Xtremehorticulture

Ornamental Pear a Good Choice But Needs Special Soil Preparation at Planting

Q. We recently planted a fruitless Bradford Pear tree in the place of a tree that was dead. It is in good soil which I mixed with planting dirt from Star Nursery, where we purchased the tree. It was in a 15 gallon pot and is about 10 feet tall in the ground, so I would think it is possibly two to three years old. I realise this is not the best time of year to put a tree in the  ground, but hope that it’s maturity will give it a good start. We had a number of these trees in our yard from new when we lived in Texas and they did very well in the heat there. So I wonder if you have any advice or tips for us now we have one here in Nevada. We did do the ‘call before you dig’. Any advice etc will be really appreciated A. Ornamental pear varieties like Bradford, Chanticleer and others perform reasonably well in our desert keeping in mind they are not desert plants. I have watched them growing for many years along Maryland Parkway in front of the Boulevard Mall and across the street from it.             They have beautiful blooms in the spring and a nice round, dense canopy provided they are planted and maintained properly. They probably should not go into the hottest part of the landscape with a lot of reflected heat.             With this in mind they will never perform well for any length of time in a rock mulch landscape. They may do okay growing in rock mulch for a few years but after about five years the leaves will begin to yellow and scorch, the canopy will thin, and branches will die back.             When this happens, it will be open to borer attacks, the same kind that attack other fruit trees. These trees should be planted in an organic mulch such as wood chips which decompose and add valuable organic material back to the soil.         Ornamental pears should be planted with lots of organic material in the planting hole, they need to be staked solidly for the first growing season. After the first growing season they should be firmly established in the soil.             Fertilize them once a year just like you would any other fruit tree. Use a well balanced fertilizer with the three numbers the same such as 8-8-8, 10-10-10, etc or fertilizers sprayed on the foliage 3 to 4 times after the leaves emerge before it gets hot. They will benefit from periodic applications of iron because they will get yellowing from iron chlorosis.             I like to divide our landscapes into three water use zones; high water use, moderate water use and low water use. These water use zones represent the total amount and frequency of water applied.             These trees could easily go into the high or moderate water use zones but never the low water use zone. The watering frequency would be the same as other large trees and shrubs as you would apply water under the canopy so that at least half the area under the canopy is wetted to a depth of 18 inches.

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Sharp and Soft Thorns on Rio Red Grapefruit a Problem?

Q. I read your answer few weeks ago to questions concerning sharp thorns on branches growing from the base of an orange tree. I have a Rio Red Grapefruit semi dwarf tree which is about 3 feet tall. The main trunk is topped buy 3 branches spreading out in different directions. One of the branches has several sharp thorns on it as well as soft thorns to very soft thorns on it. The other branches do not have sharp thorns. My questions are 1) should this branch be removed or is this a normal occurrence and 2) will the sharp thorns soften in time?  A. Robert passed this to me and before an answer can be given we need to make sure of something . . . The branches with thorns, are you 100% certain they are not a shoot arising from the rootstock? . . Follow it back to where its connected to the trunk and if it arises from down low near or below the soil line then cut it off as it is a rootstock sucker. . .  Otherwise, many Citrus shoots have thorns that start out soft, become rigid and then, over time most get absorbed back into the plant with maturity. . . . The thorns invariably are on vigorous vegetative shoots that need a period of time before they convert to flowering and fruit producing tissue . . . If the branch isn’t hanging near where people walk by and could get stabbed then let the branches go . . Over time they will change from the vigorous to the more sedate fruit producing wood and the thorns will be but a memory . .  But first make sure the branch(es) with the thorns aren’t from the rootstock . . . You do understand the cost for this advice is for you to share those beautiful Rio Reds with friends and neighbors. . .  Terry Mikel

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I Feel Really Bad for Sue and Her Grapes Frying After Dipel

