Xtremehorticulture

Black Spots on Octopus Agave Leaves

Q. Is there something we need to do for these spots on the leaves of my octopus agave? A. I think this is a fungal disease that favors a higher humidity than we normally have in the desert. The disease was caused and spread by the rain and wind that we had earlier. You don’t want any fungal disease spreading to the mainstem. To prevent that, you can apply a common landscape fungicide to the cactus after you have a repeat of the rain and wind event. Watch your weather app. If your weather app says the rain is returning, apply the landscape fungicide the day after it occurs. Broad-based landscape fungicides are meant to prevent the spread of many different types of disease. Fruit and vegetable growers use copper-based fungicides as a protectant for many different kinds of foliar diseases. To be used effectively, and like most fungicides, they must be applied before the presence of disease. Organic fungicides are the only organic option worthwhile against diseases such as late blight and downy mildew. Think tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potatoes. These diseases have the ability to kill plants. Copper is also an essential nutrient for plants but use it sparingly. Copper fungicides, like this one from Bonide, help prevent widespread infections of many more diseases when they are caught early enough. When used occasionally, copper is also an essential minor element for plants. In the meantime, prune out any black “spots” or lesions that you see in the stems. I think these are fungal lesions with dormant fungi waiting for the next rain event to make it active again. Sanitize between any cuts to eliminate re-infecting the plant. Use 70% ethyl alcohol to sanitize a knife or pruning shears. Using both the fungicide after wet weather and cutting out the black spots helps eliminate future problems. Make sure you’re not overwatering it and improve soil drainage around its roots. Octopus agave originates in the Sonoran Desert of Mexico therefore it doesn’t like getting watered too often. For instance, it will not survive in a lawn. Take it off the irrigation controller and hand water with a hose. Watering these plants once with a hose only gets the water 3 or 4 inches deep. Water these plants five times a year; only three or four times during the summer and once during the winter. The soil must be dry between waterings!

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Agave with Black Spots on Leaves

Q. I cut out the leaves with the large black spots and lesions on my agave.  There are a few leaves with fairly small black dots speckling all over the underside (too many to cut out), should I cut off the entire leaf? Additionally, there is another photo showing the edge of the leaf that’s kind of perforated – is this age or some kind of bug/mite/disease? Agave with black spots A. I think this is a fungal disease that favors higher humidity than we normally have in the desert. The disease was caused and spread by the rain and wind that we had earlier. You don’t want that fungal disease spreading to the mainstem. To prevent that, you can apply a common landscape fungicide to the cactus if you think there is going to be a repeat of the rain and wind. Watch your weather app. If your weather app says the rain is returning, apply the landscape fungicide. In the meantime prune out any black spots that you see in the stems.  I would sanitize between any cuts to eliminate those black spots that you make. Use 70% ethyl alcohol to sanitize a knife or pruning shears. Both the fungicide during wet weather and cutting out the black spots will help eliminate problems.  Octopus agave originates in the Sonoran Desert of Mexico and Arizona. Make sure you’re not watering too often. Get it off of the irrigation controller and hand water with a hose. If you using a hose, water these plants five times a year; three or four times during the summer. Water with a hose three or four times each time you water these plants to get the water 12 to 18 inches deep as it gets bigger. Otherwise the water will only get three or 4 inches deep if you water them only once. Once you establish how often to water, don’t deviate from that except for the seasons. The number of minutes stays the same. How many times you water each month changes…that’s all. The leaves of agave won’t totally die back to the stem when part of their leaf is cut. It will just sit there, usually edged with brown where it has been cut. If it doesn’t look “funnier” and out of balance, I would suggest removing the leaves entirely. Your call. It is up to you if cutting the leaves of agave is acceptable or not. Some people don’t mind. Others do. Remember that fungicides prevent fungal diseases from getting worse. Right now, the humidity is above 15% so I don’t expect diseases to get any worse unless the plant is in poor health. I would recommend “dusting” the leaves with a fungicide dust to prevent the spread of those black spots that you are talking about. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP154 Most fungicides are liquid now and not a dust. Dusts were more popular 50 years ago. If the fungicide exists as a spray, it is a different formulation from a dust. Read the directions. An alternative to dusts is to spray over the black spots as “insurance” to keep the disease from spreading if the weather or plant health changes. If it rains again, reapply the fungicide within 24 hours after it stops raining.

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Older Agave Yellowing and Not Looking Healthy

Q. My agave is 10 years old and just isn’t looking healthy. I’m afraid of losing it and the surrounding plants. Can’t figure out if it’s too much or too little water. Your expertise would be appreciated. Not a whole lot of information but I am guessing it’s a watering issue. Agaves are usually from the desert Southwest. But it could be agave weevil that damaged the plant earlier in the year. A. Most problems with agaves are from boring into the trunk and roots by the agave weevil and less to do with water. Eventually the immature forms of this insect tunnel into the base and trunk of susceptible plants. Look for them. Agave weevils give birth through their eggs to destructive smaller grubs about 3/8 inch long. They infest the trunk and roots of agave and a few yucca. Look for their damage on older plants later in the year. This is one of the many types of American agaves showing collapse of the leaves due to probably agave weevil. All agaves should have a systemic insecticide applied by spray or soil drench in the spring, no later than March or early April. With spray insecticides it’s important to spray the lower leaves and the surrounding soil at this time. With soil drench insecticides it’s important to apply it to the soil immediately around the plant at the appropriate time. American agave, in particular, is very susceptible to this pest. Be sure the appropriate insecticide is used by reading the label. Example of a liquid garden systemic insecticide that gives at least a couple of months control of insects (picture taken from Amazon)             The agave weevil lays its eggs in susceptible agaves and some yucca when temperatures begin warming in the spring. These eggs are laid by the agave weevil inside the lower leaves, close to the trunk, around that time. A single application of a systemic insecticide is needed around that time. I don’t know of any proven organic methods that control this insect.             If you are still concerned about watering and drainage, make sure that these plants are not watered daily. All perennial plants need the soil to drain away from their roots. Some plants like agave and cacti should never be planted at the bottom of a ridge. Tops are usually okay but not bottoms. Too much water accumulates in those low spots for agave. Other plants may need a continuous moist soils not most agaves and other plants that originate from the desert Southwest.

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Parrys Agave Good Choice for Mojave Desert Landscapes

Parry’s Agave Andrea Meckley, Certified Horticulturist [email protected]   Description:  Evergreen succulent Mature size: 2’x 2’ Flower:  with aged plants Water use:  low Exposure:  all day sun Origin:  Arizona, New Mexico, and Northern Mexico Parry’s Agave Hardy:  to 5 degrees F Uses:  Landscape accent plant, potted plant One of the many hardy agave species for our southwest landscapes and gardens is Parry’s agave (Agave parryii).  The grey green leaves grow slowly as a compact rosette.  Adding interest are patterns of indentations of previous leaves showing on the back of each new leaf.   In late spring to early summer old Parry’s agaves, 20 years or more, produce a twelve-foot stalk of blooms that can grow four inches a day. Hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers which begin as red or pink buds, opening to a bright yellow bouquet.  The plant dies after blooming but during its lifetime produces offsets assuring more plants will replace the original.   Planted in groups or alone this plant is attractive in the succulent garden, in pots, or in the landscape.

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