Q. You mentioned that
citrus trees are often grafted. Are full size trees grafted like dwarf trees?
Do I need to remove anything from these grafts? The only tree that really
produced was a grapefruit while my orange and tangerine, produced very little
over a span of 9 years. They flowered in the spring and work protected from
wind and freezing temperatures. Will I have more success in getting fruit from
full size trees?
citrus trees are often grafted. Are full size trees grafted like dwarf trees?
Do I need to remove anything from these grafts? The only tree that really
produced was a grapefruit while my orange and tangerine, produced very little
over a span of 9 years. They flowered in the spring and work protected from
wind and freezing temperatures. Will I have more success in getting fruit from
full size trees?
 |
| suckers coming from the rootstock |
A. All citrus bought from commercial
nurseries are grafted with another tree. This grafting gives it a different set
of roots. This new set of roots is called the rootstock. Most fruit trees are
not intentionally grafted to rootstocks to dwarf the tree. But some dwarfing
can result from rootstocks that are not terribly fast growers. If the rootstock
dwarfs the tree, it should be mentioned on the label.
nurseries are grafted with another tree. This grafting gives it a different set
of roots. This new set of roots is called the rootstock. Most fruit trees are
not intentionally grafted to rootstocks to dwarf the tree. But some dwarfing
can result from rootstocks that are not terribly fast growers. If the rootstock
dwarfs the tree, it should be mentioned on the label.
There are five major citrus rootstocks, each with
different characteristics that benefit the tree. A citrus rootstock may be
added because of soil problems, disease issues, dry soils or survival during freezing
temperatures. Knowing the type of rootstock can be extremely important to
commercial growers with a certain set of growing problems.
different characteristics that benefit the tree. A citrus rootstock may be
added because of soil problems, disease issues, dry soils or survival during freezing
temperatures. Knowing the type of rootstock can be extremely important to
commercial growers with a certain set of growing problems.
Nurseries that buy citrus to sell in the Las Vegas market
usually focus on rootstocks that survive freezing temperatures. A little of
this tolerance to cold temperatures is passed on to the tree itself.
usually focus on rootstocks that survive freezing temperatures. A little of
this tolerance to cold temperatures is passed on to the tree itself.
 |
| bud union on fruit tree making a dogleg |
Look at the base of your citrus tree trunk. You will see
a “dogleg” or bend (or noticeably swollen) where the two trees were grafted together
at a very young age. Any shoots growing at or below this “dogleg”, called
suckers, must be removed since this growth will not give you desirable fruit or
benefit the tree in any way.
Remove suckers now and continue to remove them as soon as
you see them. If you remove them when they are very young, they will break away
easily from the tree. Don’t wait or let them get older or they will be more
difficult to remove.
you see them. If you remove them when they are very young, they will break away
easily from the tree. Don’t wait or let them get older or they will be more
difficult to remove.
Older trees stop producing suckers from the rootstock if
you start removing them early, when the tree is young. But if the top is killed
from freezing temperatures, the rootstock will start suckering, even from older
trees, and produce a vigorous new tree from or below the dogleg. It looks pretty
but this “new” tree will have very poor quality fruit.
you start removing them early, when the tree is young. But if the top is killed
from freezing temperatures, the rootstock will start suckering, even from older
trees, and produce a vigorous new tree from or below the dogleg. It looks pretty
but this “new” tree will have very poor quality fruit.
Many citrus flower and begin fruiting at the same time we
have freezing temperatures. If your citrus is in a warm, protected spot you
have a better chance of getting fruit. You can protect them with lights,
blankets, burlap, etc. but if the temperature and wind are bad enough,
protection will not guarantee fruit and a lack of damage. The tree may require
temperatures of 20 – 25° F for damage to occur. However, all flowers and fruit
are killed at 30 – 32° F regardless of the temperatures required for tree
damage to occur.
Citrus is “iffy” in
this climate. Some years you may have fruit, other years you may not. Some
years they may freeze to the ground and other years sail through the winter
without damage. This is the nature of our climate and growing citrus here.