Xtremehorticulture

Granular Fertilizer, Fertilizer Stakes or Compost for Fruit Trees?

Q. Last week we planted several fruit trees and have established trees as well. Would you recommend applying fertilizer around these trees now? Spikes or granular type of fertilizer? A. Fertilizers will benefit fruit trees the most if applied to the soil just before spring growth. But if you haven’t applied any, then do it now during spring growth.             The least expensive way is using granular fertilizers in a single application in the spring.             Fertilizer stakes or spikes are granular fertilizers compressed into a stake you can drive into the ground. They are not messy, convenient, and no open bags that can spill but more expensive per pound of fertilizer. Jobes does a good job with fertilizer stakes but a bit on the expensive side.             Drive them into the ground near drip emitters or in the irrigation basin; one for each emitter. They release nutrients slowly. Apply them only once in the spring. This is a cheaper version we were using at the orchard for trials. The soil should be wetted and the plastic cap put on top and the stake pounded into wet soil just under the emitter or in the irrigation basin. Small trees two will do. Larger trees would require four or more, one in each quadrant of the basin or under an emitter.             For new trees, if you mixed in good quality compost with the soil in the planting hole you can skip a fertilizer application this season. If you put a smidgen in the ground then apply a fertilizer now if you haven’t.             You can split granular fertilizer applications in half if you want. Apply half now and the other half after you harvest or in a couple of months if there is no fruit. Fruit trees that are tender to winter cold should not be fertilized after mid-summer so apply the second half earlier than this.             If you are using organic fertilizers that release nutrients slowly then apply it once in the early spring.  Young fruit tree fertilized with compost at the orchard. The tree is watered with an irrigation basin and a bubbler. The water from the bubbler moves the compost into the basin through the mulch. The compost acts like a “fertilizer tea”.             Foliar sprays of fertilizers are a great way to fertilize trees if they are in difficult places. Foliar applications should be done more frequently because their results are short-lived. Apply foliar sprays every 6 to 8 weeks until it gets hot.             Keep fertilizers away from tree trunks but in contact with water. Apply them no closer than a foot from the trunk and just under the soil surface. Make sure they are watered in thoroughly after application. Compost applied to the base of the fruit trees by volunteers at the Orchard. Two five gallon buckets are applied to each of the larger trees. One five gallon bucket for the smaller ones.             I have seen new trees killed by applications of fertilizers applied too close to the trunk. Salt damage from fertilizers can kill newly planted trees.             Don’t forget iron. Newly planted trees normally don’t need it the first couple of years but may develop iron shortages beginning in the third to the fifth years. This plum tree had iron chlorosis really severe after it leafed out in the spring. Four applications of iron sprays, spaced one week apart, turned it completely green again. Next year it received iron chelate applied to the soil in January to prevent this.

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Not Too Late to Prune Pomegranate!

Pomegranates will give you bigger and better fruit if you prune. The question is, HOW? I have worked with pomegranates in several countries now and I will try to explain some basics to help get you started. Pomegranates are easier to manage and produce better fruit if they are pruned. Single-trunked pomegranates can also be created. Pick three to five large stems or “trunks” to remain. Remove the others. Pomegrantes are wicked to prune. I always leave pretty bloody with some pretty nasty scratches everywhere. So be prepared as best as you can. Makes you wonder who won! In most cases, pomegranates are easier to manage and produce better fruit if they are pruned so that 1 to 5 major trunks remain. They seldom perform well or easy to manage if you let them grow as a “bush”. If you have been to my demonstrations…start at the BOTTOM of the tree and move upward when pruning. Start pruning on your knees. Remove all but the largest and most vigorous trunks. Remove the rest. Do not leave stubs as it was done here. They will just create suckers or die back. Pull the mulch or soil away from the trunk and make the cuts as close to the main trunks as possible. Use sharp, adjusted and sanitized tools.You do not need to use pruning paint after the cut. Let the cuts heal for a couple of weeks and replace the soil or mulch. Remove any side branches from the trunk that will touch the ground when they are pulled down like they might if they produced fruit. Fruit should not be allowed to touch the ground. Multi-trunked trees should have their side growth removed if those side shoots might allow fruit to touch the ground. You are now standing and using a loppers. Remove any crossed branches or branches that are broken. If shoots are growing on top of one another or immediately next to each other, remove one. Fruit will be produced on spring growth so we say it produces fruit on “current season” wood. Flowers are produced on new growth that’s why they flower later than many other fruit trees. The new growth must first be produced and then flowers will form on it. The best fruit is produced on this new growth that comes from larger branches. These flowers originate from exactly the same place on this new growth. If they both set fruit, one will be removed when it is small to allow for the other to get larger. This is one of the few times the fruit is “thinned”, otherwise we don’t thin the fruit. The best fruit is colorful, free from scratches and free from sunburn. The best fruit will be protected from direct intense sunlight, hangs so that it doesn’t get scratched by neighboring branches. Lowering the height of pomegranate. Pomegranate height can be lowered and kept small if you want it that way. Pomegranate grows like a fountain. Young erect stems produce fruit. The fruit weighs the branch down and causes it to bend toward the ground. The bent branch is stimulated to grow new shoots along its bent side toward the sun. This creates growth that resembles a “fountain”. This continues until woody growth of the plant supports itself and produces fruit in a tangled mess of branches and thorny wood. Once the tree reaches the height you want, remove “suckers” growing straight up at their source. It is easiest to do when this growth is young and immature when it can be “pulled” from older wood rather than cutting it out.

