Xtremehorticulture

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert

Canary Island Date Palm Problems

Leave a Comment / canary island date palm, disease, fertilizer /

Q. I have a Canary Date Palm that developed yellowing leaves last year. I planted this palm about 10 years ago in my landscape. Canary Island Date Palm A. The proper name is Canary Island Date Palm. Eliminate simple possibilities first.  Water and drainage Make sure whatever method you are using to irrigate the tree has not changed because of a broken irrigation line or malfunctioning irrigation emitters. Check the soil around the tree to make sure it’s not still wet before it is irrigated the next time. The soil at four or 5 inches deep should still be starting to dry when you water again. Watering cycles of palms is similar to other large trees on your property and not to other locations like lawns, flowerbeds that require frequent irrigation. Watering palm trees as frequently as you would these locations would be a mistake. Fertilize with a palm fertilizer Palm nutrient deficiencies such as potassium, magnesium or manganese deficiencies can cause yellowing as well. Use a palm tree fertilizer such as Arizona’s Best the next time this palm tree is fertilized. Disease Possibilities There are a couple of disease possibilities that have not yet, to my knowledge, been diagnosed in southern Nevada. Three palm diseases have been noted in Southern California on this Palm. The only disease which causes fronds to yellow on Canary Island Date Palm is Fusarium Wilt. This disease can be spread from tree to tree through pruning tools. Wiping or spraying the cutting blades of pruning tools with at least 70 – 90 % isopropyl alcohol will effectively keep the disease from being spread due to a lack of sanitation to other palms. Anyone pruning these palms should never use dirty tools. Tools should be cleaned with soap and water first and then sanitized before pruning begins.

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USDA Publishes Proposed Organic Livestock Rule

Leave a Comment / organic meat, USDA /

  USDA Publishes Organic Livestock and Poultry Standards Proposed Rule 60-Day Comment Period Opens with Publication Today, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) previewed the Organic Livestock and Poultry Standards (OLPS) proposed rule in the Federal Register. With this publication, USDA proposes requirements for organic poultry and livestock living conditions, care, transport, and slaughter. “This proposed Organic Livestock and Poultry Standards rule demonstrates USDA’s strong commitment to America’s organic producers,” said Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack. “We encourage producers, processors, and consumers to submit written comments about the rule so that we can work together to create a fairer, more competitive, and transparent food system.” “This rulemaking is an opportunity to ensure consumers’ expectations align with the enforced organic standards, building trust across the supply chain and leveling the playing field for producers,” said Under Secretary for Marketing and Regulatory Programs Jenny Lester Moffitt. “With this proposed rule, USDA is seeking to establish and clarify clear standards for organic livestock and poultry production.” When finalized, USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) will oversee the rule’s implementation. Read the full USDA Press Release. NOP will also host a public webinar listening session on August 19, 2022, to hear oral comments on the proposed rule. Learn more at the link below.  View the OLPS Proposed Rule Includes links to the Federal Register announcement, how to access the webinar, submitting written comments, and signing up to make oral comments at the webinar. How to Submit an Effective Comment   NOP has a microlearning module (linked below) that provides guidance on how to write an effective public comment. Effective comments help others understand your perspective and how proposals will impact your organic farm or business. This helps USDA best balance needs across impacted participants in the organic market.

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Pear Tree and Fireblight Disease

