Chaparral or Cleveland Sage Good Choice for Desert Landscapes
Chaparral or Cleveland Sage Good Choice for Desert Landscapes Read More »
Q. My tomatoes are wilting. I don’t think I am over watering or under watering them. Besides they like water, don’t they? Fertilizers like this 6 – 20 – 20 make a good starter fertilizer because of its high phosphorus content (middle 20) and relatively low nitrogen content (6), A. Sometimes we see vegetables like tomatoes wilt during midday when it is hot and the plant roots cannot supply the water needed by its leaves. The plant recovers (stops wilting) during the cooler part of the day. About 40% of the water needed by plants comes from the top 25% of its root system. Plants wilt midday particularly if the size and depth of its roots are inadequate compared to its top. When first transplanting tomato plants into the ground, bury the roots about 3 to 4 inches below the surface of amended garden soil. This means digging the hole for the transplant 3 to 4 inches deeper than the container. Before planting, remove enough of the bottom leaves so these leaves are not buried in the soil. Ideally, wait 24 hours after removing the leaves before planting. It is best if fresh damage to the stem made by removing leaves is not below ground. Once the roots are placed this deep, amended soil fills the planting hole and is watered in. Amended soil should contain fresh compost and a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number). Tomatoes are somewhat unique in the vegetable world because they will grow new roots from the portion of the stem underground. Horse bedding made from pine shavings makes a very good surface mulch for vegetables because it decomposes easily at the end of a growing season. This type of planting technique provides for a deeper and larger root system capable of supplying more water and nutrients to the plant. This can be particularly important with home gardeners who tend to “push” the growth of their tomato plants with heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizers. A word of caution. The soil used when planting deep must be amended so that it drains easily. Mulches applied to the soil surface help to reduce wilting. These surface mulches should easily decompose in soil used for growing vegetables. Personally, I prefer horse bedding made from wood shavings to most other types of mulches. It decomposes easily in the soil at the end of a growing season and contains no weed seed. Other types of mulches include straw and shredded paper. I have shifted to horse bedding because it is usually cheaper and works better than straw. The one I’m using right now I’m getting from Viragrow in Las Vegas and runs about seven or eight dollars for a 4 cubic foot bag. I take handfuls of this and drop it on either side of my transplants so it covers the soil with about a 2 inch layer of horse bedding. The horse bedding is pine shavings and it decomposes very easily into garden soil at the end of a growing season which straw does not do as easily. It does not blow easily either. Hopefully you amended your soil to encourage deeper rooting. Garden soils should be amended each year with about a 1 to 2 inch layer of compost and double dug 6 to 8 inches deep. I would try the horse bedding and see if that helps.
Tomato Wilting During Midday Resolved at Planting Time Read More »
Q. I took a sample leaf from my petunias into the nursery. They have little black spots on the leaf. I was told it was inch worm and to flood the pot and look for the worm. I haven’t found it and I’m afraid it will spread if I get more plants. What can I do? A. This is tobacco budworm. Spray with either Bt (Dipel or Thuricide) or Spinosad. Follow the label directions. Repeat sprays when necessary. These feed on the flower buds and prevent flowering. You can also use a conventional spray such as Sevin insecticide if that does not work. Do not use Sevin on plants that are in bloom. You can read more in depth here http://californiaagriculture.ucanr.edu/landingpage.cfm?article=ca.v046n04p7& fulltext=yes
Petunias Not Flowering? Read More »
Viragrow Delivers! : Blossom End Rot Common on Tomatoes Now: The blossom end of the tomatoes or pepper fruit, not the stem end, has a black spot on it Blossom end rot of tomato and pepper are commo…
Viragrow Delivers! : Blossom End Rot Common on Tomatoes Now Read More »
Q. I hope you can tell me what this tree is. It is in my friends yard in the Red Rock area. A. This tree looks like, to me, like a Golden Rain Tree. We used to see a lot more planted in the Las Vegas area perhaps 20 to 30 years ago. With the explosion of so-called desert landscaping and the use of more trees native to the American deserts, we see fewer of these types of trees planted. This tree is more common in colder climates, particularly in Colorado and Utah and Northern Nevada. It will do a little bit better if it is not planted in extreme hot locations here such as South or westerly exposures. Koelreuteria paniculata Is the scientific name or Latin name if you want to Google it You can get some more information here: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1744.html http://selectree.calpoly.edu/treedetail.lasso?rid=779 Water use of this tree is not particularly high. I would put it around the same as most of our ash trees of a similar size. It is a good tree for our climate but it should be placed in the medium water use area of a mini oasis landscape or hydrozone. Because of its size it’s a suitable tree for single-story homes. It is deciduous so it is also suitable for summer shade. No particular landscape problems of any merit. No particular insect or disease problems. A very nice medium-sized tree In the arid and desert Western United States. In the eastern United States where there is more rainfall it is considered to be invasive and people are warned about planting it. This would not be the case in our desert climate unless you are close to open waterways.
