Xtremehorticulture

Loss of Bark on Ornamental Plum Due To Borers

Q. I have a flowering plum which I first noticed this morning has a problem with loss of bark on the west side of the trunk. My yard faces south. What should I do? Borer damage to ornamental plum on the west side of the trunk A. This is borer damage to the trunk. You can read more about this insect and the type of damage it does to ornamental and fruit trees and how to correct it from the links below. Your picture was extremely helpful but the other thing that keyed be in was that you said it was on the west side of the trunk. This is the side of the trunk getting very hot in the late afternoon. Heating up on this side from the sun leads to sun damage. Sun damage to the trunk attracts boring insects. They like to lay their eggs on these kinds of damaged sites. Concentrated form for commercial applicators and professionals Since you are not eating the fruit of this tree you can apply a liquid soil drench insecticide. This product comes in several trade names so I cannot list them all but the key chemical ingredient is Imidacloprid. This will be listed in the active ingredients. Homeowner version found in many nurseries and garden centers Follow the label directions and apply it after it finishes blooming.  Otherwise take a clean knife and clean up the damaged area and let it heal as explained in the posts on my blog below. http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2015/08/identifying-their-damage-and.html http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/02/mechanical-control-of-borers-in-fruit.html

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Tree Died. Planting in the Same Hole.

Q. I have a major borer problem with my nectarine tree. I will be removing it and replanting. Do I need to treat the soil before I plant another tree? A. No. The borers that are problems in our climate (Pacific flatheaded borer or Flatheaded apple tree borer) do not enter the soil during any part of their life cycle. The borer you may be thinking of is the peach tree borer which we do not have in Southern Nevada but is common in more northern climates.  Adult Pacific flat headed borer picture from Oregon State University The peach tree borer does not actually enter the ground either but can be found low on the trunk near the soil level which makes you think it does. Both of these borers spend their entire life cycle either in the air as a beetle (our borers) or a moth (peach tree borer) in flight seeking a mate and looking for food to sustain itself until it can reproduce. The rest of the time is either as an egg laid on limbs or the trunk or larva tunneling and eating in sapwood where it can find carbohydrates for nourishment and growth. The final stage is pupal, also inside the tree, where it transforms from larva to adult beetle or moth. One of the flat headed borers in a damaged branch of peach Control by chemicals is not very effective for our borer since we don’t know when it flies or where it lands until we see damage. Having said that, there is one chemical that is very effective for controlling borers that are inside the tree and it is labeled for fruit trees. The chemical name is One of the products recommended for borer control containing imidacloprid imidacloprid. It comes as several different trade or label names. One of the common names for homeowners is a Bayer product found in many local stores and nurseries. It is a systemic insecticide that moves up inside the tree killing insects that are feeding on the interior. The claim is for 12 month protection using this product. Personally, I have a problem applying systemic insecticides that last 12 months on plants which produce fruit that I’m going to eat in less than 12 months. But it is labeled to do this. Instead I recommend that we focus on prevention by protecting trees like peach and nectarine from sun damage to the limbs, We do this by keeping the canopy full enough to shade these limbs or painting limbs with whitewash to reduce sun damage by intense sunlight. Sun damage seems to attract the adults and their egg-laying.  Midsummer die back of peach limbs due to progressive borer damage. On older trees, damage from these insects might be over several years before visual signs of damage appear. At advanced stages of attack over several years, we see limbs dying in midsummer. Early signs of damage can be seen the day after a good rainfall when brown colored sap oozes from damaged areas. Sap coming from peach limb due to borer activity During early stages of damage we can remove the outer bark of damaged areas with a sharp knife exposing where they are living and feeding and revealing them to potential predators and exposing them to the elements. When this kind of practice is done on a regular basis we might see about 80% of the damaged trees recover until the next onslaught. Borers in peaches and nectarines are the usual reason these trees seldom survive past 20 years of age.

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Mechanical Control of Borers in Fruit Trees

I will usually take a very sharp, large knife and remove this loose bark and find out how much damage has been done by the borer. No one talks about this subject probably because no one has really tried it much in the past. Borer problems in fruit trees in Las Vegas are usually from two different possible insects; flat-headed apple tree borer or the Pacific flatheaded borer. The damage from both of these insects are very similar. They usually damage areas of the tree damaged by intense sunlight. This means the upper surfaces of limbs and the sides of limbs facing south or west. Early damage from borers starts with this brown crystalline sap coming from damaged branches. When it rains this sap gets very gooey like petroleum jelly. This is peach but the limbs have been whitewashed. More borer damage on the same tree. Damage does not usually cause limb dieback unless the limb is small or the problem has been developing in the tree for a couple of years. With repeat attacks the limb becomes weaker, the vascular system that carries water and nutrients is severely impeded and then we see branch dieback and flagging (leaves dead on the tree without falling off). When damage from borers has been going on for quite some time the lifting of the bark can be extensive and damage can extend nearly all the way around the limb. I will usually take a very sharp, large knife (not a pen knife, this would be dangerous) remove this loose bark and find out how much damage has been done by the borer. If the damage has not extended over half way around the limb I will remove the bark all the way down to fresh wood. The dead wood and bark is completely removed from the limb and the limb is allowed to heal. Nothing is applied to the limb but time. In our many years of doing this in the orchard I would estimate that over 50% (very conservative estimate and it is probably closer to 80%) recover with this method. I can only guess but removing the loose bark takes away any hiding places the adult will have when it exits the tree, if it does.  If successful, the tree heals over the wound in two to three years. Peach tree borer repair with a knife and healing of the upper surface of the limbs.

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