Xtremehorticulture

Aphids Overwinter near the Soil on Many Plants

Q. I have a small crape myrtle tree with leaves that were constantly wet this year. The ground and plants underneath were always wet. Now that the leaves are gone. I can see the branches are also wet. Another tree I have is perfectly dry and normal. What’s causing this and how can I correct it? A. This “wetness” was caused by one of the leaf sucking insects, most likely aphids. If you inspect this “wetness” I think you’ll find it is shiny and sticky as well as wet. It probably attracts flies, bees and other insects. Common occurrence in late fall and early winter before leaves drop are “wet leaves” due to aphids feeding.             Aphids suck plant juices from the leaves and then exude a shiny, sugary liquid that drops on the leaves, limbs and plants below it. There are about 4000 different kinds of aphids and about 10% of them cause problems to our plants.             In the eastern US they have a special aphid, called the crape myrtle aphid, that causes these problems only on crape myrtle. Several aphids specialize only on certain plants. But there are also aphids which are general feeders and infest a variety of different plants as well. In the spring, aphids feeding on new leaves cause the leaves to distort from their feeding. Leaves that have fully developed won’t demonstrate this when aphids feed on them.             Aphids are a huge problem because they reproduce rapidly in the spring without the help of male aphids. Later in the season, females can be found with wings and fly from plant to plant giving birth to living young wherever there are succulent young leaves nearby. If you don’t get them under control, they can spread.             To add to this problem, ants pick them up and distribute them as well because they like the sugary liquid they produce from sucking plant sap. Controlling ants in the spring is one way to reduce their spread in the spring. Good reason to clean up your garden area of weeds is to prevent aphids from staying the winter on these plants. They will huddle on the lowest leaves or stem in loose soil or mulch at the soil surface.             There are lots of predatory insects and even fungi that attack them during the growing season, but their reproduction and spread is so rapid that these biological controls can’t keep up with their rapidly increasing numbers.             I guarantee there are winged females and overwintering eggs hidden at the base of woody plants and tucked into nooks and crannies on the trunk and stems.             What to do? Spray both trees with dormant oil this winter to suffocate both the eggs and the overwintering females. These dormant oils are made from paraffin or mineral oil. Neem oil, although it might be effective, is not a dormant oil.             Select a warm day, without wind and the sun shining, for spraying. Mix the dormant oil with water at the rate recommended on the label. The oil is emulsified and can be diluted with water for spraying.             Spray the trees from top to bottom, covering the trunk and all the limbs. They like to overwinter at the base of plants where it’s out of the weather so spray there as well. Remove weeds where they can hide during the winter.

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Spray Oils Effective in Aphid Control

Q. My 30 foot tall live oak tree is covered with aphids. Should you spray now or will the aphids die if the weather gets cold? Aphids on southern Live Oak A. Aphids overwinter at the base of trees and weeds nearby. Their populations are much smaller, but they are there. Eliminate weeds and apply “dormant oil” to the tree twice; once in December and again in January before new growth begins.             Dormant oil is a holdover name from decades ago when forms of this oil were safe to apply only during the winter. You might find this product now with names like horticultural oil, superior oil, supreme oil and others. Oil for spraying in a pint container. This company has chosen to call it a horticultural oil.             These newer oils are different. These are not vegetable oil or neem oil used as insecticides but a different type of oil that “smothers” overwintering bugs. I have used these newer oils in the fall, spring and even early summer months as long as the plants are not flowering. This oil for commercial use is in 2 1/2 gallon container. This company chose to call it Ultra Pure Oil             Ants and aphids rely on each other. Controlling ants helps control the spread of aphids and keeps them in check. Controlling ants when aphids are problems is an important component when controlling aphids. I like to use ant bait products like Amdro applied exactly as the label says. One of the ant baits supplied by Amdro             Don’t worry about small numbers of aphids on trees if you eliminated weeds and controlled their ant buddies. Leave them alone unless there is some problem you can’t live with. If the ant problem is intolerable, apply soap sprays, neem oil or a systemic insecticide if it’s a bad problem. But don’t go in that direction unless you must.

