Xtremehorticulture

Avocados High Risk in Las Vegas Area But If You HAVE to Plant One….

Q. Do you have recommendations/suggestions for new avocado and lime tree plantings for Las Vegas? I currently have a Meyer lemon tree which is doing great. A. I don’t like to recommend lime or avocado for this climate, particularly avocado, unless you have a very warm spot in the landscape that can give off a lot of winter warmth and protection from winter winds.             These plants are very tender during the winter here and the chances of losing them due to winter cold is extremely high. That being said, if you decide to move ahead with a lime then any of the limes would be a good choice depending on your preference. Rangpur and red limes, although cold hardy, are not limes at all but could be used as a substitute. To my knowledge there is little difference in the true limes abilities to make it through the cold here so that would not be a consideration.             As far as the avocado goes, I would select a smaller selection to give it a better chance of surviving. Make sure the rootstock is also cold tolerant or you could lose the roots while the top did not freeze. Here are some recommended cold hardy varieties from a Texas website: http://toptropicals.com/html/toptropicals/articles/fruit/varieties_avocado.htm Cold hardy varieties: Brazos Belle: Produces medium-large, purple-black long fruit. Season: October-November. Fantastic: Produces green, paper thin skin, supposedly the most most cold hardy of all. The fruit has a creamy texture. Joey: Selected by Joey Ricers in Uvalde, Texas (just outside of San-Antonio). Produces medium size, egg shaped purple-black fruit. It has excellent flavor. Heavy bearer. Season: September-October. Lila: Produces medium size, green fruit. Season: September-October. Don’t confuse this variety with Lula, which is popular Florida variety and commonly used for rootstock. (Lula is cold hardy to 25F) Poncho: Produces medium to large green fruit. Cold hardy to 15F

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Pepper Tree Losing Its Leaves and Apricot Dropping Its Fruits

This is normal fruit drop in apricot. The fruit was mature and ready to be picked and a good wind came along and blew them off of the tree during the night. Q. Our Pepper tree is losing it’s leaves and they are dropping like crazy. Can you tell me what I can do or is this normal this time of year? Also the fruit is dropping off apricot tree. A. Leaf and fruit drop can be from very similar causes, usually some form of stress. This stress can come from temperature extremes, irrigation and soil moisture extremes or wildly fluctuating soil moistures. Unlike leaves, for fruit to stay on the plant or tree the flower needs to be pollinated and the environment should be fruit-friendly.             Even though flowers are modified forms of leaves for fruit to develop then it must include the transfer of pollen from male parts of a flower to female parts of the flower. During this transfer it is best done by insects like bees in those trees and plants requiring pollination by insects (most fruit trees and vegetables).             During pollination (which can cover a period of a couple of weeks in cool weather because the flowers don’t all open at once) it is best if the weather is friendly to pollinators (good temperatures, good humidity and normal winds) as well as pollination. So when the flowers are open you hope for warm weather free from rain and storms. When these conditions vary further and further from ideal then the amount of fruit set may be diminished. Early almond drop in May due to lack of pollination. The yellow almonds have not been pollinated so no nut has formed and the whole nut drops from the tree two months before harvest.             Temperatures after fruit set can play a big factor as well. If temperatures drop really low after fruit set then this can cause fruit to drop early. Some fruit can start to develop from the flower even though it is not pollinated but this fruit will drop from the tree, usually turning yellow first before dropping. The bees may have missed this flower but the flower starts forming the fruit anyway.             Without pollination many fruits cannot develop more than just its juvenile stage and then drop. The fruit tree thins itself in this manner but not enough for our pleasure. This can be normal but should not be all of the fruit. This is called “June drop” which happens in our climate earlier, sometime in late April or early May usually. Plum fruits, if they do not get pollinated, will grow for awhile but eventually yellow and drop from the tree early while pollinated fruit (green here) will continue on to maturity.             In the case of your apricot see if it is natural thinning; small fruit yellow and drop. There should still be some fruit remaining. By the way some apricots do need pollinator trees. I do not know what variety you have but Tomcot, Perfection and Rival are three that might need a pollinator. If it set in previous years then it is a problem that occurred this year such as late freeze, poor conditions for pollination when the flowers were open, irregular watering and some others. Hopefully it is just June drop and you still have plenty of fruit left.             With your California pepper it is most likely irregular or having a streak of hot weather that the plants were not prepared for. Make sure if you get hit with hot weather out of the norm to run them through an irrigation cycle ahead of schedule.

