Xtremehorticulture

Small Yellow Immature Plums Dropping Sign of No Pollination

Q. I have two Santa Rosa plum trees planted in my backyard.  The one in the lawn area has about 25% small yellow plums that fall off when I flick them or shake the branches. One is planted in a lawn area and the other in a rock landscape with a mulched area approximately 6ft. in diameter.  Both are doing well with numerous large plums growing.  The one in the lawn area has about 25% small yellow plums that fall off when I flick them or shake the branches.  The remainder of the larger plums look great. Is this tree getting too much water or is this a natural thinning process going on? A. The yellowing fruit is a sign of a lack of pollination and they fall off naturally. Usually called “June drop” in some texts. I have some good pictures I can include later of plum with poor pollination. Check back after May 1st.

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Expect Those Ugly Bugs on Pomegranate and Pistachios Now!

Q. We have a big pomegranate tree that has been doing great for a few years.  Last year we had an infestation of nasty, prehistoric looking large grey bugs on our pomegranate tree. What can I do to get rid of them? These bugs had really big thighs, and smaller red ones that look like a cross between a carpenter ant and a mosquito.  This year I noticed the eggs on many branches and cut them off.  I am sure that I missed many and am wondering what I can do to get rid of them.  We  have been keeping it organic up until this point and would love to continue that since we eat as much of the fruit as possible.  Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks so much!!  Leaffooted plant bug on pomegrante with all the younger generations (nymphs). A. You do not need to cut those branches off. You can just rub them off with a cloth and alcohol or pull leaves off if they are the undersides. This insect is called the leaffooted plant bug, a close relative to stinkbugs, squash bug and several others that are pests in home landscapes and gardens. They get their name from the leaf-like appendage on their rear legs. Picture of adult from Auburn University. They spend the winter hiding out in landscape trees until Spring. In the Spring these bugs multiply very rapidly and feed on new soft, succulent growth from leaves and expanding fruit and nuts. This insect seems to prefer fruit trees such as pomegranate, almonds and pistachios but can be found on other plants as well. They are winged so the adults can fly from plant to plant, tree to tree or landscape to landscape. Their damage to plants includes leaf damage, leaf drop, fruit damage, fruit drop and nut drop in almond and pistachio. Control of these insects is difficult and will require quite a bit of work on your part. Organic sprays would include soap sprays such as Safers, oils such as Neem and pyrethrin sprays. Organic sprays are usually not as potent as conventional commercial insecticides so must be used more often and requires closer monitoring of the plants for buildups in their populations. Spraying multiple times through the growing season will be required because of their abilities to build their populations so quickly and their ability for flight. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2013/06/pomegranate-fruit-failure-may-be-due-to.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2012/03/almond-nut-drop-and-when-to-spray.html

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Onions Producing Flowers Too Soon

Q. Hello Bob. My son got me onions that were little 3″ sprigs with roots, no bulbs, tied togather in a “bunch”, no soil. we separated them and planted a few months ago. They have grown about 7 inches or more tall and I just noticed today some of them are getting seed bulbs on their tops. But if they are large onions, why are they going to seed already? I checked the bulbs under the soil and they are maybe 2 inches around. Is that as big as they will get now that they are going to seed or should I cut the top seed bulb off? I don’t know what kind they are but do know they are not shallots or leeks. And since the bulb is so large, pretty sure they aren’t just green onions. But if they are large onions, why are they going to seed already? Please help. These are the onion flowers. Producing the flower uses enough energy from the plant. Making seed from this flower consumes even more energy. Unless you have some use for the flowers, remove them as soon as they start to develop. Twist or cut them off. A. Yes, that is the flower being produced. This can sometimes happen if there are some wildly fluctuating air temperatures or erratic irrigations. Pull or cut the flowers off unless you want to use the open flower for culinary purposes then let them open and remove them. Do not let them go to seed. Continue to fertilize the onions once a month. The safest to use is just dissolve some fertilizer that can be used for foliar applications into some warm water, dissolve it and pour it around the plants evenly. Otherwise you would do what we call “side dress” a dry fertilizer in a narrow band about two to four inches from the plants in a line parallel to the row. Do not get dry fertilizer too close to the plants or you can damage them. Do not harvest until the tops of the plants fall over. That is your clue to go ahead and harvest them over the following week or so. They will also benefit from a surface layer of mulch. This can be shredded newspaper (black and white only) around the plants.