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Sunflowers Can Be Critter Magnets

Q. After this last rain and gusty winds some sunflower leaves are scorched. The sunflowers are 3 feet tall, sown from seeds saved from last year. The leaf scorching runs between the veins but not on all the plants.  Is this normal after this kind of weather? A. This had nothing to do with the weather. Look at the bottom of the leaves. Sunflowers are notorious bug traps. If this scorching is from bug damage, you will find lots of bugs feeding on the bottom side of the leaves. Bottom leaves of sunflowers beginning to scorch showing signs of pest problems on the underside Bug damage is noticed on the lowest leaves first and progresses up the plant. Usually insecticidal soap sprays applied to the bottom of the leaves kill these critters but will not repair the damage they created. If the lower leaves turned yellow, it could be from not enough nitrogen fertilizer. If they are 3 feet tall, they have already removed a lot of nutrients from the soil to get that large. Feed them once a month with fertilizer or they will run out of food, the lower leaves turning yellow and scorching. Checking on the undersides of the leaves we can see aphids beginning to colonize, perhaps placed there by ants moving them into virgin territory Another possibility is irrigation or damage from salts. They go hand-in-hand since water washes salt from around the roots and pushes it deeper. Little plants only require small amounts of water. Big plants require more water so make sure they are getting enough water and it is applied often enough. Improve the soil at the time of planting with compost, feed the plants regularly with a fertilizer, water them enough and check for bugs. Then they will be healthier.

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Remove Bottom Leaves in Cabbage to Reduce Pest Problems

Q. What can I use for bugs on my cabbage now? A. The usual bugs on cabbage are aphids, whiteflies or cabbage looper. First off, remove the bottom leaves on the plants near the ground. They are nearly in full shade and no longer contribute much to the plant. Cabbage leaves too close to the ground and cannot be sprayed on the underside. Most bugs will collect on the undersides of the leaves. Once the lower leaves are removed it is easier to spray the bottom of the leaves, pointing the nozzle upwards. These leaves are close to the ground, the underside is a great place for bugs to hide from predators and impossible to spray. In older plants they are tough so you will need to cut them off. These insects also like to gather between leaves at the base. This is where you find cabbage looper eggs deposited. This is the white butterfly that likes to hang around cabbage and cabbage related vegetables, lay eggs that hatch into green worms that chew holes in the leaves. A sure sign of insect problems are holes in the leaves. The plants should be sprayed at the first sign. Cabbage butterfly lays its eggs deep inside the crevices of the leaves. This area needs Bt or Spinosad sprays or dust. You should have on hand at three to five of these organic sprays; insecticidal soap, Neem oil, Bt, pyrethrin and Spinosad and a good pump sprayer. Soap sprays will be used most often; twice a week. The others are applied less often, usually as needed. Spray on top of the leaves as well as the undersides where most insects will hide and feed. Bt sprays like Dipel or Thuricide are used against pests whose adult forms are moths such as the cabbage looper. This spray or dust is applied between the leaves and left undisturbed for a few days so it can work. Some insecticides say Bt right on the label while others may say Dipel, Thuricide or worm or caterpillar killer. Whiteflies are controlled with insecticidal soap, pyrethrum or Spinosad sprayed alternately, a few days apart. Sprays need to be directed at the pests so it must be applied to tops and bottoms of leaves. A popular brand of insecticidal soap After harvest you will still have bugs in the cabbage and other leafy greens. A rinse in a clean sink with water containing 1 tablespoon of household bleach per gallon will kill any bugs remaining. Rinse all vegetables with clean water before preparing them.

