Xtremehorticulture

Wet the Soil First Before Digging the Planting Hole

Q. I’m finally having my empty backyard landscaped. It’s the typical subdivision super hard “soil”. Should it be amended somehow before the new plants are added? More than just in the hole where the plant goes, I mean. Wet the soil first a few days before digging. Moist soil helps to make it softer. Mix compost with the soil taken from the hole by about 25 to 33%. A. Some of the landscape soils are hard, hard, hard! Wet the area to be planted with an hour of sprinkler water from a hose and sprinkler a few days before digging. This water will help make it softer to dig. I would recommend amending the soil in the planting hole with compost or another amendment a few days after it is wetted. Amend it between 25 to 33% with compost (one shovelful of compost to 3 or 4 shovelfuls of soil). The hole for the plant should be dug and amended to a width three times the size of the diameter of the container or roots. Then check it for drainage. The hole should drain water overnight. Wet amended soil should be at least chocolate brown in color. Holes located where fruit trees are to be grown are wetted and amended with compost by about 25 to 33%.             The hole does not have to be dug deeper than the container but should be dug three times the root width of the plants. Amend that soil taken from the hole. The only time the soil needs to be dug deeper than the container is when the soil is very bad at draining water. If a planting hole is filled with water and it drains this water overnight, then the drainage is good enough; three times the width of the roots/container is enough soil preparation. Younger trees are planted in wet, amended soil, covered in woodchips and staked to prevent them from blowing over in strong winds.             If the water does not drain from the hole overnight, you should plant on top of an embankment or a small hill. If you are planting a medium sized shrub (6 to 10 feet tall) in this spot, then the soil in the amended mound or hill should be 12 inches tall and about three or four feet wide. If the tree or shrub is 20 feet tall then the soil mound should be 18 inches high. Cover this soil with a mulch of some sort, either woodchips or rock depending on the type of plant.

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Wind is Damaging to Plants

Windy Weather Windy weather, like we had over a past weekend, is very damaging to plants. (Notice I said “is” and not “can be”?) Light winds cause very little damage. Moderate winds cause moderate amounts of damage. Strong winds cause lots of damage. Why? I can think of at least two reasons; extent of damage and water use. Shallow rooting of tree because of annual flowers planted at its base. Vegetables and Wind             Vegetables grow the best when located closest to the downwind side of a windbreak. Plants don’t care if the windbreak is living or not, they just want the wind slowed. For this reason, the best windbreaks are not solid walls (e.g., block walls) but perforated walls (e.g., chain-link fence with slats inserted in them). Solid walls cause the wind to swirl. Perforated walls cause the wind to slow. Science has shown us the best windbreaks are about 80-90% solid, not 100% solid. Windbreaks for orchard in a canyon Wind Damage and Fruit Trees             Examples of damage include leaf and flower damage with small fruit ripped from the tree with some types of fruit trees. Plants grown in windy spots are smaller than plants grown in protected areas. In strong windy locations I have seen fruit trees that lean away from the wind. Wind damage to fruit trees is the worst on trees closest to the wind. Wind damage lessens on the second and third row of fruit trees. Plant fruit trees in blocks so they give each other wind protection. Locate fruit trees that tolerate wind damage the most on the windward side of the block. Examples of wind tolerant fruit trees are pomegranates, apples, and pears. These trees will protect the less wind tolerant fruit trees. Fruit trees less tolerant of wind include citrus, plums, apricots, and peaches. Wind and Water Use             Plants during windy weather use more water. If the winds are strong and continuous, they use more water! Wind is a strong predictor of plant water use. In fact, along with how bright the sun is shining it is one of the strongest predictors of plant water use.  Pay Attention Go outside in the morning. Look at the weather. Is it bright and sunny with very few clouds in the sky? Winds is a major predictor of high-water use. Look at the trees. Are the leaves moving? Look at a flag flying on a flagpole. Is the flag barely moving? Is the flag flapping a lot? Is the flag rippling because of the wind? Those are indicators of wind strength. Bright, cloudless skies and strong winds equals high water use in our desert climate. It’s time to water during bright windy weather.

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Will a Caper Bush Grow in Las Vegas?

Q. Will a caper bush (Capparis spinosa) grow in Las Vegas? Where might I buy one? I called a local nursery and got nowhere. A. Briny capers are the unripened flower buds from a wild spiny plant that grows in the Mediterranean region and parts of Asia. Immature flowers from these plants are dried and then put in a brine solution for preservation. Their lemony, floral hints might remind you slightly of green olives since they are added to food as a condiment. More on Capers from Wikipedia             The plants are usually started from seed but I’m sure some entrepreneurial online nursery grows them as plants to sell. They are about 3 feet tall and wider than they are tall since the stems tend to lay down if given a lot of water.  I have never tried to grow them in our climate. They have enough cold tolerance and they are Mediterranean. I would try it on the Eastern side of a building with soil improvement and additional water at the time of planting. I’m no expert but if this plant grows in the dry, hot Mediterranean region, it has a good chance of surviving our desert climate as well.  The information I saw maintains they are good down to winter temperatures of about 20°F when they get older and larger. If temperatures get in the low 20s this plant suckers from its base. Think Bay Laurel, oleander, Italian Cypress, and you’ll get an idea of the climate and soils they like.

