Xtremehorticulture

Why ‘Improved Meyer’ Lemon instead of ‘Eureka’ Lemon in St. George Utah

Q. I am writing regarding the purchase and planting of a ‘Eureka’ lemon tree. Of main concern to me is where to plant the tree, where to purchase the tree, what sized tree should I purchase, how often should it be watered and fertilized, and how big should I make the planting hole? Meyer lemon tree growing in a container in Las Vegas. A. a ‘Eureka’ lemon is not a preferred lemon for our area due to its low tolerance of our colder winter temperatures. Meyer lemon begins its cold winter damage at about 25F or a bit less, but ‘Eureka’ lemon starts getting damage at freezing (32F). That’s a 7°F difference in cold tolerance not even considering wind damage! ‘Meyer Lemon’ is not a true lemon like ‘Eureka’, but the flavor is very close. Eureka lemon in Las Vegas             If freezing weather threatens, wheel the tree and container into the garage until the freezing temperature is over then wheel it back out. You can try covering it with a frost blanket. This gives the tree about 5°F of added protection (to about 27°F depending on the wind). You can try Christmas tree lights that radiate heat (it may help a few degrees) but again it depends on the wind. Large unknown lemon grown in Lake Havasu, AZ.             The rest of the information you asked about is the same regardless of the variety. Depending on which variety you want, you may have to purchase it from an online nursery. Select an average sized tree, about 5 gallons in size, and plant it in the warmest microclimate you can find surrounding your house (usually it’s on the south or west side). Amend the soil with compost at planting time and dig the planting hole three times the width of the roots. Plant it 8 to 5 feet from a warm wall and protect it from the wind. Stake it for at least one year if it is a 5-gallon size or larger. Plant wet. Cover the soil with woodchips when finished. Protect it from rabbits.

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Leaves Yellowing on Calamondin Citrus Tree

Q. What causes leaves to yellow and black spots to develop on leaves of my calamondin citrus tree? I had them for seven years and they just now developed these yellow leaves with black spots. Nursery information desk advised picking off all affected leaves (but there are too, too many) then spray with cooper fungicide. A. Combined with leaf yellowing, it sounds like either a nutrient or watering problem or both, not a disease problem. Copper sprays like Bordeaux Sprays, are usually recommended for disease control but I don’t think that is it. This is photinia but you get the leaf yellow idea from this pisture. Try this:     1. Cover the soil with 1/4 inch of rich compost or compost plus some fertilizer high in nitrogen     2. Then cover the compost or compost/fertilizer with woodchips     3. Apply a citrus fertilizer in January     4. Try adding an iron fertilizer (I suggest an iron chelate called 133 or iron EDDHA) This is the most effective iron treatment (EDDHA chelate) but it is more expensive than other iron chelates. Apply it in the spring (February) or no later than early summer (April/May) for best results. If these citrus trees are in rock mulch, then it’s a nutrient and drainage problem. Auger four or five holes into the ground, 2 feet deep and 1 to 2 feet from the trunk, to improve drainage. Fill these holes with soil mixed 50/50 with compost and an iron fertilizer. Citrus fertilizers contain plant nutrients in higher concentrations than other plant nutrients particularly when these fertilizers are formulated for the desert Southwest like Arizona’s Best and Grow Well brands.              Mix iron chelate with the compost before using it to fill the augured holes. Water once a week through the augured holes, filling them with a hose. Also, try spraying the leaves with an iron chelate solution four or five times, a few days apart. If this is an iron problem, even though it’s caused by poor drainage, the leaves should begin to get darker in color. Put about four of these holes about 18 to 24 inches from the tree trunk  and 2 to 3 feet deep to improve drainage. If they are filled with gravel or woodchips they will stay open. They act as drainage sumps (French drains) around trees (vertical mulching). Nutrient problems can be caused by poor drainage. That’s why I’m giving a recommendation to improve the drainage using vertically augured holes and combining it with a compost and iron application at the same time.