What Is This Tree with Yellow Flowers? Read More »
Q. I have a canary Island date palm that actually looks like it’s dying, or at least the fronds are. If you look closely even the fronds towards the center appear to be drying out. Have you ever seen anything like this and can anything be done? Canary Island Date Palm with Fronds Turning Brown A. Usually when you see this kind of thing going on in palms it is most likely water related. Like so many times it’s either too much or too little water. When we’re talking about too much, it’s not giving it too much water in a single application, it is giving it water too frequently and the soil does not dry out between irrigations. These types of palms can use a fair amount of water so if they are in a desert landscaping they really need to get a lot in one application. A lot of water meaning 50 or 60 gallons in one irrigation. They perform really well in a lawn or surrounded by other high water use plants. These are oasis plants, not true desert plants. But keep in mind, they do not like soils that are held constantly wet. Possible, but less likely, are disease or insect problems. There is a disease problem that can attack the central bud at the top of the trunk, weakening it and eventually killing the tree. If this is the problem, there is not much you can do but wait it out and hope for recovery. There is an insect called the giant palm borer that can attack the trunk of the tree, weakening it and eventually killing it. You would see holes in the trunk of the tree about half an inch in diameter. These are the exit holes that the adult beetle has flown from. I would concentrate on whether the tree is getting not enough water or is being watered too often. If you suspect it might be a lack of water, flood the area under the tree with the hose once a week over the next month to see if you can get it to recover. If the irrigation system is coming on several times during the week you might consider you are watering it too often, keeping the too soil wet. Give it more water during irrigation but do it less often.
Canary Island Palm Fronds Dying Read More »
picture of “cotton” on pine submitted Q. I was hoping you could identify what is happening on our Mondale pines. We live on Mt. Charleston at 5000 feet and after the forest fire and flood we planted 7 Modale pines along our property. They made it through the 1st summer and winter and have grown nicely but in the last month or so have developed a cotton on the tips of the limbs. We water about 9 gallons per tree about 3 to 4 times a week. They are not dropping any needles but we would rather be proactive than reactive and we do not know if this is normal growth behavior A. This cotton on the end of the limbs is the natural color of the buds on the ends of shoots and branches as they expand into new growth. The white color or cotton as you call it are the sheaths that enclose the bottom of the new needles as they expand. The buds first expand and grow longer and wider. Depending on the health of the tree, this expansion can be fairly short, an inch to an inch and a half or quite long, perhaps up to 4 inches. In this stage they are called “candles” because they resemble a small thin candle at the end of the branch. Pines are somewhat unique in that all of the needles of the new growth are contained in this candle. Pine tree candlesbefore they expand The amount of new growth and how dense the canopy is can be managed by breaking these candles with your fingers. Do not cut them or you will damage the needles emerging from the candle. Pine candle before it expands If you want to keep the tree smaller, you would break about half of the candle off when it emerges. This removes half of the new growth that can develop and causes more side branching to occur, thus making the canopy more dense This is a handy management tool if you are using these trees for screening or windbreaks. So what I’m saying is not to be alarmed, this is a normal for this tree.
