Xtremehorticulture

Pollinator For Pink Lady Apple?

Q. I purchased a Pink Lady apple tree in the fall. It is doing very well. What besides a crabapple tree is a suitable pollinator for this tree? I have been getting many differing opinions on this. Pink Lady apple harvested in late November. Ooops, the spur broke off. Don’t do that! A. You don’t need a pollinator for that tree. It is self-pollinating in our climate. For the best information on which trees need pollinators you should visit the Dave Wilson nursery website. http://www.davewilson.com/product-information/product/pink-lady-apple

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No Fruit on Dwarf Orange

Q. I have a dwarf orange tree planted a little over a year ago. There have been no oranges on the tree. I have fertilized and I think I’ve been watering it correctly. The tree appears to be healthy, just no fruit. Any suggestions? A. Dwarf orange is not much help to me. The subject of oranges is huge. I need to know what type of orange it is, whether it has produced flowers or not or if the flowers formed but failed to produce fruit. Varieties vary from early ripening – about 8 months from bloom – to late – up to 16 months from bloom. There are three main groups: The normal fruited, without navels and with light orange colored flesh; the navel oranges, with a distinct navel development at the end; and blood oranges, with red flesh and juice. There are about 73 varieties but US production focuses on Valencia, Washington Navel, Hamlin, Parson Brown, Pineapple and Temple.  For home gardening there are many more than these six available from nurseries. Here is a publication from Arizona on citrus varieties. extension.arizona.edu/pubs/az1001.pdf

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Best Time for Pruning Oleander

Q. I contacted the Extension Service about my oleander. They sent me a great publication about it but my main concern is pruning. I purchased the dwarf plants two years ago in five gallon containers. They are doing fine but are about four feet high. It is my understanding the plants can be pruned. I need to know the best time to do so and how far down to go without harming them. A. Pruning oleander is very simple, much simpler than many other plants. You can prune them any time of the year but the best time is in the winter. The incorrect way is to use hedge shears if you want flowers consistently. Oleander suckering from base after pruning. You can prune them with hand pruners, preferably a type called a bypass shears. Corona makes good ones that are not very expensive. Count the number of main stems coming from the base of the plant. Identify the oldest (largest in diameter) stems. Remove one third of these larger stems leaving one or two inches above ground. You are done! You will do this about every two or three years. No hedge shears. It takes about ten minutes and no mess to clean up! If there are some unusually long ones remove them from the base as well. Removing larger stems will force new growth like this from the base. Having said this, the absolute best time to do this is February and March but you can do it any time!

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Sap Coming From Peach Trunk to Top of Limbs

Q. Our peach tree has sap coming out from the ground level to the top of one of the limbs. Not sure if too much water, not enough water, too many bugs or what. A. This is the time of year we start noticing borer damage in peach trees. Sap comes out from the limbs and possibly all along the trunk. Branch dieback due to peach borer damage. A clear indicator of borer damage will be that the bark around the sappy areas will peel off, leaving bare wood under it with clear feeding damage (looks like someone took a miniature sander to the wood with no clear pattern) and if you pull enough bark away you will see flattened, oval exit holes from the adult beetles. Bark peeling away from dying branch due to borers. You may even see some sawdust under the bark in these “sanded” areas from their feeding. Remove all loose bark all the way into good wood. You may even find a flattened, ugly larva of a borer just under the bark still feeding. Keep it for a pet if you want to. Borer in removed dead branch If damage is more than 50% around the limb, cut it off. Do not paint with black tree wound paint. Paint the trunk and remaining limbs with diluted white latex paint (50/50 with water) on the upper surface of all branches down to one inch in diameter and the trunk. Borers like limbs and trunks exposed to the hot and intense sunlight. White paint keeps limbs and trunks several degrees cooler than brown limbs and trunks and helps to reduce damage to these parts by intense sunlight. 

