Xtremehorticulture

Chinese Pistache Should Never Be Watered Daily After Planting

 Q. I purchased a Chinese Pistache one year ago that was about 12′ tall; not a small tree. Everything was fine until July, about 11 months after planting.  The leaves went from deep green to dry and crunchy, quickly.  The tree was watered twice a day for 25 minutes during the summer. The supplier of the tree told me it was insect damage and to water once a day for 45 minutes longer. My concern is that all the landscaping is on the same zone. It is all doing extremely well. The landscaper has recommended 20-25minutes/ twice per day. I’m confused because I was told that what will kill the tree is if the soil is too wet. Chinese pistache tree recently planted. A.  Your watering schedule is very confusing. Part of the confusion is that everything is watered the same.  In landscapes, trees and shrubs should be watered separately from those plants requiring daily irrigations. In other words, trees and shrubs are watered separately from those requiring daily waterings. Daily summer irrigation is required only by lawns, flower beds and vegetable gardens. Instead put a donut or moat around the tree to force more water toward its roots. The frequency of irrigation (on and off) is only controlled by the irrigation valves. Irrigation valves do not control the amount of water plants receive. The amount of water they receive is controlled by the size and number of irrigation emitters. Trees and shrubs are deeper-rooted; the amount of water they receive should only be controlled by irrigation emitters. The amount of water each plant receives depends on its size.  Larger plants require more water than smaller plants. Irrigation controllers dont have to be as fancy as this one. Figure out what you need it to do. The primary function of an irrigation controller is to turn irrigation valves on or off. Never plant anything living in a “dry” hole regardless of the time of year it’s planted.  The hole should always be moist or at least “mucky” when planting.  After planting is finished, give the soil a chance to start drying before watering again. This should be at least one day except when planting in pure sand. If your trees and shrubs are watered the same as everything else in the landscape, it is being watered wrong.  There should be at least two irrigation valves; one irrigation valve is needed for summer daily irrigations, and the second valve (or other valves) is needed for watering everything that is not watered daily in the summer. Notice I said at least two irrigation valves. Your landscape probably needs more than two.             Next, connect an irrigation valve to those plants requiring daily summer irrigations (lawn, flower bed, vegetable garden;). These are the only plants connected to this valve. Reserve the second valve for bigger plants needing nondaily irrigations. At planting time, dig the hole for plants three times the width needed to just barely fit the plant in the hole. Not just a hole big enough to fit the plant in and call it done. This is the desert. Soils need to be amended for planting and the planting hole needs to be wide, not necessarily deep.

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Container Plants Difficult to Manage for Snowbirds

Q. We winter in Boulder City in a condo RV park. Three years ago we planted a rose bush that did wonderfully well until it died last summer. The pot gets plenty of water from a drip hose. We would like to put something in the pot more capable of surviving the extremes of the high desert. I would be happy with anything that will flower or fruit when we are here in the winter and is OK with being abandoned for six months.  A. It will be very, very difficult to grow much of anything in a pot if it is not attended to. You might be better off putting something there that will not die and, while you are here, growing something that you can dispose of when you leave such as an annual.             The other possibility is to have someone care for your plants while you are gone. The summers here are brutal on plants as you know. We get fluctuations in our weather that are very unpredictable.             If you insist on growing something in a container then double pot your container so that the container you are growing in is surrounded by another container or object that shades the outside of the inner container.             Surface temperatures of containers that receive direct sunlight in late spring and summer will produce temperatures inside the container that will kill plant roots. Double potting a container with a larger container with gravel in the bottom and just airspace on the sides will help insulate the soil inside the container.             Surface temperatures of a container will easily rise above 165F in direct sunlight. This heat transfers to the soil and cooks the roots on the side exposed.             Another possibility will be to grow cacti in containers and watering it no more than about once every two weeks. Once a week if the container is small. Make sure the soil for the cactus drains readily. The container should still be double potted.

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Slow Growth Can Be a Sign of Poor Plant Selection

Q. We notice that some of our trees don’t seem to be rooting into the soil properly.  We assume it’s due to improper root ball preparation or girdling roots. Our test to see if the tree has rooted after at least one growing season is to bend the tree trunk back and forth.             If the root ball under the soil easily moves when the tree is pushed, we assume that the tree has poor or little rooting into the surrounding soil.             We also believe it’s a permanent problem, not correctable and thus the tree needs to be replaced.  Any suggestions for making a better evaluation and discovering this potential problem before planting? Root circling from container plant A. Poor tree establishment due to girdling or circling roots is a major problem with many plants, not just trees. This problem can begin at a very early age, even when it is just a seedling. But if plants are grown too long in containers then the problem can become worse.             Once roots begin growing in circles inside a container the problem can no longer be corrected, even at planting time. This problem should be identified before purchasing and the plant rejected. Roots seen circling when pulled from container             Generally speaking, plants which are very large compared to their container have a significant chance of having girdling roots. Buying oversized trees in containers is no bargain.              When buying a container plant that I can lift, I will gently pull the plant a few inches out of the container and inspect the roots for circling. This includes bedding plants! Secondly, I select trees that are not oversized for their container. Here is a case where smaller plants of the same sized containers will out-perform the larger ones. Surface roots from circling container roots. Notice how the trunk lacks “flairing” at the soil surface on one side of the tree. One way to detect these types of roots when they are present but hidden below the soil surface.             Plants in containers should usually root, or become established, in one full growing season. Large trees, such as those planted from boxes, may take two to three seasons. Malformed, girdling roots will continue to circle in the same pattern once they are planted in the ground. Because of this, they will never grow beyond the planting hole after planting.             In other words, they stand a good chance of never getting established. If they never grow beyond the planting hole, the tree roots will never be strong enough to support the tree when it gets bigger. Scoring the rootball can sometimes help repair girdling roots, if they are not extensive, when planting. This NOT a substitute for good plant production practices or poor plant selection.             A sign that a tree may have circling or girdling roots after it has been planted is stunted growth. This stunted growth can take years after planting before it appears. It is a good idea to identify trees that have this problem early in their development.             Another indicator is the presence of girdling roots on the soil surface and a lack of trunk flaring at the soil surface but this can take years to develop.             Your method is a good one for determining if trees have not become established after planting. Once the establishment period is over, I use the same procedure that you prescribe (bending the trunk) to determine if there are girdling roots down there or not.             Boxed trees are replanted from containerized trees. Normally, container trees are staked as soon as they are planted in a box. However, if the container tree had girdling roots then they will continue to girdle and never establish in the box.               There are three other things that can cause poor rooting into the surrounding soil as well; poor hole/soil preparation, improper staking or not staking after planting and watering too close to the tree.

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