Xtremehorticulture

Holes in Trees

Q. I have three pecan trees in the Moapa Valley area that has been attacked by something for the last six years after they were planted. It starts with small circular holes, 2 or 3 millimeters in diameter, in the bark.  This holes are often in a line extending horizontally across the trunk or limb.  Then the bark appears to be shredded in concentrated areas.  As the summer season progresses, the tree leaves slowly and progressively turn prematurely brown.  I never see any particular pest on the tree, just evidence of their presence by the damage they inflict. This same problem seems to affect a plum and nectarine tree which are now dead. One of the trees was affected so badly that I cut the tree off just above the graft about 4 years ago.  It has regrown some limbs and has not yet shown evidence of new pest damage.  The other two pecan trees still show evidence of continuing damage.  I used the Bayer borer worm treatment two years in a row a few years back.  That seemed to help a little, but again, over time, the damage has been recurring. I think I am going to loose another tree soon and all of them eventually if I don’t figure out how to fix the problem.  I’d be willing to try replanting all new trees if I could have some confidence that the problem would not reoccur.  Any information or advice you can offer will be appreciated.  First picture showing bird damage A. The first picture is for sure damage from birds in the woodpecker family, probably sapsuckers. The second picture is most likely the same but the damage is spaced so closely together it is more difficult to recognize. The third picture is some sort of “mechanical” damage, the same type of damage as the first two and I can only guess that it is from the same thing using the KISS principle. Second picture showing bird damage very close together and causing a lot of damage Most of these birds are migratory so you see their damage in the spring usually but it is also possible it is in the fall. I am no ornithologist but I understand their are some birds in this family that live in this area permanently. I only see this damage during migrations but maybe in your location it might be different. Third picture doesn’t show the bird damage as well but I’m guessing this is what is causing this kind of damage I have had damage to fruit trees for dozens of years and the trees survive and don’t seem to be bothered this much at all. I think the reason for that is they grow so rapidly that they recover from this damage quickly. Williamson’s sapsucker might be causing this kind of damage. I no longer have the photo credits for this picture but I took it from the web several years ago. From the looks of the trees and the environment I can see in the pictures I think your trees are under a lot of stress. This may prevent them from recovering quickly from this damage. It is very important that trees that are damaged get enough water, fertilizer and soil enhancement so recovery is quick and not lingering into succeeding years. They must recover completely in one season of growth. They will do that if they are pushed to do so after the damage has been done. Sapsucker damage to an Apple at the University Orchard Each of these holes put into the tree from birds by their feeding must totally heal before the next season of damage. I don’t think yours are doing that. Cover the soil beneath the trees with wood chips at least four inches deep and out to a distance equal to the ends of the branches. Water and apply fertilizer sufficiently after you see the damage to push the tree’s recovery as quickly as possible. If you can use a bubbler and basin instead of drip (if you are using drip irrigation) this might help. This will flood the area under the trees and deliver enough water for a quick recovery. Fertilize the trees in late January or February to get the trees into rapid growth before the damage occurs. Bubbler and basin around a fruit tree with the basin covered in wood mulch You can also try to put wire mesh around the tree or damaged areas of the trunk but the birds usually then go to limbs. But if you lose a limb at least you don’t lose the tree.

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Bees and the Care of Fairy Duster Plant