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Ocotillo Two Years and Not Green

Q. I bought an ocotillo 2 years ago and it has yet to turn green and become alive. Should I get a new one? I do not know how to move forward on this. Not readers ocotillo but still an ocotillo during winter. A. It may have been dead when you bought it or it may have died after you planted it. Yes, replace it. Two years is long enough to wait. I provided some documents to help get you off to a better start with your ocotillo. http://www.dbg.org/system/files/55/original/Planting%20Ocotillo.pdf?1279065377 http://www.tucsoncactus.org/pdf_files/TCSS_Ocotillo_Planting.pdf http://www.starnursery.com/media/SN_Tips/SN415_Ocotillo-Care.pdf

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African Sumac Can Be A Messy Tree

Q. I have two African sumac tree and the past few weeks many of the leaves are dropping a lot each day and they are dry or yellow in color.  I am wondering if it is not getting enough water or if with the heat that may be its problem.  African sumac blooms during the winter and the flowers as well as dropping leaves can be very messy. A. First of all, African sumac is a messy tree. It can drop a lot of litter on the ground. The female trees can drop a lot of seed. Sparrows and mockingbirds love the fruit and will spread everywhere with sprouts given to neighbors.             If the tree is in rock landscape and on drip irrigation it might be a lack of water. You do not want to water daily but every 2 to 3 days in this heat at the most. Water with large volumes of water, less often.             If you do not think you are watering too often then I would run the hose out to it and let it get an extra 20 to 30 gallons under the canopy once a week now if it is an older, established tree.          It is also possible it could be aphids feeding on the leaves. Check them to see if leaves are sticky or shiny with honeydew from aphids. If so, spray with soap and water a few times a few days apart.             The soil will dry out faster if it is covered in rock mulch rather than wood mulch. Bare soil dries out the fastest. This tree perform better in desert landscapes if it has irrigated plants under its canopy.

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Zucchini Not Producing

Q. My friends are giving me grief because I can’t grow zucchini or other squashes. I get female flowers with the squash below the flower. I have male flowers, too. We seem to have insects around enough to pollinate other plants. But this fruit withers at about large grape size. What can I do to become one of those zucchini and squash growers who have so much they can’t even give it all away? A. It is possible that they are not open at the same time and having more than one plant should solve that problem. During high temperatures, pollination can be a problem because of sterile pollen. Zucchini fruits yellowing and falling off             If the plant has a very tight canopy and bees have a hard time getting to the flowers then this could prevent good fruiting. It is also possible that you have a variety that is not a good performer in our climate. Male flowers have slender stalk supporting the flower while females stalk, which become fruit,, are much thicker.             You may have to act like a bee do some hand pollination. You might try hand pollinating. This requires a soft paint brush and transferring the pollen from the male flower to the female flower. This is a pretty good video on hand pollinating zucchini. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCVIu82eXGY

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Container Gardenia Leaves Yellowing and Falling

Q. I have a gardenia that is approximately four years old.  It blooms yearly and was doing great.  All of a sudden, literally overnight, the leaves turned yellow and are falling off. What has happened?  I water it daily, it is on the patio, outside where it has always been, in the shade. A. I think your gardenia developed rot. The symptoms of root rot our yellowing leaves and leaf drop. Frequently the plant dies a relatively slow death unless it’s in the heat, then it could be rapid.             Container plants need to be repotted regularly. When we grow in containers, the soil organic matter (this is the component of the soil that helps keeps soil loose and gives good air exchange to the roots) begins disappearing at a steady rate. In a couple of years it will be in critical short supply.             As this soil organic matter disappears, the open spaces in the soils that help with drainage and air exchange, diminishes. At the very beginning, a good container soil may contain as much as 50% of its volume as pore space.             In about three years this pore space may drop to only 20 or 15%. Basically the soil collapses, losing its pore space. This might be okay for a palm growing in a container but gardenias need soils with lots of pore spaces.             The soil becomes more dense, water drains through it more slowly, the soil stays wet longer, salts begin to accumulate and the roots begin to suffocate.             Soil diseases attack the weakened roots, roots begin to die, leaves begin to yellow and drop from plant.             Soils in containers need to be renewed every two to three years depending on the type of plant. Since gardenia is very susceptible to rots and grows much better in aerated soils, I would repot it no longer than every other year.             If the Gardenia is not too far along in leaf yellowing and leaf drop, you might be able to save it. Go to your favorite nursery or garden center and purchase a good quality container soil, enough to refill the container. When you are there, purchase a chemical fungicide called Subdue. Subdue fungicide does a good job in controlling several of the root rot disease organisms. Applying a fungicide alone will not solve the problem so you must repot the plant as well. The plant can be put back in the same container if it is sanitized on the inside or use a different clean container.             Remove the plant from the container during the cool temperatures of the morning and out of direct sunlight. Once the plant has been removed from the container, you must repot it quickly because the tiny feeder roots are continually dying after removal from the soil and drying out. Place the plant on a clean surface and gently wash the soil away from the plant roots.             Thoroughly clean the container and sanitize the inside of it with a 200 ppm solution of bleach and water. This would be about on tablespoon of bleach in one gallon of water. Rinse the container and wipe out the excess with a clean rag or towel. Let it air dry in the sun for a few minutes to let the chlorine dissipate. Or use a clean, fresh container.             Once you have removed as much soil from the roots as possible with water, you can repot the plant and use tap water to resettle the soil around the roots and remove air pockets. You will apply the subdue fungicide according to the label and water it into the soil of the repotted plant as a soil drench. Follow label directions. Fertilize the plant as you would normally and watch for new growth to come from leafless stems that are still alive. Once a year or once every two years remove about one third of the soil from the container and add new container soil.

