Xtremehorticulture

Soil Iron Fertilizer Applications End About April-May

As I mentioned before, we are nearing the end of any soil applications of iron fertilizers that work. You can still do it now but don’t expect glorious results like you would see when you apply it at the beginning of new growth (spring).  Soil applied iron applications will end about April-May as new growth slows down and finishes. These iron fertilizers and include Kerex, EDDHA iron chelates and any other iron fertilizers meant to be applied to the soil.  Kerex iron application was made to the soil near this plum in April of 2015. Didnt work. Should have used EDDHA iron chelate or more of the Kerex or added compost AND then applied Kerex. If there is not enough soil “organics” to decompose then any iron fertilizer will work. Decomposition of organics in the soil lowers its alkalinity and makes just about any iron fertilizer work. Bottom line, be careful greening up plants that have been growing in rock mulch more than three or four years. Once early spring through early summer has passed, the only thing that cures leaf yellowing are the leaf sprays applied directly to yellowing leaves.  This chelate is iron EDTA, not EDDHA. EDTA chelated iron works well IF the soil alkalinity (pH) is 7.6 or below. For any iron to work well also requires that nitrogen fertilizer is present. Always apply iron chelates with a well fertilized plant OR include a nitrogen fertilizer at the same time. Iron sprays like this one are less expensive but you MUST adjust the water chemistry either by adding  a cup of vinegar (acetic acid) to a gallon of water or use distilled/deionized water. That’s a poor substitute for soil applications of iron, best done earlier in the season (late January- March) but sometimes the yellowing is so severe it must be done when it’s seen. Sometimes the yellowing of plants is so severe that an iron application, either applied to the soil or sprayed on the leaves (or both), is necessary to prevent death or injury to the plant.             Just remember the alkalinity of our tap water is very, very important to a spray’s effectiveness so either adjust the alkalinity of tap water with a cup of vinegar for each gallon or use distilled water for your iron spray.             Regarding applications of fertilizer, do the trees really need it? It’s best to apply plant growth fertilizers in the spring but applying it now, if desperate, is still better than nothing. Applying fertilizers when trees don’t need it is a waste of fertilizer, a waste of money and unhealthy for the trees. New growth in apricot. Excessive. Should be an average of about 18 inches.  Look in several locations at the color of the leaves and the amount of new growth. If the leaves are a very dark green and new growth is exploding, your trees don’t need a fertilizer application. Save the fertilizer application for next February or, least wise, the November coming up. Dense canopy of a fruit tree. Add no fertilizer this year.

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Possible Fireblight Again

  Although not confirmed this is what fireblight disease can look like on pear. Dead or dying branches can appear in April or May. Ah, Yes the Memories Do you remember the outbreak of fireblight disease about 10 years ago? Fireblight disease can be brutal to many of the landscape and Orchard trees in the Apple family (pome fruit) in an orchard if it’s not caught right away. The hardest hit trees were Asian pear (Hosui, Shinseki, 20th Century and many others) then the next hardest hit were many of the European pears (Bartlett in particular) and a few apples such as Mutsu and Pink Lady. This disease is extremely virulent. Please check in the landscape Pyracantha, loquat, cotoneaster, Photinia, flowering ornamental pear such as the Callery types.   Fireblight disease may not be this obvious to the casual onlooker. How Does It Spread? This deadly bacterial disease to plants is spread from plant to plant in the spring when the flowers are open or through open wounds after late pruning. However, this disease is frequently not easily seen until April or May.  This picture is the common description of fireblight disease; black like it was hit with fire and the prominent Shepard’s hook.  How to Control It Just because this disease seems to be in remission, don’t trust it. It will be back like gangbusters. Prune out the dead wood 12 inches below where the infection seems to be active. When you’re done making the cut, sanitize your pruning blades within 70% solution of isopropyl alcohol. Do this after every pruning cut. Then when you have all of your cuttings together, bag them, tie the bag shut and put it in the dumpster far away from the infected plants. Wash your hands, your tools and treat them with a isopropyl alcohol I last time before you put them away. This disease was tweeted by me. So if you don’t subscribe to my twitter account, get it!  Robert Ll Morris @Extremehort Update: Fireblight disease is still popping up in May on fire blight pruned Asian pears and their hybrids, many European pears like Bartlett, some apples, quince, ornamental pear, pyracantha and cotoneaster; not on citrus, just the rose family. Where did it come from? Anybody’s guess but it could be your neighbor or at least from the neighborhood. The most effective treatment is pruning it out. But just like removing any systemic disease you have to make deep cuts to get all of it. Cut or prune out 8 to 12 inches below where you see it. Sanitize your pruning blades with alcohol.

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