Xtremehorticulture

Fireblight Causes Problems with Fruit Trees if Missed Earlier

 Q. I came back from vacation and my ‘Gala’ apple tree branch was dead.  The tree also has some black spotting under the bark. I’m hoping it’s not damage from fire blight.  Both pictures are fire blight in ‘Gala’ apple tree with an older infection. As this reader suggested, the earlier symptoms were not noticed and the bacterial disease has now invaded the trunk. Most likely the trees will either die or may serve as a host for further infection of trees.  A.  I looked at the picture you sent of your fruit tree, and it looks like older fire blight disease that escaped earlier detection and is now in the trunk of your tree. Fire blight is a serious disease that is highly contagious for many apples. It’s more damaging to some apples like ‘Pink Lady’ than others such as your ‘Gala’.  It’s particularly damaging to all Asian pears.  It can be damaging to some European pears, like ‘Bartlett’ and others, such as ‘Keiffer’, it doesn’t seem to affect much here. This is fire blight disease on a recently planted ‘Bartlett’ pear. Sometimes this disease can come in on nursery plants from “dirty” growers. It is damaging to some ornamentals like pyracantha and some cotoneasters in the rose family. The varieties of these plants may show differences. It just depends on the genetics of the plant combined with the genetics of the disease. When I saw this disease in the spring it was heavily into Asian pears, some European pears and many apples and quince. What gave it away then was the early spring growth, which was black, hooked and had the presence of sap. Fire Blight control is normally through removal of the infected limbs 10 to 12 inches below where the infection is seen. What gave it away to me now are the dark cankers (black spotting) on the trunks of your trees and also the presence of sap.  The “sap” is what is contagious and can cause it to spread.  The dark cankers are probably from earlier fireblight infestations. Once this particular disease gets into the trunk the tree usually dies. If the tree continues to look bad or worsens, I would cut these trees down and get the pruning off of the property. You cannot use this wood for wood chips or anything near plants or it can reinfest susceptible plants.

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Soil Amendments and Backfilling Fruit Trees

Q. I’m planting new fruit trees this year. I’ve noticed there seems to be a consensus that backfilling should be done with only native soil, without any amendments. However, is there an exception in Las Vegas where the soil is exceptionally poor? Planting fruit trees in Las Vegas directly in amended desert soil. A. Yes there is, and you are correct. Our desert soils normally need amending at planting time but they are full of nutrients if they are not poisonous to plants. If you watch online videos or get information from outside sources, they may tell you it’s a waste of money to improve the soil at the time of planting. They may be correct in other locations but under our desert conditions it usually isn’t true. Planting 3000 fruit trees directly in amended desert soil at an orchard in Las Vegas, Nevada. In cases cited by outside sources, the soil already had enough organics in it that it made no difference; 2% organic content or higher. The research at Oklahoma State University during the 1970s clearly showed that no amendment to the soil was needed and mixing organics such as compost into the soil at the time of planting was a “waste of money”. This original research was repeated at Arizona State University where the researchers used an agricultural soil with a similar organic content; 2% or more. The researchers came to the same conclusion; the addition of organic matter (compost) was a waste of money. Ipso facto, no soil amendments are needed! Very practical original research often proves what we already know It is common knowledge that if the soil has an organic content more than 2% that no organic addition is needed and it’s a waste of money to mix in additional compost when planting trees and shrubs. What about soils with organic content much lower than 2%. Is organic matter still needed? That research is never been done. Many of our Mojave desert soils have an organic content much much lower than 1%. How do you know if your soil has an organic content above 2%?  Send it to a soil testing lab (pay $70 and wait two weeks) where they can accurately measure the organic content of your soil and tell you its percentage. Or you can look at its color and approximately judge for yourself. The color of a soil darkens as the organic content increases. If your soil has a light tan color, the color of “creamy coffee” then it has a very low organic content; probably less than 2%. You can also do a “jar test” of your soil. The organics of a layer (if they are large enough) will float to the surface of the water. Soil jar test

