Xtremehorticulture

Leafcutter Bees Will Probably Use Houses for Blue Mason Bees

Q. Someone gave us a Mason bee house to use. I saw in a July 2011 post on your blog that there really aren’t mason bees in the Las Vegas area but there are leaf cutter bees. Do you think the leafcutters would use the Mason bee house? I know leaf cutters stuff the hole with leaves so the fact that the Mason bee holes are larger might not be an issue. A. I think the holes will be fine. The leafcutter bees will take holes up to 3/8 inch easily and I think mason bee holes are about 5/16 inch which should be fine for both bees.             Most people don’t know the difference but be delighted that local bees are using it. Have fun with it! House for leafcutter bees

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Artificial Grass Not Damaging Lemon Tree

Q. My lemon tree is about five years old and it has a lot of flowers and tiny lemons.  The tree looks healthy but I have noticed the leaves are turning yellow.  I water it every day about ten minutes, six days a week.  We have artificial grass about a foot away around the trunk.  Am I overwatering it or is it the artificial turf the culprit? A. I don’t think the artificial grass has anything to do with it. I suspect that maybe the soil is being kept too moist. The artificial turfgrass may be acting like mulch and keeping the soil wet longer than if it were not covered in anything.             Water deep and infrequently. It should do okay watered twice a week now with about 20 gallons or so each time.             Try getting some iron chelate spray and spray the foliage in the cool morning hours. Add some spreader to the spray to get it to go into the leaves or use some liquid detergent but be careful of store bought liquid detergents. It is possible they can cause some leaf damage if you aren’t careful with them.             You have to spray liquid iron about four times; once every couple of days for four sprays total. Spray until the iron solution drips from the leaves. Make a new batch each time you spray and use the spray fresh each time because of our alkaline water.

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Cold Damage is Different for Different Oleanders

Q. For the past couple of years my oleanders have suffered severe frost damage and slow to recover in the spring. They are all mature plants.  While I was trimming the dead leaves recently, I noticed that the oleanders with red flowers had less damage and were recovering more quickly than the others that have pink flowers. Is this unique to my yard, or have you heard of this from other gardeners? I’m considering removing the ones with pink flowers because they look ratty for so long and not earning their keep. A. The different colors of oleander represent different varieties. And yes, they have different tolerances to cold.             If you are not having luck with one variety, take it out and replace it. The most cold tolerant seem to be the red ones and white ones. I am not saying not to plant other colors or varieties but if you want a sure thing with no cold damage stay with white or red types. Cold damage to oleander.

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Can I Use Chipped Pine for Mulch Around Fruit Trees?

Q. Our neighbor’s pine trees are going to be cut down soon. I would like to use the wood chips from the tree as mulch for our recently planted fruit trees. I remember you recommend 4 inches deep. What are your thoughts on fresh mulch as this? A. Nothing wrong with fresh pine chippings. We provide an assortment of wood chips, fresh, at the orchard for the public. You will have no problems with it. As it is decomposing make sure you give the soil some extra nitrogen amongst the bark and soil. Collectively we call this “Green Waste”. It would normally be taken to landfills where it is a waste of a natural resource. Community mulch pile at the Orchard in North Las Vegas. The mulch is supplied by local tree services like First Choice Tree Service. We exclude palm and mesquite from the mix due to hazards from thorns and poor breakdown of wood like palm with very thick fibrous wood.             Keep any wood mulch away from the trunks of new plants about a foot for the first few years until the bark on the trunk gets woody. If they grind out the stump of the tree with a stump grinder, those are some of the best wood chips. Good luck!

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Smokey Grey Color in Your Lawn Means Water

If you see that smokey, green or grey color in your lawn it is a good sign that the grass is not getting water in those spots. Check for blocked or broken sprinklers in that location. Grey color in lawns is usually from wilting and it is the first stage before it turns brown. Catch it early and run an irrigation cycle to relieve the drought stress then discover the cause. Grey green or smokey color in a lawn is due to lack of water reaching the leaf blades. The leaf blades fold or roll up, depending on the type of grass, and reflect light differently. Regardless, it is time to hit the irrigation button. This is a closeup of that spot and if you could look at individual grass blades you would see that they are no longer open. They either rolled or folded (this is fescue so they rolled) depending on the type of grass. Get water on it immediately and fix the problem. In the top picture this has been a problem for awhile because the spot has already started to turn brown and grass started to die due to drought. Either the spray head is blocked or plugged most likely.

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Don’t Forget to Thin Apples and Pears When Fruit are Small

Apples and pears require aggressive thinning particularly if you did not space your bearing limbs far enough apart.You can still do some summer pruning if the canopy is too dense. Try to think your fruit when they are small. Thinning is not required usually for nut tree, apricots and figs but fruit tree production on many trees will benefit from some thinning to very aggressive thinning. Apple fruit cluster before thinning. The fruit here are small, only about an inch in diameter. See the leaf sizes for comparison. Apples and pears require aggressive thinning particularly if you did not space your bearing limbs far enough apart. Thin so that only one, or at the most two, fruit remain per cluster. Remember it takes 60 plus leaves to support the size and sugars needed for fruit to look and taste delicious. Pears are thinned exactly the same way. Asian pears have to be thinned “harder”, remove more fruit, if you want really large-sized fruit.

