Xtremehorticulture

Pruning Boxwood and Rosemary Hedge Can Result in Disaster

Q. I have a neighbor concerned about his rosemary and boxwood hedges. He has been having trouble with the foliage browning and falling off. His landscapers recommend he cut them to the ground but he opted to cut them back by half instead and let them regrow. Can you tell me a little about these and your opinion about how to properly care for and what he should do to get them looking their best again? boxwood A. When rosemary and boxwood, or any plants for that matter, are continuously pruned with a hedge shears it causes them to get thick and bushy at the point where they are continuously sheared. This increases their density on the outer edges of the plants.             Shearing causes the interior of the hedge to become very dark. This darkness cannot support leaf or new stem growth. The older stems on the inside of the hedge drop their leaves.             All the new growth occurs only where it is sheared. Perhaps only an inch or two of the outer surface of hedged plants have leaves. The dark interior is leafless.             If we cut too far back into the hedge we expose the older wood that has no leaves. The wood is alive, but without leaves. Once this interior wood begins to receive sunlight again, new growth will usually occur on the older wood.             The rate of recovery of this older wood depends on the plant. Rosemary will come back faster than boxwood. rosemary             He will start to see growth coming from older wood exposed to sunlight as suckers. In technical terms we call this adventitious growth. Boxwood will do the same thing but it is much slower to react and fill in.             If he is patient he will see new growth slowly fill in the canopy.             If he had cut it back close to the soil surface, the same thing will occur on the Rosemary but it will be slow to grow back into a hedge. Boxwood will even be slower.             In cases like these most people do not want to look at a hedge trying to fill back in and would elect to replace these plants.             Once plants are cut with hedge shears for a couple of seasons they are very difficult to reestablish again as plants that are no longer a hedge. The interior of the hedge is just too woody.

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Lawn Care During the Heat

Watering your lawn improperly during the summer heat could contribute to disease problems in fescue. Tall fescue lawns make present fewer problems than other grasses in the hot desert climates. They are grass which is cool season, preferring cooler times of the year or cooler climates, but can normally handle the heat fairly well. As long as the heat is dry. Summer patch When we grow fescues in the humid climates and apply heat to them, they frequently succumb to diseases. As our summer monsoon season approaches, it is wise to remember that how you irrigate and manage your lawn may determine if your lawn gets diseases or not. Follow these management practices if you are not already: 1.      Irrigate during early morning hours so the lawn does not stay wet during the night. 2.      Water deeply. Tall fescue can be a deep rooted grass. Deep rooted grasses typically have higher drought resistance than shallow rooted grasses. 3.      Do not let your lawn become water stressed. Stressing lawn grasses predisposes them to diseases. 4.      Aerate lawns prior to summer heat or in the fall to encourage deeper rooting which helps drought tolerance. 5.      Applying fertilizers regularly. Lawns require fertilizers all year long including the summer months. Apply fertilizers in half rates during the heat and water them in thoroughly after the application. 6.      Apply fungicides to the lawn at the first sign of disease. Fungicides primarily protect plants from diseases. Seldom do they cure diseases once they are full-blown. 7.      In future years try organic fertilizers such as compost or vermicompost as alternatives to traditional granular fertilizers. Regular applications of compost materials tend to reduce turfgrass diseases.

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Leaf Yellowing on Locust Possible Sunburn and Borers

Q. Do you have idea why some many of the leaves on my locust tree are turning yellow? A. The most frequent problem with locust trees, Idaho or black locust, is borers in the trunks. This will cause exactly what you’re talking about, yellowing of leaves and leaf drop.             This is followed by branch dieback. Dieback of limbs may take a couple of seasons after the initial borer attack but if you are not looking for borer damage early, you will see leaf drop a couple of years into the attack.             Borers entered the trees usually where the tre is sunburned. This is normally on the west and south facing sides of the trunk or limbs. Horizontal limbs may be damaged on the upper surfaces as well.             Check the bark on the trunk or limbs see if it is loose. It may easily pull away from the trunk particularly on the south and west sides. Damage is usually on larger diameter parts of the tree.             Remove bark away from damage to areas and clean the damage down to fresh wood. You don’t need to paint it but if you want it painted, paint it.             Use a liquid insecticide soil drench to help protect the tree and give it a chance to recover during early stages of an attack.

