Xtremehorticulture

Black Spots on Watermelon Leaves Could Be Several Different Insects

Q. I have attempted to grow watermelons for the first time last summer and everything was looking good until it got hot. These tiny black specks appeared on the back of some of the leaves.  I was told it was aphids but they weren’t sure.  I hope you can see them clearly from the picture I’ve attached. Should I use insecticidal soap as recommended or something else?  A. I tried to magnify the picture so I could see the black spots better. I was curious if these were in fact from insects or not. I could not see it clearly but whatever it was, it appeared that it was no longer a problem and the leaves seemed nice and healthy.             Aphids are cool weather insects and so when the heat hit they should have disappeared. The big insect problems for you on watermelon would be aphids earlier in the season during cool weather, squash bugs shortly after planting and whiteflies (during the heat).             Yellow sticky traps can provide a method to determine if whiteflies are a problem or not. I will post a short video on my blog on how to make these rather than buy them. They are handy to place in the garden for insect monitoring.             Soap and water sprays are good but must be done about every three or four days and the underside of the leaves must be sprayed as well. Squash bugs are nasty and can be vacuumed or hand-picked or delay planting by seed until after June 1. If you are hand picking or vacuuming squash bugs then be diligent for about three or four weeks and keeping the plants cleaned off every couple of days by hand until mid-June to avoid most of the problems with this insect.       Thanks to Garry Pearson, Lead Greenhouse Managerat UC Davis CAES,                 Department of Vegetable Crops, during his presentations on greenhouses in Afghanistan.

Black Spots on Watermelon Leaves Could Be Several Different Insects Read More »

Base of Nectarine Tree Rotting I Think

Q. We have a nectarine tree trunk that we have a question about. I am attaching photos of it. It looks like it’s rotting. We were going to wrap the trunk to further protect it but we don’t know if it’s the right thing to do. Please view the photos when you have the time and advise us on what we should do. Readers nectarine tree A. Nice pictures. I will post them on my blog. It looks like there is damage to the trunk as you suggest. I would pull the rock away from the trunk about a foot. Make sure that the source of the irrigation is not close to the trunk. Put the water source a foot to 18 inches from it if possible.      Secondly, make sure you are not watering too often. You should be watering right now about every 7 to ten days but with a large volume of water when you do… enough to wet the soil to a depth of 18 to 24 inches deep on at least two sides of the tree. Three or four emitters watering this tree would be better than just two as the tree gets bigger. Closeup of readers nectarine tree             Pull the bark away from the damaged area if the bark pulls away easily. If it doesn’t, then cut the bark away with a sanitized knife so the damaged area is exposed and clean for healing. Keep water off of the damaged area during irrigations until it heals, perhaps around May or June.             If the rock was put around the trunk and it keeps the trunk wet above the soil line for the first several years, you may very well encourage trunk rot or collar rot on young trees. On young trees it is important to keep mulch away from the trunk a foot or so for about 5 years or more until the trunk matures and is less susceptible to rotting. Secondly, never irrigate frequently but deeply and less often.

Base of Nectarine Tree Rotting I Think Read More »

My Beans Emerged From the Soil and Died

A good indicator of collar rot is when the plant shows less vigor than it should or less vigor than its neighbors Q. I recently planted bean seeds in pots on my porch here in Las Vegas.  However, after the bean stalks were half a foot tall, they bent over, turned dark and died. A. This is probably crown rot. If you plant beans when the soil is too cold they have a huge chance of developing crown rot at the point where the bean stem enters the soil. This causes the stem rot, the plant dies or we say “collapses”. If you plant them when the soil is warmer, they have less chance of this happening. Once the plant is lifted from the soil you can inspect the stem at the soil level. Where the brown part of the stem and the green part starts was the soil level. This is also the place where the bean stem was attacked by collar rot fungi. Avoid planting in soils that are too cold.  

My Beans Emerged From the Soil and Died Read More »

Use Distilled Water or RO Water on House Plants

Q. I have a three house plants, a Christmas cactus, “Mother-in-Law’s Tongue” and an Orchid plant.  There is a white “fungus” looking on the top of their soil.  WHAT can I do to get rid of it?  Am I watering too much?  Indoors all the time.   A. It is difficult to diagnose without some pictures but this might be either a salt accumulation from using Las Vegas tap water coming from the Colorado Rivere or it could be fungus (mycelial growth) on the surface. Water taken from Lake Mead (Colorado River) at the Las Vegas location is carrying about six pounds of salt for every thousand gallons of water. Our native desert soils also contain alot of salt. I assume your houseplants were potted with some commercial potting soil so the salt load is probably relatively smaller than our native desert soils. Over time this salt can accumulate in the soil (from the tap water and soil salt) and wick back to the surface of the soil as the water in the soil evaporates. This can leave a white crust on the surface.  Salt deposited on the soil surface from the Las Vegas water coming from Lake Mead and soil salts left behind when the water evaporates. Remove the upper layer of the soil and repot the plant with fresh garden soil. Dilute your tap water with about 3/4 of the volume with distilled or RO water. I would not use pure distilled or RO water as this might cause some problems with your potting soils. Also when you water, make sure 1/5 of the water applied actually leaves the container out the bottom as drainage and discard. This helps to flush out the soil salts. If this white thing is “fuzzy”, this could be some fungal growth. Not all fungi are bad and some are decomposers and work to help break down organic materials that are already dead. Seldom do these fungi that feed on dead things attack healthy plants. Scrape off th surface, repot, keep air circulating around the plant and in sunlight when possible to help keep these fuzzies to a minimum.

