August 2022 – Xtremehorticulture

Estimating How Much Water Landscapes Use

When you estimate a plant’s water use, the plant must be growing all by itself. When plants are grown together the roots intermingle, their branches might intermingle creating shade and wind diversions, not only that but its water use is confused with any neighboring plants close by! When you estimate a landscape water use, use the total sum of all your plants. It will be a little high because of influences by plants nearby. This can be estimated by someone who knows plants and their water use. For a traditionally sized family of four, landscape water accounts for about 70% of your water bill. When recording the water use of plants, they must be separated from other plants such as using this weighing lysimeter and hoisting the individual plants. How many square feet is your total landscape? Your landscape size is your lot size minus the house, patio, driveway, sidewalks, and any other hardscape that would be difficult to remove. The problem is your monthly water bill comes, at best, in gallons of water. Landscapes vary in size. The size of your landscape is in square feet. Water bills, like this one from Henderson, NV, lists the water use of an entire home lot. You must multiply this by approximately 0.7 to get the actual water use of a landscape. You must convert the gallons of water used by your landscape to the size of your landscape in square feet. The multiplier you needed is to convert a landscape from cubic feet to gallons. The magic number that does that is multiplying the square footage by 7.8. That is, 7.8 gallons fits into a one cubic foot spot. Two cubic feet contains (7.8 gallons x 2 cubic feet) 15.6 gallons for every 2 cubic feet. The front landscape size is calculate from the total landscaped area, not including the driveway, sidewalk, or any so-called hardscaped area. Any time your annual gallonage represents less than two feet of water covering your entire landscape, you are doing a very good job! That is less than two feet of water needed to water your landscape each year! When the landscape gallon totals less than 4 feet deep, you are doing an acceptable job. Six feet or more is unacceptable for desert landscapes. For instance, let’s say your landscape area totals 2000 square feet. This size includes every possible spot a plant can be planted. Two feet of water covering this landscape area = 2000 x 2 x 7.8 = 31,200 gallons of irrigation water per year. That is very good. Four feet of water covering your total landscape area = 2000 x 4 x 7.8 = 62,400 gallons of irrigation water per year. That is acceptable. Six feet of water or more covering the total landscape area (2000 x 6 x 7.8 = 93,600 gallons of irrigation water per year) is unacceptable.

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Calamondin, or Calamansi, Tender to Winter Temperatures in Las Vegas

Leave a Comment / calamansi, calamondin, citrus, fruit / xtremehorticulture

Q. I received a young calamondin tree from a friend in memory of my father’s passing. I would love to nurture and grow this tree successfully. Any tips? Is it likely to bear fruit? How long should a small nursery stake remain? To start side branching and protecting its trunk from the intense desert sunlight, this tree should be pruned at about knee height. During the next three years, leave it alone. A. I am sorry for your loss. In the Philippines, where it is a native, it is called calamansi in Filipino or Tagalog. So therefore, it is subtropical, and it will not tolerate freezing temperatures, much below about 28F. If we get a cold winter, it can freeze. It does not like our desert, so it prefers locations on the north or east side of your home. And lastly, it likes amended soil so plant it either with compost mixed in the soil (one shovelful for each three of desert soil). It grows best in soils covered in wood chips. However, if your soil is covered in rock, then rake back the rock and apply about a quarter of an inch of compost and water it in. Do this every other year. Never plant in a dry hole. The soil in the planting hole is wet and filled with amended soil. When staking fruit trees they don’t need a large tree stake unless they are huge. Use the stake that came in the container. After planting, push it deeper and tie the tree to the nursery stake with stretchable nursery tape. Remove after the tree is growing well, usually the next year. When planting it, pound the stake into the solid ground beneath the planting hole so that it supports the tree. Then tie the tree tight to the stake with green nursery tape. Remove the planting stake and tape after one growing season. When it gets established but still young, form a small tree by pruning it at knee height. Remove any limbs that are growing along the trunk below this cut. Don’t expect this kind of crop on your tree. This is exceptional and can result from planting in the right climate, providing fertilizer and water when it needs it. The fruit is about the size of a large marble or small golf ball and the juice and pulp is tart, like a lime. The tree should start bearing fruit when it is still small and young, perhaps the second year after it is planted. The production of fruit will become more as it gets bigger. It is harvested when the green color of the rind starts to turn from green to light green. Filipinos use it for flavoring fish (by squeezing a cut fruit seeds and all) and also as a beverage like a lime and many other things.

