Xtremehorticulture

Dieback of Mature Fan Tex Ash

Q. I was cleaning up the leaves from my Fan-Tex Ash tree and noticed that there was sap leaking from 4 different limbs of the tree.  Attached are some pictures.  The tree is about 18 years old.  Although the first picture shows a small number of leaves remaining, the tree has always has had a nice canopy of leaves including this past year.   The tree is in rock much, but it receives nutrients (24-8-16) from an in-line liquid fertilization system. Readers Fan Tex ash tree I did some on-line research and the sap could be caused by stress (not enough water) or some type of borer.  The tree receives about 30 gallons of water each time it is watered.  In the winter it is watered once a week, spring and fall twice a week, and in the summer 3 times a week.  Is it common for this tree to have borers or is this problem likely caused by insufficient water? A. The amount of water it is receiving sounds about right or possibly a little bit on the light side. It is definitely not being over watered. Your frequency of application also sounds about right seasonally. If this tree is surrounded by rock mulch then the amount of water applied may not be enough. Look at New Growth Look at how much new growth occurs every year. At eighteen years of age the tree is in youthful maturity. The tree should be growing at least 8 to 12 inches minimum every year of new growth. If new growth is less than 8 inches every year then there is a problem. You are right in several things. It could be damage from borers. It could also be from stress such as a lack of water. Ash Decline Disease Fan Tex ash is an Arizona ash. Arizona ash has a problem with ash decline disease. For this reason, I no longer recommend planting any of the Arizona ash trees including Fan Tex. The tops of the trees could have developed ash decline even though this look is not typical of ash decline.  Ash decline usually hits one or two branches at a time and causes dieback and slow growth and leaves scorching. It is also possible it has sooty canker disease. Borers are usually associated with sunburn of limbs lower in the canopy. If this tree were topped with a chainsaw it is possible that any of these three possibilities could be a problem. Dieback of ash due to Ash Decline A severe case of ash decline on Modesto ash If this is ash decline disease, the tree is a goner and it will continue to slowly decline in coming years. I would recommend that it would be removed. If this is borers or sooty canker disease then some pruning might help it recover. If you decide to keep this tree, I would have a qualified arborist selectively remove the damaged parts of this tree. Certified arborists know how to prune trees and improve their ornamental value. Fertilizer Injector It is nice to know that these trees are getting part of what they need through an injection system that deliverables mineral fertilizers. Rock Mulch This is only a partial solution to successfully growing ornamental trees in desert soils. If these soils are covered in rock mulch then the soil is probably low in organic content. The organic content can be very important to ornamental trees growing in desert soils. Rock mulch causes desert soils to slowly become less and less organic over the years. Mineral fertilizers will not solve this problem. Either covering the soil with woodchip mulch that decomposes or continually adding compost to the soil will work. As this soil becomes more “mineralized” over time the tree may continually decline. If the soil is covered in rock mulch, add compost to the top of the soil and water it in. You would do this once a year for the next three or four years but it is a slow soil improvement process. This is all hinged on whether you have rock mulch or not. The faster option is to make vertical holes with post hole diggers throughout the root area of the tree and backfill these vertical holes with compost. This gets the compost mixed into the soil much faster and produces faster results. If this turns out to be borers than applications of systemic insecticides may be her only solution to the problem. In any case, someone needs to make a decision about what the problem is which determines the course of action.

Dieback of Mature Fan Tex Ash Read More »