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Sap Is Oozing from My Kumquat Limbs

Q. Unfortunately it appears our kumquat trees may have bacterial blast fungus. Our tree appears very healthy and has given us a lot of fruit, but we recently noticed sap coming from the bottom of main branches. What treatment would you recommend? Sam is oozing from the limbs of this kumquat.It sounds crazy but disease stress from management issues can cause sap oozing like this to appear. The KISS rule tells me to look at the soil and watering issues first. A. I usually follow the KISS rules for diagnosing plant problems. Unless we are in a citrus production area, or there is a history of disease on these trees, I first conclude it’s a man-made problem. Regardless, we must rule out the simplest reasons first before we jump to more exotic disease problems.             Root death because soils are kept too wet cause these symptoms on citrus. For this reason, I assume the trees watered too often or there is a water drainage problem in the soil surrounding the roots. Simple test if watering too often issues After the first year of growth, all fruit trees, including citrus, should be rooted firmly in the soil. A simple diagnostic tool helps judge whether wet soils should be a concern or not. Move the tree by its trunk, back and forth, while looking at where the tree enters the soil. The tree should be firmly anchored in the soil and not move it. If tree roots move the soil easily, then the soil has probably been kept too wet and the roots began “drowning” or rotting.              There is a tendency during hot weather to water fruit trees more often, even daily. Most fruit trees, including citrus, prefer at least one day of no watering between watering days. Unless the tree is newly planted, or planted in sand, never water trees daily. Instead, increase the minutes on the clock when you do water. Mulch can add one extra day between irrigations             Anything that shades the surface of the soil during summer helps tree roots function better. Their primary functions regarding tree health are the uptake of minerals and water. They do this better, however, if the surface of the soil is mulched. Woodchips (or even shredded cardboard, shredded newspaper or straw) lying on the soil surface gives fruit trees one extra day between waterings during the summer.             If the soil is not mulched or covered, soils dry quickly and get hot in our summer sun and heat. When soils are wet, tree roots grow where there is a good mix of air and water. Unless the soil has been amended quite a distance from the tree at the time of planting, most of the tiny roots that feed on water and nutrients grow in the top 6 inches of soil.

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Tangerine Leaves Curling

Q. Please help me to recover my tangerine tree leaves curling inwards. Most have very small black spots on them. l observed the leaves and don`t see any insects. l do deep hose watering during hot summer days. Picture of tangerine leaves curling and dropping A. There are lots of reasons for citrus leaves curling. This problem is near legendary for citrus leaves but the reason is usually environmental and not from insects or disease. I’m not saying it can’t happen but it’s less likely. Citrus troubleshooting guide Arizona Cold weather             Since this question was sent to me at the end of winter, cold weather comes to mind. Cold temperatures can cause leaves to roll. Some say cold weather can cause leaf spotting as well. If leaf rolling was during the summer, guess what? High temperatures can also cause citrus leaves to roll. Watering             Moisture stress can cause leaf roll and leaf drop. When timing irrigations, make sure the soil is no longer wet when the irrigation water is applied. In the same token, make sure the soil does not get too dry between irrigations. Dry and wet soils can cause leaf rolling.             What’s more important, in my opinion, is overall tree health. Plants in poor health are more susceptible to problems than those that are healthy. Soil problems             In the picture you sent, I noticed the condition of the soil surrounding these trees. The soil looked pretty bad, even by Las Vegas standards. Poor soil conditions leads to poor plant health in the future.             Good soil health begins at the time of planting. I realize your tree has already been planted but soil improvement surrounding the roots at the time of planting is a huge future investment in plant health for years to come. In the future, excavate the planting hole 3 to 4 feet in diameter and 18 inches deep at the center. Mix good compost with your excavated soil at a rate of about 1:1; for every shovelful of soil, mix one shovelful of compost. What to do?             What can you do now? Put a half bag of compost on the soil surrounding the tree. On top of this, put a 4 to 6 inch layer of woodchips and water it in. Woodchips, where irrigation water is present, improves the soil health where most of the feeder roots of your tree are living. Spreading good quality compost at the base of trees for its fertilizer content             Improving the soil improves water, fertilizer and nutrient uptake by these roots which in turn improves the overall health of the tree. Soil improvement using this method helps remove some irrigation problems that could be causing leaf rolling. Overall, this means fewer problems for your citrus in the future. Community mulch pile at the University Orchard North Las Vegas             Get these woodchips free by visiting Cooperative Extension locations south of the airport or in North Las Vegas at the University Orchard in the Aliante community. For more information about these free woodchips call the extension hotline at 702 – 257 – 5555.