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Chinese Pistache Should Never Be Watered Daily After Planting

Leave a Comment / container planting, donut, moat, ring / xtremehorticulture

Q. I purchased a Chinese Pistache one year ago that was about 12′ tall; not a small tree. Everything was fine until July, about 11 months after planting. The leaves went from deep green to dry and crunchy, quickly. The tree was watered twice a day for 25 minutes during the summer. The supplier of the tree told me it was insect damage and to water once a day for 45 minutes longer. My concern is that all the landscaping is on the same zone. It is all doing extremely well. The landscaper has recommended 20-25minutes/ twice per day. I’m confused because I was told that what will kill the tree is if the soil is too wet. Chinese pistache tree recently planted. A. Your watering schedule is very confusing. Part of the confusion is that everything is watered the same. In landscapes, trees and shrubs should be watered separately from those plants requiring daily irrigations. In other words, trees and shrubs are watered separately from those requiring daily waterings. Daily summer irrigation is required only by lawns, flower beds and vegetable gardens. Instead put a donut or moat around the tree to force more water toward its roots. The frequency of irrigation (on and off) is only controlled by the irrigation valves. Irrigation valves do not control the amount of water plants receive. The amount of water they receive is controlled by the size and number of irrigation emitters. Trees and shrubs are deeper-rooted; the amount of water they receive should only be controlled by irrigation emitters. The amount of water each plant receives depends on its size. Larger plants require more water than smaller plants. Irrigation controllers dont have to be as fancy as this one. Figure out what you need it to do. The primary function of an irrigation controller is to turn irrigation valves on or off. Never plant anything living in a “dry” hole regardless of the time of year it’s planted. The hole should always be moist or at least “mucky” when planting. After planting is finished, give the soil a chance to start drying before watering again. This should be at least one day except when planting in pure sand. If your trees and shrubs are watered the same as everything else in the landscape, it is being watered wrong. There should be at least two irrigation valves; one irrigation valve is needed for summer daily irrigations, and the second valve (or other valves) is needed for watering everything that is not watered daily in the summer. Notice I said at least two irrigation valves. Your landscape probably needs more than two. Next, connect an irrigation valve to those plants requiring daily summer irrigations (lawn, flower bed, vegetable garden;). These are the only plants connected to this valve. Reserve the second valve for bigger plants needing nondaily irrigations. At planting time, dig the hole for plants three times the width needed to just barely fit the plant in the hole. Not just a hole big enough to fit the plant in and call it done. This is the desert. Soils need to be amended for planting and the planting hole needs to be wide, not necessarily deep.

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Lawns Mowed Too Short Can Be Problem Areas for Weeds

Leave a Comment / spurge, Weeds, white milky sap / xtremehorticulture

Q. For years I’ve had a problem with weeds in certain areas of my yard. They arise in July and continue during our humid monsoon season. Every spring I give my lawn a couple of doses of Scotts ‘Weed and Feed’. I’m tired of pulling weeds by hand. It’s very tedious work and I’m now up there in age. Spotted spurge invades open areas that have lots of water. They are a small weed with small white sap that exudes from broken stems. A. The weed you are talking about is called “spotted spurge” because of its dark spots on its tiny leaves. It is a low growing spreading weed with a milky sap when you break their spindly and thin stems. It spreads quickly into unprotected areas and germinates from its own seed which it spews everywhere from its tiny flowers. Spotted spurge invades an open area that is wet. It has “milky” white sap and spots on its leaves. All spotted spurge are considered “weak competitors” when shaded by other plants or the soil is covered by a thick mulch, and quickly invades areas after a rain or during frequent irrigations. In the desert it favors the frequent irrigations of lawns, flower beds, or raised vegetable beds. Lawn grass with dead or dying areas should not be cleaned up until you are ready to plant grass seed in the fall or spring. Also raise the mower height and never mow the lawn below 2 1/2 inches tall if fescue. Because it’s a weak competitor, spotted spurge is controlled by covering these open areas with three inches of a surface mulch or shading these same areas with other plants. The existing plants must be killed first and then immediately apply a preemergent weed killer to that attacks the seed before it germinates. A thick layer of mulch helps to prevent many weeds from starting and becoming a problem. It doesn’t help with common bermudagrass and other perennial weeds that are tough to get rid of. To address your situation, first kill the existing plants. This can be done with a hoe, pulling them, or killing it with chemical such as Monterey’s ‘Spurge Power’ and then removing the plant by hand after it dies. As soon as the existing plant is removed, immediately apply a preemergent weed barrier such as any chemical applied as a pre-emergent weed killer that controls crabgrass. The pre-emergent weed killers last about 30 days if left undisturbed.

