Xtremehorticulture

Some Compost Can Be Used as a Fertilizer

Q. If I make my own compost, can I use it instead of commercial fertilizers for grass, plants, trees, shrubs? Some composts, if they are rich enough in nutrients, can be used like a fertilizer. A. Yes you can. But please be aware that homemade compost is not consistent in fertilizer content and quality. This is because of variability of different nutrients in ingredients used to make the compost. However, compost is universally good, whether it’s commercial or homemade, when added to soils as a soil amendment. This is the fertilizer content of a compost supplied by a company I consult with. This particular compost contains a large amount of fertilizer for each cubic yard of compost. This compost would make an excellent fertilizer for plants. Other composts may not contain as much fertilizer as this one.             When using compost as a substitute for fertilizer, it is important to know its carbon to nitrogen ratio, in other words how much nitrogen fertilizer it contains. The nitrogen content of a compost is critical. High nitrogen content (low carbon to nitrogen ratio) makes compost “hot” and less of it should be used. If compost has a high carbon to nitrogen ratio (low nitrogen content), then more of it should be applied when substituting it for fertilizer When applying compost as a fertilizer for plants, it is important to keep the fertilizer away from the trunk of trees and the stems of soft, succulent plants. This type of application is okay for woody plants but vegetables and annual flowers should have the compost mixed with the soil before planting because of the high salt content from the fertilizer salts.             Commercial composts aim for a carbon to nitrogen ratio close to 20:1 or twenty times more carbon than nitrogen. As this ratio increases to 40:1, the nitrogen fertilizer content decreases. At a ratio more than 40:1, the compost is still valuable but it’s value is greater as a soil amendment rather than fertilizer.             The carbon to nitrogen ratio in homemade compost is managed through what is added to the compost mix before composting. “Woody” additions to compost like wood chips, sawdust and shredded newspaper (sometimes referred to as the “brown” component) increase the carbon to nitrogen ratio.             Additions of grass clippings, leaves of trees and shrubs, and vegetable scraps (referred to as the “green” component) lowers the carbon to nitrogen ratio and make it more valuable as a fertilizer.             Animal manure (think of it as a concentrated “green” component) is high in nitrogen and added to get the carbon to nitrogen ratio low and improve fertilizer content. If lots of different components are mixed together in the right proportions, green components are balanced with brown components, homemade compost has all the nutrients needed by plants.             The short answer is “yes”. But substituting a homemade compost for a fertilizer application varies from batch to batch depending on what was used to make the compost.

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Are Organic Fertilizers Really Organic?