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Shiny Leaf Sheen on Roses May Be Aphids Feeding

Q. There’s a glossy sheen on my rose leaves that’s not suppose to be there. I have the problem every year and I usually just give them a good spray with the hose and that helps but doesn’t seem to be the cure. Any suggestions that don’t involve chemicals? A. I think what you are seeing may be some residue from some feeding insects on roses. These insects excrete (release) a sugary substance from their feeding that falls on plant parts like leaves. Aphids on unopened rose buds/flowers. They feed on plant sap. They use the sugars in plants sap as a food source for energy. The remaining sugars are excreted from the aphids where they cause a shiny sheen on leaves that is sticky. This attracts ants and bees. If this is what you are seeing it should be slightly sticky and may attract ants and bees that will collect this residue for feeding. These insects pull out plant sap that contains sugars for their own feeding and there is so much of it in the plant sap that their excretion contains a lot of sugars. Insects that release this kind of “honeydew” as it is sometimes called include aphids, scale insects, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Roses aren’t the only plants these insects feed on. We will seed them on most trees, shrubs and even pines. Aphids on undersides of pepper leaves Repeat applications of soap and water sprays will usually control them until hot weather comes. High temperatures are not a good thing for insects like aphids and help to keep them under control until the cool fall weather sets in when we may see them again.

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Almond Failed to Leaf Out

Q. I planted an All-in One Almond, Saturn Peach, 5-in-1 Apricot, and most recently, a Pink Lady Apple. My almond has not leafed out yet. The tissue is still green and flexible, but there is some die back at a few tips. Could this be transplant shock of some sort? I am a little worried that I did not plant it in a good area. I realized after I prepped the hole that the roots sit right above a hard, compacted soil layer (not caliche). I widened the hole to encourage the roots to spread outward, but remember thinking that I should consider moving the location, but ran out of time. Nemaguard rootstock. Neplus Ultra in bloom at the orchard. It blooms first, followed by leaf growth. A. They are slow to start growing in the spring. Have some patience. They will produce flowers first followed by growth. If there are no flowers ready to bloom then they may skip this step and go directly into growth. Do not water more than twice a week right now but it should be a good thorough watering.  The biggest problem now is to water them too often out of panic. Make sure you planted them the same depth as they were in the container. Do not plant them too deep or they can get collar rot. When you plant them, you should have a basin around the base of the trees initially (about three feet in diameter) and use this to collect water from a hose to water them in addition to any drip emitters you are using. In the spring make sure they have a few days between watering when the soil can dry out. When watering, water all at once and then hold off until the next watering. The additional water from a hose and a basin is needed to help settle the soil around the roots and leach out any excess salts in your soil. Once you water them with a hose for a couple of weeks (perhaps four waterings) you should see a good flush of growth. You can stop hand watering with a hose at this time, get rid of the basin and revert to drip only.  Not sure of the size of the trees but give them about five to ten gallons additionally with the hose each watering day.

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New Tomato Seedling Transplants Not Growing

Q. I started seedlings in a greenhouse and transplanted them into my raised beds. but they are not growing at all. It’s been 2 weeks, and a couple have died but the rest have not even continued growing. A. Moving seedlings of hot weather plants like tomato, pepper and eggplant from a warm, still environment like a greenhouse into one with very different temperatures and wind like a garden can be quite a shock on young plants. This kind of shock will lead to short term slowing of growth and changes in plant color as well. It can also lead to disease development if you are not careful. Transplants like these tomatoes can develop problems when temperatures begin to cool. These tomatoes developed disease problems due to a combination of dirty growing conditions and hardening off for transport to the field. In this case it is thought that Fusarium may be the problem by the symptoms displayed. Sanitation and weed control would have been an important step in preventing disease problems. Plants respond to changes in the environment very differently from animals which have legs and can move to a more hospitable environment. We try to move these transplants progressively/gradually into these less hospitable environments. This is called “hardening off” a plant. This can be opening the greenhouse so that the outside environment starts mixing with the hotter greenhouse environment, moving them into a garage first with the door open for light, moving them outside into a shaded and protected environment for a couple weeks before planting them, etc. There is a transition period when the transplant will show no signs of growth while its root system begins to grow into its new environment. The larger the transplant, the greater the transplant shock or time needed for it to adjust to its new environment. However, these problems can occur if planted incorrectly: Make sure you planted transplants the same depth in the garden they were growing in the pot. The only exception would be tomatoes which you can plant deeper than that and the stem below ground will root into the garden soil IF the garden soil is adequately amended. I just replanted a pepper plant for a friend who had planted it too deep. The pepper was just sitting there, the leaves were scorching, until I replanted it to the right depth. Then the new leaves showed no signs of scorch and the plant “took off”. Do not plant peat pots directly into the garden. These peat pots or other pots for transplants that are supposed to degrade in the garden soil often times can create problems and restrict water movement in the area of the pot. Remove as much of it as you can without damaging the roots of the plant. If you do have peat pots or coir pots and planted them with the transplant, tear off any part of the pot sticking above ground so the water in the pot does not “wick up” to the outside air and dry out the root zone. Make sure the soil drains adequately and give it lots of water. Give it some protection from direct winds by putting up a small windbreak for the garden.