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Fireblight Causes Problems with Fruit Trees if Missed Earlier

Leave a Comment / disease, fire blight, fireblight, fruit trees / xtremehorticulture

Q. I came back from vacation and my ‘Gala’ apple tree branch was dead. The tree also has some black spotting under the bark. I’m hoping it’s not damage from fire blight. Both pictures are fire blight in ‘Gala’ apple tree with an older infection. As this reader suggested, the earlier symptoms were not noticed and the bacterial disease has now invaded the trunk. Most likely the trees will either die or may serve as a host for further infection of trees. A. I looked at the picture you sent of your fruit tree, and it looks like older fire blight disease that escaped earlier detection and is now in the trunk of your tree. Fire blight is a serious disease that is highly contagious for many apples. It’s more damaging to some apples like ‘Pink Lady’ than others such as your ‘Gala’. It’s particularly damaging to all Asian pears. It can be damaging to some European pears, like ‘Bartlett’ and others, such as ‘Keiffer’, it doesn’t seem to affect much here. This is fire blight disease on a recently planted ‘Bartlett’ pear. Sometimes this disease can come in on nursery plants from “dirty” growers. It is damaging to some ornamentals like pyracantha and some cotoneasters in the rose family. The varieties of these plants may show differences. It just depends on the genetics of the plant combined with the genetics of the disease. When I saw this disease in the spring it was heavily into Asian pears, some European pears and many apples and quince. What gave it away then was the early spring growth, which was black, hooked and had the presence of sap. Fire Blight control is normally through removal of the infected limbs 10 to 12 inches below where the infection is seen. What gave it away to me now are the dark cankers (black spotting) on the trunks of your trees and also the presence of sap. The “sap” is what is contagious and can cause it to spread. The dark cankers are probably from earlier fireblight infestations. Once this particular disease gets into the trunk the tree usually dies. If the tree continues to look bad or worsens, I would cut these trees down and get the pruning off of the property. You cannot use this wood for wood chips or anything near plants or it can reinfest susceptible plants.

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Soil Amendments and Backfilling Fruit Trees

Leave a Comment / Desert soil, planting fruit trees, soil amendments / xtremehorticulture

Q. I’m planting new fruit trees this year. I’ve noticed there seems to be a consensus that backfilling should be done with only native soil, without any amendments. However, is there an exception in Las Vegas where the soil is exceptionally poor? Planting fruit trees in Las Vegas directly in amended desert soil. A. Yes there is, and you are correct. Our desert soils normally need amending at planting time but they are full of nutrients if they are not poisonous to plants. If you watch online videos or get information from outside sources, they may tell you it’s a waste of money to improve the soil at the time of planting. They may be correct in other locations but under our desert conditions it usually isn’t true. Planting 3000 fruit trees directly in amended desert soil at an orchard in Las Vegas, Nevada. In cases cited by outside sources, the soil already had enough organics in it that it made no difference; 2% organic content or higher. The research at Oklahoma State University during the 1970s clearly showed that no amendment to the soil was needed and mixing organics such as compost into the soil at the time of planting was a “waste of money”. This original research was repeated at Arizona State University where the researchers used an agricultural soil with a similar organic content; 2% or more. The researchers came to the same conclusion; the addition of organic matter (compost) was a waste of money. Ipso facto, no soil amendments are needed! Very practical original research often proves what we already know It is common knowledge that if the soil has an organic content more than 2% that no organic addition is needed and it’s a waste of money to mix in additional compost when planting trees and shrubs. What about soils with organic content much lower than 2%. Is organic matter still needed? That research is never been done. Many of our Mojave desert soils have an organic content much much lower than 1%. How do you know if your soil has an organic content above 2%? Send it to a soil testing lab (pay $70 and wait two weeks) where they can accurately measure the organic content of your soil and tell you its percentage. Or you can look at its color and approximately judge for yourself. The color of a soil darkens as the organic content increases. If your soil has a light tan color, the color of “creamy coffee” then it has a very low organic content; probably less than 2%. You can also do a “jar test” of your soil. The organics of a layer (if they are large enough) will float to the surface of the water. Soil jar test

