Xtremehorticulture

Desert Green Presentation on Fertilizing Woody Plants with Notes

Prescription Fertilizers for Trees and Shrubs Notes to the PowerPoint Presentation Desert Green 2013 Robert Ll. Morris, Emeritus University of Nevada [email protected] Desert Green is a conference held annually in Las Vegas for landscape professionals. This is a copy of my presentation on PowerPoint and my notes for the presentation. Slide 1. Title slide with contact information. Slide 2. Characteristics of desert soils. Desert soils contain very little organic matter and they are chemically and physically undeveloped. Because they contain so little organic matter in them, they have very little structure or are structureless. For this reason they sometimes tend to drain poorly. Their alkalinity or pH is normally high. Frequently they contain high levels of salt of all different types. If these soils have never been developed, they can change rapidly both physically and chemically when water is applied to them. Slide 3. There are 16 or 17 nutrients that are essential to plants. Several of these are needed in large amounts and we call these major elements or macronutrients. The rest of the nutrients are needed in a much smaller amounts, still just as essential. These are referred to as minor or micronutrients. All of these nutrients are essential to plant life and if any one of them is missing, the plant will die. If any of these are insufficient for the plant, it can display visual symptoms, poor health and subject to increased disease and insect problems. Bags of fertilizer traditionally contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium if they are a complete fertilizer. These three nutrients are called NPK and their relative amounts determine the fertilizer ratio. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen the plant obtains from air and water. Most desert soils contain adequate amounts of calcium, magnesium and sulfur. Of the minor elements, iron, manganese and zinc can be in short supply to plants because of the soil’s alkalinity or high pH. In most desert soils were landscape plants are being grown, nitrogen is most commonly found in the greatest need by plants. Second to nitrogen is probably available iron. Slide 4. The three numbers on the fertilizer bag give an indicator of the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in the bag, in that order. Sometimes there is a fourth number present. Although not legally required it usually represents the amount of sulfur contained in the fertilizer. The fertilizer ratio tells us the relative amounts of NPK. For instance, if the fertilizer has a ratio of NPK of 3:1:2 then fertilizers such as 12-4-8 and 21-7-14 would represent this ratio. Slide 5. Although all nutrients are needed for a plant to live, nitrogen represents the one nutrient that is universally in short supply. Nitrogen helps to drive plant growth and causes increases in size. It stimulates increased leaf and stem growth, causes a darkening of leaf color, hastens plant growth after winter dormancy and helps to increase the amount of food manufactured by the plant. If applied too late in the year, it will decrease a plant’s hardiness to freezing temperatures. Most nitrogen fertilizers are pure white in color. Most nitrogen fertilizers dissolve easily in water and moves readily through the soil with irrigation water. Slide 6. Lack of nitrogen shows up in plants as slow growth, foliage with a light green color and a lack of density in the canopy. Slide 7. In pine trees a lack of nitrogen shows up in the same way. This translates to a canopy which is not full, small candles and needles occupying the ends of branches while most of the branch is without needles. Slide 8. If too much nitrogen is applied, plants might grow rapidly with an extremely dense canopy and very dark color. When nitrogen is applied in large amounts it can cause scorching to occur on leaves and tip dieback on needles. In some cases it may cause plant death. Applying too much nitrogen is a waste of money and causes environmental problems as well. Slide 9. Adequate amounts of phosphorus is most closely related to good root growth and plant establishment, flowering and fruit production, seed and oil production. When soils are cold and wet this can lead to a lack of phosphorus taken up by plant roots. There is a quick recovery by plants as soon as the soils begin to warm. Phosphorus fertilizers are typically dark in color, usually dark gray or brown. Slide 10. Unlike nitrogen, phosphorus can stay present in the soil for long periods of time, does not dissolve easily in water and does not move through the soil unless the soil is very sandy. Phosphorus levels can build in the soil with repeated applications of high levels. In some cases phosphorus can build to toxic levels with repeated applications. Phosphorus can interfere with other nutrients, iron in particular. Over application is a waste of money and can lead to environmental pollution. Slide 11. Deficiency of phosphorus can sometimes lead to purple discoloration of the plant which disappears when phosphorus becomes available again. This is very common to many plants in cold, wet soils. Slide 12. Potassium is sometimes underappreciated in fertilizer applications. Deficiencies are hard to see since a deficient plant gives no outward symptoms. Potassium chloride, a common potassium fertilizer used in mixing fertilizers together, as a reddish-brown color. Slide 13. Over applying potassium usually will not harm anything and it does not build up in the soil like phosphorus does. Deficiencies of potassium can lead to a plant’s decreased tolerance to stresses such as heat, cold, freezing, disease and others. Slide 14. Nutrients needed in smaller amounts. Of the seven nutrients needed in much smaller amounts, iron, manganese and zinc are the ones most likely to be in short supply for plants growing in alkaline soils. Of the three, iron is by far the one found most efficient in plants. This is odd because iron is one of the most abundant minerals on earth. The key to its limited availability to plants is the pH

