Xtremehorticulture

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert

Replace Conventional Fertilizers with Organic Fertilizers

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Q. I want to replace all my chemical fertilizers with organic formulations. The problem is that I’m not finding any organic fertilizers for landscape trees and shrubs such as podocarpus and photinia. Is it possible to make my own? Please tell me what you recommend. For the USDA National Organic Program find fertilizers that are OMRI Listed or Approved for the USDA NOP. Other countries, places and people have different definitions of “organic”. A. The definition of “organic” can be difficult. To some people organic means free from pesticides and mineral fertilizers. To others it’s things like fish emulsion, kelp meal, bone meal guano, etc. To others it means strict adherence to the USDA definition of organic. In the United States the term organic usually means it’s a listed product of OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) which recommends products for the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP). OMRI Listed – USDA NOP             There are fertilizers in bags listed as OMRI approved. I would look for the word “Organic” mentioned somewhere on the bag. Technically, a product cannot mention the word organic unless it’s recommended for USDA’s organic program. One that comes to mind is the OMRI Listed fertilizer called, “All Purpose” manufactured by Grow More. It resembles a mineral fertilizer when you open the bag but it’s one of the “organic” types.

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Chemical to Cause Fruit Drop in Ornamental Plum

Leave a Comment / flowering plum, fruit drop /

Q. I have an ornamental flowering plum that produces fruit. I want to spray it to stop the fruit production and the messiness it brings. Last year I had a commercial applicator apply it, but I think I want to save some money and do it myself this year. This is ornamental (flowering) plum fruit. The fruit is harvested by many to make a very tart (lots of sugar) jam or jelly. Commercially it is available as a fruit tree called ‘Sprite’ and ‘Delight’. A. Mark your calendar because yours will flower within the same week, plus or minus, every year. You’ll have to spray the tree with a chemical every year to get the fruit to drop when it’s still small and prevent the messiness later. To get it to work, spray the entire canopy of the tree when as many of the flowers are open as possible. Applying Olive Stop             You will find it under several different similar trade names like, “Olive Stop”, “Fruit Eliminator”, “Fruit Be Gone”, or some similar name. What is important is the active ingredient listed on the front label in small letters. The most common active ingredient is Florel, but you might also find it listed as NAA, Fruitone, etc. How to Use it             This concentrated spray is diluted with water and first sprayed when the flowers on the tree are fully open 20 to 30%. For best results it is sprayed again at 80% of full bloom a couple weeks later. Commercial applicators spray the tree a single time when it’s close to full bloom. It’s a good idea to include a wetting agent or surfactant before spraying to improve the sprays coverage and penetration.             It’s important that the flowers are open and sprayed to the point where the inside is wet, and the flower starts dripping when you’re finished. The canopy of the tree is dripping with the spray when you’re done. This is called “to the point of runoff”. Spraying the open flowers above their reach is the usual problem for most homeowners because they don’t have a good way of spraying all the flowers. Ornamental Flowering Plum             The ornamental flowering plum is an actual fruit tree. Nothing wrong with the fruit. It’s naturally “puckery”. Many people make jam and jelly with it when the fruit is not sprayed. I would not recommend making jam or jelly with it if it’s been sprayed. Add as much sugar to it as your taste permits.

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Mormon Tea Disease or Drought?