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Plum Tree Loses Its Leaves After Planting

Q. We recently had our back yard landscaped. We had a plum tree planted in the one corner. It did okay for a few days and then it lost all it’s leaves!!! It was getting water. A few sprouts from the base are coming up but nothing else. Is it dead or just been shocked from the transplant? A. I will have to speak in generalities since I have so little to go from.  Usually when a tree is planted and it loses all of its leaves very quickly it is due to some sort of shock.              These shocks can come from leaving the black plastic container in full sunlight for a day where the sun can cook the outside temperature of the container and a portion of the soil in the container to 170° F in our climate; missing an irrigation in the container when it needs it can cause leaf drop in a matter of days; planting a landscape tree from a container into hot or very dry soil can cause root dieback and leaf drop; growing a tree in partial shade and moving it to full sun can cause leaf drop; planting the tree too deeply may cause leaf drop; planting the tree too shallow with the roots exposed can cause leaf drop; putting fertilizer too close to the trunk or roots can cause leaf drop; and there are probably more that I can’t think of right now.              All of these can be termed transplant shock.  The more careful you are in planting trees and shrubs the less shock the plant will have.  If the tree has lost its leaves during severe summer heat than the prognosis is not good and you will probably have severe dieback.              It will be your call as to whether you want to keep the tree or not.  If your growth is coming beneath the graft or dogleg on the trunk at the bottom and pull the plant out and replace it.  Here is how to minimize transplant shock.  •           Have the whole pre dug before you bring the plant home from the nursery. •           Plant the tree or shrub immediately when you get home. •           Never plant into a hot hole or dry hole. •           Plant in the early morning hours not during the day when it is hot or windy. •           Remove the plant from the container and get it into the hole is quickly as possible. •           Never remove the plant from a container by pulling on the stem and the yanking it out. •           Immediately stake the plant after planting making sure the state is driven soundly into the hard soil beneath the planting hole •           Make sure you plant the tree or shrub the same depth that it was in the container. •           Dig the hole deep enough to accommodate the root ball of the plant and no deeper.  Taking the hole wide is better than taking a deep. •           Water the plant in the hole immediately after planting and use a hose for the first week of watering, not the drip system or irrigation system for the initial watering.

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My Beautiful Italian Cypress Was Butchered By A Tree Service

Q. HELP! My 25 year old beautiful Italian Cypress have been butchered by a tree service hired only to top them. How can I save these once beautiful trees. I am sick. I have been hosing them down every morning and deep watering them also.They have many brown areas that have been chopped to the limbs. There is a lot of green but, they do not look well. I can take a picture and send it if it will help garner some advice. Overwatering or overfertilizing or both can cause excessive growth and “floppiness” A. You can send me a picture but frequent water may in fact be hurting the tree. Go back to deeper (12 to 18 inches deep) watering occasionally. Right now perhaps not any more often than once a week at the most.             You can also try to apply some fertilizer lightly, one application only. It does you no good to fertilize over and over. It will put on new growth mostly now and slow down as the summer is concluding.             If the landscape company has cut back the stems into bare wood it is very possible it may not recover. If it does recover because they did not cut too deeply the recovery will be slow. Unfortunately this is a problem when they prune with hedge shears which is ridiculous.              Frequent watering may cause some succulent growth to occur which will not be sturdy and this growth will be “floppy”.             I wish I had better news but you will have to wait and see how the plant responds. But in the meantime water and fertilize normally; water once a week and fertilize once or maybe twice this season. That’s all you can do. Let me know how it turns out.

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Living Windbreaks Use Water – A Major Concern in the Desert