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Shiny Leaf Sheen on Roses May Be Aphids Feeding

Q. There’s a glossy sheen on my rose leaves that’s not suppose to be there. I have the problem every year and I usually just give them a good spray with the hose and that helps but doesn’t seem to be the cure. Any suggestions that don’t involve chemicals? A. I think what you are seeing may be some residue from some feeding insects on roses. These insects excrete (release) a sugary substance from their feeding that falls on plant parts like leaves. Aphids on unopened rose buds/flowers. They feed on plant sap. They use the sugars in plants sap as a food source for energy. The remaining sugars are excreted from the aphids where they cause a shiny sheen on leaves that is sticky. This attracts ants and bees. If this is what you are seeing it should be slightly sticky and may attract ants and bees that will collect this residue for feeding. These insects pull out plant sap that contains sugars for their own feeding and there is so much of it in the plant sap that their excretion contains a lot of sugars. Insects that release this kind of “honeydew” as it is sometimes called include aphids, scale insects, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Roses aren’t the only plants these insects feed on. We will seed them on most trees, shrubs and even pines. Aphids on undersides of pepper leaves Repeat applications of soap and water sprays will usually control them until hot weather comes. High temperatures are not a good thing for insects like aphids and help to keep them under control until the cool fall weather sets in when we may see them again.

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Black Spots on Watermelon Leaves Could Be Several Different Insects

Q. I have attempted to grow watermelons for the first time last summer and everything was looking good until it got hot. These tiny black specks appeared on the back of some of the leaves.  I was told it was aphids but they weren’t sure.  I hope you can see them clearly from the picture I’ve attached. Should I use insecticidal soap as recommended or something else?  A. I tried to magnify the picture so I could see the black spots better. I was curious if these were in fact from insects or not. I could not see it clearly but whatever it was, it appeared that it was no longer a problem and the leaves seemed nice and healthy.             Aphids are cool weather insects and so when the heat hit they should have disappeared. The big insect problems for you on watermelon would be aphids earlier in the season during cool weather, squash bugs shortly after planting and whiteflies (during the heat).             Yellow sticky traps can provide a method to determine if whiteflies are a problem or not. I will post a short video on my blog on how to make these rather than buy them. They are handy to place in the garden for insect monitoring.             Soap and water sprays are good but must be done about every three or four days and the underside of the leaves must be sprayed as well. Squash bugs are nasty and can be vacuumed or hand-picked or delay planting by seed until after June 1. If you are hand picking or vacuuming squash bugs then be diligent for about three or four weeks and keeping the plants cleaned off every couple of days by hand until mid-June to avoid most of the problems with this insect.       Thanks to Garry Pearson, Lead Greenhouse Managerat UC Davis CAES,                 Department of Vegetable Crops, during his presentations on greenhouses in Afghanistan.

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Problems With Ants in Our Fruit!

Q. Can you recommend a pesticide to protect backyard grown fruit trees from ants? They are crawling up the trunks and they get to the fruit before the birds even have a chance let alone us! Aphids on the bottom of an apricot leaf. The honeydew from these aphids is “milked” by ants for their sugary energy. Control the aphids = control the ants. A. The ants are usually going up the tree and into the leaves for honeydew from aphids at first. They seldom attack fruit that is firm but usually attack fruit that is already soft. Because they are after honeydew (the excrement from aphids which is really leaf sap full of sugars) the ripe fruits are a natural place for them to look for additional sugars.             There are a couple of things you can do. First is to find and treat the ant nests in the ground. Follow these critters back to where they are coming from and pick up some Amdro from Lowes or Home Depot. Treat the ant nest in the ground. It is not a problem to use around fruit trees.             Secondly, spray the fruit tree with insecticidal soap to reduce the aphid population. You will have to do this multiple times, perhaps once a week since soaps do not have any staying power and only kill insects it comes in contact with.             Thirdly is to harvest the fruits (peaches, plums, apricots, pluots) early when they are still firm and not soft. Let them ripen at room temperature in the house and they will still be very high in sugars and taste great. This is usually about a week before they are fully ripe on the tree.             If you do not know when this is then this year mark it on your calendar so next year you will know. Or you can simply taste a firm fruit after it has turned color. When it is sweet but still firm then pick the ones that are ready and stay ahead of the ants and birds.

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