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My Japanese Privet Died

Q. I have two tree form privets; one has nearly died, and the second looks to be withering at the top.  I have 8 bush form pivots that seem relatively healthy, and 2 that have completely died with one trying to bounce back from near death.  All the trees and bushes are in the same area getting the same amount of water. There just doesn’t seem to be a reason why some die and others thrive right next to each other.  Japanese privet dieback. Jp is a mesic plant not suitable for rock, dry or very hot locations. A. First of all, Japanese privet, like its name suggests, is not suitable for the desert. It’s suitable for Japan and similar climates. Whenever we take a plant and grow it outside of its “comfort zone” (parts of Japan and China) we will have problems unless we take these problem areas into consideration. Plants, unlike animals, cannot move from an inhospitable place to a more hospitable place. We can, as all animals can, because we have legs. For this reason, it’s location, where it’s planted, is extremely important. Japanese privet can handle the hot temperatures of southern Nevada but not dry locations. It does very well in lawns in Las Vegas.            Do You Know What Will Happen Tomorrow? You are looking at this plant at one point in time. You don’t know what will happen to this plant in the future; all you can do is look at its current situation and what happened to it in the past.             Japanese privet will do okay in the desert if it receives afternoon shade, enough water and soil improvement; just like Japan. Japanese privet is what we call a “mesic” plant and must receive adequate amounts water on a regular basis. Secondly, Japanese privet performs well with amended soil and needs this soil improved on a regular basis to survive. For this reason, it doesn’t like to be surrounded by rock mulch when the amendments run out. Thirdly, it doesn’t like direct desert sunlight all day long. Particularly if surrounded by rock.

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NPS (Non Point Source) Grants Until September 23

    $900,000 in grants now available to protect and enhance water quality in Nevada   The Nevada Division of Environmental Protection’s (NDEP) Bureau of Water Quality Planning is pleased to announce that $900,000 in grant funding is now available for projects that prevent or control water pollution from “nonpoint sources,” a leading cause of water quality impairment in Nevada. Funded by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), these “Clean Water Act” grants are open to the public and Tribal governments, nonprofit organizations, and educational institutions throughout Nevada. A non-federal match (cash and/or in-kind) of at least 50 percent of the total project cost is required.   Examples of projects eligible for funding include:  ·    Water quality improvement projects; ·    Implementation of Best Management Practices to protect water quality;  ·    Public education programs aimed at reducing NPS pollution; and ·    Identified projects from an approved watershed-based plan and/or Total Maximum Daily Load (TMDL) implementation plan. Applications will be accepted from 8:00 a.m., August 15th, 2022 until 5:00 p.m., September 23, 2022   Applicants unsure of eligibility of proposals are invited to submit a Pre-application. Pre-applications are due by 5:00 p.m., September 23rd, 2022, but are not required Nonpoint source water pollution impacts Nevada’s water resources when rain, snowmelt and irrigation water flows over developed or disturbed land, carrying with it pollutants like oil, sediment, pesticides, bacteria and other debris. This polluted water makes its way into Nevada’s waterways either directly or through storm drains, and can harm the overall water quality of area lakes, rivers, and groundwater.  Nevada 319(h) Nonpoint Source Grant Program   For Questions Contact Jason Kuchnicki [email protected] (O) 775-687-9450

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Buy Local as Much as Possible