Use Distilled Water or RO Water on House Plants Read More »

What Do I Do? My Lawn Has Dead Spots in Summer

This lawn is starting to recover. Just the dead spots remain. Wait until mid September or even October before you begin to remove dead grass. Leave it there for mulch to prevent weeds like bermudagrass from getting started. If you had dead areas develop in your lawn and you are pretty convinced the damage has passed then it is time to wait until fall to repair it. Three types of problems lead to dead spots in the lawn: insects, diseases and irrigation problems. It is pretty easy to determine if the problem has passed. If it has passed, the grass surrounding the damaged area and throughout the rest of the lawn area will appear healthy and rapidly growing. All that will remain of the damage are the brown spots surrounded by healthy, vibrant, green grass. Whatever you do, DON’T rake up the dead grass now and reseed or resod. Dead spots in a lawn are ugly. But what can be worse if you are not careful is to open up your lawn to a weed invasion, particularly bermudagrass, if you try to clean up these dead spots now. Wait. Wait until Fall, around mid September to mid October, to rake it up and reseed or resod. If you try to reseed it now you will fail. Even laying sod right now will be difficult to keep alive. But if you rake up that dead area and expose the bare soil to sunshine and irrigation, bermudagrass WILL seed itself right into those spots. And then you WILL have a problem. Leave the dead grass alone and let it “mulch” or cover the dead area, protecting it from invasion by bermudagrass.

What Do I Do? My Lawn Has Dead Spots in Summer Read More »

Summer Lawn Disease on Tall Fescue Right Around the Corner

Starting usually in late June and through the hottest months of July and August, tall fescue can experience the development of brown spots that can rapidly expand from six inches to more than a foot across. Summer patch, once known as Fusarium blight or Frog-eye, is caused by the fungus Magnaporthe poae. Symptoms start to appear when warm summer weather begins. Brown patches emerge during the heat of the summer, often in conjunction with summer rains and higher humidity. In southern Nevada, outbreaks vary from lawns that are highly maintained to those that are poorly maintained. Symptoms are more pronounced on highly maintained turfgrass. Infested sites seem to be prone to environmental stresses that arise from heavy thatch accumulation, mowing turfgrass too low, high nitrogen fertilizer schedules, light and frequent watering schedules, compacted soils and poor drainage. The disease can be spread by maintenance equipment and infected plant material. Even though drought seems to encourage its development, it is frequently found in wet locations. Obviously any type of management that reduces turfgrass stress during the hot summer months will help to curtail development of this disease. Appropriate fertilizer applications, aeration, removal of thatch, deep watering, and mowing higher will go a long way in preventing this disease from occurring. Chemical treatment is an option for summer patch control but the key is to start early. Appropriate systemic fungicides should be applied beginning when night temperatures remain above 70° F. Using the wrong fungicide or high nitrogen fertilizers may actually aggravate the problem. Symptoms The disease organism survives from one season to the next on diseased roots and stems from the previous year. The development of summer patch is highly dependent on the right environmental conditions. Elevated soil temperatures (75o to 85o F) and high soil moisture provide an environment where the disease is more virulent. Disease starts as scattered light green patches 1 to 5 inches in diameter as pathogens attack the roots and crowns of susceptible plants. In the early stages, young roots may appear healthy, although dark brown hyphae may be present on these tissues when seen under magnification. Vascular discoloration and cortical rot occur as the disease progresses. Damage to roots, crown and stem by the disease restrict water uptake and plants begin to appear drought stressed. By midsummer, plants with increasing levels of infection die due to heat and drought stress resulting from their damaged roots and stems. At this stage, roots and stems of plants showing dieback have a dark brown rot. Circular or crescent shaped patches of dead and dying plants are formed by the spread of the pathogen, root to root, from an initial infection site. Several of these patches can coalesce into a patchwork of dead grass in a serpentine pattern, scattered with clumps of healthy grass.  Patches of dying plants create doughnut shaped depressions that can grow to two feet across and turn dull tan to reddish brown and give the affected area a pockmarked look. In some cases, an apparently healthy green patch of grass will be completely surrounded by a ring of dead grass creating a “frog-eye” appearance. In advanced stages where large patches may appear entirely dead tufts of green grass frequently remain in the dead grass, remnants of the earlier “frog-eye”. Since the pathogen survives in infected root and crown tissues, the disease is likely to reappear next year in the same areas with increasing intensity. New patches may be formed after the transport of contaminated roots or root debris from turf maintenance equipment such as power rakes, vertical mowers and aerators. Preventive Management. To minimize the risk of summer patch, it’s helpful to minimize stress on the lawn. Primary stresses include excess thatch, inappropriate fertilizer or incorrect timing of fertilizer applications, high temperatures, low mowing heights, and soil pH extremes. Always apply a balanced N-P-K fertilizer and don’t apply any fertilizer during the June-August stress period. Fertilizers should be applied at half rates as needed. You don’t want the turfgrass underfertilized or overfertilized which may add to stress or increase susceptibility. Avoid heavy early spring and summer applications of fertilizer high in nitrogen. Develop a fall fertilization program supplemented with a half rate summer fertilization program. Deep water prior to summer heat to encourage deeper root systems. Seed heat tolerant perennial ryegrasses such as Palmer, Prelude and Brightstar. Syringe (short applications of water) during the heat of midday during July and August. Core aerate in early fall or mid spring. Remove thatch by aeration, vertical mowing or power raking. Increase mowing height to 3 inches during the hot summer months. Susceptibility to this disease increases as mowing height decreases. Overseed with improved cultivars. When summer patch is severe or when fungicides are not an option then the only remedy is fall overseeding or resodding after the disease has subsided. At this time there are no tall fescue cultivars that have been identified as resistant to summer patch. Treatment with Chemicals. Fungicides may be required for control if summer patch has been a problem in previous years. Apply treatment 3 to 4 weeks before symptoms are likely to occur in late spring when temperatures are in the 65° to 68°F range. Systemic fungicides such as Rubigan, Banner or Bayleton should be applied when night temperatures don’t fall below 70 F. Irrigate after application. Apply fungicide starting in June occur in late spring when temperatures are in the 65° to 68°F range. Systemic fungicides such as Rubigan, Banner or Bayleton should be applied when night temperatures don’t fall below 70 F. Irrigate after application. Apply fungicide starting in June. If this is too difficult, look for a product that says it controls Fusarium blight or summer patch and follow the directions for application precisely. The label is the best source of information. It is NOT a bunch of bologna. They want it to work so you will buy it again and recommend it to others. Remember, nearly all fungicides are PREVENTIVES, not curatives. Fungicides normally protect the