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Finely Ground Eggshells are Okay for Desert Garden Soils

Q. I read somewhere that putting crushed up eggshells is good for the garden, so I have been doing that. I also throw tea leaves and coffee grounds on the garden which I know is good, but I was wondering about the eggshells. Are they helpful and I should continue or forget it and throw them out? Eggs and bananas at our farm in Batangas, Philippines. Ground up eggshells are better chemically for the soil in out tropical, high rainfall soil than in the desert where there is plenty of calcium. Banana peels release more nutrients than the eggshells.  A. They do two things; organics improve the structure and texture of the soil and add to its chemistry. Warm wet soil decomposes the smallest stuff first. Put eggshells and tea leaves in a blender with some water before composting or adding them to a soil. Coffee grounds are already “ground up” so it’s not necessary to use a blender.  Any kind of “organic” breaks down in the soil through the action of organisms where it turns into “Black Gold”, improving soil structure and slowly releasing the chemicals they contain. There is a lot of information available on the chemicals released by eggshells, tea leaves and coffee grounds. But get them small if you want them to be released quicker. When adding stuff to the soil it is better to add a whole bunch of different stuff than just one thing like all eggshells or all banana peels. Eggshells are mostly calcium, the same kind used to increase alkalinity in soil  It is better for soils that are more acidic such as higher rainfall areas. But still eggshells are not bad for the soil. 

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Garage of Old Fertilizers – What to Do?

Q. What do I do with all the partially used chemical fertilizers in my garage? Chemical storage. A. Most mineral fertilizers can be applied as the fertilizer bag recommends. They dont go bad unless they get wet.  Some fertilizers that contain pesticides must be disposed of properly. If your fertilizer does contain a pesticide then ask me how to get rid of it. If permitted and you no longer want or need these types of fertilizers, give them to your non-organic neighbors for application. It’s best to use them up as normal applications rather than put them out as garbage.             The mineral fertilizers considered “hazardous waste” usually have a weed killer or insecticide that is no longer permitted to be applied by homeowners. These fertilizers should be considered hazardous waste and disposed of according to county regulations that are intended to protect our water supply. Other types of mineral fertilizers can legally be applied. But ask to make sure.

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Replace Conventional Fertilizers with Organic Fertilizers

Q. I want to replace all my chemical fertilizers with organic formulations. The problem is that I’m not finding any organic fertilizers for landscape trees and shrubs such as podocarpus and photinia. Is it possible to make my own? Please tell me what you recommend. For the USDA National Organic Program find fertilizers that are OMRI Listed or Approved for the USDA NOP. Other countries, places and people have different definitions of “organic”. A. The definition of “organic” can be difficult. To some people organic means free from pesticides and mineral fertilizers. To others it’s things like fish emulsion, kelp meal, bone meal guano, etc. To others it means strict adherence to the USDA definition of organic. In the United States the term organic usually means it’s a listed product of OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) which recommends products for the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP). OMRI Listed – USDA NOP             There are fertilizers in bags listed as OMRI approved. I would look for the word “Organic” mentioned somewhere on the bag. Technically, a product cannot mention the word organic unless it’s recommended for USDA’s organic program. One that comes to mind is the OMRI Listed fertilizer called, “All Purpose” manufactured by Grow More. It resembles a mineral fertilizer when you open the bag but it’s one of the “organic” types.

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Chemical to Cause Fruit Drop in Ornamental Plum

Q. I have an ornamental flowering plum that produces fruit. I want to spray it to stop the fruit production and the messiness it brings. Last year I had a commercial applicator apply it, but I think I want to save some money and do it myself this year. This is ornamental (flowering) plum fruit. The fruit is harvested by many to make a very tart (lots of sugar) jam or jelly. Commercially it is available as a fruit tree called ‘Sprite’ and ‘Delight’. A. Mark your calendar because yours will flower within the same week, plus or minus, every year. You’ll have to spray the tree with a chemical every year to get the fruit to drop when it’s still small and prevent the messiness later. To get it to work, spray the entire canopy of the tree when as many of the flowers are open as possible. Applying Olive Stop             You will find it under several different similar trade names like, “Olive Stop”, “Fruit Eliminator”, “Fruit Be Gone”, or some similar name. What is important is the active ingredient listed on the front label in small letters. The most common active ingredient is Florel, but you might also find it listed as NAA, Fruitone, etc. How to Use it             This concentrated spray is diluted with water and first sprayed when the flowers on the tree are fully open 20 to 30%. For best results it is sprayed again at 80% of full bloom a couple weeks later. Commercial applicators spray the tree a single time when it’s close to full bloom. It’s a good idea to include a wetting agent or surfactant before spraying to improve the sprays coverage and penetration.             It’s important that the flowers are open and sprayed to the point where the inside is wet, and the flower starts dripping when you’re finished. The canopy of the tree is dripping with the spray when you’re done. This is called “to the point of runoff”. Spraying the open flowers above their reach is the usual problem for most homeowners because they don’t have a good way of spraying all the flowers. Ornamental Flowering Plum             The ornamental flowering plum is an actual fruit tree. Nothing wrong with the fruit. It’s naturally “puckery”. Many people make jam and jelly with it when the fruit is not sprayed. I would not recommend making jam or jelly with it if it’s been sprayed. Add as much sugar to it as your taste permits.