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Peas Not Germinating Evenly

Q. I have had problems with germination of peas. Placed directly in prepared soil germination has been inconsistent and I had to reseed several times. Remembering a technique I learned years ago I diluted a quart of tap water with 1/8 teaspoon of laundry ammonia and watered them with that. In 2 days ten germinated and in 3 days almost all came up. Have you ever heard of this technique? Harrisons peas and trellis. Nice veggies!  A short disclaimer. This is submitted by someone in Las Vegas who is a very good gardener and this does not represent his question very well! Sorry Harrison! But anyone who can grow bananas here for the past few years is a good gardener. I will post his pictures soon and ask him to submit how he did it. A. No, I have not and that is pretty amazing! In every instance I can remember I do not remember peas being hard to germinate.             A technique I use with large seed like corn, peas or beans is to soak the seed in water prior to germination. I will put a small amount of fertilizer in the water as well. I would soak them for 6 to 8 hours before planting.             This is called “pregerminating” the seed. Using this technique usually cuts off the germination time a day or two in warms soils. I will also do the same thing with garlic cloves before planting. I usually get much faster and more even emergence from the soil.             Sometimes I think garden soil is too “fluffy” and sometimes seed has a hard time staying wet enough in dry soils for good germination.  Seed germinates better in a “firm” seedbed. Not hard, but firm. After garden soil preparation and if you walk on it, your feet should not sink more than an inch into the soil.

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Some Grapes Require Thinning of the Foliage During Spring Months

Q. After the grapes set their fruit in the next couple of weeks can the vine be trimmed or does it need to grow to provide shade and nutrition to the grapes? A. As long as your vine is growing vigorously you can continue to prune through the summer. You want to make sure the berries are shaded by the leaves to prevent sunburn. These are table grapes. We will go through the vines during the early part of the growing season and pull new growth that we will not need for next year out of the vines. We have to be careful not to pull too much out and expose the bunches. But by pulling growth out of the vines we open up the canopy for better light penetration, better penetration by pesticides that might be applied and reduce shading on itself. Table grapes are much more vigorous than wine grapes.             We trim the vines back several times during the growing season. Usually table grapes are more vigorous than wine grapes. When the vine is shading itself or out of control it needs some pruning or thinning of its growth. This is something new grape growers to the desert discover too late. They think you can grow grapes with trellis systems from more mild climates. Wrong, wrong, wrong. This is a very harsh climate and the sun can be very damaging. Grape bunches must be protected from intense direct sunlight. We will try different types of trellising at the Orchard. A favorite of ours for table grapes is the use of “catch wires” above the double wires used for the the cordons. As new growth emerges from the cordons they are “tucked” on top of the double catch wire above where they provide shade for the grape bunches and reduces sunburn. The new growth is “thinned” so it does not shade itself, is more manageable and thinned for better penetration by light and pesticides (Bt, Spinosad) Use grape training systems that provide crop cover as they are maturing.

