Q. Back in January you had an article about Apricot trees
and you mentioned cutting back excessively long growth over 18-24 inches when it is growing. I
planted an apricot a couple of years ago and this year it is growing like crazy
with many branches now exceeding 18 inches and still growing. Would you recommend continuing to cut back
excessively long growth and throughout the summer if necessary?
and you mentioned cutting back excessively long growth over 18-24 inches when it is growing. I
planted an apricot a couple of years ago and this year it is growing like crazy
with many branches now exceeding 18 inches and still growing. Would you recommend continuing to cut back
excessively long growth and throughout the summer if necessary?
A. When fruit trees are growing like crazy some of it can
be part of their genetics and some can be caused by management. Some fruit
trees are naturally more vigorous than others. Fruit trees are also affected by
the type of rootstock they are grafted to. For example, the variety Katy
apricot is much more vigorous than the variety Gold Kist when grown on on the
same rootstock. Gold Kist is more restrained in its growth and tends to stay
smaller.
be part of their genetics and some can be caused by management. Some fruit
trees are naturally more vigorous than others. Fruit trees are also affected by
the type of rootstock they are grafted to. For example, the variety Katy
apricot is much more vigorous than the variety Gold Kist when grown on on the
same rootstock. Gold Kist is more restrained in its growth and tends to stay
smaller.
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| Young peach requiring summer pruning |
Growth is also be affected by management. Applying too
much fertilizer or watering too often can produce excessive growth. Growth is
good. Excessive growth is not because it has to be pruned out and that’s
wasted energy by you and by the tree.
much fertilizer or watering too often can produce excessive growth. Growth is
good. Excessive growth is not because it has to be pruned out and that’s
wasted energy by you and by the tree.
Summer pruning is a dwarfing technique used to help
restrain the growth of fruit trees. Fruit trees have stored energy held in
reserve through the winter. Trees “invest” this stored energy into
new growth in the spring. Vigorous trees invest more of this energy into growth
than trees with restrained growth.
restrain the growth of fruit trees. Fruit trees have stored energy held in
reserve through the winter. Trees “invest” this stored energy into
new growth in the spring. Vigorous trees invest more of this energy into growth
than trees with restrained growth.
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| Young fruit tree requiring summer pruning because of excessive new growth. Summer pruning only removes some of the new growth, not older wood. |
Summer pruning in our climate is done during the months
of late March, April and perhaps the beginning of May depending on the weather
and the type of tree and its growth. When summer pruning, new growth that is
undesirable is removed from the trees after the tree has made its
“investment” in this growth. This robs the tree of stored energy that
might be used for excessive growth.
of late March, April and perhaps the beginning of May depending on the weather
and the type of tree and its growth. When summer pruning, new growth that is
undesirable is removed from the trees after the tree has made its
“investment” in this growth. This robs the tree of stored energy that
might be used for excessive growth.
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| Fruit tree restrained after summer pruning |
There are two types of pruning cuts. One is total removal
of a new shoot (thinning cuts) and the other is cutting excessively long
growth, shorter (heading cuts). Total removal of a new shoot opens the canopy
of the tree and reduces excessive shading. Cutting long growth shorter creates
three new shoots from a single cut. Three shoots created by one cut increases
shade created by the canopy.
of a new shoot (thinning cuts) and the other is cutting excessively long
growth, shorter (heading cuts). Total removal of a new shoot opens the canopy
of the tree and reduces excessive shading. Cutting long growth shorter creates
three new shoots from a single cut. Three shoots created by one cut increases
shade created by the canopy.
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| Upright, vertical growth is usually not desirable in fruit trees. This kind of growth tends to produce lots of leaves and twigs and very little fruit. This type of growth should be totally removed with thinning cuts. |
This second type of cut, heading cut, also
encourages the development of short shoots along the cut branch. These short
shoots begin to flower and produce fruit often times during the next season.
These short shoots are called “fruiting spurs”. Cutting back
excessively long growth to about 18 inches restrains the tree and improves
fruit production closer to the trunk.
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| Heading cuts are made anywhere along a branch just above a bud that is pointed outward. |
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| The result of a heading cut (near my thumb) is seen next year when bud below the cut begin to grow. One cut can result in three to five new shoots. I refer to heading cuts sometimes as “thickening cuts”. |
What to do? Totally remove (thinning cut) new, long
shoots that are 100% vertical. These shoots are sometimes called “water
sprouts”. Shoots that grow vigorously and vertically upward are not good
fruit producers. This type of growth normally produces all shoots and leaves,
no flowers.
shoots that are 100% vertical. These shoots are sometimes called “water
sprouts”. Shoots that grow vigorously and vertically upward are not good
fruit producers. This type of growth normally produces all shoots and leaves,
no flowers.
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| Undesirable succulent new growth can be pulled from the tree and does not need to be cut if it is done early enough. Pulling new growth from trees, rather than cutting, reduces the amount of regrowth. |
New shoots that grow vertically downward are also poor
fruit producers. These should be removed as well (thinning cut). The best fruit
producers are shoots that grow upward at a 45° angle; halfway between vertical
and horizontal. Remove these shoots only if they are crowding or crossing other
shoots. If they are excessively long (24 inches or longer) cut them back along
the shoot leaving behind about 12 to 18 inches of new growth. This single cut
of an excessively long shoot restrains the size of the tree and helps produce
side shoots or spurs that will eventually flower and fruit.
fruit producers. These should be removed as well (thinning cut). The best fruit
producers are shoots that grow upward at a 45° angle; halfway between vertical
and horizontal. Remove these shoots only if they are crowding or crossing other
shoots. If they are excessively long (24 inches or longer) cut them back along
the shoot leaving behind about 12 to 18 inches of new growth. This single cut
of an excessively long shoot restrains the size of the tree and helps produce
side shoots or spurs that will eventually flower and fruit.