1 Comment / european pear, fire blight disease, fireblight disease, pear /

Q. I  attached pictures of my pear tree. Do you have any idea why the leaves are doing this strange browning and dying out? Never seen anything like this. Both pictures were submitted by the reader. Sure looks like fireblight disease to me. A. I’m going to state the obvious. The leaves turned brown because they are dead or dying. I know you want to know why they are dead. The usual reasons can be wide-ranging and related to either diseases, damage to limbs or the trunk or soil problems. The possibility that concerns me the most is a disease called ‘fireblight’. Search the Internet or my blog for pictures of what fireblight disease looks like. Check the entire tree for this kind of damage. Advanced stage of fireblight disease. The tree can still be saved by pruning back about 12 inches to stop the disease from spreading. If you are at all suspicious of fireblight, then prune out these branches 6 to 8 inches below this area and use a sanitized pruning shears. If more than one cut is needed, then sanitize your pruning shears between each cut. Use 70% isopropyl alcohol or higher or a cigarette lighter and heat up the blades to kill any possible disease organisms that you could transfer to the cuts. Make sure the tree was planted with compost mixed into the soil as an amendment at planting time. Never surround fruit trees with rocks or gravel on the surface of the soil. Woodchips that can decompose and benefit the soil are much preferred over rocks for any kind of fruit tree. Fireblight disease on recently planted ‘Bartlett’ European pear. If you are watering daily, the tree roots could be suffocating because the soil stays wet and not draining properly. Root suffocation can also cause the leaves to die and turn brown or black. Stop daily watering. Water every other day or every third day during the heat of the summer. Apply enough water when irrigating to cover a large enough area under the tree to initially wet and keep this soil from totally drying out until the next watering. Pear trees grow very well in our climate if the soil is prepared at the time of planting with compost and if the soil surface is covered in woodchips after planting. You should never have to water daily if you are giving the trees enough water, over a large enough area, when you are watering.

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Soil Testing for Home Gardens and Landscapes

2 Comments / agriculture, home garden, raised beds, residential, soil test /

 Testing the soil for home landscapes doesn’t need to be done every year. They are expensive. Start with a baseline soil test (beginning) and test the soil every three to five years or when you think it is necessary. Many of these retail home soil tests can also be marketing tools for selling amendment products. Home soil testing come in kits like La Motte’s or a soil sample you can send in for analysis like the one below. Testing raised beds for gardening is no different than a small garden area without sidewalls. Make sure ALL the important plant nutrients have been tested in desert soils. There has been a lot of negative endorsements in general info about home soil tests. But in my opinion they aren’t too bad if you are looking for general numbers.  This is an example of a home soil test result from Las Vegas, Nevada. It was not too bad. Not as precise as a commercial agricultural soil testing lab but not too bad. Agricultural Labs For more precision I would recommend a commercial agricultural soil testing laboratory that can invest  hundreds of thousands of dollars in important equipment. For research we use A and L Soil Testing Laboratory in Modesto, California, or do it ourselves but a good soil testing labs are considerably less expensive than doing it yourself for research. The major advantage of a lab doing it for a fee and home testing is usually the numbers of tests you can run. Home testing usually involves several tests for the same price while a commercial lab you only can submit one soil sample for a fee. Use a Local Lab It is important to submit samples to a lab that represents your type of soil. Some of the big labs need to know a bit about your soil sample before you begin. Soil testing can be different in different parts of the country. If you live in an arid/desert part of the country, submit it to an arid/desert soil testing laboratory. This is an example of a commercial agricultural soil testing laboratory report.  Commercial agricultural soil testing laboratories invest a considerable amount of money in testing equipment. They are expensive but when accuracy is needed they do a very good job.  Examples of commercial agricultural soil testing laboratories in desert areas to consider include A and L in Modesto, and  IAS in Phoenix, In some states an agricultural soil test is available from the University. These are a good bargain and give you valuable and accurate information. What to Test? Most soil testing includes nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and a few other nutrients. Besides these, in desert soils make sure your soil is tested for iron, manganese and zinc as well. Don’t forget the pH (alkalinity) and EC (salts) to include the salts of sodium, chlorides and boron. Boron is important for soil testing in desert soils. Remember…”garbage in, garbage out.” Always submit a good soil sample.

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Planting During our Desert Heat

2 Comments / desert, heat, leaf scorch, planting /

Leaf scorch can be a reminder that the plant might be in a hot location, soil not amended properly or it was not surrounded by wood chips when it should be.  Avoid planting anything during our desert heat. All planting should stop if it’s windy or temperatures are above 100°F. Sometimes you must plant but think about other times. They will be better and you will have more success. Planting during cooler weather is better for the plant. Planting during cooler weather and you will have more success. If you must plant during the heat: Plant in areas of the landscape appropriate for the plants. Some plants tolerate desert heat better than others. No plants like heat. They prefer growing at temperatures they like (45F to 85F depending on the plant). Dig planting holes and amend the soil a day ahead. Fill the planting hole with water when you’re finished. Plant only during early morning hours. Avoid planting on windy days. Check your phone weather app. Have water ready and available. Would you like some coffee you like some coffee no? Always plant in a “wet hole”, never a “dry hole”. Plant as soon as you get home. Never wait for tomorrow. Keep plants roots wet. Feeder roots in without moisture die within 15 seconds. How many roots die determines the degree of “transplant shock”. Transplant shock isn’t “normal”.