Q. We just moved from Las Vegas to Pahrump We bought a home on an acre of land – I’d send a picture but – to be honest  – its just bare high-desert land As far as we know Pahrump is considered Zone13 (Sunset). We would like your advice on trees for wind barriers. We have been told by locals that there are several pine trees that would make a good wind barrier. Judging by the look of the town, most properties have planted the pines around the perimeter of their properties. After reading SNWA desert planting ideas and other high-desert websites, we thought we would start with the pines and then layer from there (inward) For example:pines fruit or other shade trees large bushes or grasses edible and low bushes finally, low growing plants.  We want to encourage birds, hummingbirds and butterflies and we will add raised beds for veggies. Could you give us your advice on the types of pines and other trees that would grow in this area. Could you please comment on the layering plan or give us some indication which direction we should head? A. I would refer you to a fact sheet I wrote a couple of years ago which can be found at http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2006/fs0688.pdf It basically says that the windbreak will affect an area downwind equal to about five times its height. Windbreaks need to be multilayered when possible with a combination of trees and shrubs. A variety of plants, not just one kind, is more desirable. The biggest mistake I see done in Pahrump is putting a big line of trees right on the border of their property. It just does not make any sense to me. If they need a fence there is a lot of things you can build that don’t require water. If it is a windbreak then it is too far from the living area to be very effective. You need to answer the questions where does the wind come from that you are trying to stop. What time of year is it a problem. Design your outside living area first. Then go ahead and place your plant materials for screening, visual barriers and windbreaks. Windbreaks integrated into your landscape can use smaller plants. Remember big plants use more water than little plants and if you put a whole bunch of trees on the perimeter of the property what good does that do except use up a bunch of water unnecessarily. Plants need to be concentrated near living areas and they need to be part of the outside living area, usually defining the “walls” and “ceilings” of these spaces. Fences on the perimeter of the property may be expensive at the beginning but they are lower maintenance and use less water than a living fence on the perimeter. In the fact sheet I purposely stay away from recommending plant materials. There are plenty of places that can recommend plants for your area including your local garden club, nursery and extension office. The extension office in Pahrump has a great little garden area that demonstrates some plants for the area. They have lists as well. Basic recommendations for trees for the desert are to keep them in scale with the house and property, and put them where they will do the most good and you can appreciate them. Every plant you put in the ground should have a good reason for being there. This is the desert and water is precious. I hope this helps a little. this is a big topic to cover.

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Know When to Harvest and Roast Your Own Almonds

Q. We have a young almond tree that has a great cop of nuts on it.  Questions: 1. How do we know when to harvest?  2.  Is there any special prep needed before eating the nuts? Almonds split and ready for harvest A. Harvest when the outside covering has split open. You can leave them on the tree longer as long as it does not rain. If you have ground squirrels, harvest immediately or they will get them. You can open the husks any time or store this way for a long time if they remain dry. Eat them fresh (my preference) or you can roast them. Bake at 350° or so for 10-12 minutes or until you smell a nutty aroma. Sprinkle with salt or your favorite seasoning if you want. Almond dried on the tree and ready to harvest and sell in the husk             I want to add something here. Years ago when we began harvesting almonds at the Orchard, the volunteers spent very many hours splitting the outside husk open, taking out the nut and getting the nuts ready for the Farmers Market. I had so many complaints from the volunteers about this work that no one would do this anymore. So I told them to take the nuts, husk and all, to the market and sell it that way.             Well what a shock! The people at the Farmers Market LOVED them this way! They would take them home and show their kids where almonds came from and what a surprise the kids had opening them and eating them fresh from inside the husk. And we made more money this way than if we had husked and taken them out of the shell. No more complaints and plus there was much less labor involved.             If you do have almonds, a serious pest you can get is peach twig borer. They will get in the husk AND in some cases find their way to the nut after the husk has split. So get them off of the tree soon after they split sometime in August.

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Is Iris Borer in Southern Nevada?

Hole in iris leaf Q. While cleaning my iris beds this morning, I found quite a surprise.  I hope you can help identify my problem before I have more damage. I put 100% white vinegar in this hole and it foamed up immediately. I hope I didn’t kill my Iris – the hole is right in the middle of the plant.  Further checking revealed that I have these holes in several of my iris beds spread over 1/2 acre.             I also found what looks like a “perfect” 1/4″ round, 1 1/2″ excretion, it is almost black. I’ve checked on the internet and there is nothing that describes a 1″ hole with mounded dirt; the round holes are perfect in the ground and on the leaf.             Some suggest slugs – I have no type of residue and I think they would eat as they go NOT make a round circle in the middle of a leaf. Then cutter bees were mentioned but their holes don’t seem to be as big as these. I will soon be leaving town and I would like to get a handle on this problem before I go. Thanks for any help you may give. A. I hesitated to answer for a bit because I was not quite sure what is going on. My first reaction was iris borer except that this iris pest is not usually a problem here but rather in the Midwest. Hole in the ground near the iris             But it fits the description. They will leave roundish holes in the leaves and they also pupate in the ground so when the moth emerges they leave this fairly large, smooth hole in the ground near the iris.             But you mention no other symptoms of iris borer which also makes me doubt it. Other symptoms would include, in the early stages, the tips of the foliage turning yellow and then brown. As the problem gets worse the base of the stalk may become yellowish-brown and mushy with a bad odor if the attack is severe. This is when rot of the rhizome has started.             If you are digging irises to divide or move them this fall, you may notice holes in rhizomes as well. If you got any of these rhizomes from the Midwest then it is possible they may have been transported here.             I agree that it is also possible that the hole in the leaf could be from slugs although, as you pointed out, you are not using any surface mulch which they like. The hole in the ground could be from an insect like the cicada killer, a large wasp that is yellow with black stripes, not very threatening to humans but can deliver a severe sting if provoked. Normally cicada killers will not bother you but they do have a very large hole in the ground that fits this description and the picture you sent.             I will post both of your pictures on my blog. But first I would check to make sure it is not iris borer when you dig up some iris this fall for inspection. If you see some iris with foliage that is yellowing or dying back I would dig and look here first.             Look for holes in the rhizome or even possibly mushy rhizomes. I would discard these and hopefully you will see no other problems. If you do not conclude it is iris borer then I would assume it is a cicada killer and not be concerned about it. Watch for slugs and put out some slug bait or stale beer for them.

