Xtremehorticulture

Why ‘Improved Meyer’ Lemon instead of ‘Eureka’ Lemon in St. George Utah

Q. I am writing regarding the purchase and planting of a ‘Eureka’ lemon tree. Of main concern to me is where to plant the tree, where to purchase the tree, what sized tree should I purchase, how often should it be watered and fertilized, and how big should I make the planting hole? Meyer lemon tree growing in a container in Las Vegas. A. a ‘Eureka’ lemon is not a preferred lemon for our area due to its low tolerance of our colder winter temperatures. Meyer lemon begins its cold winter damage at about 25F or a bit less, but ‘Eureka’ lemon starts getting damage at freezing (32F). That’s a 7°F difference in cold tolerance not even considering wind damage! ‘Meyer Lemon’ is not a true lemon like ‘Eureka’, but the flavor is very close. Eureka lemon in Las Vegas             If freezing weather threatens, wheel the tree and container into the garage until the freezing temperature is over then wheel it back out. You can try covering it with a frost blanket. This gives the tree about 5°F of added protection (to about 27°F depending on the wind). You can try Christmas tree lights that radiate heat (it may help a few degrees) but again it depends on the wind. Large unknown lemon grown in Lake Havasu, AZ.             The rest of the information you asked about is the same regardless of the variety. Depending on which variety you want, you may have to purchase it from an online nursery. Select an average sized tree, about 5 gallons in size, and plant it in the warmest microclimate you can find surrounding your house (usually it’s on the south or west side). Amend the soil with compost at planting time and dig the planting hole three times the width of the roots. Plant it 8 to 5 feet from a warm wall and protect it from the wind. Stake it for at least one year if it is a 5-gallon size or larger. Plant wet. Cover the soil with woodchips when finished. Protect it from rabbits.

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Pollinator For Pink Lady Apple?

Q. I purchased a Pink Lady apple tree in the fall. It is doing very well. What besides a crabapple tree is a suitable pollinator for this tree? I have been getting many differing opinions on this. Pink Lady apple harvested in late November. Ooops, the spur broke off. Don’t do that! A. You don’t need a pollinator for that tree. It is self-pollinating in our climate. For the best information on which trees need pollinators you should visit the Dave Wilson nursery website. http://www.davewilson.com/product-information/product/pink-lady-apple

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Hawaiian Tomoto Plant with Yellow Leaves May Be For Many Reasons

Q. I have 4 Hawaiian tomato plants in containers, all producing tomatoes.  On one plant the leaves on lower branches are turning yellow.  The plant appears to be healthy having several flowers and small fruit forming. I fertilized all 4 plants 2 weeks ago with Miracle Gro and was planning to fertilize in 2 week intervals as suggested on product container.  What can be done to prevent the yellowing of leaves on the other 3 plants and resolve the present problem with the one plant in question? A. There could be several things going on. My first reaction was a lack of nitrogen fertilizer until you told me you were using a fertilizer on a regular basis. When plants don’t get enough nitrogen fertilizer the older leaves can turn yellow and die.             You can also look at how much new growth there is since nitrogen is also responsible for stem and leaf growth. If it is not growing and putting on new growth then this can also be an indicator of a lack of nitrogen.             Watering too often and keeping the soil too moist can also cause yellowing of foliage. So if you have mulched the soil and watering frequently then this might also be a potential problem.             Some soil amendments if they have not broken down completely can cause yellowing but this is usually compensated by using fertilizer high in nitrogen. Also poor grade composts can cause yellowing so try to avoid the very inexpensive composts and soil amendments. Good soil amendments are expensive unless you make your own.             If the soil is native desert soil that has been amended with compost or soil amendments, salts can cause yellowing of leaves. There are lots of natural salts in desert soils, frequently at levels too high for most of our landscape and vegetable plants. If your soil is fairly new, it make take a couple of years of compost and growing to get it into good condition.             Salts are removed by leaching or watering the soil with lots of water in and letting it drain over and over in repeating cycles. Salts dissolve easily in fresh water and the draining water carries dissolved salts from the soil to a depth below the roots of the plants. If you use composted native desert soils you should always leach the soil prior to planting.             So look at your soil modifications, how you are watering and whether you have leached the soil or not. If after this you think there is still a problem you might consider replacing the soil.

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Crape Myrtle and Mimosa (Silk tree) Similar in Care

Readers silk tree in excellent shape in rock mulch Q. I have a mimosa tree and I am giving it a lot of TLC and it seems to do well here. A. Your Mimosa or silk tree looks great and is doing well judging from the picture you sent to me.  It looks like it has good growth and a nice dark green color.  You must be giving it a lot of attention as it seems to be thriving there in rock mulch.  I will caution you that these are not long-lived in our climate and tend to suffer a lot of branch dieback or decline as they get older.             They particularly struggle in rock mulch that is fully exposed to summer extremes.  They seem to live a bit longer when surrounded by grass rather than rock mulch.  It has never been diagnosed, to my knowledge, but this decline may be mimosa wilt disease, a disease that infects and plugs the vascular or water transporting system in the tree.  Crape myrtle 20 years old growing in alkaline pH 8.2 soil with little soil amendment  following regimen suggested here. There is some wood mulch at the base of the tree in the irrigation well.             Continue to keep it healthy and it’s possible to keep it going for quite a while.  Another plant which can suffer here in rock mulch is crape myrtle but is, in my opinion, a better tree for here if you give it some TLC like you are doing.  With this tree you can keep it looking good growing in desert soils by fertilizing it with a well balanced fertilizer like 16-16-16 in late January along with iron chelate applied to the soil and watered in.              Follow this about two months later with a liquid fertilizer applied to the leaves until the solution begins running off the leaf surface and dripping onto the soil.  I usually apply a wetting agent with the liquid fertilizer applied to the leaves.  If you can keep plants healthy, they can withstand diseases and extremes of temperature and soils better

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