National Farmers Market Week 2022  USDA Secretary Proclaims 2022 National Farmers Market Week Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack proclaimed August 7-13 as National Farmers Market Week to champion the direct-to-consumer producers, market managers, and customers that make their communities come alive during market days. Farmers markets have great importance in the larger goals of USDA’s Food System Transformation framework, and continue to be spaces for community engagement and education. Tricia Kovacs, Deputy Administrator of the Transportation and Marketing Program within the Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS), discusses this in her new blog post. Throughout the week, AMS will feature social media and blog content to highlight the projects and successes of local and regional farmers markets. Follow @USDA_AMS on Twitter and Instagram to stay up to date. Grab those reusable bags and see you at the market! Read the Full Proclamation Celebrate National Farmers Market Week at the USDA Farmers Market The USDA Farmers Market is hosting a homecoming-themed celebration for National Farmers Market week on August 12, 2022 from 9:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m. In addition to the more than 20 vendors that attend the market each week, there will be a variety of exhibitors from federal agencies and community organizations focused on local food and community connections. There will also be a recipe demonstration at the market’s VegU tent, activities and prizes for kids at the Produce Pals tent, musical performances, and more. Stop by to celebrate the positive impact farmers markets make in communities across the country! Visit the USDA Farmers Market Take Advantage of USDA’s Local Food Directories Since its creation in 2010, the Local Food Directories website has transformed over the years to include information that makes it easy for customers to find fresh, local foods through four main outlets. Recent updates have made the directories even easier to use on the go, on your phone or computer. USDA also launched a new directory for agritourism. As the platform continues to grow, check out this blog post for tips on how to navigate this resource, especially during National Farmers Market Week when supporting local markets can be a few clicks away. Visit the Local Food Directories Page Sharing Findings from the National Farmers Market Managers Survey The 2019 National Farmers Market Survey, conducted by USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) and the National Agricultural Statistical Service (NASS), collected data regarding the market practices of managers in 2019 from 10,000 farmers markets. Using trends and statistics found from these efforts, AMS and its cooperative agreement partner, Wheaton College, created five research briefs highlighting results from this survey and sharing insights into the trajectory for farmers markets into the future. For example, did you know that farmers market managers are often volunteers (34%), rather than paid employees of the market (29%). Nationally, 68% of vendors present in 2019 returned from the 2018 season, with more than one-third (37%) of markets experiencing an increase. Additionally, around one-third of farmers markets offered or engaged in at least one food waste and/or conservation program in 2019. For more details on these trends, visit the AMS website for a full set of research findings. Explore the Research Briefs Seeds of Success: Digging into the Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion Program Each month, we’re highlighting the work of Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion grant recipients. Community Foodworks/FRESHFARM Community Foodworks, which later merged with FRESHFARM, received a Farmers Market Promotion Program (FMPP) grant in 2011 to start a farmers market in the Columbia Heights neighborhood of Washington, D.C., an area of the city with limited access to fresh and local produce. After establishing this market, they received an additional FMPP grant in 2014 to expand beyond the neighborhood. They grew their markets and created a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program, building rapport with participating farms and local organizations. In 2017, Community Foodworks applied for a Local Food Promotion Program (LFPP) grant to establish the Pop-Up Food Hub (PUFH) program. Community Foodworks launched this project to purchase produce wholesale from farmers and distribute this food to local organizations directly. This bridged the gap between small producers and community organizations, giving both groups a stable and reliable market, and encouraging more local food options.  FRESHFARM currently is continuing to work on farm to school initiatives with public schools in D.C. and nearby Arlington, Virginia while simultaneously working to increase the number of pick-up sites for individuals to collect their CSA boxes. Read the Full Story Seeds of Success: Where Are They Now? The Agricultural Marketing Service’s (AMS) Seeds of Success highlights accomplishments and lessons learned from Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion Program (FMLFPP) grant recipients. During National Farmers Market Week (August 7-13), we are sharing adaptations and successes of recipients focused on farmers market related projects.    Renaissance Jamestown – Chautauqua County, NY As a direct result of community advocacy, the City of Jamestown City Council passed a resolution in 2020 that ensured annual support of and the allowance for the farmers market to operate on public lands and city-owned parks without costly ‘event’ fees or permits. The FMLFPP grant funds helped promote the awareness and perpetuity of this local market that continues to be a vital support system for low-income communities and regional farmers. Read more about Renaissance Jamestown. Franklin County Farmers Market – Frankfort, KY Like many businesses during the pandemic, the Franklin County Farmers Market adopted a hybrid model offering both online ordering with curbside pickup and traditional in-person sales for the 2021-2022 season. They also partnered with Community Farm Alliance to offer FreshRx, a vegetable prescription program for expectant moms and a voucher program to connect produce vendors with local schools. Read more about Franklin County Farmers Market.   Adelante Mujeres – Forest Grove, OR This non-profit organization provides holistic education and empowerment to low-income Latina women, helping with child nutrition and access to locally grown and culturally appropriate food. Their farmers wanted to be able to sell directly to consumers and as a result, created the Cornelius Farmers Market in 2020 with

