Xtremehorticulture

Mexican Fan Palm Removal

Q. We have decided to have our Mexican fan palms removed. Do we need to have all the roots removed or just cut the palms down to the ground, especially the one next to the pool? One of the “fan palms”, most likely favoring California fan palm (because it is “fat” at the base) (W. filifera). Palm trees in general, Washingtonia types in particular, interbreed easily and so the genus can easily be genetically mingled.  A. If your palm trees do not sucker from the base (date palm, Mediterranean fan palm do produce suckers from the base) then as soon as the top is cut off, the palm will die. Both Mexican and California fan palms have one central bud at the top which is the only place where new growth can occur. Once cut and they die, they will slowly decay if left behind.             The problem you will have when you leave any kind of stump is the palm trees very slow decay rate. Palm debris decay or rot very slowly. Coir is taken from coconut palms and is used in soil mixes to build soil structure because it resists decay. It is slow to decay and is the main reason I discourage its use in compost piles or use in woodchip mulch. It makes a great semi-permanent component in soil mixes. In both cases you want fertilizer or compost added to circumvent its slow decay. When plants decay, they add to the organic content of the soil and help make it darker. Remove as much of your palm trunk as possible. The palm roots won’t regrow, but any debris left behind from the trunk will decay very slowly. If you decide to use it in your new soil mix (it is a great addition to soils to improve soil structure), chop it as small as possible and make sure that fertilizer or compost is added to the soil to compensate for the slow breakdown of palm debris.

Mexican Fan Palm Removal Read More »

Remaining Fruit Tree Pruning Classes in January 2022

  Fruit tree that was pruned to open center 2022 Friday, January 7                9 am        How to Prune and Thin Apple and Pear Friday, January 14              9 am        How to Prune Pomegranate, Fig and Jujube Friday, January 21               9 am       How to Prune and Fertilize Wine and Table Grapes Friday, January 28               9 am       How to Fertilize Fruit Trees (Fertilizer + Iron) What is covered? Each type of fruit tree is different when grown in our desert climate. Topics will be discussed for each type of fruit tree and how our climate affects each type of tree. Selection. Which fruit trees are best for this climate? What tree characteristics should I look for at the nursery? Planting: Which trees are most wind resistant? How big is the hole? Compost vs soil amendment. How deep should I plant it? Is staking really necessary? How to protect the tree from rabbits? Growing: How do I know if the tree needs fertilizer? How much fertilizer should I give it? When to fertilize? What fertilizer should I use? Will it grow in rock mulch? Does my tree need iron? Water: How often to water in the beginning? How much water does my fruit tree need? Insects: How to control insects that damage the tree? Which insects are the most damaging? Disease: Which diseases are possible and how to prevent them.

Remaining Fruit Tree Pruning Classes in January 2022 Read More »

Is Hopseed Bush Poisonous?

Q I’ve seen mixed comments regarding purple hopseed bushes being toxic to animals. Do you happen to know if they are or not? Any help would be appreciated! A. Keep in mind that about 60 to 70% of all landscape plants are poisonous in one way or another. Toxicity depends on the dose given. I have never considered hopseed a poisonous plant. I checked with another source of information that I consider reliable, and he does not recognize it as poisonous which agrees with my original assessment. Because this source does not consider this plant toxic and the fact that it was previously used by indigenous peoples as a health remedy, I don’t consider it a “poisonous” landscape plant if eaten in moderation. Not as toxic as oleander, tree tobacco, or yellow oleander for instance which have been grown here by backyard gardeners.

Is Hopseed Bush Poisonous? Read More »

Borers in Pine Trees

Q. I am losing portions of my pine trees at my home. All ten were planted from “live” Christmas trees we bought in the past either Mondale or Aleppo type. Out of the 10 trees, 3 are starting to show complete limbs that are dying. I trimmed some “dead” out of one tree this week and saw numerous small holes on it, so I hit it on the cement and this “worm-type bug” fell out. What is this creature and how did it arrive? Is it causing the damage I see in my trees? And finally, how do I get rid of them before they kill all my pines?   Flatheaded borer found in pine trees A. Pines are not a preferred tree of flatheaded borers, like the picture you sent. Flatheaded borers are a problem in many plants but usually not pines. Most of the time in heavy sap producers, like plum and apricot trees, the sap floods an area damaged by insects and “suffocates” invaders like these flatheaded borers. I am not sure if it’s an old tale or not, but I understand that sap that oozes from the damaged branches is first cloudy because of insect feeding, and then becomes translucent as the invader or borer is overwhelmed by the sap and dies. Stress the Usual Culprit My guess is that these trees had limbs stressed because of a drought problem and these stressed limbs attracted borers to these living, but stressed, branches. So first make sure that water is being delivered to an area equal to about half the area under their canopy. Next, when water is applied be sure it reaches a soil depth of about three feet to satisfy any drought condition they might be experiencing. Remember pine trees, just like fig trees and palms, like to have their “tootsies” in water. The trees don’t have to be growing in it, but they like to access it during the hot season, even if the water is deep. They don’t like to be surrounded by a “dry” desert soil. I don’t think “borers” are totally responsible for branch death, but finished them off when the trees became stressed. What to do?  Make sure at least half the area under the tree is getting watered. Plant other deep-rooted plants under the tree to deliver water to a wider area and to make sure. Make sure applications of water are to at least three feet deep. Use a four-foot-long piece of rebar after an irrigation is finished to judge how deep the water “wets” the soil.  If increasing the water doesn’t help, apply a soil drench of borer control insecticides to kill existing borers in the branches. Apply it in May after the tree finishes “flowering”. Any soil drench containing imidacloprid in the active ingredients and for ornamental trees and shrubs will work and should be applied after the plant finishes flowering.

Borers in Pine Trees Read More »