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Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Control Peach Twig Borer Now

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Control Peach Twig Borer Now: Peach twig borers are flying now and some are getting into early maturing peaches, nectarines and… If you don’t find the post you want, go to the bottom and click on “Older Posts” or type your question in the search engine.

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Patio Pepper Plant Needs Enough Light

Q. My patio faces mostly to the west and gets 4-5 hours of shaded/direct sunlight each day.  Will pepper plants in containers work well under these conditions?  I have read that peppers want/need up to 8 hours direct sun each day. A. Direct sunlight requirements for enough hours in a day are not like an “on” and “off” switch. They will get light from indirect sources as well so it is hard to say but you are most likely on the borderline in regards to light for good pepper production. Reflected light from walls will help. Peppers do well in containers provided they have enough light to flower and produce peppers. Mulching peppers with an organic surface mulch like these wood shavings help to shade the soil, keep it cool and preserve soil moisture. When you say this light is shaded/direct that can make a big difference. The amount of shade will have an effect as well. All I can do is to tell you to try it and find out. If they are going to be in containers and the light is coming from one direction, rotate the container so that the plant will get light from different directions. It will grow more evenly that way.  If you are on a patio and there is not enough light from the sun you might be able to supplement that light with a fluorescent light source a few inches above the plant during the morning hours when it is “shaded” or the light is coming from the wrong direction. This might be enough additional light to improve your production or improve flowering.  Our sunlight is pretty intense in the desert. To compensate for sunlight intensity we can, on some plants, give it more light at a lower intensity and achieve what we want from a plant. Just an idea for you to play with.

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Super Strong Growth on Rose Should Probably Be Removed

Q. Last fall I planted five rose bushes and they appear to being doing well. Three of the bushes have one large stem growing from the the middle of the bush.  Should I cut the large stems back…. There are multiple buds on these stems as well as singular buds on the limbs which are half the size of the big stem.  My question is, should I cut the large stems back to make the bushes more symmetric? A. Very strong growth from plants that are grafted on to rootstocks is frequently a sign that the rootstock has sent up a sucker. This type of growth must be removed or it will dominate the plant and squelch the growth from the good part of the plant. In fact, if this growth is that obvious it should be removed anyway. Trace this growth back to its origin and identify where the union is located between the rootstock and the top of the plant that we value for the flowers. The union should be a swollen part of the plant that may resemble, in looks, like a gall or tumor but it is not. If this strong growth is coming from this spot or below it, remove it as close to the parent plant as possible. The cut does not have to be sanitized but your pruning shears should be and be careful not to let your shears touch the soil before cutting. You can transmit some problems from the soil to the plant on your shears through the open wound.

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Nectarine Fruit Scarring Spray for Thrips Control

If you have a nectarine fruit tree or a relative of nectarine like Nectaplum, expect your fruit to be scarred unless you spray. Fruit scarring due to the Western flower thrips can be a big problem with its production in the Las Vegas valley and elsewhere. Nectarines and relatives of nectarines like this Nectaplum (nectarine x plum hybrid) show severe scarring of the fruit if  not on a spray schedule. The fruit was scarred early (base) but showed signs of some protection (unblemished away from the tip) with repeated organic sprays like spinosad in rotation with other sprays like oils and soaps.  Nectarines are fuzzless peaches. The fuzz on peach fruit offer natural protection from some small insects that attack the fruit like the flower thrips. Flower thrips are out very early attacking anything soft and fleshy they can get their ripping and shredding mouthparts on. Those mouthparts slash away at soft tissue like flowers, emerging leaves and the like as soon as they emerge. I have seen flower thrip damage on the ovary of a nectarine flower while the flower was still open and not yet pollinated. They are nasty. Pictures of thrips I have had reports from people this year already about rose flowers not opening or the petals looking “water-soaked” and damaged before the flower opens. That’s what flower thrips will do. That is natural for them. There are conventional insect sprays that can be used against flower thrips with some success but the sprays must be repeated. Check for sprays labeled for fruits. Botanical and organic sprays will include soap sprays, Spinosad, pyrethrins and oils. Use them in a sequential rotation (one followed by a different one, followed by a different one) when spraying, use a spreader sticker and focus the spray to cover the fruit. This is one reason why you should not skip winter applications of dormant oils on plants that get hit by flower thrips.

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