Cotton on New Growth of Pine Normal Read More »
Q. I have a 23-year-old ash on a drip system with 10, five gallon per hour emitters watered twice per week for 30 minutes. It is located on a southern exposure and planted in a rock mulch. It has a drip system. The tree has begun to lose leaves and limbs are dying. Is the tree just old or am I doing something wrong? Ash tree showing die back. This is not the tree mentioned here. A. You are watering this tree about 50 gallons a week if all the emitters are working properly. As hot weather is upon us, I don’t believe that this will be enough water to support this tree. That is probably enough emitters for that tree if they are spaced 2 to 3 feet apart under the canopy of the tree. If the emitters are grouped too closely together much of that water will be wasted. You want to wet about half the area under the canopy of the tree each time you water to a depth of 18 to 24 inches. Instead of just placing emitters under the canopy of the tree, an alternative method is to place other plants under the canopy that require water as well. I believe there are several advantages to the tree in doing this. Ash decline May 1st is usually the critical time when we increase the frequency of applied water from once a week (beginning the first week of February) to twice a week. Unfortunately a couple of the ash tree varieties have been developing this kind of problem since before I arrived in the Valley in 1984. I remember during the mid-1980s I was called out to look at some very large Modesto ash trees near downtown North Las Vegas. These ash trees were on city property and surrounded by turfgrass or lawns that were in very good condition. The trees had leaves which were curling up and dying as well as branch dieback. Ash decline will kill the branches of ash trees. If the trees are not pruned and maintained properly these trees will become a safety hazard. This ash tree limb from an ash tree with ash decline broke from the tree and hit this house during a mild wind storm. The plant pathologist for the state of Nevada and I sent samples to pathology labs looking for some answers. It first came back as a disease called ash yellows but it was later found that this diagnosis was incorrect by the same laboratory. The landscape contractor I was working with, Nanu Tomiyasu, had tried fertilizers, increasing the amount of water to the tree even though it was in a lawn and nothing seemed to help. He was desperate for answers. Dieback occurring on fantex ash Fast forward now to 2015. This disease on ash, first found on Modesto ash, has been found on other ash varieties like Arizona ash that have been introduced into the Valley since that time. Plant pathologist from the University of Arizona has acknowledged this disease and written about it http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1124/ calling it Arizona Ash Decline and the University of California has termed it Ash Dieback. There are some assumptions about this disease but everyone seems to agree that it is not controllable and eventually the tree will become a hazard and should be removed as the disease progresses and limbs die more and more. Increasing the fertilizer and water the plant receives will not help. I have no evidence for this but I assume that this disease is transmitted by insects such as the Apache cicada which is common here or whiteflies. Putting ash trees in less stressful environments such as lawns or supplying enough water to the tree roots, seems to help prolong its health. I am telling people that this tree will be short-lived in our environment, 10 to 20 years, until this problem is resolved. They should not be confused with dieback of limbs when older, established ash trees are no longer in lawns but part of a landscape retrofit to desert landscaping. In my opinion, this will shorten the trees life. Before the tree becomes a hazard, please remove it. If this is ash decline there is nothing you can do to save it.
Ash Dieback or Ash Decline? They Both Kill the Tree. Read More »
Q. I have 20 year old trumpet vines which I have been trying to remove to establish a new garden. The vines have been dug out as best as possible but as I try to establish a new garden I find shoots coming up from roots so deep I simply cannot remove them. Is there a way to completely eliminate the deepest roots from the trumpet vines without poisoning the ground? Trumpet vine or trumpet creeper growing in someone’s property and draping over the wall A. Trumpet vine is considered “invasive” in some parts of the country. This is usually in places where there is enough rainfall to support their growth without irrigation.Needs water to survive. It is very unlikely to survive in the hot Mojave Desert without irrigation. However it could become established along Lake Mead, the Colorado River, Virgin River, Warm Springs area and along desert washes. Look here to check on it’s invasiveness The only “organic” method of killing trumpet vine roots is to totally cut off the top of the plant and force it to “sprout” wherever it has spread underground. As this new growth emerges, you will physically remove it with a shovel or hoe. By doing this repeatedly and as soon as new growth emerges, you will eventually exhaust the root system. As you have already guessed, this will require a lot of diligence on your part. My experience with plants such as these, exhausting the root system by physically removing new growth can take you two to three years. Another method is to leave the “mother plant” and dig up suckers as they emerge. This helps direct the growth to the mother plant and suppresses the development of sucker growth in new areas. The plant will slowly “give up” growing into new areas as it ages. There are chemicals that you can use to help you kill the roots. None of them will contaminate the soil for any length of time. They ARE chemicals so if these chemicals land on the soil surface there will be residue left behind but it would be minimal. If you are careful in applying these chemicals, none of these need to reach the soil. This method relies on applying or dabbing an herbicide on fresh cuts made to the plant. The plant is cut back and herbicides are applied to these fresh cuts with a paintbrush. This technique relies on herbicides to replace a shovel and a hoe. Herbicides used for this include “dandelion killers” that contain dicamba or triclopyr. You will have to look at the ingredients on the label and the label should state that they can be used for this purpose. The label may call them “dandelion killer”, “brush killer”, etc. Roundup is also used for this job and applied in the same manner. Follow the same dilution that is recommended on the label as a spray. Repeat applications will be necessary because the plant will respond by sending up new growth in different locations. So be prepared to follow up by cutting back in growth and reapplying the chemicals.
Removing 20-year-old Trumpet Vine Is Not Easy! Read More »