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How To Prevent Peach Fruit from Splitting

Q. My peach tree sometimes produces peaches that split up the sides. What am I doing wrong? A. I had to go looking. Here is what i found from Washington State University. It is a bit technical so I inserted some explanations about what they are talking about. Peach splitting can show up as split-pits and as split fruit with the pits still intact. Split-pits are the more common problem but our understanding of this phenomenon is still limited. We know that split-pits can occur about 20 days after bloom or during pit hardening. Early season peach varieties, such as Early Haven, usually show the problem more often but later season varieties can also have split-pits. Rainfall is not responsible but may aggravate split-pits. There’s been no consistent association between micro nutrient status deficiency or excess, in trees and split-pits. It appears that anything that upsets the carbohydrate balance between leaves and roots can increase the split-pit problem. This includes winter injury, girdling, high heat, heavy watering, excess vigor, or trunk damage. The relationship between growth rate and split-pits is very close. Much of the split-pit tendency is a cultivar of variety characteristic that is genetic. Gardener control, other than choosing varieties that have less tendency towards split-pits is, limited. Controlling tree vigor may reduce the problem. Don’t excessively thin or over-fertilize. Unfortunately, these practices will probably give you smaller fruit size. The other splitting problem in peach is in the fruit itself, called soft suture. It can sometimes be traced back to a fluoride toxicity reaction or a response to one of the growth regulator chemicals like 2,4-d. We suspect soil moisture may be a factor. Some varieties tend to be more prone to soft suture symptoms. Symptoms are similar but the fluoride toxicity symptom shows red pigmentation under the skin, the growth regulator response does not. In addition, the fluoride related response usually is on the lower 1/3 of the suture, near the calyx end. In the case of fluoride toxicity, spray applications of calcium chloride every ten days beginning about two weeks after pit hardening have been effective.

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Cutting Back a Recently Planted Peach Tree or Not?

Q. Last week I purchased a semi-dwarf Elberta peach from a local nursery to replace the nectarine I took out. Tree is approximately 65″ tall. When I mentioned to one of the salesmen that I was planning to prune it back to the 4/5 branches that begin about 20″ from the ground, up to about 26″, he was pretty adament that this was not as good idea as the hormones that promote root growth are located at the tips of branches that I would prune off? I remember that when I purchased my last tree from the orchard the gardener there recommended that I cut it back to about 24″ tall. So, the only thing I can think of for conflicting instructions is the nursery tree had leafed out and the Orchard one was dormant? Anyway, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you recommend pruning, should I do it now or wait until the tree goes dormant? A. You can do that to this tree but I would wait until winter. Taking the center out of a Peach tree and leaving the lower scaffold limbs is quite common. This is how we train a fruit tree into open center form. One of the major dangers that can occur when we take the center out of a tree, is sunburn to the top surface of the remaining limbs. We can discourage sunburn to these limbs by leaving some smaller branches above this area that might produce some shade to the upper surface of the lower limbs. The other thing we can do is to whitewash the upper surfaces of the remaining limbs with dilute white latex paint. White latex paint is diluted with water in a 1:1 mixture. You can use more water than this as long as the remaining wood is white. This lighter color will help to reduce sunburn to the limbs. Apply it with a brush. Taking the center out of peach tree to make an open center form. Most of the nursery workers do not know how to prune fruit trees. In fact, few do. Looking at your pictures you could take the top out this next winter. There is a precaution on peaches I should mention. If the diameter of the wood you are cutting on the main trunk is more than about ¾ inch with no side branches below the cut you may have trouble getting more branches to “sprout” from below the cut. But if you cut the trunk out to just above at least a couple of good side branches you will have no trouble. Don’t forget to paint the tree with diluted white latex paint to prevent sunburn after you make your cuts this next winter. Another thing. You are going to have problems with that Peach tree if it remains in rock mulch in our desert soils.

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