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My Japanese Privet Died

Leave a Comment / Japanese privet, leaf drop, Wilting / xtremehorticulture

Q. I have two tree form privets; one has nearly died, and the second looks to be withering at the top. I have 8 bush form pivots that seem relatively healthy, and 2 that have completely died with one trying to bounce back from near death. All the trees and bushes are in the same area getting the same amount of water. There just doesn’t seem to be a reason why some die and others thrive right next to each other. Japanese privet dieback. Jp is a mesic plant not suitable for rock, dry or very hot locations. A. First of all, Japanese privet, like its name suggests, is not suitable for the desert. It’s suitable for Japan and similar climates. Whenever we take a plant and grow it outside of its “comfort zone” (parts of Japan and China) we will have problems unless we take these problem areas into consideration. Plants, unlike animals, cannot move from an inhospitable place to a more hospitable place. We can, as all animals can, because we have legs. For this reason, it’s location, where it’s planted, is extremely important. Japanese privet can handle the hot temperatures of southern Nevada but not dry locations. It does very well in lawns in Las Vegas. Do You Know What Will Happen Tomorrow? You are looking at this plant at one point in time. You don’t know what will happen to this plant in the future; all you can do is look at its current situation and what happened to it in the past. Japanese privet will do okay in the desert if it receives afternoon shade, enough water and soil improvement; just like Japan. Japanese privet is what we call a “mesic” plant and must receive adequate amounts water on a regular basis. Secondly, Japanese privet performs well with amended soil and needs this soil improved on a regular basis to survive. For this reason, it doesn’t like to be surrounded by rock mulch when the amendments run out. Thirdly, it doesn’t like direct desert sunlight all day long. Particularly if surrounded by rock.

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NPS (Non Point Source) Grants Until September 23

Leave a Comment / environmental protection, grant, non point source / xtremehorticulture

$900,000 in grants now available to protect and enhance water quality in Nevada The Nevada Division of Environmental Protection’s (NDEP) Bureau of Water Quality Planning is pleased to announce that $900,000 in grant funding is now available for projects that prevent or control water pollution from “nonpoint sources,” a leading cause of water quality impairment in Nevada. Funded by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), these “Clean Water Act” grants are open to the public and Tribal governments, nonprofit organizations, and educational institutions throughout Nevada. A non-federal match (cash and/or in-kind) of at least 50 percent of the total project cost is required. Examples of projects eligible for funding include: · Water quality improvement projects; · Implementation of Best Management Practices to protect water quality; · Public education programs aimed at reducing NPS pollution; and · Identified projects from an approved watershed-based plan and/or Total Maximum Daily Load (TMDL) implementation plan. Applications will be accepted from 8:00 a.m., August 15th, 2022 until 5:00 p.m., September 23, 2022 Applicants unsure of eligibility of proposals are invited to submit a Pre-application. Pre-applications are due by 5:00 p.m., September 23rd, 2022, but are not required Nonpoint source water pollution impacts Nevada’s water resources when rain, snowmelt and irrigation water flows over developed or disturbed land, carrying with it pollutants like oil, sediment, pesticides, bacteria and other debris. This polluted water makes its way into Nevada’s waterways either directly or through storm drains, and can harm the overall water quality of area lakes, rivers, and groundwater. Nevada 319(h) Nonpoint Source Grant Program For Questions Contact Jason Kuchnicki [email protected] (O) 775-687-9450

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Buy Local as Much as Possible