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Kiwis Possible But Consider Winter Low Temperatures

Q. Is it possible to grow kiwi in Las Vegas? I love the flowers and big leaves on the vine and am not looking for a big harvest. A. Kiwi requires a growing season of at least 220 days which we have and that is one thing in our favor. What works against it are our low winter temperatures, strong sun, low humidity, strong winds and desert soils. immature kiwi             You can do it but you need put it in a warm winter microclimate somewhere in your landscape. Once Kiwi gets established, it can handle lower winter temperatures. Protecting it from freezing temperatures when it is young will be very important.             It does not like windy locations either. Wind deflectors or wind barriers will help as well.             Kiwi does not like our alkaline desert soils or soils with a lot of salt. Soil improvement and good drainages is a must.             Kiwi can handle hot, arid conditions up to about 115° F. without too much difficulty. This will run a bit contrary to what you might read in the literature.             So if you are going to make this work you will need a male and female plant. The variety Hayward is commonly used commercially for fruit production. It is grown in the Central Valley of California which can get pretty warm.             The male variety, Chico, is commonly used as a pollinator. Just make sure whichever Kiwi female you select a male that blooms at the same time as the female. Prepare the soil thoroughly with amendments and leach the soil with lots of water before planting to remove the salts. Make sure the soil drains easily so you might want to plant in a raised bed. Plant in a location that gets morning and early afternoon sun but is protected from late afternoon sun. Kiwi is a vine so you will need to construct some sort of trellis to support it. This is a plant that will not tolerate dry soils so make sure the soil is kept moist during the summer months. I would use a 3 to 4 inch layer of wood mulch on the surface. This will help Kiwi a lot.             Another option but not as much fun it is to grow hardy Kiwi. It will handle much lower temperatures. It has much smaller fruit but many people say the fruit is much better tasting than commercial Kiwi.

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Petunias Not Producing Flowers

Q. My husband planted some gorgeous petunias in early April.  At first they were all blooming and the planters were beautiful but now there isn’t a single flower in either planters.  We noticed a tiny black insect on the plants and there were many holes in the leaves so my husband sprayed them with Sevin thinking that would do the trick.  All we have is two planters filled with very healthy green plants but no flowers.  A. This is most likely tobacco budworm. I have attached a fact sheet on the pest. Tobacco budworm larva or worm puts holes in leaves and eats flower and leaf buds. The black drops you are seeing is probably budworm “poop” from eating the plant.             Spray the plants with a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide, Bt or Spinosad. Sevin will probably work but the problem with Sevin is that it is deadly to bees and when plants are in flower, bees are normally attracted to them. Spray plants in the evening or very early morning hours when bees are not active.

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My Tomatoes Not Developing Good Red Color