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Mormon Tea Disease or Drought?

Q. At our wildlife preserve near Midland, Texas, I found ephedra plants (Mormon tea) that looks like it might be diseased. Other plants in the area look fine. We are currently in a severe drought condition, but most ephedra clumps are flowering. Have any ideas? Disease or drought? Give it to a pathologist and they will claim its a disease. Give it to a soil and water scientist and they will claim drought. Are they both right? Which came first, the chicken or the egg. A. Native plants like “Mormon tea” or ephedra will dieback when the soil gets dry for a long time. That;s their nature. Dying back is normal but it can be confused with a disease, or it might be a disease causing it. Sometimes native plants succumb to diseases when they are weakened and don’t receive enough water. But don’t worry. They will spring back to life during the next rain. Drought? Water in the soil is irregular in supply because of its distribution and the soils capability of storing water. For this reason, some plants receive more water than others just simply because of differences in soil texture (variability in soil, various amounts of sand, silt, and clay). Because of genetics some plants are more susceptible to disease than others. Disease?             If your curiosity is bugging you, the way to find out which disease is to contact your State Plant pathologist and send in a sample. But this may not give you an answer you can apply but it may solve your curiosity. I’m guessing the State Plant pathologist will confirm there is a disease present but it’s probably one of the less vigorous diseases like Cytospora spp. that affects weakened various plants that are in the process of dying back due to a lack of water. An Alternative             Instead of sending it to the pathologist I would take a couple of gallons of water and pour about a quart to 2 quarts of this water at the base of several of the “diseased” plants and watch what happens. Reaction by the plant might take two weeks in warm weather. You may see some new growth at the base of the plant in a week or two. Then again, you might not. It depends on what you want to learn; is there a disease present? Or do you want to solve the potential disease problem?

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African Sumac Limb Disease

Q. My African sumac tree has a fungus in it. I am thinking of cutting off the whole main branch because of the disease but it’s a guide branch and I hate to do that. Or can I just cut off the branch that broke? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated! Bottom picture is limb of African Sumac reportedly dead. The top picture is the inside of the limb cut open to show the dead part inside. A. The disease won’t spread to healthy parts of the plant. The rot or disease spreads internally inside the tree because it’s what we call “saprophytic” and only attacks dead or very weak wood. There is nothing you can do to stop it. Tree Biology             The center of the tree is composed of dead wood. The only living part of the tree is a thin ring just under the bark. This living part is strong enough to stop the spread of this “saprophytic” disease. The only thing you can do to help your tree is to make sure that whatever you use to cut or prune the wood is as clean and sharp as possible. Narrow crotch angles are not good in landscape trees. They are shaped like the letter “V”. After time they start to split as their weight increases and rot can begin on the inside of the trunk. Narrow crotches start to split during the wind and its internal dead wood begins to rot. This rotting will not affect the living parts of the tree. Only the dead parts.             My guess is that this “rot” started at the top of a narrow crotch; where two limbs come together. Narrow crotch is making the letter V when you look at it. Week crotches can split in strong winds particularly if the inside of the tree has been starting to rot there. A strong crotch angle makes the letter “U” and less likely to start rotting in that spot and then split apart in strong winds.              Prune it enough to shape the tree the way you want it. Just cut off the branch that broke very close to the next larger branch and let it heal and completely close it off in three or four years. It takes longer to heal if it’s not cut close to the trunk so there is no longer a stub remaining. If the tree looks healthy to you otherwise then don’t worry about it. Cut off the limb close to the trunk with a clean blade.

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Washington States Department of Agriculture: Fertilizer Composition

I think it was the cleric and economist Robert Malthus who developed a theory that large populations of organisms would slowly make their own environment more “toxic” and no longer sustain themselves. In some ways what he observed is true. We are living in an environment that is becoming more “toxic” as we grow our own food. Some of these “toxicities” come from industrial processes and some of them from our own efforts. Plastics found in human blood Fertilizers and Toxicity Our worlds are becoming more and more toxic. A few states in the US have posted the level of toxicity in fertilizers for home gardens. There has been lots of research on this topic. Brochures exist on heavy metals and gardens. And here. These toxicities are below what the US EPA considers “safe” for human health but they do exist. Another problem with additions to garden soils are the levels of pharmaceuticals used when producing gardens soils and compost. This is from the Washington State Department of Agriculture website

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