Q. I e-mailed you awhile ago about issues with my grapes.  The GOOD news is, I had been pruning them totally wrong.  Following cane pruning instructions off of YouTube, in February I had more vines and grape clusters than since we moved in.  The bad news is that I was so excited about the grapes and worried about the pests (big black things and skeletonizers?) I followed your instructions and used Dipel Dust (just once) for prevention.  Everything was fantastic until two weeks ago.  I had beautiful green grape leaves and so many clusters of grapes and on the turn of a dime…everything fried and I mean I hardly have a leaf and the clusters are practically burnt raisins now if anything.  I am so sad.  What did I do wrong do you think?  My intuition is telling me that the Dipel, like other pesticides I have tried, burn the leaves in the sun when it gets into the high 90’s?  Ugh, I am so bummed.  Anyhow, let me know what you think.  Thank you so much. Sue A. I rather doubt it was the Dipel if you applied according to the label. I usually use the liquid form of Dipel or Thuricide when I use it. Or I will use Spinosad instead which does the same thing but hits a few more insects including the skeletonizers. This is Dipel DF or dry flowable and intended to be mixed with water, not applied as a dust. Please read the label before applying any pesticide. Regardless you still would want to apply any pesticide even if it is organic like Dipel, in the early morning hours or late afternoon when it is no longer hot outside. Dipel powder is hard to distribute evenly over a grape vine while the liquid form is much easier to spray as is spinosad. We use both products at the orchard and have had no problems with it when sprayed this time of year even around 8 or 9 am. I would next time though stick with a liquid product. It will give you better coverage over the leaf, both top and bottom, and is easier to apply. You should not be using the Dipel dust. Make sure you did not apply the Dipel DF as a dust. It is meant to be mixed in water and sprayed on. Has anyone else had this problem with Dipel on grapes? I would love to know. Please check the label before using just in case.

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Branches Dying in Elm Probably Not Dutch Elm Disease

Elm leaf beetle damage Q. I have about 10 elm trees and my neighbor has 4 or 5. The branches seem like they just die. This pass year I lost 2 complete trees. I have been told there is a elm airborn disease. Can you please tell if that is true and what can I do about it? A. There is no airborne disease of elms that you have to worry about. I think there is some confusion about Dutch Elm Disease and these trees. Siberian elms are not as susceptible to DED as some other elms which are not planted here anyway.             Most of the elms here are Siberian elms, an inferior elm for landscape purposes. By the way, one of my favorite large trees is Chinese or Evergreen elm, a very nice tree that grows well in our climate with very few problems.              The usual disease problem we see on Siberian elm is a relatively harmless disease called slime flux. This is a bacterial disease which invades the wood and causes basically fermentation inside the trunk and large limbs. ooze from the bacteria is pushed out of the trunk or limbs and weeps down the side of the tree frequently from a pruning cut. If you get close to this ooze it will smell like fermentation or yeasty. Wetwood or slime flux comig from pruning cut             This smell frequently attracts flies to the ooze. It is thought that the flies can pick up this bacterial contamination and spread it to new wounds on several trees besides Siberian elm. If we see this particular disease on the tree we usually ignore it since it really does not cause any long term ill effects.             As far as insects go the worst problem is elm leaf beetle which skeletonizes the leaf. We usually ignore this too since it usually does not cause severe damage to the tree but does cause the leaves to become unsightly. These trees are tall/large with the leaves very high in the air so damage to them is usually ignored. It would be very costly to spray these trees to control this problem.             The last problem we have had with Siberian elm is when older landscapes with these elms growing in lawns is converted to rock landscapes. Frequently there is not enough water applied for these trees to continue to be healthy and the branches die back due to lack of water and a poorly designed irrigation system for the elm to survive.

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Bird Scaring Tactics to Keep Them Out of Your Fruit Trees

Q. Do you know where we can get the shiny silvery streamers for our fruit trees? The birds are upon us, (or them). We have the mesh covering, but would like to try something different.  If there’s anything else you can suggest, we would appreciate that as well. Thanks for your help. An electronic bird scaring device A. We have tried streamers, tinsel, CD’s, DVD’s, (no VHS tapes yet), electronic bird scaring devices (which work for about two weeks when in constant use) and not much seems to work over the long run. Scaring devices MAY work over the short haul if discontinued after a couple of weeks and restarted again next season. But if you expect something to keep birds out of fruit trees for months at a time you will be very disappointed. The best is netting the trees but the netting must be attached firmly to the ground with no entry points or the birds will find it. You would net the trees about two weeks before the fruit is ready. They don’t seem to bother fruit until they get to a certain stage of ripeness unless they are REAL hungry. That being said.. try…. http://www.groworganic.com/weed-pest-control/animal-bird-control/bird-control.html

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Growing Garlic Ten Commandments