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Lemon Not Meyers, Remove Fruit?

Q. My lemon is not a Meyers lemon but the tree is starting to flower. I didn’t want to pick them this early because they are still getting sweeter. Does the “remove lemons before the tree flowers” rule apply to this variety as well?  Ponderosa lemon ready to pick on the left and immature on the right. On the tree at the same time. Rough lemon grown in Las Vegas A. Yes it does. It applies to all fruit trees. Try thinking like a lemon tree. The reason the tree produces fruit is to reproduce. When the fruit drops to the ground, the fruit rots and releases nutrients that feed developing seedlings.             The tree “knows” if there is fruit attached to its branches or not. It can’t see anything but there are other types of communication that trees have perfected. When the fruit has been picked, the tree “knows” the fruit is no longer there.             The reason for picking fruit before the tree begins flowering is to send “signals” back to the tree that it no longer has fruit attached to its branches. When fruit is missing, the reproductive or flowering cycle of the tree is encouraged.             The beginning of flowering is the beginning of the reproductive cycle. The normal flowering cycle of trees is at certain times of the year. If this time for the normal flowering cycle to begin has passed or is delayed, the tree may not flower at all or flower very lightly. Lemon turning yellow but hasn’t quite got there yet. The color change can happen faster in the presence of ethylene gas. Ripening bananas give off lots of ethylene gas and can be used to improve coloration of citrus.             You are right. Most citrus are considered non-climacteric, or, in other words the fruit doesn’t increase in sweetness after it is picked. It is best to wait when picking lemons to improve its sweetness, but you don’t want to leave it on the tree long enough to interfere with flowering.             Other fruit which don’t ripen or ripen little after picking include figs, grapes, pomegranates, cherries and apples. As a consumer this means the sweetness of non-climacteric fruit does not increase much, if at all, after picking.            If citrus is left too long on the tree fruit quality is reduced because it becomes “pithy”; it starts drying out. Remove all fruit from trees before they begin their next flowering cycle.

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Damage to Citrus Leaves Varies with Seasons

Q. Someone I know is having problems with something eating the leaves on his citrus tree.  I cannot think of what animal would do this.  Can you? Feeding damage by insects can vary with the maturity of the leaf A.  If this damage occurred to citrus leaves earlier in the season when temperatures were warm, it could because the by insects or even snails. If this is happening now, while temperatures are cold, then think of warm blooded animals such as rabbits, ground squirrels or even rats. Ground squirrels hibernate when temperatures are cold but you may see them active when temperatures are still warm but it is winter time. Citrus leaves will probably drop when the temperatures get cold enough and so that problem will be gone. I would not worry about it too much at this time of the year. It would be more of a problem if leaves started disappearing during warm weather when the plant is relying on the sun for its source of energy. If it’s caused by warm-blooded animals, they will move on to something else.

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Fertilizers: Pay for Convenience or Do-It-Yourself?

