Xtremehorticulture

Correction of Cycad (Sago Palm) of Yellow Fronds

Q. My sago palms (actually cycads) planted in my yard are turning yellow. Can you tell from this picture what they need? Yellow fronds of sago palm can arise because of its planted location, poor soil used for planting, and watering. A. You have three choices about why the fronds are yellowing: their location (landscape exposure), needed soil amendments (including fertilizers), and improper watering. It is up to you to figure which one (or several at the same time) might be responsible.             Judging from the pushing of new growth from the plants center, I think they are getting enough water during the week. Water this plant three times a week, not more often than that. Don’t reduce the weekly amount of water it is getting! Notice the artificial grass that was installed. Removal of a lawn and replacing it with nothing that adds to the soil can cause yellowing of fronds due to a slow decline of organic matter in the soil.             When you are watering, apply it to a depth of 12 to 18 inches. This will mean that you need to apply in a single application anywhere from 5 to 8 gallons of water. Apply this water through three emitters, located 12 inches from its trunk, to get a good distribution of water. Don’t split the application of water in the morning and another in the afternoon. That’s silly unless you see an enormous puddle of water when you irrigate. If water puddles on the soil surface, split the application of water into two applications an hour or less apart. Rooting depth and how deep to water varies with the size of the plant. Taller plants need deeper (and less frequent) watering.             This plant is originally from the richer soils of northern India. It evolved with these types of soils. It doesn’t like the extremely low organics of desert soils! Iron fertilizers should be added to the soil in the early spring but now is okay to do it. Be sure to add this composted soil where the soil gets wet. If the compost you are adding comes in a bag without a description, then it is probably low in fertilizers as well. Mix in the appropriate fertilizers to the compost before mixing it with the soil. Late in the growing season requires spraying iron on the foliage several times about a week apart to be effective.             Make sure any surface mulch is at least two inches deep. Using mulch adds one or two days of extra water! Mulch can be crushed rock or wood chips. Wood chips are better because they decompose in wet soil adding organics to it as the wood chips decompose. Crushed rock doesn’t add any organics back to the soil. You should add organics to the soil (compost) every two years if the mulch is crushed rock. Rock surface mulch adds minerals to the soil as it breaks down, not organics.  Plants have to handle that.             If a lawn was removed in the past three to five years this might explain the yellowing as lawn adds “organics” back to the soil. Removing the lawn also removes the “organics” added by lawns. Lawns add organics back to the soil from its root growth and lawn clippings left to decompose.             I don’t think this cycad will be better in a different location’ but cycads grow best on the north and east sides of a home. They prefer to grow with morning sun and afternoon shade.

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Best Iron to Use is EDDHA Chelated Iron

Q. I’m starting to think about the springtime approaching and the need for fertilizing. Do you have an “iron Fertilizer” you recommend? We added the compost you suggested but I want to make sure we are on top of the iron needs of our plants. Iron chelate fertilizer that works in all soils. Its a bit more expensive but it is a guarantee. The others will work most of the time. A. The iron chelate I like to use is a little bit more expensive. The reason I recommend it is because of its stability in both highly alkaline and highly acidic soils. It works regardless of the soil or its alkalinity (soil pH). I consider it cheap insurance. Severe iron chlorosis on a peach seedling. Chlorosis is any yellowing leaving behind green veins. Iron chlorosis occurs all summer long but it is on new growth. Iron should be applied sometime in the early or mid spring, before April in our climate. The chelate I like to use is EDDHA iron chelate. It comes under several names but as long as the iron is bound to the EDDHA chelate then it is what I recommend. Other types of chelates and iron fertilizers stop working in highly alkaline soils. This is another iron chelate fertilizer called EDTA. It works in most soils. It is the most common form of chelated iron fertilizers for plants because its more available and cheaper.             If you are adding compost to compost amended soil then any chelate or iron fertilizer will probably work whether it is iron sulfate, brake filings, or iron chelates such as EDTA or DTPA This is because soils that have compost added to them usually are not strongly alkaline. The compost additions, along with water, usually lowers the alkalinity of the soil. The chelated iron I prefer, iron EDDHA, works over all of the different soil pH or alkalinity.             Any iron fertilizer or chelate MUST be applied and mixed with the soil in the early spring (sometime soon after February 1 in our Las Vegas climate). Soil applications get less effective as the growth begins stopping. By mid to late summer you must switch to iron fertilizers applied as a liquid to the leaves for acceptable results. This usually requires several applications to shrub leaves. Iron fertilizers applied wet to the leaves (foliar applications of iron) are not as effective and may need to be applied to the leaves of trees and shrubs several times to work.