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Orange Tree Problems During and Shortly After Rain

Q. What is wrong with my orange tree? It has lots of oranges, but the tips of the trees are dying in some places. Any plants, including this citrus, can have problems after a rain in the desert.  A. Your pictures look like either an insect or disease problem, both I have few skills about. First, I would open the canopy of the tree a bit more by reaching inside of it and pruning the limbs at a joint (where they come together) and remove one of them to make the canopy of the tree more open. That will help air circulation a critical factor for disease control. In some cases, it can remove disease problems when humidity and air movement are factors. Secondly, after the canopy is more open, I would look at the damaged areas. If you bend the branches that remain you can determine if it is an insect or disease problem. The insects will weaken the branches just below the damaged areas and break. Diseases will not unless the area is dead. Look for insect damage or disease problems just below the dead or dying areas. Sorry, but there may not be any chemicals of use. Just plant management or wait for a change in the weather.

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Soil Testing for Homeowners

Should I have my soil tested?  A soil test done by a commercial laboratory like A and L Soil Testing Laboratory in Modesto, California, costs from $60-$75. It’s important that a soil test is submitted to a soil testing laboratory that uses appropriate testing. In other words, if you live in the desert don’t send it to a soil testing laboratory that’s in a wet climate. Sample Soil Test Report for Fruit Trees in the Desert Soil tests are mostly about what fertilizers and soil amendments should be applied to get a desired yield. I was in in the former Soviet Union years ago when a member of Parliament once asked me, “What is the maximum wheat yield in the United States?” I told him, “US farmers don’t maximize yields. They maximize profits.” Soil tests help farmers “maximize their profits”. Soil Chemistry Soil tests are primarily aimed at a “soil’s chemistry” to aid a famers profitability. Soil tests will not tell you why a plant died, or chemicals added to the soil that killed a plant. An agricultural soil test won’t tell you that. Those tests can be done, however, but are much more expensive and requires a consultant to guide you. How Often? What good are soil tests to a homeowner and when should they be done? A serious gardener should submit a soil sample as soon as new property or growing area is purchased. A “first time” soil test establishes a “baseline” and tells you at the beginning what’s adequate about your soil chemistry and what’s missing. After that a soil test is submitted by homeowners about every four or five years to make sure “they are on track” with their fertilizer and soil amendment applications. This is a soil test done by a homeowner. Garbage in, garbage out. I learned a long time ago to be careful sending soil samples in for analysis or doing it yourself. Luckily, this soil test matches what a desert soil sample report might look like. Soil Samples or Sample? Soil tests are a smaller sample of a larger soil sample taken from the top of the soil to the depth plant roots grow. Several smaller samples representing this depth are added together. A very clean five-gallon bucket is used for mixing the larger soil sample so that a smaller sample, a pound or so, can be submitted for testing. Expect results in about a week after they received your sample. If you’re having trouble interpreting them, hire a consultant the first time so that you are taught how to read them.

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Slime Mold Found After or During the Rain

Q. About 2 weeks ago I noticed a strange growth at the base of several different plants. The largest was about 4″x6″ and shaped like a smooth, white, used bar of soap; slightly moist and slippery on the outside and like a semi-hard cheese on the inside. It seemed like it was attached to the soil but was also around the stems and branches that came out of the ground.  It broke into slightly smaller pieces as I worked it out of the soil. What is it and what do I do to remove it? Reader didn’t send a picture. This is slime mold in Las Vegas after a rain. Rain will contribute to their growth when there is a lot of rain. Slime molds are a type of mushroom or fungus. They can come in lots of different colors and forms. A. Without a picture it is difficult to tell but it sounds like it is “slime mold.”  Search it out.  Slime Mold Slime mold is a type of fungus, or mushroom, which does not cause problems for plants. It is what is called a “saprophyte” and feeds on moist or wet dead wood or woody debris. It feeds on the rotting wood below the surface of wet soil. We see that a lot in soils covered in wood chips, or woody compost used for enriching the soil, buried rotting wood in the soil and even dead or dying roots. It is a plant that is a “decomposer.” Use a shovel and pick it up and put it in the garbage so the dog or kids don’t get into it. No other treatment is necessary. One person reported a rash from it so be careful in case you are in this minority.