Leave a Comment / farmers market, Las Vegas, Mojave Desert / xtremehorticulture

National Farmers Market Week 2022 USDA Secretary Proclaims 2022 National Farmers Market Week Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack proclaimed August 7-13 as National Farmers Market Week to champion the direct-to-consumer producers, market managers, and customers that make their communities come alive during market days. Farmers markets have great importance in the larger goals of USDA’s Food System Transformation framework, and continue to be spaces for community engagement and education. Tricia Kovacs, Deputy Administrator of the Transportation and Marketing Program within the Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS), discusses this in her new blog post. Throughout the week, AMS will feature social media and blog content to highlight the projects and successes of local and regional farmers markets. Follow @USDA_AMS on Twitter and Instagram to stay up to date. Grab those reusable bags and see you at the market! Read the Full Proclamation Celebrate National Farmers Market Week at the USDA Farmers Market The USDA Farmers Market is hosting a homecoming-themed celebration for National Farmers Market week on August 12, 2022 from 9:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m. In addition to the more than 20 vendors that attend the market each week, there will be a variety of exhibitors from federal agencies and community organizations focused on local food and community connections. There will also be a recipe demonstration at the market’s VegU tent, activities and prizes for kids at the Produce Pals tent, musical performances, and more. Stop by to celebrate the positive impact farmers markets make in communities across the country! Visit the USDA Farmers Market Take Advantage of USDA’s Local Food Directories Since its creation in 2010, the Local Food Directories website has transformed over the years to include information that makes it easy for customers to find fresh, local foods through four main outlets. Recent updates have made the directories even easier to use on the go, on your phone or computer. USDA also launched a new directory for agritourism. As the platform continues to grow, check out this blog post for tips on how to navigate this resource, especially during National Farmers Market Week when supporting local markets can be a few clicks away. Visit the Local Food Directories Page Sharing Findings from the National Farmers Market Managers Survey The 2019 National Farmers Market Survey, conducted by USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) and the National Agricultural Statistical Service (NASS), collected data regarding the market practices of managers in 2019 from 10,000 farmers markets. Using trends and statistics found from these efforts, AMS and its cooperative agreement partner, Wheaton College, created five research briefs highlighting results from this survey and sharing insights into the trajectory for farmers markets into the future. For example, did you know that farmers market managers are often volunteers (34%), rather than paid employees of the market (29%). Nationally, 68% of vendors present in 2019 returned from the 2018 season, with more than one-third (37%) of markets experiencing an increase. Additionally, around one-third of farmers markets offered or engaged in at least one food waste and/or conservation program in 2019. For more details on these trends, visit the AMS website for a full set of research findings. Explore the Research Briefs Seeds of Success: Digging into the Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion Program Each month, we’re highlighting the work of Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion grant recipients. Community Foodworks/FRESHFARM Community Foodworks, which later merged with FRESHFARM, received a Farmers Market Promotion Program (FMPP) grant in 2011 to start a farmers market in the Columbia Heights neighborhood of Washington, D.C., an area of the city with limited access to fresh and local produce. After establishing this market, they received an additional FMPP grant in 2014 to expand beyond the neighborhood. They grew their markets and created a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program, building rapport with participating farms and local organizations. In 2017, Community Foodworks applied for a Local Food Promotion Program (LFPP) grant to establish the Pop-Up Food Hub (PUFH) program. Community Foodworks launched this project to purchase produce wholesale from farmers and distribute this food to local organizations directly. This bridged the gap between small producers and community organizations, giving both groups a stable and reliable market, and encouraging more local food options. FRESHFARM currently is continuing to work on farm to school initiatives with public schools in D.C. and nearby Arlington, Virginia while simultaneously working to increase the number of pick-up sites for individuals to collect their CSA boxes. Read the Full Story Seeds of Success: Where Are They Now? The Agricultural Marketing Service’s (AMS) Seeds of Success highlights accomplishments and lessons learned from Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion Program (FMLFPP) grant recipients. During National Farmers Market Week (August 7-13), we are sharing adaptations and successes of recipients focused on farmers market related projects. Renaissance Jamestown – Chautauqua County, NY As a direct result of community advocacy, the City of Jamestown City Council passed a resolution in 2020 that ensured annual support of and the allowance for the farmers market to operate on public lands and city-owned parks without costly ‘event’ fees or permits. The FMLFPP grant funds helped promote the awareness and perpetuity of this local market that continues to be a vital support system for low-income communities and regional farmers. Read more about Renaissance Jamestown. Franklin County Farmers Market – Frankfort, KY Like many businesses during the pandemic, the Franklin County Farmers Market adopted a hybrid model offering both online ordering with curbside pickup and traditional in-person sales for the 2021-2022 season. They also partnered with Community Farm Alliance to offer FreshRx, a vegetable prescription program for expectant moms and a voucher program to connect produce vendors with local schools. Read more about Franklin County Farmers Market. Adelante Mujeres – Forest Grove, OR This non-profit organization provides holistic education and empowerment to low-income Latina women, helping with child nutrition and access to locally grown and culturally appropriate food. Their farmers wanted to be able to sell directly to consumers and as a result, created the Cornelius Farmers Market in 2020 with

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Orange Tree Problems During and Shortly After Rain

Leave a Comment / citrus, Las Vegas, Mojave Desert, orange tree / xtremehorticulture

Q. What is wrong with my orange tree? It has lots of oranges, but the tips of the trees are dying in some places. Any plants, including this citrus, can have problems after a rain in the desert. A. Your pictures look like either an insect or disease problem, both I have few skills about. First, I would open the canopy of the tree a bit more by reaching inside of it and pruning the limbs at a joint (where they come together) and remove one of them to make the canopy of the tree more open. That will help air circulation a critical factor for disease control. In some cases, it can remove disease problems when humidity and air movement are factors. Secondly, after the canopy is more open, I would look at the damaged areas. If you bend the branches that remain you can determine if it is an insect or disease problem. The insects will weaken the branches just below the damaged areas and break. Diseases will not unless the area is dead. Look for insect damage or disease problems just below the dead or dying areas. Sorry, but there may not be any chemicals of use. Just plant management or wait for a change in the weather.

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