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The Truth About Deep Root Fertilization of Trees and Shrubs

Q. Is deep root fertilization a good way to fertilize our African sumac tree, purple sage bushes and the purple plum tree?  I’ve seen advertisements from some landscapers for this process.   Where are the roots of trees and shrubs growing in a lawn? A. There is nothing special or magical about deep root fertilization from landscapers or done by yourself. If done properly, and many do not, the fertilizer is injected into the soil at the depth of the roots. This is usually only a few inches beneath the surface of the soil.             Deep root fertilizer applications have made a name for themselves mostly where trees and large shrubs are growing in a lawn. By applying it beneath the surface of the lawn, high rates of fertilizer are applied without damaging or killing the lawn or causing the lawn to have dark green spots of tall grass where the fertilizer is injected. The rates of fertilizer applied is quite high so the “saltiness” of the fertilizer (all fertilizers are salts of some sort) would normally kill the grass if that fertilizer is applied directly to the lawn. These are the brown spots in your lawn that will occur if you drop fertilizer on one spot or place it too shallow under the lawn. It should be 6 to 8 inches under the surface.             Also, lawn grasses are fertilizer “hogs”. Because of their fibrous root system they take fertilizer, nitrogen in particular, easily and quickly from the soil thus robbing it from deeper rooted trees and shrubs. By placing a complete fertilizer (one containing all three elements, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) several inches beneath the soil surface, it places the slower moving phosphorus and potassium right at where the roots are feeding.             Commercial companies will usually use a liquid fertilizer and inject it with what is called a “soil needle” or deep root feeder. This is a probe that is connected to a tank on the back of a truck containing a fertilizer solution. A hose comes from the tank through a pump and, under high pressure, the liquid fertilizer is injected into the soil. Granular fertilizer placed next to a bubbler in wood mulch so the fertilizer will be moved to the roots by the water coming from the bubbler.             Real fancy units will allow the operator to squeeze the handle on the injector (a probe with holes in it to allow the fertilizer solution to injected into the ground) and inject a precise amount of fertilizer solution with each injection. The operator can inject the soil in dozens of places under the tree very quickly an be on his or her way.             You will know if they are doing it correctly by how deeply they push the injector. If they push it too deeply, the fertilizer will be placed beyond the plant roots and a large amount will be wasted. If they don’t push it deep enough and it is in a lawn, then you may have burn spots in the lawn. Burn spots are usually less of a problem in the winter months.             You can do deep root fertilize your own trees and shrubs by using tree and shrub fertilizer stakes and pounding them into the soil beneath the soil surface a few inches. You can also do it by irrigating the lawn and, while the soil is still moist, pushing a shovel into the soil in spacings about two feet apart under the canopy. Fertilizer stake. The plastic cap is placed over the fertilizer stake so that it does not shatter when pounded into the wet soil under a tree near the source of water.             The shovel is pushed into the soil all the way, pushed forward so that the slit cut by the shovel is open, and dropping some fertilizer into the open slit. You then pull the shovel out and push the slit closed with your foot. Irrigate immediately after you are finished.             If your trees are in a desert landscape with drip irrigation then the whole idea of deep root fertilizer comes into question. When trees and shrubs are watered by drip irrigation then I would question whether deep root fertilizer applications are necessary. All the fertilizer will be “pushed” by watering from the drip emitters.             Roots of trees and shrubs in a rock or desert landscape will not grow like they would in a lawn. Instead, with drip irrigation, roots grow profusely near the emitters and do not go “searching” for water or grow toward water. They are not psychics.             With drip emitters is best to drop your fertilizer in slits next to the emitters or use tree fertilizer stakes at the emitters.

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