Interveinal (between the veins) chlorosis (yellowing) In desert regions, we sometimes notice that plants growing under higher temperatures develop yellowing of the leaves when exposed to intense sunlight for long periods of time. This yellowing does not appear to be associated with a lack of any particular type of nutrient such as iron or manganese, a common problem in desert soils. We don’t see the typical micronutrient deficiency symptoms such as interveinal chlorosis; yellowing between the veins while the veins remain green. I have talked about this in previous postings, probably relating to intense sunlight. Usually, growing tomatoes under light shading (no more than 30%) during times of intense sunlight helps to alleviate this problem. Retired vegetable specialist from the University of California, Hunter Johnson, explains it much better. He is talking to green house growers but the message is the same. Reduce intense sunlight on tomatoes for better color development. I borrowed this posting from a University of California publication several years ago. http://vric.ucdavis.edu/pdf/TOMATO/tomatoes_HomeGarden.pdf Solar Yellowing in Tomatoes Yellow discoloration invariably occurs beginning in the late spring months under greenhouse conditions, or from that period on through the summer in the open field in inland areas where daytime temperatures regularly exceed 85OF. An accurate term for this condition is “solar yellowing” because the source of the problem is the sun. It isn’t only the heat of the sun or the temperature increase in the Tomatoes not developing good red color in heat fruit that creates the problem, but also high light intensity. This was shown by Dr. Werner Upton, who coined the term “solar yellowing” in research he conducted on the subject in 1970. His treatments involved shading or painting the fruit either black or white. Black-painted fruit were higher in temperature than exposed fruit, but discoloration was highest in the exposed fruit. His conclusion was that short-wave radiation was largely responsible for defective coloration. The reason for the yellow or yellow-orange color, rather than the normal red, is that the red pigment (lycopene) fails to form above 30OC (86OF). This phenomenon was first described by researchers in 1952 and was later confirmed by others. When lycopene fails to form, only carotenes remain for fruit color. In the field, some red color forms when day temperatures rise above 85OF because of fluctuation in noninhibiting temperatures during other parts of the day or night. An orangey-red color results.  In production areas where temperatures do not exceed 85OF, much higher red color develops. For good uniform red color to develop, high temperatures should be avoided and fruit should be protected from short-wave radiation in high light intensity areas.  Dr. Upton showed that sprays of non-phytotoxic whitewash will help. In greenhouses, growers who intend to mature fruit in May and June should begin to alter their pruning practices in March by allowing two leaves to develop on axillary branches instead of the standard practice of removing these branches. The author is Hunter Johnson, Jr., retired University of California Cooperative Extension Vegetable Specialist, Riverside Campus.

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Bees Drowning in Swimming Pool

Honeybee visiting peach flower Q. My daughter has an above-ground swimming pool and she is encountering a lot of bees floating on her pool water. First she is not happy to see them die. Second she is not happy for them to be there as her son and daughters swim in the pool and they don’t want to get stung. Can you make any suggestions? A. The bees are looking for water to take back to their hives. When it is hot out, bees are continuously hauling water back to the hives to keep it cool. And consequently they drown because the pool is not shallow.             She can try putting out a shallow depression in the landscape away from the pool and see if they will land there instead. They would prefer to haul water from a place that has a very shallow amount of water like the edge of a pond or stream.             This way they can land on solid ground, take water and fly away. Once they find it, they may make lots of trips to it for water and be regular visitors. There is a hive somewhere fairly close by.

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Summer Monsoon: High Temps + Increased Humidity = More Disease

