Xtremehorticulture

Slow Growth Can Be a Sign of Poor Plant Selection

Q. We notice that some of our trees don’t seem to be rooting into the soil properly.  We assume it’s due to improper root ball preparation or girdling roots. Our test to see if the tree has rooted after at least one growing season is to bend the tree trunk back and forth.             If the root ball under the soil easily moves when the tree is pushed, we assume that the tree has poor or little rooting into the surrounding soil.             We also believe it’s a permanent problem, not correctable and thus the tree needs to be replaced.  Any suggestions for making a better evaluation and discovering this potential problem before planting? Root circling from container plant A. Poor tree establishment due to girdling or circling roots is a major problem with many plants, not just trees. This problem can begin at a very early age, even when it is just a seedling. But if plants are grown too long in containers then the problem can become worse.             Once roots begin growing in circles inside a container the problem can no longer be corrected, even at planting time. This problem should be identified before purchasing and the plant rejected. Roots seen circling when pulled from container             Generally speaking, plants which are very large compared to their container have a significant chance of having girdling roots. Buying oversized trees in containers is no bargain.              When buying a container plant that I can lift, I will gently pull the plant a few inches out of the container and inspect the roots for circling. This includes bedding plants! Secondly, I select trees that are not oversized for their container. Here is a case where smaller plants of the same sized containers will out-perform the larger ones. Surface roots from circling container roots. Notice how the trunk lacks “flairing” at the soil surface on one side of the tree. One way to detect these types of roots when they are present but hidden below the soil surface.             Plants in containers should usually root, or become established, in one full growing season. Large trees, such as those planted from boxes, may take two to three seasons. Malformed, girdling roots will continue to circle in the same pattern once they are planted in the ground. Because of this, they will never grow beyond the planting hole after planting.             In other words, they stand a good chance of never getting established. If they never grow beyond the planting hole, the tree roots will never be strong enough to support the tree when it gets bigger. Scoring the rootball can sometimes help repair girdling roots, if they are not extensive, when planting. This NOT a substitute for good plant production practices or poor plant selection.             A sign that a tree may have circling or girdling roots after it has been planted is stunted growth. This stunted growth can take years after planting before it appears. It is a good idea to identify trees that have this problem early in their development.             Another indicator is the presence of girdling roots on the soil surface and a lack of trunk flaring at the soil surface but this can take years to develop.             Your method is a good one for determining if trees have not become established after planting. Once the establishment period is over, I use the same procedure that you prescribe (bending the trunk) to determine if there are girdling roots down there or not.             Boxed trees are replanted from containerized trees. Normally, container trees are staked as soon as they are planted in a box. However, if the container tree had girdling roots then they will continue to girdle and never establish in the box.               There are three other things that can cause poor rooting into the surrounding soil as well; poor hole/soil preparation, improper staking or not staking after planting and watering too close to the tree.

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One of Several Pine Trees Sparse and Scrawny

Q. Why does my one pine tree seem so sparse and inadequate?  I purchased four Mondale pines and treat them all equally. But one of them looks so scrawny.  The other one shown looks healthy and appears to be robust.  Any thoughts on that?  A. The usual reason for a pine tree being sparse and not full is that it is not receiving the same treatment as the others. Pine trees generally maintain needles on their branches until the wood gets to be three to five years old and then the needles are dropped from the older wood. This older branch is needle-less except for small branches growing from it less than five years old.             The reason for canopy thinning is the loss of needles at a higher rate than they are being replaced. So bottom line for a pine tree becoming sparse is that the tree is not putting on enough new growth. Reasons for this include a lack of water, fertilizer, damage to the tree, or less likely, diseases or insects. Pine needle brown dieback due to lack of water             By far the most common reason is that the amount of applied water is not enough. So when you say you treat them the same it does not necessarily mean these treatments are all reaching the trees equally. But if there is inadequate water two things will happen; the tree will put on less growth and the needles will begin dying back from the tips.             The first thing to do is to check and make sure that whatever is delivering water to the tree is not plugged. Secondly, make sure that water is not running off the surface to some other location. Just because water is applied to a tree does not mean it is getting to the roots. Circling roots of semi mature tree due to circling roots in the containers             Remember, that as trees get bigger their demand for water increases. The increase is not simply a few gallons per year but is much greater because trees are three dimensional in their water use unlike a lawn. Unlike a lawn, when a tree doubles in size its need for water more than doubles.             The next most common reason is that the roots of the tree never fully established into the surrounding soil after planting. This can be because the tree was too old for the container and the roots started circling and never established into the landscape successfully.             It can also be because the tree was not firmly staked at the time of planting. Correctly staking a tree will immobilize the roots and help them to establish successfully into the surrounding soil. You should be able to push on the trunk and NOT see any movement of soil at the base of the trunk.               The next most common reason is damage to the roots or trunk. This will be far less likely than a watering problem but much easier to identify. This can be physical damage like construction, damage from chemicals like salts or weed killers, insect or diseases like collar rot.             If the tree is being shaded by other plants and not receiving enough light (at least six hours a day) then these branches in the shade can drop their needles. If this is the case then some pruning to allow more light will help. If they are planted too close together then consider removing trees so the remaining trees will thrive.

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