Xtremehorticulture

Get Bottle Trees out of Containers and Into the Ground

Q. I am growing healthy bottle tree in a very large concrete container in Queensland, Australia. The lower branches have been turning brown and then falling off. Is this typical behavior as this tree grows taller or a water problem? I am watering maybe 2-3 times a week using a handheld hose.  We are currently moving into our summer with very warm to hot days. A. All bottle trees (Brachychiton populneus and B. rupestris) growing in containers or pots presents its own set of problems (primarily heat, soil, and water management) that growing them in the ground does not. I would encourage you to think about planting in the ground if possible. Our bottle trees get big! So do Australian-type bottle trees! Bottle Trees in Australia are Different Than Ours             In Australia they sometimes call Brachychiton rupestris a bottle tree. In the US, Brachychiton populneus is called the Australian bottle tree. Both are natives to you but rupestis gets the typical bottle look when younger while populneus gets a bottle shape that is not as exaggerated. Dropping of lower limbs may be natural with that species if they get eight years old. Hard to know since it depends on how old it got and if the trunk was starting to swell. Be careful when putting bottle trees in lawns. These trees don’t like lawns because lawns are watered too often. They are native to Queensland and Victoria, New South Wales, Australia and prefer soils that have good drainage and are not watered frequently. Heat Management of Containers I would suggest growing them in double pots. The outside container creates shade and acts like a heat protector for the roots. When the sun shines on the pot directly it can damage or kill about 50% of the roots due to heating up of the soil.             The surface of dry containers, when the air temperature is 105F, is about 175F. Plant roots can handle temperatures at about 135F. I tell people to water their plants just before the heat of the day. As trees get older their roots occupy more of the container and this can be a significant problem during the summer. Root growth occupies space. Bottle trees, Brachychiton populneus, can sunburn on upper branches because of its thin bark. It is easily vandalized as well. Soil Management of Containers Soil in containers “wear out” (depletes) in about five years and should be changed or amended every three to five years. I would discourage you from growing a large tree (bottle trees mature at about 50 or 60 feet) in containers. Most containers are not large enough to handle tall trees and their roots as they get larger. Containers are better suited for smaller plants like limes, calamondin, and finger limes. Water Management The usual problem with bottle trees is poor drainage and watering too often. The roots will rot if they get a continuous water supple and the soil stays wet. Digging them up when roots are rotting is usually accompanied with a putrid smell as the roots rot. When watering by hand about one fourth of the applied water should come out the bottom to remove salt.             If you can’t control the water in the soil (drainage) or the application of water, then plant the tree on a “hill” that is at least one foot higher than the surrounding soil and six feet in diameter. Cover the soil with a 2-to-3-inch layer of surface mulch, either rock or woodchips.

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Does My Bottletree Need Pruning?

Q. First of all, thank you for your Gardening Q&A in the Review Journal.  I have found it to be most helpful in establishing my garden in Nevada.  It is a constant learning experience to find what will grow best with the considerations of water and what the rabbits won’t eat. I have questions regarding the Australian Bottle Tree in our front yard. (see attached pictures).  Should we trim and shape the tree?  It has grown to a considerable height.  The wind, appearance, and mostly health of the tree are our concerns.   Does the cracking and area of darkness on the trunk need addressing?  And should I wrap the trunk in winter?  We are at 3000 feet in Anthem and sometimes have a slightly lower winter temperature range. A. Very nice looking tree. Personally, I would not do anything to it. I know it may not look picture perfect but that is what can be charming about native trees used in our environment.  As it grows more it will naturally fill in some of the void’s. You could prune it to shape it a bit but be very careful when you do this and do not change it radically or the plant will respond the way it wants to and you may not like it.  You could identify some of the tallest limbs and bring the height of the tree back down so that it’s similar to the rest. Shaping probably shouldn’t have occurred a little bit earlier and you could have avoided some of this but you could do some light pruning on this tree if you want to. That is your call and I know that you may not be entirely pleased with its informal look. But don’t do anything dramatic to it or you could end up with some problems such as sunburn on the lower limbs and some die back.  If you are going to do it, do it this winter and do it yourself or hire someone who has a good reputation with shaping trees. This tree is a focal point on your property.

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Bottle Tree Losing Leaves

Q. I have bottle trees planted next to the house and for some reason the one in the middle is losing leaves on the bottom branches. The trees are getting watered two times each week for 40 minutes. I cleared out the rock mulch and replaced it with cedar mulch around the base of the tree. I lost a bottle tree last year so I’m trying to figure out why. A. Bottle trees represent about 15 or 20 different types. All of them have a swollen trunk which, some people speculate, they use for storing some water during dry periods. We typically use only one type of bottle tree in the valley.             The cedar mulch won’t add any nutrients to the soil but it will slow evaporation of water from the soil surface. Bend side branches without leaves to see if they are dead. If they are still flexible and don’t snap, they may come back when it cools.             Remove any branches that are growing toward the house. Planting those trees in that location was not the best idea.             I remember these trees being brought into the valley as early as the late 1980s during our first push on desert landscaping. They were brought in by landscape contractors and architects because they were being used primarily in Southern California.             The first problem I remember was irrigation. People did not know that these trees required watering less often. They were watering them much like any other landscape plant. These trees are very susceptible to over irrigating.             Although not a desert tree like the Acacia, it does handle arid climates and infrequent waterings. These waterings, when they do occur, should flood the entire root system about 2 to 3 times a month during the summer. The next irrigation should not occur until the soil is dry or you run the chance of getting root rot and the tree may suddenly die during the summer heat.             The next problem was how they were being used. The tree needs to be in full sun. They should not be planted against hot South or West facing wall. Very young, green trunks of this tree can get severe sunscald in these locations followed by limb and branch death.

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