Morado Gigante garlic Remember that in our climate, the desert Southwest, Mojave Desert, plant garlic in late September to the end of October. You can go later and we have and it usually turns out fine but this is the best time. Prepare the soil well with well-rotted organic matter (compost) and use lots of phosphorus (bone meal) in the bed. You can plant both hardneck and softneck varieties. Varieties to include might be Red Toche, Susanville, Polish White, Giant Morado, Tuscan, Red Janice, California Early, and many others. Most will work well here. – Extremehort From http://www.thegarlicstore.com/ 10. Always start with quality planting stock. Plant the biggest cloves – they yield the biggest bulbs (Eat the smaller ones!) 9. Planting in fall is best (though people have reported good luck with early spring planting). Full sun preferred. 7. Garlic likes friable soil, near neutral pH, with some composted manure. Incorporate a little bone meal at planting. And thou shalt not covet thy neighbor’s bulbils. 6. Plant cloves about 5-6 inches apart and 2-3 inches deep. 5. Mulch your garlic (straw, alfalfa, leaves, etc.) 4. Keep soil moist (don’t let it dry out during the winter) 3. Garlic hates weeds. 2. Harvest when lower half of leaves have largely turned brown. 1. Be sure to cure your garlic by hanging it in a shady, well ventilated place for 2-3 weeks.

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Fruitless Olive Not Always Fruitless

Q. Last fall we planted an olive tree that was certified to be non-fruit blooming. Now, it is full of olives! I just want it to grow. So, should we pluck the little olives off the tree so it can put its energy into growth? Olives forming on “fruitless” olive A. Yes, this can happen. Fruitless varieties like Swan Hill are grafted on to an olive rootstock. The top of the tree is fruitless but the bottom of the trunk below the location of the graft is not. Sometimes in the nursery the tops of some fruitless olives die back leaving the rootstock (a fruiting olive) that grows instead.             The dead top (fruitless) is unknowingly pruned out or removed. The rootstock grows very rapidly and replaces the dead fruitless part of the plant. This has been documented in the nurseries.             This can result in a fruiting olive tree. Sometimes the tags get mixed up in the nursery as well and a fruiting variety is labeled a fruitless variety by accident. I would not remove the olives. It would be far to laborious and time consuming and the small benefit you would get is not worth the effort. There are some great olive recipes that you could experiment with.

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Mesquite Tree Can Bleed Profusely When Cut

Mesquite tree with sap running down from a pruning cut Q. This is about mesquite trees of which I have two in my front yard. Last fall I had both trees trimmed quite drastically by a recommended tree service. They are coming back very nicely except one limb is dripping what I thought was oil; a dark stain looking like oil or tar.              At first, I thought the gardeners had dripped oil over the rocks and over my lantern with their equipment.  Then I looked up!  I don’t know what to do about this; I clean up the area as best I can and within a week, it looks like it had never been cleaned. Is this something I should worry about, or should I just keep on cleaning?  Only one limb on one tree is doing this. A. Mesquite trees can bleed quite profusely when they have been cut. This is nothing to worry about and it should stop by now.             Out of curiosity you might just take your finger to this sap and smell it. If it has a strong yeasty smell and it attracts flies it’s possible it could be a relatively minor disease problem called Wetwood or slime flux. I just mention this because it is more of a curiosity than anything else.             There is really not much you can do about this disease and it should not have any long-lasting effects on the health of the plant. This is not true of this disease and a couple of others but mesquite it should be no problem. It is going to be unsightly.             If the liquid persists, it is possible to drill a hole at the bottom of where it is leaking and    tap in a 2 or 3 inch tube into the hole so that the liquid runs down and out the tube, not down the side of the tree. Make sure all is sterile when puncturing or putting a hole or cut into plants.

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Citrus Fruit Cocktail Tree A Good Idea?

Q. My husband bought a tree with each branch a different citrus fruit: lemon, lime and 2 different oranges. I have never heard all these fruits on 1 tree. What do you think? A. The tree you bought is called a Cocktail Tree where they bud different types of citrus onto one rootstock . . It seems to be a great idea but rarely works out because on of the varieties inevitably becomes dominate and shunts the other varieties. Also, they rarely tell which variety of the type is used so it is a pig in a poke purchase.  A trick that really works, especially if your space is limited is to buy two or three trees, one each of your favorite type  (orange, grapefruit, lime or whatever citrus you like) and then plant the individual plants all in the same hole . . They all stay on their own rootstock and the dominance issue is negated. And, you can pick your favorite type and variety of that type. People have been successful using this technique for years. It might be a bit more expensive initially but this trick works and the Cocktail Trees have a poor track record. I hope this helps . . Good luck. Terry Mikel

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