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‘Red Push’ Chinese Pistache Damage

2 Comments / organics, pistache, planting, Red Push, rock /

Q. I have two ‘Red Push’ Chinese pistache trees planted about three years ago and doing well. Recently one was shocked and I’m not sure what happened. This occurred almost overnight. I gave it a few extra gallons and added two drippers to each plant. I don’t use any Round up or anything like that. Can it be saved?  ‘Red Push’ Chinese pistache are damaged with high winds A. It will take a while, but the tree should be fine. The tree will use its stored energy to put on new leaves and replace the dead ones. In the future it’s important to note the weather occurring during that time because we did have some strong winds a few times this summer.  Strong Winds are Damaging and Trees Use More Water Strong winds are particularly damaging in the spring when leaves are new and tender. Strong winds equals increased water lost by plants. Sudden death of leaves right after strong winds signals a need for water. But that water application is usually just once.  However, frequent watering coupled with poor drainage might also cause this problem. My guess is that leaf death was coupled with the wind. So be careful with applying water to landscapes. It can be the “giver of life” in the desert, but it also can be the “giver of death”.  Established Trees Have Stored Food A three-year-old tree like ‘Red Push’ has stored “food” in its branches that it relies on when pushing new leaves. It takes a bit longer for the tree to respond during the spring and early summer months because it has “used up” all its “spring” buds putting on new growth. It’s like a double whammy. It may take the tree a bit longer to produce new buds and new growth.  Chinese Pistache is Mesic not Xeric Tree response to leaf death occurring in late summer and fall is much more rapid since the buds are already formed and new growth happens much faster. Remember that any of the Chinese pistache trees are mesic in their water use; they can tolerate desert soils but need a little bit of irrigation help. They grow best when surrounded by other plants that require water. As with most mesic trees, they can tolerate lawns when there is decent drainage.

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More “White Fuzzies” in Landscapes

3 Comments / cotton, disease, insects, white, wooly /

Q. I live in the central Las Vegas Valley and noticed a creep of linear white deposits on the stems of plants in my raised vegetable garden that has recurred in some desert-adapted plants elsewhere in the yard. It first appeared on sunflower stems, then lacinato kale, some basil, tomatoes and their stems, and now on new growth from a Vitex tree and turpentine bush. It seems to be spreading, in other words. Can you advise what this is, and any way to remedy it? A. Those “white deposits” are probably tiny “cocoons” of tiny insects in the landscape. I reorted these on my blog in previous years, calling them “white fuzzies”. I didn’t know what they exactly were either, but I knew that they were insect related. A horticulturist in the Phoenix area guessed that they were sharpshooter (insect) pupae, and he may be right. In any regard, these insect pupae “were just passing through” the landscape where they were “incidental” and probably not damaging these plants. Generally speaking, when we see white deposits on many different kinds of plants it’s usually not disease-related but may be related to insects. If guessed that these white deposits in this case are “insect related” then look at the plant and note any damage you might see. If there is no damage, then these insects are “incidental” to your plants. If you see insect damage to the plants, then they might not be “incidental” and it’s best to use your favorite least toxic insect spray and see if that stops the problem. Soap and water is usually a good first, least toxic spray and readily available. You can always try something more toxic as your second spray if that doesn’t stop the damage.