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Harvesting Early Can Keep Fruit from the Wind and Hungry Birds

The fruit in the grocery store looks good. But frequently when you taste it the taste does not match the look of goodness that you thought was there. This is why. Ripe fruit is different for the tree than it is to humans. Ripeness to us usually means a color change from green to red, yellow, purple or orange. Taking it a step further, fruit that is ripened fully on the tree will start to be slightly “soft” when squeezed. The bird doesn’t have hands or fingers so they “beak” it and go for the jugular. If the fruit does not taste good to a bird, the bird tries a different fruit or fruit from a different tree. We get really angry when a bird samples several fruits, damaging all of them. Kind of like a child taking a bite out of each fruit you bring home from the store. But a color change can be an indicator to you that harvest time is close. Harvesting a bit early can keep the fruit away from dropping in the wind or from hungry birds. Flora Gold apricot on the tree, very tasty looking and “ripe” from the tree’s point of view. The tree just wants to reproduce.It doesn’t care if you or the bird like the taste of its fruit or not. If the seed is ripe and can germinate, it would just as soon drop the fruit in hopes that the seed will grow. One less mouth to feed. When fruit is very unripe, the seed is not mature enough for good growth, the tree usually will hold on to the fruit unless winds are unbearable. When fruit ripens, the tree holds on to the fruit stronger. Flora Gold apricot at the orchard with Brix of 14 but still tart. I was out at the Orchard on Saturday and tasted some of the apricots that had some good color such as Flora Gold. It develops bright orange-yellow skin with a beautiful blush of red if the fruit develops in the sunlight. A volunteer told me it was not ready yet. Ah yes, ready for him, but was the tree or were the birds ready? The fruit had good color so I knew the fruit was close. That’s when you can pick the fruit, (peaches, plums, apricots) the fruit will still develop some good flavor off of the tree. Refractometer for measuring sugar content. I measured the sugar content with a refractometer. One volunteer guessed 7 Brix and another, with more experience with a refractometer, guessed 14. The latter one was right on. It was 14 Brix. By the way, when apricot hits a Brix of 16 it is considered “Excellent”. The less experienced volunteer mixed up his taste buds confusing tartness and sugar content. You see, sugars start developing from carbohydrates in the fruit pretty early, even before color change, but the high acidity masks its sweetness. If you rely on your taste buds, you will say it has low sugar content. Birds use color to indicate ripeness as well, along with a sense of smell and, of course, the beak test. If you want to stay ahead of the birds and fruit drop from the wind, harvest fruit that can develop off of the tree (apricots, peaches, plums NOT cherries, grapes or figs) when you see a color change in the fruit.

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Gopher Plant Adds Interest to a Desert Landscape

Gopher plant adds a lot of interest to an otherwise boring desert landscape due to color and texture during bloom and even after bloom. Use it as a specimen (planted alone as the center of attention) or in masses if you have a large area. In masses, plant them two to three feet apart. When it is flowering (spring and fall) it will draw attention so put it where you want people to go or see. Flower spikes turn brown so you can cut them back to their point of origin when they no longer look attractive or leave them if that’s the kind of thing you like. I asked Andrea Meckley, a Certified Horticulturist with the American Society for Horticultural Science, the most prestigious organization for professional horticulturists in the United States.

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Tomato Transplants Wilted and Died. Disease?

Q. Last weekend I started putting some tomatoes into raised garden beds. I had started these from seed about 8 weeks ago, transplanted them once into 20 oz plastic cups after four weeks, and hardened them off for a week before putting them in the ground. The were 4-6 inches tall. They went into good topsoil and I fertilized them lightly with Miracle Gro for tomatoes. Within about five days they started wilting from the bottom up and two are completely dead. I’ve noticed white lesions on several of the stems. Photos attached. Could this be blight? Is there a chance I overfertilized? I haven’t seen any insects on the plants.  A. I looked at the pics when you sent them and then ruminated about them and finally had a chance to get back to you. My reaction was that something had mechanically damaged the stems of the tomatoes. Mechanical damage can come from insect feeding, abrasion by wind blow sand, chemical sprays that were caustic to the surface tissue. This does not look like any common tomato disease that I am aware of. At this stage in their life tomatoes are so vigorous that diseases would have trouble getting established unless it was from the soil such as using “dirty” unsterilized soil for a seedling mix. But even if that were the case it does not look like one of the common or even less common soil borne disease of tomatoes (Phytophtora, Fusarium, Verticillium, Pythium). The picture looks like the problem “attacked” the plant at the stem a short distance above the soil. One of the pictures shows these “spots” starting a half inch or so above the soil level. You mentioned Miracle Gro. Miracle Gro is a good product but if it were mixed too concentrated and sprayed directly on the plants rather than diluted in water and used as a soil drench it is possible this could be salt damage from the Miracle Gro sprayed directly on the plant. My second guess would be mechanical damage from strong wind with sand and damage from “sandblasting” the stem. If it were from the compost or a soil borne disease of some sort it would start at the soil and work up. Viragrow has had no reports with damage to plants and I have seen none in their demonstration planting beds used at Viragrow. That is my best guess with the pictures and your information.

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I Told You to Spray Your Vegetables!

Here is what to do when protecting your vegetables from insects: 1. Don’t wait for damage to appear. They are there. Count on it. Get ahead of the insect problem. When you see damage, it is usually too late. These are aphids feeding on the underside of an undamaged pepper leaf. Now is the time to control them! 2. Plants that have lower leaves that are shaded and touch the ground, cut them off. Remove any lower leaves that come in contact with the ground. This opens up the plant more, removes hiding places for insects and allows better spray application coverage. The lower leaves of this cabbage plant were removed on the left. The plant on the right still has its lower leaves in contact with the ground. Great place to hide and you cannot spray on the undersides of the leaves. They are shaded anyway so they are not contributing much to the plant anymore. Cut them off! 3. Remove leaves that are shaded on the interior of the plant to create better air movement through the plant, better light penetration and reduce diseases in the process. Thin or remove interior leaves of plants that are too shaded and have too many. Leave fruit shaded to prevent their sunburn. This allows better air movement and reduces disease problems. Fertilize once a month.

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