Q. What are the year-long fertilizer requirements for landscape plants ranging from acid loving to desert lovers such as cacti, palms and other plants to beautify home landscapes.   Many cactus lovers swear byproducts such as cactus juice but most cacti do quite well with a variety of different types of fertilizers A. Desert gardening and horticulture is more difficult to practice than traditional horticulture talked about on most blogs, information sheets, YouTube videos, books and other places. Most information in the media is derived from “traditional horticulture” and these practices may or may not work in the desert. This powdered fertilizer meant for dry or liquid applications has combined fertilizers that create more acidity than some other types. But it has other fertilizers in it as well good for acid loving plants.             When applying fertilizers to landscapes in desert climates and soils, consider soil improvement and irrigation beforehand. Soil improvement, where and when needed, solves many fertilizer issues. A good citrus fertilizer that can be mimicked by combining other fertilizers less expensive. But it’s convenience and knowledge that make the sale for most homeowners.             The biggest mistake made by desert horticulturists and gardeners is a lack of soil improvement to desert soils when and where needed. Desert soil improvement solves 90% of the fertilizer and irrigation issues in residential landscapes. Because the majority of plants grown in desert landscapes are NOT desert plants. Compost is a great all around fertilizer for most plants. It contains dozens of different minerals and elements not found in commercial fertilizers. Besides that, good compost is biologically active and help stimulate microorganisms better than commercial fertilizers.             Spend more money and effort on improving the soil than buying and applying specialty fertilizers. Improving the soil and using organic surface mulches around non-desert plants reduces the need for chemical soil amendments, fertilizer applications and pesticides. Called a starter fertilizer because it is high in phosphorus, the middle number. Excellent fertilizer when planting for the first time or seeding in the garden. You can mimic this fertilizer and save a little bit of money but is it worth it?             With proper soil improvement, here are my recommendations for fertilizer applications, either conventional or organic: ·        nitrogen and potassium is needed by all plants on a regular basis ·        apply phosphorous fertilizers when planting: seed, transplants from containers or bare root, rhizomes, bulbs or any plant just getting started ·        plants grown for their flowers or fruit require at least one fertilizer application of nitrogen plus phosphorus during the growing season and applied 2 weeks before flowering and fruiting ·        fertilize vegetables and annual flowers monthly; lawns every 8 weeks ·        fertilize prized landscape plants more often than “ordinary” landscape plants ·        use specialty fertilizers on rare occasions for very specific reasons

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Why Are My Oranges Mealy?

Q. We also have an orange tree that gets oranges (Not a lot  but some) and they are mealy and not very tasty.  How can we solve that? I do give the orange tree lots of extra water. Oranges grown in the Philippines are not orange in color when they are harvested because it is in the tropics. To get oranges typically orange orange in color requires that they are put into the chamber with ethylene gas in a process called “degreening”.The red fruit above the oranges is rambutan. A. Mealy oranges is usually a sign of over maturity, leaving the fruit on the tree too long. Next time they are starting to ripen begin harvesting one of the time a week apart until you hit the right harvest time. Mark it on your calendar. It doesn’t change much from year to year. Unless they are ripening in the winter, you must harvest citrus when they are ripe. They cannot stay on the tree. Don’t wait for an orange to turn color completely.  Begin harvesting it when there is still some green in the rind. If you wait until it is fully orange it may be overripe. Oranges are placed in chambers with ethylene gas to turn them completely orange.

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Poor Growth on Meyer Lemon

Q. I wrote you about my Meyer lemon tree back in early spring.  I water 3 times a week plus give extra water during extreme heat.  It doesn’t seem to be growing at all.  In the spring there were some flowers.  I put fertilizer and composted new dirt.  Any thoughts.  Your help is appreciated.   A. I looked at your pictures and I think I get it. You have a bubbler, probably 1 gallon per minute. So you flood the area where the lemon tree is. I could not figure out what mulch is on the soil surface. It looks like colorized wood chips. It was hard to tell the condition of your soil. It certainly is not performing very well. So here goes. From the sound of it, it sounds like you’re giving it plenty of water. When you have bubblers it’s best to construct the basin around the tree. Those types of bubblers release water so fast it can go everywhere and not penetrate the soil very well. Secondly, from the look of other plants in the picture I don’t think the organic matter content of the soil is high enough. So this is what I would do. I would buy some decent compost and start adding it to these areas. I do some consulting for Viragrow in North Las Vegas. They have the best compost in Las Vegas in my opinion. I would buy four or five bags of their compost. They are one cubic foot bag’s and they will cost you about $2.50 a bag. I would apply the compost to the soil around fruit trees and gently start mixing it into the soil surface. Then construct some basins around the trees to collect the water from the bubblers. Put compost around the tree but not touching the trunk Next, I would cover the soil around the fruit trees with 3 to 4 inches of wood chips. You can get the wood chips free from the University Orchard in North Las Vegas. It is located 100 yards east of the intersection of North Decatur and Horse Drive. You can get it any Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday morning for free. The compost should improve the soil if you lightly scratch it into the soil surface. If this were the winter time you could scratch it in deeper but during this heat I would be a bit careful. Wood chip mulch at the base of fruit trees I think the problem is a lack of soil aeration because the organic matter content is too low. You will add organic matter to the soil by incorporating compost and covering the soil with organic wood mulch. You will not see an improvement over night. But you should see a flush of new growth after you do all of this in two or three weeks. Let me know how it goes.