This is the time of year, around mid summer, when we can expect an increase of the moisture content in our weather. Arizona has it worse. They, and New Mexico, frequently call it their “summer monsoon”. It accounts for 35 to 45% of the state’s annual precipitation. In Mexico, it accounts for 60% of the annual rainfall in Sonora. Cloud development typical of summer monsoons. The summer monsoon is not well understood but we know that it moves inward from the Pacific Ocean because the land heats up faster than the Pacific Ocean. The monsoons mostly stop around the Phoenix area but we do see an increase in clouds building from the South and, more importantly, an increase in our relative humidity. So why is this important? Because it causes an alteration in some plants susceptibility to diseases. This all goes back to the plant disease triangle. The plant disease triangle was probably one of the most important concepts I was ever taught in plant pathology while in school. The disease triangle relates to a three-legged stool; each leg coinciding with an increased potential for disease development. These three factors are: the predisposition of the plant to disease, the presence of the disease organism, and an environment that is conducive to the development of disease. When the summer monsoons come into play, all three of these legs of the stool become activated. Let me explain. Plant disease triangle Predisposition of the plant. Healthy plants normally ward, or can fend off, diseases. Just like us, the healthier we are, the better able we are to withstand diseases. The plants more susceptible to diseases are those that are weakened, in poor health, old, malnourished or in some way compromised. This is why I encourage you to feed your plants on a regular basis. This helps to maintain their health. As summer temperatures increase, plants have a reduced capacity to withstand diseases. The summer monsoon comes at a time when plants have been hit hard with high temperatures and are under a lot of stress. Presence of the disease organism. We can make some assumptions. The assumption I like to make is that most common disease organisms are always present in our garden or landscape. Two factors that contribute to the possibility that a disease may become a problem are the amount of inoculum (that is the total amount of bad disease organism) present and the virulence (the strength) of that organism. If the disease is highly virulent, it will not require a lot of that organism to be present for the disease to occur. If there is a lot of inoculum present, the potential for disease is high. Environment. The third factor is the physical environment surrounding the plant and the disease organism. Fungal diseases, our most common plant diseases, require a wet environment to prosper. Bacterial and viral diseases, less so. When the humidity increases, the moisture in the environment increases, and the propensity for diseases to occur increase. If the other two factors in this three-legged stool are leaning towards a disease problem, higher humidity may send it over the top. The adage in plant disease control is to manage plants and their environment to minimize disease problems by considering all three legs of the stool. Eliminate one of the legs and the disease can be managed or controlled. These summer monsoons come at a time when plants are under a lot of stress due to high temperatures, high light intensities, poor soils, poor irrigation practices and a host of other things. The disease organism is present. Count on it. They are there and ready for any opportunity that presents itself. Now, the summer monsoons come, increasing humidity. Our biggest disease problems will come from fungal diseases that prefer higher humidity, higher temperatures and plants that are susceptible.

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Bug Sprays Commonly Kill Bark Scorpions

Q. I never saw a scorpion in 24 years here and now I have them on my property. This is upsetting to me since I only had to deal with Crickets and an occasional black roach. I did not want to get a pro exterminator but did not have a choice after finding 2 in my house. Can you tell me what attracts them and how they could have become a problem in this area? Source for picture no longer available but not mine. A. I hesitate a little bit when answering questions like this because it’s a little bit out of my area. But yes, I have had a few people tell me they have had problems with scorpions in their homes and one boy I know of was stung. Stings are painful but rarely life threatening. There is quite a bit of information out there on scorpions on the Internet and it is probably easier for me to just give you some links so you can read up on this critter. I believe they enter homes mostly for food. They need very little water unlike roaches. And also unlike roaches they don’t seem to congregate near sources of water such as laundry rooms, kitchen cupboards, bathrooms.  I have heard rumors from people that they are hard to kill with pesticides. I have not found that to be true at all. I have found them to be very susceptible to many common bug sprays.   Insecticides that are used commercially for controlling scorpions are usually the synthetic pyrethroids. Fortunately these insecticides are also used to control roaches, crickets and spiders; most of their food sources in the home. Most of the synthetic pyrethroids used for insect control will have the active ingredient listed on the label ending with the suffix -thrin. If you are looking for a chemical to use then I would select a pesticide that is labeled to use inside the home and has as an active ingredient a chemical ending in –thrin. Examples are Resmethrin, Permethrin, etc. I recently saw a pesticide on a shelf in Ace Hardware actually labeled for scorpion control. It contained a -thrin. Follow the label directions precisely. A chemical barrier can be sprayed around the outside of the home at soil level and 12 inches above it all around the foundation. Inside the home, please read and follow the label.  Scorpions usually come out at night. They can be detected with a black light because they fluoresce or shine when using a black light and shining it on them. They can climb walls, rough vertical surfaces and trunks of trees. They come on at night looking for food and usually hide during the day. Outside they can be in woodpiles, rock piles, anywhere they can find food. Frequently they are on the underside of things since they seem to like to be upside down. Probably a better position to be in when lying in wait for their prey. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arizona_bark_scorpion http://www.scorpionworlds.com/arizona-bark-scorpion/ http://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm266515.htm

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