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Walker River Paiute Trible Signs Local Food Cooperative Agreement with USDA

Leave a Comment / cooperative agreement, local food, Paiute, USDA /

  USDA Announces Walker River Paiute Tribe Signs Local Food Purchase Assistance Cooperative Agreement Date: Friday, July 15, 2022 – 3:00pm Contact Info Public Affairs [email protected] (202) 720-8998 Release No. 090-22 WASHINGTON, July 15, 2022 — The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) today announced it has signed a cooperative agreement with Walker River Paiute Tribe under the Local Food Purchase Assistance Cooperative Agreement Program (LFPA). This is the first LFPA cooperative agreement between USDA and a tribal government. Additional agreements with tribal governments will follow in the coming weeks. “USDA is excited to partner with Walker River Paiute Tribe to promote economic opportunities for farmers and producers and to increase access to locally sourced, fresh, healthy, and nutritious food in this community,” said USDA Under Secretary for Marketing and Regulatory Programs Jenny Lester Moffitt. “The Local Food Purchase Cooperative Agreement Program will improve food and agricultural supply-chain resiliency and increase local food consumption around the country. I am so honored to partner with Chairman Torres on this first-of-its-kind tribal agreement.” The federally recognized Walker River Paiute Tribe is located on the Walker River Paiute Reservation, located in Schurz, Nev., a rural community in midwestern Nevada about 100 miles southeast of Reno, Nev. Through LFPA, the Tribe will work with the Agai-Dicutta Local Food Purchase Program to source and distribute locally and regionally produced eggs, dairy, and produce at the Walker River Paiute Reservation. This two-year project will increase local food consumption among historically underserved populations while building economic opportunity for local, regional, and underserved farmers and producers. “We are excited to collaborate with USDA by being the first tribal nation to sign a Local Food Purchase Agreement. Our partnership will benefit local producers throughout the Great Basin area and provide our tribal citizens access to healthy foods. We are happy to be a part of promoting tribal nutrition security, keeping dollars circulating within our local economy and building relationships with local farmers, ranchers and producers,” said Walker River Paiute Tribe Chairman Amber Torres. “I truly believe no one knows the needs of our tribal citizens better than the tribe and the people we serve. Despite the challenges the Covid-19 pandemic presented the tribe over the past two years, this program continues to show our resiliency as a tribal nation. We appreciate the flexibility and trust to administer our own program and the acknowledgement of our tribal sovereignty. Our congressional leaders made sure that Indian country was not an afterthought through tribal allocations in the CARES Act and American Rescue Plan Act, both of which provided seed funding for our Food Sovereignty project.” The LFPA program is authorized by the American Rescue Plan to maintain and improve food and agricultural supply chain resiliency. Through this program, USDA will award up to $400 million through non-competitive cooperative agreements with state and tribal governments to support local, regional, and underserved producers through the purchase of food produced within the state or within 400 miles of delivery destination. AMS looks forward to continuing to sign agreements under this innovative program that allows state and tribal governments to procure and distribute local and regional foods and beverages that are healthy, nutritious, and unique to their geographic area. More information about the program is available on AMS’s Local Food Purchase Assistance Cooperative Agreement Program webpage.

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Spanish Dagger (Yucca) and Curve-Leaf Yucca are Not Cacti

Leave a Comment / Spanish dagger, yucca /

Q. I have a five-foot yucca tree that I cannot get to be disease free after two years of trying.  I have tried the following chemicals; Bayer Advanced complete Insect Killer, Bonide Thuricide and Bonide Tree and Shrub Insect Control Systemic. Any suggestions on how to save it. Judging from the picture and your problems it might be Spanish Dagger, a native of the SE part of the US. Spanish Dagger, Yucca gloriosa, does not handle the heat and should not be planted in south or westerly landscapes. Not sent to me by the author. A. Judging from the picture you sent to me your yucca tree is Yucca gloriosa, a.k.a. Spanish dagger. Spanish dagger is a yucca native to the SE that gets brown spots on its leaves that resemble disease but it is either planted in the wrong location or planted incorrectly or both. This plant is both mesic (high in its water use) and not a desert yucca native. Looks like Yucca recurvifolia (aka Y. pendula) another yucca native to the southeastern and southern US that may scorch if planted in a hot location. Readers picture. Spanish dagger is an Eastern coastal native from South Carolina to Florida. If planted in our desert Southwest, this yucca will look diseased if it’s planted on the West or South sides of a home, surrounded by rock, or watered like a cactus. Because it’s a native of the southeastern United States, Spanish dagger should be planted so that it gets shade in the afternoon; on the East or north side of a home landscape in afternoon shade. Also, plant it with compost amending the soil and surrounded by other mesic plants to help moisten the soil.

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