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Q. At our wildlife preserve near Midland, Texas, I found ephedra plants (Mormon tea) that looks like it might be diseased. Other plants in the area look fine. We are currently in a severe drought condition, but most ephedra clumps are flowering. Have any ideas? Disease or drought? Give it to a pathologist and they will claim its a disease. Give it to a soil and water scientist and they will claim drought. Are they both right? Which came first, the chicken or the egg. A. Native plants like “Mormon tea” or ephedra will dieback when the soil gets dry for a long time. That;s their nature. Dying back is normal but it can be confused with a disease, or it might be a disease causing it. Sometimes native plants succumb to diseases when they are weakened and don’t receive enough water. But don’t worry. They will spring back to life during the next rain. Drought? Water in the soil is irregular in supply because of its distribution and the soils capability of storing water. For this reason, some plants receive more water than others just simply because of differences in soil texture (variability in soil, various amounts of sand, silt, and clay). Because of genetics some plants are more susceptible to disease than others. Disease?             If your curiosity is bugging you, the way to find out which disease is to contact your State Plant pathologist and send in a sample. But this may not give you an answer you can apply but it may solve your curiosity. I’m guessing the State Plant pathologist will confirm there is a disease present but it’s probably one of the less vigorous diseases like Cytospora spp. that affects weakened various plants that are in the process of dying back due to a lack of water. An Alternative             Instead of sending it to the pathologist I would take a couple of gallons of water and pour about a quart to 2 quarts of this water at the base of several of the “diseased” plants and watch what happens. Reaction by the plant might take two weeks in warm weather. You may see some new growth at the base of the plant in a week or two. Then again, you might not. It depends on what you want to learn; is there a disease present? Or do you want to solve the potential disease problem?

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African Sumac Limb Disease

Leave a Comment / branch dying, dead wood, strong crotch, weak crotch, wind /

Q. My African sumac tree has a fungus in it. I am thinking of cutting off the whole main branch because of the disease but it’s a guide branch and I hate to do that. Or can I just cut off the branch that broke? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated! Bottom picture is limb of African Sumac reportedly dead. The top picture is the inside of the limb cut open to show the dead part inside. A. The disease won’t spread to healthy parts of the plant. The rot or disease spreads internally inside the tree because it’s what we call “saprophytic” and only attacks dead or very weak wood. There is nothing you can do to stop it. Tree Biology             The center of the tree is composed of dead wood. The only living part of the tree is a thin ring just under the bark. This living part is strong enough to stop the spread of this “saprophytic” disease. The only thing you can do to help your tree is to make sure that whatever you use to cut or prune the wood is as clean and sharp as possible. Narrow crotch angles are not good in landscape trees. They are shaped like the letter “V”. After time they start to split as their weight increases and rot can begin on the inside of the trunk. Narrow crotches start to split during the wind and its internal dead wood begins to rot. This rotting will not affect the living parts of the tree. Only the dead parts.             My guess is that this “rot” started at the top of a narrow crotch; where two limbs come together. Narrow crotch is making the letter V when you look at it. Week crotches can split in strong winds particularly if the inside of the tree has been starting to rot there. A strong crotch angle makes the letter “U” and less likely to start rotting in that spot and then split apart in strong winds.              Prune it enough to shape the tree the way you want it. Just cut off the branch that broke very close to the next larger branch and let it heal and completely close it off in three or four years. It takes longer to heal if it’s not cut close to the trunk so there is no longer a stub remaining. If the tree looks healthy to you otherwise then don’t worry about it. Cut off the limb close to the trunk with a clean blade.

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Washington States Department of Agriculture: Fertilizer Composition

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I think it was the cleric and economist Robert Malthus who developed a theory that large populations of organisms would slowly make their own environment more “toxic” and no longer sustain themselves. In some ways what he observed is true. We are living in an environment that is becoming more “toxic” as we grow our own food. Some of these “toxicities” come from industrial processes and some of them from our own efforts. Plastics found in human blood Fertilizers and Toxicity Our worlds are becoming more and more toxic. A few states in the US have posted the level of toxicity in fertilizers for home gardens. There has been lots of research on this topic. Brochures exist on heavy metals and gardens. And here. These toxicities are below what the US EPA considers “safe” for human health but they do exist. Another problem with additions to garden soils are the levels of pharmaceuticals used when producing gardens soils and compost. This is from the Washington State Department of Agriculture website

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Glad You Selected a California Pepper Tree