The organic movement has a foothold in the turfgrass and ornamental industry. The same industry brewing for decades in home vegetable gardens, and then with small-scale producers, has emerged as a significant market percentage for commercial landscapers. Homeowners are asking for “organic” landscape plants, organic methods of controlling pests and applications of “organic” fertilizer to their landscapes. Migration of Organics to the Landscape Industry             Alternative methods for producing and maintaining ornamentals and turfgrass have been around for a long, long time. In the past, very few residential clients were willing to pay for the additional costa associated with the product. That may be changing thanks to local food movements and organic agriculture1. The word “organic” has become synonymous with “wholesome” and “safe”. Organic fertilizers for vegetable gardens             Organic has a different meaning in landscape horticulture industry. Organic can mean sources that are not synthetic or conventional. Organic amendments, such as municipal and animal sources of biosolids, can be applied to improve soil physical and chemical properties which in turn can improve turfgrass establishment rates, growth, and quality. We know, for instance, that in poor or marginal soils the incorporation of compost improves soil properties, increases soil nutrients and consequently improves plant growth. In soils with a naturally higher percentage of organic matter these improvements are less noticeable. Nitroform urea used in the landscape industry could be classified as an “organic” fertilizer even though it is manufactured  Composted Dairy Manure Reduced Turfgrass Disease in Colorado             Research at Colorado State University evaluated the effects of applying composted dairy manure as topdressing to Kentucky bluegrass. Researchers applied compost at the rates of 13.3, 26.6 and 40 cubic yards to the acre. Applying composted manure as topdressing to established bluegrass in 2003 through 2004 improved the soil’s physical properties and nutrient content. EZ Green Is a composted chicken manure product for the landscape industry that is OMRI listed product for the organic program by USDA             Although nothing new, the application rates are important. The two higher rates improved turfgrass overall quality and allowed the grass to retain color in the fall, early winter and green up faster in the spring. Not bad for a product that is not considered a fertilizer.             During the hot summer months the two higher application rates produced about 50% more clippings. The researchers concluded that compost improves turf quality and shoot growth via its action as a slow-release fertilizer. Lawn clippings remove from the grass and left on the curbside for dumping in landfills. These clippings are filled with valuable nutrients that could be returned to the lawn resulting in one less fertilizer application each year.             More turfgrass clippings sound like a potential landscaper’s nightmare but there is a positive side to this “problem”.  Increased amounts of clippings in summer months helps suppress the incidence of hot weather diseases. Infected leaf blades are removed through regular mowing and mulched back into the turfgrass sward or removed from the property.             Disease suppression by composts, composted biosolids and compost teas in vegetable crops has been documented fairly well. But research has been conducted on the suppressive effects of composts, such as biosolids, on turfgrass diseases as well, dating back 20 years or more. Compost tea applicator used for soil applications             This research shows promise to “organic” gardeners by reducing the application of fungicides, synthetic fertilizers and other chemicals to home lawns. Composts show promise in controlling turf diseases such as Pythium, summer patch, brown spot, dollar spot, red thread, necrotic ring spot and others.  Reductions in the applications of pesticides such as fungicides, directly supports the “organic” movement whether it is truly organic or not. Lawn clippings from commercial properties represent a huge amount of fertilizer that is removed from the lawn grasses and buried in landfills. Composted Biosolids Benefits To Landscapes Shown by Texas Researchers             Researchers at Texas A and M University, from 2005 through 2008, demonstrated the benefits from composts used for soil improvement and nutrient enrichment can be transferred from the sod farm to newly established landscapes. Previous studies with sod that recycled manure-based soil amendments as topdressing indicates that 77% of the phosphorus and 47% of the nitrogen might be removed and transported in a single sod harvest.             About one quarter of the cubic yard of composted biosolids was incorporated to rootzone depth in a cubic yard of native soil when establishing Tifway bermudagrass sod. Researchers measured that five times more nitrogen and seven times more phosphorus was available to turfgrass grown in biosolids compared to grass grown without biosolids. Fertilizer content of composted biosolid product by a local Las Vegas supplier             After two sod harvests, all of the nitrogen and phosphorus applied from the biosolids was removed with the sod. These nutrients were transferred, with the sod, to the landscape.             Although not demonstrated, researchers claimed that this could result in faster establishment times and better turfgrass cover in a shorter period of time. This, of course, would reduce the amount of fertilizers needed during sod establishment. Another coup for the organic movement.             They also found that sod established with biosolids was lighter in weight than sod grown without biosolids. Biosolids-grown sod contained more water but less native soil than sod without biosolids. This helped preserve the native soil. Less fuel is needed for transporting the sod. Organics, are you listening? Composts Release Fertilizer Nutrients Slowly             Composts, when used as a fertilizer, releases nutrients slowly, acting like a slow-release fertilizer. When establishing turfgrass in sod farm operations, rapid turfgrass establishment is important so a rapid release of nutrients, particularly nitrogen, is needed.             This was not going to happen with compost-amended soils. So the researchers applied either 50 or 100 pounds of nitrogen per acre at the time of sprigging (establishment) to supplement the slowly-released nutrients contained in the compost.             Because of the application of supplemental nitrogen, the time between harvests in biosolids-amended soil plus fertilizer was reduced 60% compared to

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Compost in Trash Can Stuck

Q. I’m composting in plastic trash cans with holes. It’s taking a very long time to make compost despite adding carbon to my grass clippings and kitchen waste. I water and turn it every few days. What am I doing wrong?  A. There could be several reasons why.  Perhaps the volume of compost is too small. If the amount of compost is too small, it will never produce enough heat on its own. If the air temperature is cold and the compost pile small, the composting process will be very slow.  Maybe it’s too windy. Composting is difficult in areas where there is significant wind or too much sun. Compost develops better in shady areas of the yard without wind.  The compost ingredients might not be high enough in nitrogen. Compost ingredients are divided into two categories; “brown” ingredients which are loaded with carbon and “green” ingredients which are loaded with nitrogen. Compost should have significant amounts of “green” ingredients or use animal manure.  The compost may be too dry or too wet. Compost needs to be moist but not sopping wet. Compost is like a living organism; it needs air to “breathe” and moisture.  Microorganisms are needed in the mix. I reserve a small amount of compost from the previous mix to act as a “starter” for the new mix. Or I will put in a couple of pounds of garden soil just for the microorganisms.   Solve these problems and the composting process will speed up. 