Summer Lawn Disease on Tall Fescue Right Around the Corner Read More »

One of Several Pine Trees Sparse and Scrawny

Q. Why does my one pine tree seem so sparse and inadequate?  I purchased four Mondale pines and treat them all equally. But one of them looks so scrawny.  The other one shown looks healthy and appears to be robust.  Any thoughts on that?  A. The usual reason for a pine tree being sparse and not full is that it is not receiving the same treatment as the others. Pine trees generally maintain needles on their branches until the wood gets to be three to five years old and then the needles are dropped from the older wood. This older branch is needle-less except for small branches growing from it less than five years old.             The reason for canopy thinning is the loss of needles at a higher rate than they are being replaced. So bottom line for a pine tree becoming sparse is that the tree is not putting on enough new growth. Reasons for this include a lack of water, fertilizer, damage to the tree, or less likely, diseases or insects. Pine needle brown dieback due to lack of water             By far the most common reason is that the amount of applied water is not enough. So when you say you treat them the same it does not necessarily mean these treatments are all reaching the trees equally. But if there is inadequate water two things will happen; the tree will put on less growth and the needles will begin dying back from the tips.             The first thing to do is to check and make sure that whatever is delivering water to the tree is not plugged. Secondly, make sure that water is not running off the surface to some other location. Just because water is applied to a tree does not mean it is getting to the roots. Circling roots of semi mature tree due to circling roots in the containers             Remember, that as trees get bigger their demand for water increases. The increase is not simply a few gallons per year but is much greater because trees are three dimensional in their water use unlike a lawn. Unlike a lawn, when a tree doubles in size its need for water more than doubles.             The next most common reason is that the roots of the tree never fully established into the surrounding soil after planting. This can be because the tree was too old for the container and the roots started circling and never established into the landscape successfully.             It can also be because the tree was not firmly staked at the time of planting. Correctly staking a tree will immobilize the roots and help them to establish successfully into the surrounding soil. You should be able to push on the trunk and NOT see any movement of soil at the base of the trunk.               The next most common reason is damage to the roots or trunk. This will be far less likely than a watering problem but much easier to identify. This can be physical damage like construction, damage from chemicals like salts or weed killers, insect or diseases like collar rot.             If the tree is being shaded by other plants and not receiving enough light (at least six hours a day) then these branches in the shade can drop their needles. If this is the case then some pruning to allow more light will help. If they are planted too close together then consider removing trees so the remaining trees will thrive.

One of Several Pine Trees Sparse and Scrawny Read More »

Replanting In Same Hole for Fruit Trees Usually Not a Problem if Borers are the Reason

Q. I removed a diseased (clarified by saying the only problem was borers) peach fruit tree.  How soon can I plant another peach tree in the same hole? A. If this is from borers, then you can plant immediately. Not a problem with borers and replanting. The entire lifecycle of the borers in our fruit trees are in the aboveground portion of the trees, not the roots or soil.             There is a problem potentially with something called replant disease but it is minor in this case and should be not a problem for you. Remove as much of the root system as possible before planting.

Replanting In Same Hole for Fruit Trees Usually Not a Problem if Borers are the Reason Read More »