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How to Prune My Blackberries?

Q. Last summer I planted one blackberry bush in my little garden plot.  I got about 10 blackberries and they were delicious.  The problem I have is how to prune it.   These are pictures the reader submitted. I hope he is not training it like a vine, or, if he is, he will be replacing the vine each season with the new growth. The second year growth dies in the second year and must be replaced by the first years growth. Some blackberries will grow like vines while others are erect or somewhat erect and need little to no support. If this is blackberry it is the “trailing” type that is normally draped over trellis wires to keep it off the ground. After it produces it is cut to the ground and the new trailing growth is used for producing berries the next year. A. Blackberries can be a bit confusing at first. You are managing two stages of growth with blackberries; the canes that emerged from the ground and grew last year (two year old canes) and the canes that will emerge this year (one year old canes).             Fruit this year is produced on canes that grew last year (two year old canes). Canes that grow this year (one year old canes) produce fruit next year.             When canes produce fruit, they must then be removed or pruned to the ground. The easiest way to do it is to remove them soon after you pick the fruit.             If you wait too long to prune it can sometimes be difficult to see which canes to prune out and which ones to leave for next year.             In our climate, vigorous blackberries seldom reach the heights they can get in milder climates. However, if you have a vigorous blackberry that will get quite tall then cut the tips off of the canes when they reach about four feet in height. This helps to make them stiffer and more capable of carrying a fruit load.             Some blackberries grow along the ground and others grow more erect. If the one year old canes grow along the ground then you will have to wrap them around some trellis wires. If they are fairly erect in growth you may not need to. A bit of a disclaimer. Blackberries do not do that well in our hot desert climate with our highly alkaline soils and salts. We have followed the advice of some work done in Yuma by the University of Arizona and grew both Rosborough and Womack varieties in Las Vegas which are erect forms. Even under good growing conditions they seldom get above 5 1/2 ft tall. However, Brazos did not do well for us. Others that have not performed well in the valley include Arapahoe,  Navaho,  Cherokee, Apache,  and Kiowa. Some people have reported success with some cultivars but upon checking these plants are only one to two years old and they frequently fail after that. You will need at least five years of success, as we do at the Orchard, to call it a “success” or plant it as a biennial.

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Saguaro Leaning is Usually an Irrigation Problem

Q. Our saguaro is about 10 years old.  In the last year or so four arms have popped out mostly on one side.  Now the saguaro is beginning to lean and we have propped it up. What do you suggest we do? Even though this picture is not from the submitter I wanted to post it for my friends who are viewing from other countries or part of the USA. Saguaro is not native to the Mojave Desert but to the Sonoran to our south. Even though they can be a bit sensitive to the Mojave winter cold they have done quite well in the lower elevations of southern Nevada. If people will stop putting burlap coats on it for the winter….. A. I would guess your irrigation is too close to the trunk. This concentrates the roots there and doesn’t allow root development further from the trunk for support.             In the wild, saguaros roots are about 30 inches deep near the trunk and spread a distance equal to its height at depths averaging only about 10 inches.  This matting of shallow roots spreading from the trunk is important in keeping the cactus erect.             I would prop it up as you are doing and immobilize the base so it cannot move. Then I would apply water at increasing distances from the trunk. These should be shallow and infrequent irrigations at distances from the trunk equal to at least half of its height.             You can do this by planting other desert plants that require similar types of irrigations in these areas. Water supplied to these plants will help to irrigate the saguaro. You can also do this by handwatering in these areas once a month with a spray nozzle.

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How Much Water for My 1 1/2 inch Diameter Fruit Tree?

Q. How many gallons should a fruit tree receive for each watering if it’s trunk is 1.5 inches in diameter 24 inches above the ground? A. Watering amounts are usually related more to the size of the canopy or total height than the trunk. Trunk size is sometimes used more for estimating how much fertilizer to apply.             That tree size would require around 10 to 15 gallons for each watering. If you are using drip emitters, you should be using four (4) emitters in a square pattern 12 to 18 inches from the trunk. So running 3 gallon per hour emitters for one hour would equal 12 gallons. Just to remind readers we follow the PET curve developed for here and is below. Months are January=1 to December=12. Numbers on top of the bars represent inches of water per day. We would change irrigation frequencies in months 2, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 12.The amount applied each time stays relatively constant, just the times per week is changed.