Tops Dying Back in Japanese Blueberry

Q. I’m having a problem with my Japanese blueberry trees. Some are fine but the two on the end appear to be drying out from the top down.  Do you have any idea what’s causing this? The soil is not dry and they all get the same amount of irrigation. A. The usual problem in damage or death to the top of a tree can be found on the main trunk just below the damaged area. I am guessing something has damaged the tree at that point.             The reason for the damage could be several. Borers cause mechanical damage to the trunk and shut off the water going to the top. Diseases in this same location can do exactly the same thing.             Because Japanese blueberry is relatively thin barked, sunburn from our intense sunlight can kill the trunk in that location and shut off water to the top. Humans can cause damage to the trunk and shut off its water supply as well. Top of dead stem on readers Japanese blueberry             I think we can rule out pathological diseases in our climate. The two most likely culprits are mechanical damage to the trunk by borers or the same type of damage caused by sunburn.             Inspect the trunk at the location just above the healthy area of the canopy. Use your fingers and see if you can pull away any loose bark. Borers tunnel just under the bark usually on the side towards the most sunlight. This kills that part of the trunk and the bark peels away easily.             If you don’t see bark peeling from the trunk at this location, look for discoloration of the trunk on this side facing the sun. Sunburn to the trunk can happen in one hour of intense sunlight during the midday or late afternoon.             If it is borers there is nothing you can do to raise the dead area back to life but you can protect the tree from extensive borer damage with an insecticide soil drench once a year.             In any case, you’ll be forced to remove the dead top from the tree with a pruning shears or saw this winter. Once you do this, it may open remaining branches for sunburn as well. Give them as much protection as you can.             I would not do it now because the sunlight is too intense and will probably cause even more damage to the lower, healthier part of the tree.

Tops Dying Back in Japanese Blueberry Read More »

Raywood Ash Showing Signs of Dying Back

They seemed to be fine after our week of 117F weather. Q. Four years ago we planted two Raywood ash trees in our back yard. They have been very healthy and have grown wonderfully to over 25-30 feet. One is growing in the grass and the other in decorative rock. We usually water about 30 gallons every 2-1/2 week in the summer. Both trees are planted in a wide circular of dirt and mulch, about 25 feet apart. There are no other plants near these trees, so they are not susceptible to any weed killer or fertilizer that should not be used near the trees. They seemed to be fine after our week of 117F weather.             Two weeks ago one began to lose leaves. Now the other one is doing the same thing. We gave them a little extra water because the leaves are beginning to dry and feel like crepe paper and turning yellowish. We checked the limbs and bark and there doesn’t seem to be any seepage, cuts or insect damage. A. My first reaction is the trees are not getting enough water. When leaves begin to drop over the entire tree it usually points to a problem with the trunk or roots. Since water affects the entire tree, the amount of water applied is also looked at closely.             Thirty gallons every 2 1/2 weeks is not enough for trees 25 to 30 feet tall. So they must be getting water from somewhere else besides your deep watering. It is good to water trees infrequently but every two weeks is quite extreme for trees that have no other source of water.             I would normally give 30 gallons of water three times a week when temperatures are in the 110F range. Once the temperature drops back around 100F I would drop it to twice a week.             As long as this amount of water is spread in a 3 to 4 foot diameter basin under the tree or distributed by multiple drip emitters under the canopy it should wet the soil deep enough, about two feet down.             You might consider is that the extra water the trees were getting might have “dried up” for some reason. When this happens, the leaves on the tree would scorch, dry up, turn crispy, and drop. This leaves the roots to rely on other sources of water to support its size.             When tree roots find water, their roots expand into a wet area. In areas where very little water is present, tree roots grow poorly. Tree roots can spread, if water is present, distances of two to three times their height. So your 25 foot Raywood ash could have roots as far as 75 feet from the trunk.             Tree roots do not necessarily grow symmetrically around the trunk. The greatest abundance of roots is in wet areas of your landscape or your neighbors. Also, if your neighbor had a pretty wet landscape, the roots could be over there. If that is the case, how your neighbor waters, or doesn’t water, could affect your trees.             I would construct a basin or depression under your trees about four to five feet in diameter and deep enough to hold about 30 to 40 gallons. I would fill this basin with water once a week for the next several weeks.             Leaves that are crunchy will not grow back. They will dry and fall from the tree. You will have to wait for a new flush of leaves if water is the problem. This might take a couple of weeks.             To supplement the tree you can plant under the canopy of the tree (not in the lawn) with other plants that require watering. This will help to supplement that trees water requirement.             The tree in the lawn is puzzling. This would make you think there is another problem but if things happen to BOTH trees it usually points to a management problem; water, fertilizer, pesticides, etc.             When one tree is affected it usually points to outside factors that are more hit and miss like diseases. However, ash is not affected by that many diseases and is a good tree for Las Vegas.

Raywood Ash Showing Signs of Dying Back Read More »