Xtremehorticulture

Covering a Joshua Tree During Freezes?

Q. I transplanted a Joshua tree into our new backyard in March. It is doing great. Do I need to cover it as temperatures dip down below freezing?  A. No, you do not need to protect it with any kind of freeze protection through the winter. They are good down to about 10F. Make sure you are watering it infrequently or it can develop root rot and die. Fertilize it once lightly in the early spring with a fruit tree or rose fertilizer. Just a quick note on covering plants. If you are using a plant cover that does not allow much light through it, you should be taking it off during the day and replacing it whenever you think temperatures are getting too low. If you are using a frost blanket or frost protection which allows light through it, you will not need to take it off during the day. However, you should remove it as soon as danger of those freezing temperatures have passed.

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Freeze Protection Using White Breathable Fabric

Q. We use a white, breathable fabric for some of our tender desert plants when there’s a chance of freezing temperatures.  We’re at a 3000 foot elevation on the eastern slope of the Spring Mountain Range and temperatures can be 8° F more or less than those reported at McCarren International Airport. We go by the plant description temperatures and for 30 degree forecasts we cover those that could be damaged down to 20 F degrees. Can the fabric be left on continuously for long periods of time even though nighttime temps are higher than 32 degrees if it’s anticipated that in a week or two or more temperatures will drop again below freezing?  Some folks who sell this product say it can be left on all winter but I thought I had better check with you. Row crop cover used for cold protection for vegetable row crops  A. Yes you can leave it on! This is a major advantage with these types of products specifically made for protecting plants from light freezes. They are called by several different names including crop covers, floating row covers, frost blankets and floating row crop covers. Some background on these products will help you understand them. These covers are flexible, nearly transparent, extremely lightweight and made from fabrics that are typically spun or woven. They “breathe” allowing light, rain and air movement through them but still capture heat coming from the ground. They transmit so much light that there shading effect on plants is only somewhere around 15 to 20%. They gained fame primarily in commercial vegetable production about 30 years ago for two distinct reasons; protection of vegetables from light frosts and earlier production. When left on permanently during cool weather, they can raise air temperatures under the fabric about 5 to 6° F which causes vegetables to grow faster which in turn means they can be harvested earlier. Besides protecting young tender plants from freezing temperatures and growing faster, they also provide another valuable advantage; insect protection. In organic production they are a valuable asset to leafy greens that can be damaged from wind, intense sunlight or chewing insects.             Row crop covers are placed over new seedlings or transplants and kept from blowing away with metal staples and a soil covering the edges. They are also used as a covering for low tunnels used in vegetable production. 

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Assess Plant Cold Damage in the Spring and Fix It

Q. Are there are any plants I need to prune or trim down before the frost comes to the Las Vegas valley this year?  I noticed that oleander suffers greatly from frost, foxglove, asparagus ferns, potato vine and a purple flower trumpet flowered plant are kissed when the frost comes. Should these be covered also? A. Damage from frost will be variable in different places throughout the Valley. There are places which are naturally cold spots and others in windy locations. These areas will be hit the hardest.             Then we have the variability of the weather. It was not too long ago that we had unusually Difference in cold damage between two different types of Oleander warm winters where it hardly froze at all. Then we had a terribly brutal winter with the coldest temperatures hitting us in February when plants were just waking up from dormancy.             Then we have variability in the plants themselves. As far as oleanders go, there are winter tender types and there are very cold tolerant types.             My basic advice is to leave most ornamental plants alone. Wait until the coldest part of the winter has passed, or you begin to see the beginnings of new growth, and then remove what has been damaged. Oleander and asparagus fern can be pruned to within a few inches of the ground and they will recover. Oleander will recover by summer if it is pruned to within a few inches of the ground. in late winter             This doesn’t hold true with citrus. Citrus planted in cold locations will have to be protected if you want it to survive or you want fruit.

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