usually swing some deals. Delivery is expensive so if you can pick it up at their site you will save alot of money.

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Apply Rose Fertilizers Now

Leave a Comment / best fertilizer, fertilizing roses, how to, when /

Q. In previous years I started fertilizing our roses in March. They performed poorly last year so I want to feed them earlier. Is it ok to start now, and if so is there any special formula or nutrients required for the first feeding? A. March is okay but it would be nicer if you applied fertilizer a bit earlier, say in late January or early February. Roses perform better in soils enriched with compost, applied fertilizers high in phosphorus and iron and wood mulch several inches deep. To get award winning roses follow advice from Rosarians Rosarians who want high quality roses fertilize multiple times during the year. The first fertilizer application (light) is at bud break in the spring, a second one when the flower buds have developed and not yet opened and a final one in the fall from late August through September. A number of them like fish emulsion and Epsom salts as additional feedings through the summer months when roses go into a kind of high temperature dormancy. Use a good quality rose fertilizer such as Peters or Miracle Gro plus an application of iron chelate, preferably EDDHA, applied to the soil. If you are applying iron to the foliage you will have to wait until they fully leaf out in about March. Foliar sprays use a spreader or liquid detergent added to the spray solution at the very end of the mixing.

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Ash Trees Do Not Normally Need Applied Iron

Leave a Comment / iron chelate, iron chlorosis, which plants need iron, yellowing /

Q. Should I give my ash trees the same iron treatment as fruit trees? A. Ash trees seldom need iron so unless you are seeing some yellow leaves with green veins in the spring and summer months I would save your money. They will do better with organic wood mulches on the surface.             But they seem to do all right with rock mulch but most of the ashes would prefer the soil to have more organic material in it. Arizona ash seems to be perhaps an exception. Fertilize them once in late January or early February with a tree and shrub fertilizer. Ash tree used as a street tree in North Las Vegas

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Sago Palms Damaged in December

Leave a Comment / cold damage, freezing damage, sago palm /

Q. Do white fronds indicate my sago palm has frost damage? Can my sago be saved? Should sagos be wrapped and, if so, do I just cover them when the temperatures drop down to the 20’s but then remove the wraps once the weather warms up? A. Judging from your picture, yes, it appears to be frost damage. Not to worry. The brown fronds are permanently damaged. As long as the central crown is alive (you will know in the spring when you see new growth) then leave it.  I am guessing that it was just warm enough near the rock surface to provide heat to keep the bottom fronds from damage. The center was protected by the fronds around it. The central fronds probably got some cold and wind damage combined.             As the central fronds become older, expand and become more horizontal they will grow above the damaged area. The damaged fronds can be removed by cutting its support as close to the trunk as possible. I would not do this until you see the newer fronds coming in and getting established. Cold damage to sago palm in a previous year from another reader             Of course this leaves the older fronds at the bottom still green. If this looks too funny to you, remove them too after you see solid new growth from the center.             Normally we don’t wrap sagos. You can, but we normally don’t. It looks like yours might be in a tough spot for cold wind and this got those fronds, probably the December 5 and 6 extended cold we had. That extended cold is unusual for us. Maybe every 5 to 10 years.             The timing of the cold, the length of time below freezing combined with some cold winds probably did it. Those are hard to predict. The choices I would say might include moving it to a more protected location, living with that kind of damage every few years, wrapping it, using some plant paint to cover the damaged parts or prune them out.  If you cover it then yes, cover it when temperatures are threatening and remove the cover the next day.

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