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Palm Tree Fronds Dying at the Bottom

Q. We have a couple of fan palms whose fronds are continually dying off from the lower level.  Is this normal or are they lacking in something i.e., water, nutrients, etc. Readers palm tree A. I looked at the picture of your fan palm. In this case, yes, this is natural. The fronds grow from a central bud located at the top end of the trunk. All of the new growth for a palm tree comes from this bud. If the bud dies, the trunk is dead. If the palm has one trunk then the tree is dead.             As these new fronds emerge from the bud, the older fronds (the ones at the bottom) begin to die. Normally you would expect the fronds at the bottom to die in this manner. First they will begin to yellow and then eventually they die. As these lower fronds yellow, it is then an appropriate time to remove them. Palm trunk skinned             I like to cut the fronds as close to the trunk as I can leaving very little stub coming from the trunk. Some people remove the stub even closer to the trunk, at its point of attachment to the trunk, by cutting with a sharp knife (box cutter or linoleum knife) at the point where the frond attaches to the trunk. This is called “skinning” which results in a very smooth trunk which some people like. It also lessens the chances of having bark scorpions living and looking for food on the trunk.             You can remove these older dying fronds any time of the year. If you elect to remove green fronds then remove green fronds that are only in the total shade of its canopy. You can also do this any time of year as well but best done during the summer or late spring months.

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Tropical Bird of Paradise Tough to Pull Off in the Desert

Q. How do I plant and care for the “Tropical Bird of Paradise” in the desert? Growing Tropical Bird of Paradise in the Desert A. These are those very pretty flowering plants with banana-like leaves you see in San Diego or other places where it does not freeze. Tropical bird of paradise, as its name indicates and you are probably aware, will not handle any freezing temperatures. So this is a plant which has to be protected during the wintertime from extreme cold and winter winds.             The plant itself can handle temperatures to the mid twenty’s for a short time but the flowers cannot. If flowers or flower buds are present it cannot be subjected to any freezing temperatures at all. This means you can grow it in containers or in the ground provided you take the time and cover it or move it into a protected area to keep it from freezing.           The second very important item is modification of the soil. Our desert soils will be brutal to tropical bird of paradise but not impossible provided they are amended appropriately. This means you will need to heavily amend any local soil with about 50 to 75% manure-based compost. After planting, the soil should be covered with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as wood chips but not bark mulch.           Fertilize with manure-based or slow release fertilizers every three months during the growing season. Make sure they are planted with an eastern exposure in filtered shade and not subjected to intense afternoon sunlight.

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Sharp Thorns on Grapefruit Might Very Well BE Grapefruit

Q. I read your answer few weeks ago to questions concerning sharp thorns on branches growing from the base of an orange tree. I have a Rio Red Grapefruit semi dwarf tree which is about 3 feet tall. The main trunk is topped buy 3 branches spreading out in different directions. One of the branches has several sharp thorns on it as well as soft thorns to very soft thorns on it. The other branches do not have sharp thorns. My questions are 1) should this branch be removed or is this a normal occurrence and 2) will the sharp thorns soften in time?  A. Robert passed this to me and before an answer can be given we need to make sure of something . . . The branches with thorns, are you 100% certain they are not a shoot arising from the rootstock? . . Follow it back to where its connected to the trunk and if it arises from down low near or below the soil line then cut it off as it is a rootstock sucker. . .  Otherwise, many Citrus shoots have thorns that start out soft, become rigid and then, over time most get absorbed back into the plant with maturity. . . . The thorns invariably are on vigorous vegetative shoots that need a period of time before they convert to flowering and fruit producing tissue . . . If the branch isn’t hanging near where people walk by and could get stabbed then let the branches go . . Over time they will change from the vigorous to the more sedate fruit producing wood and the thorns will be but a memory . .  But first make sure the branch(es) with the thorns aren’t from the rootstock . . . You do understand the cost for this advice is for you to share those beautiful Rio Reds with friends and neighbors. . .  Terry Mikel

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