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Homeowner Forced to Water With a Hose

Q. I have emailed you before about having only one watering zone. Our lemon tree seems to be doing worse every year. With only one irrigation zone unfortunately I am forced to water every day in the summer.  We decided we should water these citrus trees by hand. So, we have two questions please: How much water per watering and how often? Homeowner Forced to Water with a Hose A. Looks like fake grass was installed surrounding the tree. It is too perfect. This may be a problem in future years due to numerous soil problems, primarily air reaching the tree roots and compaction from people walking near it. Pull the fake grass away from the tree to the size of the canopy. It is important that plant roots breathe air. Some types of fake grass are better at that than others. Make sure enough air is getting to plant roots. How To Hand Water Citrus  Start watering this tree now with about fifteen gallons each time (judging its size from your picture). As the tree increases in size it needs more water; probably about every three or four years the area under the tree canopy will need to become bigger to give it this. The tree will max out at about thirty gallons each time it is watered. When an increase in water is needed, remove more grass, to accommodate the amount of water applied. The easiest way to give the tree more water and keep it from falling over will be to increase the size of the area where water is applied to at least half the area of the canopy. Use Moat or Donut This is a basin at the bottom of a fruit tree in North Las Vegas. Both basin and bubbler..which this is..and drip irrigation are both efficient at this. Use a moat or donut shaped basin around the tree for filling each time with a hose. The basin, and the inside being flat, will hold water long enough to get it deeper in the soil. If the tree does not have a moat or donut around it, it is difficult to put enough water in that spot to wet the soil eighteen inches deep each time. Just putting a hose on it will not work unless you water with a sprinkler or let the hose run slow a long time. Using a moat or donut will fill the basin with water in about ten minutes or less and keep it contained.

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HOA Removing Bay Laurel Trees

Q. Our sweet bay laurel trees face East and are watered by a drip irrigation system on a separate line for trees only. Obviously, these trees are not doing well. They were originally 24” boxed trees planted in 2013. Our HOA contends they are close to the end of their lives, and they will be removed. Any ideas? Bay Laurel Trees HOA Wants to Remove A. From the picture you sent (above) the leaves exposed to the heat of the sun are scorching along the edges. This means not enough water is getting to them either because there is not enough water supplied to the trees or there is damage to the trunk or limbs. Bay laurel trees struggle when temperatures are very hot (over 105F) and there is very low humidity. Particularly if it is windy. They are treated like desert trees, but they are not. They are a “mesic” tree, not “xeric”, coming originally from the Mediterranean area of the world, and not a true desert tree like the Palo Verdes, Desert Willow, Texas Mountain Laurel, or any trees native to our Southwest deserts. Big trees use more water than smaller trees As trees get larger, they require more water. As these trees get larger more drip emitters must be added to give them the water they need. You could increase the number of minutes but then everything on that “line” or valve would get an increase in water as well. There are other alternatives but adding more drip emitters is the most common. I would guess trees would need more water applied (change in the water applied) every three or four years until they reach maturity. It is better to add drip emitters to those plants getting larger than just adding more time; either is a challenge for HOAs as the cost of water increases and they are still trying to contain costs. Ways to Reduce Trees Need for Water There are three ways to reduce their need for water; 1) reduce their size as well as and other large plants, 2) reduce the total number of trees and shrubs, and 3) change over to desert native plants like I mentioned above. Doing any of the three does not reduce water used. Water used, irrigation, is a human landscape decision. Changes in irrigation management, as well as monitoring water applied to the soil, must be done by the landscapers. In the desert all plants use water. Think of ways to beautify your landscape that does not include water. We cannot have a landscape full of trees and shrubs in the Mojave Desert. It doesn’t make sense. Plants must have a purpose if they get water.

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