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Mechanical Control of Borers in Fruit Trees

I will usually take a very sharp, large knife and remove this loose bark and find out how much damage has been done by the borer. No one talks about this subject probably because no one has really tried it much in the past. Borer problems in fruit trees in Las Vegas are usually from two different possible insects; flat-headed apple tree borer or the Pacific flatheaded borer. The damage from both of these insects are very similar. They usually damage areas of the tree damaged by intense sunlight. This means the upper surfaces of limbs and the sides of limbs facing south or west. Early damage from borers starts with this brown crystalline sap coming from damaged branches. When it rains this sap gets very gooey like petroleum jelly. This is peach but the limbs have been whitewashed. More borer damage on the same tree. Damage does not usually cause limb dieback unless the limb is small or the problem has been developing in the tree for a couple of years. With repeat attacks the limb becomes weaker, the vascular system that carries water and nutrients is severely impeded and then we see branch dieback and flagging (leaves dead on the tree without falling off). When damage from borers has been going on for quite some time the lifting of the bark can be extensive and damage can extend nearly all the way around the limb. I will usually take a very sharp, large knife (not a pen knife, this would be dangerous) remove this loose bark and find out how much damage has been done by the borer. If the damage has not extended over half way around the limb I will remove the bark all the way down to fresh wood. The dead wood and bark is completely removed from the limb and the limb is allowed to heal. Nothing is applied to the limb but time. In our many years of doing this in the orchard I would estimate that over 50% (very conservative estimate and it is probably closer to 80%) recover with this method. I can only guess but removing the loose bark takes away any hiding places the adult will have when it exits the tree, if it does.  If successful, the tree heals over the wound in two to three years. Peach tree borer repair with a knife and healing of the upper surface of the limbs.

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Sneezing Might Be Due to African Sumac

Ash trees are starting to bloom now as well. I have noticed that African Sumac has been flowering and is still flowering now. If you have been sneezing over the past couple of weeks, this could be the problem. Ash trees are starting to bloom now as well. Flowers of African Sumac I know you could say fruit trees, flowering plum, ornamental pear are flowering too but usually plants with brightly colored flowers do not contribute much to allergy problems. Flowers of ash. Coming up very soon are mulberries, pine and canary island date palms for allergy sufferers.

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Brown Spots Probably Disease Problem on Tree Photinia

Q. Can you tell what the problem is with my patio tree and what I can do about it? The leaves are all covered in brown spots. I am not sure which plant it is. A. From the looks of the plant it seems to me to be a photinia pruned as a patio tree. From the pictures you sent with the black spots on the leaves I think it is either photinia leaf spot disease or more likely, anthracnose. Neither one do we see much here.             Both diseases can attack photinia and Majestic Beauty hawthorne so if your tree is either one of these, this might be the problem. Majestic Beauty is particularly prone to anthracnose while the smaller shrub-type hawthornes usually are not.             Unhealthy plants are MORE likely to get a disease than healthy ones.  Anthracnose usually makes dark brown or tan spots that look like irregular targets with concentric irregular rings in them.             Poor air circulation and wet leaves will make this disease worse. These diseases are thought to spread when leaves are wet or if you spray them with a hose to keep them moist. So irrigate only at the base of the tree and do not spray the leaves.             The tree and the interior of its canopy need air circulation to stay dry. Prune out entire limbs from the trunk or branches so that air can move through the canopy and not stagnate.             Leaf spot disease is caused by a different fungus and can re-attack the tree year after year if you don’t pick up diseased leaves that have dropped and dispose of them.             The disease is less likely to be active when it is hot out. So if you have to spray the foliage then avoid doing it during the cooler months. Do it during the summer in the morning hours.             I noticed something on the bottom of your leaves when I magnified the picture you sent. Aphids? Soap and water sprays on the undersides of the leaves will control them. Do it every three days for about four applications.             Your tree is not in the best of health. Apply iron chelate in the form of EDDHA and a good flowering tree fertilizer now, in very early spring, and once again later in the season.

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