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Ash Trees Do Not Normally Need Applied Iron

Q. Should I give my ash trees the same iron treatment as fruit trees? A. Ash trees seldom need iron so unless you are seeing some yellow leaves with green veins in the spring and summer months I would save your money. They will do better with organic wood mulches on the surface.             But they seem to do all right with rock mulch but most of the ashes would prefer the soil to have more organic material in it. Arizona ash seems to be perhaps an exception. Fertilize them once in late January or early February with a tree and shrub fertilizer. Ash tree used as a street tree in North Las Vegas

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Will Green Light Chelate Cure Iron Chlorosis in Highly Alkaline Soils

Q. I used a product called Green Light. It contains chelated iron, copper and zinc for correcting plants that are yellow. Is this similar to the chelate you talk about for our soils? A. I know the Green Light chelate product and it will not be very effective in our tap water which is alkaline or our well water. It will also not work in most of our soils because they are also too alkaline. This product will work if you adjust the water with some acid and use it as a spray on the leaves of the plant. If you have a gallon of water you can put a small amount of vinegar or pool acid used to adjust alkalinity of pool water. Test the water with some pool pH strips or a kit if you are using pool acid. If you are using vinegar, two or three tablespoons of vinegar in a gallon of water should be enough. After adding the acid and mixing the water you can add chelates to the spray solution. Follow the label directions and then add two more things to your mix. First, add a small amount of liquid fertilizer or a powdered fertilizer that dissolves in the water. Secondly, add about a teaspoon of liquid detergent to the finished spray mix. Make sure everything is dissolved and thoroughly mixed. This spray solution must be used very soon after it is prepared. Use it all up and don’t save any of it. It will probably not last. Use this mixture any time temperatures are cool. Only spray long enough until you begin seeing this liquid spray run off of the leaf surface. Spray both sides of the leaves; once over the tops of the leaves and a second time with the spray pointing up so the undersides of the leaves are sprayed as well. The addition of a liquid detergent to the mix will help move the solution inside the leaf. The small amount of fertilizer will make the chelate more effective. If leaves have already become quite yellow, spray them once every few days for about four or five applications.

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Roses in the Hot Desert Do Well But Different From Growing in New Jersey

Garden rose not doing well in our desert soils. They can do VERY well if you just follow some simple advice Q. This past spring I cleared a large “L” shaped area in my yard and planted 8 various rosebushes. They have sun from about 9 a.m. to about 5 p.m. They are watered in the evening and fed regularly. They are well planted with planting medium in large holes, and then mulched. All flowered during the spring and early summer. Now, however, they are very spindly looking. The leaves left on them are brown and the stems are turning brown. There are no bugs that I can see. I tugged on them and they are still firm in the ground. Have they died and should I replace them, or wait until spring and see what comes back? Should I cut them back, and if so, how much? I do not want to cut too much off. Leaf scorch on rose due to lack of soil improvement, no organic mulches used and not using an iron chelate as part of your fertilizer program A. Roses will grow best in an eastern exposure with protection from late afternoon sun. They can grow in full sun but they will be best grown in the exposure I mentioned. It is important to use a good compost mixed in the planting soil at the time of planting as well as a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus. Make sure your plants were planted the same depth as in the container or in the nursery if bare root. Make sure the bud union or dog leg on the stem is above ground and not buried. Make sure you stake the rose bush at the time of planting. The stake should not move if you do it correctly. I use a two foot piece of 3/8 inch rebar and tie the rose stem tightly to the rebar with green nursery tape and remove it after one growing season. Roses do well on drip irrigation. Use two emitters per plant or you can use drip pipe with inline emitters such as Netafim, Geoflow or equivalent product. If on drip it is important to note the amount of water the emitters deliver per hour and adjust your time on the emitters so that each plant gets about two to three gallons every time they are irrigated. Irrigations should be about two to possibly three times per week this time of year. Less often as it gets cooler but the length of time or hours should remain the same. Roses doing quite well in our hot desert climate and poor soils It is best to use a wood mulch rather than a rock mulch. All mulches must be pulled away from the rose stems at least 6 inches at the time of planting or the roses can get crown rot on the stem and die. Fertilize roses once in January with a rose fertilizer plus a soil applied iron chelate containing EDDHA. Follow label directions. You can fertilize again lightly after the heat of the summer has passed to help stimulate fall rose production. This should get you going. My guess is that they may have been planted too deep or the mulch touching the rose stems may have caused collar rot or irrigations may have been inadequate; either too often or not enough water. Just a hunch.

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