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Can’t Get My Trashcan Compost Started

Q. I’m composting in plastic trash cans with holes. It’s taking a very long time to make compost despite adding carbon to my grass clippings and kitchen waste. I water and turn it every few days. What am I doing wrong?  Compost piles need to be a certain size for them to be efficient enough to generate the heat needed for weed free and pathogen free compost. A. Compost ingredients are divided into two categories; “brown” ingredients which are loaded with carbon, and “green” ingredients which have much more nitrogen in them. Typical “brown” ingredients might be things like shredded paper, cardboard, sawdust and pulverized woodchips. Commercial composts generate high enough temperatures to kill all weed seeds and human and plant pathogens. Compost thermometers like this one are used to measure the compost temperature before turning it. Turning it cools the compost, aerates it and mixes microorganisms on the cooler surface back into the entire mix.             Typical “green” ingredients can be scraps from fruits and vegetables, green parts of plants including leaves and soft stems. Brown and green ingredients must be in proper balance to achieve a ratio of carbon to nitrogen between 20:1 to 40:1. Machines like this compost turner move down a row of compost called a windrow and mixes it by turning it over thus aerating it.             Composting is controlled “rotting” of a mixture of these ingredients. Brown and green ingredients are finely shredded and mixed together, some water is added, a small amount of soil or fresh compost and it is turned, or aerated, when the center of the compost gets hot. If heat isn’t produced by a compost pile, then one of the necessary ingredients is missing or in short supply.             Ideally, microorganisms from soil or fresh compost feast on moist carbon and nitrogen found in the compost ingredients, heat is produced and the entire mixture “rots” in a few months if these “rotting” microorganisms also get air. Air is provided by turning this mixture periodically or injecting air into the pile.             Commercial composters turn large compost piles when temperatures are about 160°F toward the center of the pile. These high temperatures are needed to destroy human and plant pathogens and weed seeds.             Small amounts of compost are more difficult to start than large piles because of our desert environment. In our desert environment, place small composters like trash cans out of the wind and protect them from the sun.             Make sure microorganisms are in the mixture. Add a couple scoops of fresh compost or a pound of garden soil to this mixture. Add extra nitrogen such as high nitrogen fertilizer or blood meal if you think too much “brown” ingredients are in the mixture.

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Add Compost Now

Compost is very important to add before planting summer vegetables and herbs. Use it in place of fertilizers to feed trees and shrubs, improve the soil and growth. Add it to backfill 50/50 with soil dug from the hole for improved plant performance, rooting and growth. Don’t forget to mulch fruit trees after planting. Viragrow sale on compost ends in 10 days. Bulk and bagged. https://twitter.com/Viragrow/status/701075973534457857 http://www.viragrow.com/compost

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Can I Use Compost With Worms in It?

Q. I have been collecting vegetables scraps for the last 6 months for composting but did not have a cover on my bin.  I have found the compost loaded with this bug or worm.  Can I use this compost? There are too many to pick out.  I’m afraid if put in soil they will kill plants but my compost is really good!! A. This is pretty common in compost. This question is one of the most common questions asked about composting on my blog.             Many of these types of insects feed on decaying foods and composts that are not quite finished composting. Once the compost is finished they are seldom a problem.             I don’t know how much compost you are talking about but if it is possible to layer out the compost the birds will come in and gobble them up.             You can cook them in the sun and they will decompose in your compost. To do it correctly the compost must be “fluffy” or loose enough to allow the heat to spread through it evenly.             Spread the compost in a layer several inches thick. It should be slightly moist but not wet. Cover it with a clear plastic drop cloth and hold it in place with some nails or staples. The edges of the plastic must be sealed so no heat escapes.             Hold it in place with some rocks, blocks or bricks so it does not blow away. Leave it in direct sunlight for about two weeks. The temperature will get hot enough to kill most of the insects. Maybe pupa of cutworm or armyworm? Pupa is the transitional stage between larva or worm and the adult. In these cases moths. The adults are moths that you will see flying around your porch light at night. As a kid we used to call them “Miller moths”. Kind of dusty, maybe an inch across. They used to fly right into the light and sometimes get “fried”. When you see these moths, the eggs they laid will hatch in a few days and it is time to put down some Bt sprays or dusts on your vegetable garden.

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The Birdsnest Mushrooms in Your Mulch – Kids Will Love Them!

Reader’s “pods found in the garden. All of these might nearly fit on a quarter to give you a rough idea of their size. Q. I figured I can’t let more than three months go by without pestering you with a question! Attached are two photos of some mystery pods I found in the garden when doing some clean up. One is with the pods closed, and the second is with them open and with what appears to be small black seeds. Any idea what this is?   A. These are not pods at all but what is called birds nest mushrooms. These do look like tiny little pods with black seed like things inside them. Like other mushrooms or saprophytic (feed off of dead things) fungi they “feed” of off decaying organic matter in the soil. We can see these fairly commonly in compost heaps, decaying mulches or other places where organic waste is decomposing. They are interesting and kids love these little things. Unopened or just opening “pods” of the reader             Nothing to worry about. They feed off of DEAD plants so no harm to living plants or you. They are decomposers so they help to break down litter on or in the soil after or during a warm wet period. I attached a fact sheet from Texas A and M on this interesting form of plant life. I will post your pictures on my blog for others to see them.   Birdsnest and other inhabitants of wood chips and compost

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