Q. We recently moved to Pahrump. Nevada, What recommendations would you give for fruit bearing plants other than pomegranate and fig? We get some cold nights in Jan and Feb. I posted this climate information from the Internet for Pahrump, Nevada, USA. I was disappointed. The weather can get much colder than this in the winter (down to 10F easily) and hotter in the summer 110F plus. Its saving grace is its elevation which makes it colder than Las Vegas 75 miles away. Plus it does not give much information on the wind which can be brutal during low temperatures and high temperatures. It is on the doorstep to Death Valley. A.  For sure apples and pears, most of the plums will be fine. Take a look at the possibility of sweet and tart cherries and apricots. Although your weather might be too dry for a good fruit set.  There is an active gardening group in Pahrump with many of the active with Cooperative Extension horticulture there   https://www.facebook.com/Pahrump-Master-Gardeners-420253654687416/ Contact them for more specific advice. They have an active Farmers Market during growing times of year https://www.facebook.com/PahrumpFarmersMarket/ You should relate closely to…gardeningwise…. Kingman, Aarizona, and St. George, Utah, as well. Both cities have active gardening groups closely tied to their respective Cooperative Extension offices in Kingman and St. George.   Fruit trees that flower earliest should be planted on slopes. Fruit trees that flower later can be planted in the lower elevations. Remember microclimates and cold air drainage can be a game changer. I can make general recommendations for that climate but it varies even more with your local microclimate. There will be colder areas and warmer areas in the valley due to wind and cold air drainage. Cold air is like water…it drains to low spots. Low areas will have late frosts in the spring and early frosts in the fall. In those areas season extenders such as low and high tunnels aka greenhouses without heaters or cooling pads…would be advised. Select fruit trees in these areas that delay their flowering in the spring as much as possible.   The area protected on the leeward side of a windbreak can be divided into three sections designated here as A, B and C. The area a closest to the windbreak has wind of modified the most, a short distance equal to about 1 to 2 times the height of the windbreak. Area B is modified but less; up to about five times the height of the windbreak. And the sea is modified even less up to about eight times the height of the windbreak. This is why windbreaks should be planted close to the area needing protection. Consider windbreaks to protect the gardening areas. These windbreaks should be very close to your planted area and NOT planting tall trees along the perimeter of the property as so many people hsve done out there. Its a waste of water. The wind is broken up to a distance of about five to eight times its height. Big trees require more water so planting on the perimeter uses alot of water and you get very little benefit from them. To me it looks like a prison, although prettier than fencing.