Q. I have daffodils and Dutch iris bulbs shooting out new flowers this last November. Each year they produce leaves in the fall but never flowers. Are they confusing this time of year with spring?  What should I do? A. This type of oddity, flowering at the wrong time of year, happens with some plants. Sometimes we see it in fruit trees like apples or pears and even grapes. Plants are more in tune to their environment than animals and these environmental clues can sometimes mislead them.             Plants that originate from temperate climates, climates with seasons, use two major environmental “triggers” to gauge when to flower and produce fruit. These two environmental triggers are cool or cold temperatures and unbroken darkness for long periods. This works great in the spring.             A primary mission of plants is to survive and produce offspring. Producing flowers will produce fruit that produces seed. Spring flowering, not fall flowering, is extremely important for temperate plants. Flowering in the fall does not give most plants enough time to produce the seed needed for reproduction.             If one or both triggers are activated at the wrong time the plant may be “tricked” into thinking it’s spring. Every fall the length of nighttime mimics the length of nighttime in the spring. That’s one trigger. If there are unusually cold temperatures in the fall, then both triggers could activate flowering. What to do?  Remove the flowers when you see them. Otherwise, leave the plant alone. Flowering in the fall is not a big deal but fall fruit and seed production is a huge drain on plant food supplies needed for next spring.

Q. What are the proper measures when transplanting a mature 10-15 foot (3.3-5 m) tall pomegranate tree. Once transplanted, what to do that betters the chances of a successful transplant? A. In a few words, take as much of the roots with it when you move it. That is tough to do by hand and rough on the tree regardless. Use a backhoe or, better yet, a hydraulically operated tree spade. There are a couple of arborists in Las Vegas who own tree spades who could do it for you. A tree spade is by far the best way to move a larger tree.  See a tree spade in action             Digging it up and moving it by hand is difficult unless it has been on drip irrigation or prepared for this move one year in advance. A successful transplanting moves as much of the roots as possible to its new location and at the right time of year.             Now, December through February, is the right time of year. Drip irrigation keeps tree roots closer to the trunk. With rainfall, or a landscape irrigated by sprinklers, tree roots spread wherever there is water up to twice the height of the tree.             This means a 10-foot tree might, ideally, spread its roots 20 feet from its trunk. Unfortunately, the most important roots to transplant with the tree are roots growing at the outer half of its root spread. That’s not possible.             Older trees on drip irrigation, or irrigated with a depression around the trunk, have a better chance of survival because more of their roots are close to the trunk. You may not have many options open to you so let’s cover what to do, worst-case scenario. Reducing canopy size for transplanting. Taken from LE Cook at http://www.lecooke.com/cms/tree-care/care-of-bareroot/358.html             First, cut the limbs back so they are three or four feet tall.  You must remove at least 1/3 of the tree’s canopy when transplanting. Next, dig a vertical trench around the entire tree deep enough to sever all the roots in the top 18 to 24 inches. This trench should be at least 2 feet from the trunk.             Dig the new hole for the tree. Dig it twice the width of the trenched hole and about 6 inches deeper. Mix compost with soil taken from the new hole. Use this soil mix when replanting the tree. I am not a huge fan of the product but add Super Thrive to the backfill. It’s relatively cheap insurance.             Undercut the trenched tree so it moves freely back and forth. It would be perfect if all the soil attached to the roots was moved with the tree. But most of the soil will fall free from the roots in when it is moved. Not perfect but it’s okay.             Lift the tree from the hole and cut any remaining roots with pruning shears (best) or very sharp shovel. If most of the soil fell from the roots during the transplant, get the tree into its new hole a watered as quickly as possible. Minutes of delay could prove important in the speed of its recovery.         Begin backfilling around the roots with the soil mix you created and water from a hose at the same time. The soil should be a slurry and fill all of voids around the roots. Filling these soil voids is important.             Equally important is to stake this tree so it’s roots are immobilized for one growing season. Construct a basin around the tree at least four inches deep and on top of the new hole. Fill this basin after transplanting three times over a period of 1 to 3 days. A good job results in a transplant planted solidly in the ground.             Water once a week, filling the basin, for the first month. After the first month, water it as you would normally or as needed.