Leave a Comment / deciduous, evergreen, landscape, plant selection, trees /

Q. I have a California pepper tree near my pool that’s constantly dropping leaves into it. I am wondering if I can lower its height so it will drop fewer leaves and stems. Anything else I should think about? Because pepper tress are usually evergreen during warm winters in southern Nevada they will drop their leaves all season long. A. California pepper tree is a better selection than Brazilian pepper. But they are both evergreen and can pose a problem near water that you want to keep clean. Evergreen plants constantly drop leaves all season long but drop their leaves heaviest soon after times of new growth. A deciduous tree that drops its leaves for the winter months is a better choice near pools because you clean the pool only once. Read more about pepper trees here Make Sure its Not Water Make sure it’s not dropping leaves because of a lack of water. Increase the amount of water and the frequency of application to make sure it’s not dropping its leaves because the soil is too dry. The recommended frequency of water application by water purveyors is correct for mesic trees growing in landscapes. Check to make sure enough water is applied each time to penetrate the soil 18 to 24 inches deep. Make sure that water is applied to at least half the area under the tree canopy. Water again when the soil at 8 to 10 inches deep is about half full of water or starting to dry out. To reduce soil evaporation and we growth, apply a surface mulch of rock or woodchips to a depth of 2 to 3 inches.             Also remember to apply water on, or just before, windy days. Use your weather app on your phone to judge when it will be windy in the future. You’re Right             You’re right in that lowering the trees height decreases the amount of leaves and stems you must clean up, but evergreen trees are still going to drop leaves at inconvenient times of the year. If you decide to lower the trees height rather than replace the trees, then pay the extra expense to have it done correctly by a licensed arborist. Not all licensed arborists are good at pruning trees. See some examples of their work before you employ them.

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Organic Production in US and Recent Additions to NOP List

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  USDA Amends the National List for Organic Crops and Handling Final Rule Published The Organic Foods Production Act created the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances (National List) as a tool for managing the substances used in organic production in the US over time. In general, natural substances are allowed in organics, and synthetic substances are prohibited. The National List identifies the limited exceptions to these general rules. The National List also identifies nonagricultural and nonorganic agricultural substances (ingredients) that may be used in organic handling. Changes to the National List require a National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) recommendation and USDA rulemaking, a process that provides multiple opportunities for public comment. Today, the USDA published a final rule in the Federal Register to amend the National List for crops and handling based on public input and October 2019 NOSB recommendations. This final rule provides additional options for organic farms by adding two substances to the list of substances allowed for organic crop production. This final rule allows: Fatty alcohols as sucker control in organic tobacco production. Example of chemicals tested: Potassium hypochlorite to treat irrigation water used in organic crop production. Potassium hypochlorite recommendation:. Visit the Final Rule Changes to what can and cannot be applied organically About the National List More information on the National List, including how and why substances are added or removed, is available on the USDA, National Organic Program, National List webpage.

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Is it Safe to Fertilize and Water Plants in the Fall?

Leave a Comment / Fall fertilization /

Q. Being I have several neglected outside plants that need attention, I cleaned their dead growth and replaced any soil missing with new potting soil.  Is it safe to fertilize and water this time of the year using Miracle Gro and tonic? Miracle Gro was purchased by Scotts and some in sales say the quality has gone down among chemical fertilizers. As far as I am concerned, it is water soluble and carries the right combination of nutrients and low in toxic elements, who cares? A. You didn’t tell me which plants you have, I don’t know which Miracle Gro fertilizer you want to apply, and I don’t know what the “tonic” means. To be on the safe side don’t apply anything to the soil or to the plants until winter temperatures warm up sometime in February or early March. Plant tonics are not regulated and can contain anything the manufacturer wants to add. Make sure the nitrogen content of a plant tonic is low enough that you are not stimulating any late growth of winter tender plants. To be more specific, if the plants are winter tender (freeze above 25F in our climate) then don’t stimulate any new growth with any nitrogen fertilizer. Wait it out until spring. Don’t apply any high nitrogen fertilizers (fertilizers with the first number on the bag highest) until late February or early March. The later you delay applying fertilizers during the winter the better. The same holds true of the “tonic” that you mentioned. Super thrive falls in the category of a “plant tonic” in my opinion. It is not a fertilizer or it could fall under the states fertilizer laws and be regulated. Some “plant tonics” people swear by and some people swear at. If it contains nitrogen in the ingredients, be careful of stimulating late season growth if the plant gets an excess. In the future don’t use “potting soil” to fill holes or empty spaces in the soil. Try to match well the soil you are applying closer to the type of soil surrounding the plant roots. Potting soil is usually too “fluffy”. If you already have this potting soil or can’t do this for some reason, then make sure potting soil is mixed well with the surrounding soil and then water thoroughly.