Q. Please help me identify the bees on this fairy duster shrub growing on the Eastern side of a Mesquite home. Additionally, I’d appreciate some pointers on how to help this plant become a healthier better looking shrub. Very little has been done because the bees are usually on it. The bees and I coexist with a healthy respect for each other. I’m hoping they are some type of honey bee. Pictures of plant sent to me A. Bees can be difficult to identify through just pictures and I am not an entomologist so it makes the problem worse. Size is probably the first clue to the type of bee. Next is the coloration. When we get into the general size of the honeybee it can get a little difficult whether these bees have been Africanized or if they are leaf cutter bees. Basil and leaf cutter bee The other category is whether they are social bees or solitary bees like the leaf cutter. Nearly all of the bees are beneficial whether they make honey or not just because they are our best pollinators. Some bees can be a problem such as the Africanized honey bee or leaf cutter bees. Bee swarm in a fruit tree If honeybees have been Africanized they can be aggressive and dangerous. This is the only be that we would consider to be truly dangerous. Other bees of this size like the leaf cutter bee can be a nuisance because it cut circles out of the leaves of some plants such as basil, roses, lilac, bougainvillea and others. Normally these leaves are soft and easily cut by the leaf cutter bee so the female can use it for nesting. Solitary bees normally do not make honey that we can collect. Social bees are the honey makers. Regardless, all of the bees you are seeing there are friendly and beneficial. Pollinating peach flower Fairy duster plant is native to North and Central America growing in warm desert climates and soils. This tells you a little bit about how to manage it. It will tolerate desert soils as well as infrequent watering. At planting time I would amend the soil with about 25 to 50% compost and make the whole about three times wider than its container. I realize yours is already in the ground so watering and fertilizer applications are important to mention. Do not water this plant too often. That will be the biggest mistake people make.Fertilize it lightly once in the very early spring around late January or February with a rose type fertilizer. The plant can get 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall in soils that have been amended with compost. As long as it’s in a sunny location you should see a profusion of blooms in the spring and summer months that attract bees, hummingbirds and night flying moths. Quail like to feed on seed from the seed pods. Rabbits like to browse on new growth. You can clean up the plant in the early spring by removing dead leaves and stems. You will encourage more blooms if the plant is in a sunny location and flowers are removed before they begin to form seedpods.

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Chinese Pistache Growing Poorly

Q. A nursery planted my tree in spring (May I think) it has sap running in several places from the trunk. Also the leaves seem to have some disease, but the new leaves at the base of the trunk look great.  I have looked on the internet but could find an answer.  It looks like it’s dying.  What is your prognoses – see attached photos taken today. Trunk of this Chinese Pistache A. I looked at the pictures of the pistache tree that you sent to me. The pictures make me think it is water related. Your Chinese pistache is probably a grafted tree. A graft is used to attach two plants together; one which will become the roots and the other becomes the trunk and top of the tree. If you look at the trunk of the tree a few inches above the soil you should see a slight “crook” or bend in an otherwise straight trunk. This bend is where the graft took place which joined the two young trees together. Picture of leaf sent in This is important to find. If the new leaves you mentioned at the base of the trunk are coming from below this crook or bend then the tree is “suckering” from the plant grafted for the roots. This is a very good indication that the top part of the tree has been damaged or is under a lot of stress. Normally, this is not a good sign and you don’t want this type of growth to continue. You would remove this growth from the trunk and is close to the trunk as possible. If you leave any short stubs after you remove these suckers then growth from this area is likely to return. Base of trunk showing new growth What caused this? This is where I go out on a limb, no pun intended. Nine times out of 10 this is related to some sort of watering issue. I am going to guess and say it’s not getting enough water. If this was a 24 inch boxed tree you should be delivering about 15 to 20 gallons of water each time you water. I am guessing this tree is on drip irrigation. I can’t tell you how many minutes this would be because that will depend on how much water these emitters are delivering. A tree of this size should have a minimum of four drip emitters spaced in a square pattern about 18 inches from the trunk. If I am correct, you should be able to correct this problem by building a basin or bowl around the trunk about 3 feet in diameter and 6 to 8 inches tall. You would use a hose and fill this basin with water completely once a month during the winter months. When things begin to warm up in about March you might do this every two weeks. Once you hit may you should be doing it weekly. Chinese pistache shown in its location Another possibility could be that it is receiving too much water. If you are watering daily and delivering a lot of water through those drip emitters than it is possible the roots are suffocating because of too much water. I tend to believe it’s not enough judging from how the tree reacted. What to do? Build that basin around the tree that I mentioned earlier. Fill this basin with water from a hose twice. Remove the suckers from the tree as I described. If you think there are not enough emitters, add emitters around the tree or find some way to deliver a higher volume of water if you are only watering a few minutes. You won’t see much of a reaction from this tree to these improvements until next spring and summer. Remember, do not water daily. When you do water, give it a lot of water and wait a few days between irrigations during the summer months.

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