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When to Prune/Protect Myers Lemon Depends On…

Q.When is the best time to prune a Meyer lemon tree that is planted outside and should they be covered when the temperature goes below freezing? A. First of all, citrus does not require a lot of pruning unlike some other fruit trees. You would focus on removing crossed branches, broken branches or branches too close together. Generally speaking, prune citrus right after you harvest the fruit. Myers lemon may begin flowering in January or February and that becomes a bit late because the fruit will not finish until December of the same year, 10 months later. Flowers of Myers lemon This is why it is important to remove the fruit on Myers lemon by the end of December or it may interfere with flowering the following January or February. Growing citrus in our climate is always risky because of winter freezing temperatures. With most cold sensitive plants we would want to wait until after the last possible freezing event. This would put it into perhaps mid-February. Immature fruit of Myers lemon in container Waiting this long, even though it’s the right thing to do with winter tender plants, is a problem with Myers lemon because it begins to flower so early. So we have to take our chances and prune right after harvesting in early January before flowering begins.   This table taken from University of California Riverside document below Frost damage information can be found here Myers lemon should handle temperatures down to about 20° F. The amount of damage depends on the temperature but also on the length of time the temperature remains. So 20° F just before sunrise is a lot less damaging than reaching 20° F at 3 AM and staying there until sunrise.  Immature fruit of Myers lemon in container The number one reason we have fruit failure in Myers lemon in our Las Vegas climate is because of late freezing weather. Even though Myers lemon can withstand temperatures close to 20° F, the flowers or young fruit cannot. They begin to bloom in January or February and may have flowers or very small fruit on the tree and a light freeze comes by and ruins the crop. Then I get emails about why my lemon tree didn’t produce any fruit this past year or last two years.  It is extremely important to put citrus in warm microclimates in Las Vegas yards and out of the wind in our winter cold climate. You will need to cover Myers lemon whenever temperatures get close to freezing, 32° F, if they have flowers or small fruit. If they do not have flowers or small fruit than they can withstand colder temperatures. Another point worth mentioning is that cold hardiness varies during the winter depending upon the weather. During a normal winter, temperatures slowly but continually drop colder and colder until we hit our winter minimum temperatures. Temperatures stay cold during the deepest part of the winter and then minimum temperatures begin to climb as we approach spring.This past fall was nearly perfect as temperatures, generally speaking, dropped lower and lower at a very slow pace. This gradual drop in temperature was reflected in our nice fall colors which remained for about a month in November and December. We had some nice fall color like this during November and December In Las Vegas due to the gradual drop and fall/winter temperatures Some fall/winter/spring weather is not this nice. Sometimes we can get a sudden drop in temperatures in the fall that can catch normally cold hardy plants off guard. Then we see damage to these plants at temperatures warmer than their minimum temperature. The reverse can happen in the spring when we have very low temperatures, followed by an unexpected early rise in minimum temperatures then followed by a sudden drop to freezing weather. This sudden drop below freezing after a warming spell can damage trees at temperatures above their minimum. Sorry for the long winded answer but cover Myers lemon that has flowers and fruit as soon as you hear temperatures might reach freezing.

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