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Can I Use Burlap as a Shadecloth?

Leave a Comment / herbs, shade cloth, vegetables /

Q. Can I use burlap for shade cloth? Burlap fabric  A. Don’t use burlap as a solid piece in place of shade cloth for permanent shade. It is fine for creating permanent shade for people or pets but not for plants. Be careful how much heat it traps under it if it is located too close to humans and other animals. Plants are green and need sunlight for photosynthesis. Usually about 60 to 70% sunlight. People and pets don’t need as much. Use Shade Cloth Instead It comes in different percentages of shade ranging from about 30% to 100%. Shade cloth for plants ranges from 20 to about 50% shade. Plants that flower and produce fruits like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant need more light than leafy plants: 20 to 40% shade. Shade more than this interferes with flowering and fruiting. t This is 30% shade cloth used on a tunnel for growing sun sensitive vegetables and herbs in the desert sun in Las Vegas Plants that only grow leaves and no flowers such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, greens can handle shade up to about 50%. After 50% shade, they grow poorly. Too dark. Not enough light. Most burlap I have seen produces much more shade than this and would not be a good choice when growing plants.  You can make 50% shade out of wooden 1×2’s by omitting every other piece of wood. These are called “lathe houses”. Similarly, 30-40% shade can be done the same way but by eliminating 2 and leaving every 3rd 1×2.

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Getting Asparagus Ready for Winter

Leave a Comment / asparagus, vegetables, winter /

Q. I’ve been getting e-mails about preparing asparagus ready for winter. They recommend cutting the stems 2″ above the ground, then apply compost then mulch.  Is that what I should be doing to get the plants ready for winter? When temperatures get cold and start to freeze, asparagus will turn brown, the tops die. Sometimes they stay green all winter long if we have a warm winter. A. That’s not what I liked to do with asparagus. I found that 2 inches of “stubble” created by cutting the stems above ground interfered with my work getting ready for next year’s spring crop. I preferred to cut this woody stem growth about an inch below the soil surface with a thick knife or asparagus knife on about January 1.  I prefer to cut the spears when I harvest them and sort them in the shed or kitchen. I find that the asparagus stubble scattered in the field interferes with walking and harvesting. https://www.harryepstein.com/asparagus-knife-usa-weeder.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2sqOBhCGARIsAPuPK0jTKUY5H9kiydW_sFC5-Nf8fPNb1csto5wpHWzPw97TMJAXE-aI5SoaAjRlEALw_wcB If we have a cold winter these stems (called fronds) freeze and turn yellow. With a warm winter they stay green. Don’t reapply asparagus stems as a mulch to your old asparagus bed or to any vegetables due to allelopathy. I would burn it instead. Regardless of how they appear in the winter these ferns still need to be cut back to get ready for next year’s production. After they are cut and in late winter, a fertilizer such as rich compost or regular compost plus a mineral fertilizer high in nitrogen, needs to be applied. Asparagus loves rich soil. Bare Soil Warms Faster Bare soil warms up faster than a cold winter soil covered in mulch. A warmer soil means an earlier asparagus spear harvest. If you can keep an eye on your asparagus emergence, then apply the mulch when you first start seeing spears if you want early production and not earlier than this. Next year’s production can start as early as January. If you want production later in the spring, then mulch them immediately after you apply the compost or manure.

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