Xtremehorticulture

How to Water a Landscape With Two Valves (One front, one back)

Q. I have a LOT of different shrubs and trees on only 2 valves (front & back). The shrubs have 2 emitters per shrub and range from 2- 2gph for plants like photinia, red autumn sage, fountain grass, jasmine vines, rhaphiolepsis etc.; and  2-4gph on euonymus, abelias, boxwood, honeysuckle vines etc. The trees have more emitters. My landscaper told me to water 6 days per week for 2-20 minutes per day (equals 4 hours per week). Star nursery advised me to water only 3 times per week for 45 minutes per day. Plant World advised 6 days per week. So, what to do?             My biggest problem is my 8 year old magnolia tree, trunk diameter about 5″, has 4-4gph emitters. It used to be very full, now it’s about 10 ‘ high & the leaves are dark brown, dry and falling off.  All help would be appreciated. A. You even confused me. In their defense I would have to say it’s possible that all three could be right. Because plants are adaptable to different situations there can be several right answers to one irrigation question. Nurseries are there to provide service, the best answers they can muster up. I am an educator so let me take a stab at it from an educator’s point of view. I would like to give you enough information so you can solve your own problem with irrigation. But you I think already realize that this is not the best irrigation setup for conserving water. You will have considerable waste even though it is on drip irrigation just because you have so few valves. Bear with me on this. Let’s all agree for the most part that as plants get larger they will require more water. Let’s also agree that large plants will use more water, and considerably more water, is one smaller plant. The larger the plant, the more water it should receive. Irrigation valves are basically an on and off switch for water; when the valve is open, water flows. When the valve is closed, water stops flowing. Since you have one valve in the front and one valve in the back, these switches open water to all of your plants in the front at the same time and the valve in the back does the same for plants in the back. There are three basic questions that must be answered; 1) how long to water, 2) how much should be applied, and 3) when to apply it. The valves basically solve the question when to water. The drip emitters solve the question about how much to water. Irrigation clock answers the question when to water. The irrigation valves allow water to flow and the emitters determine the amount of water applied to each plant. The length of time the valve is open combined with the size of the emitter determine the amount of water delivered plant. This is where the confusion begins. To make it as easy as possible to irrigate let’s hold one of these variables constant. Arbitrarily, let’s hold the length of time the irrigation valve is open to one hour. Just for the sake of argument. It could be 30 minutes, it could be 90 minutes, but let’s just hold it at 60 minutes. If we make this decision first, how many minutes to open the valves, it can make our other decisions much simpler. So we now agree the valve will be open for 60 minutes for drip emitters. This is how I typically determine an irrigation schedule for drip. To determine how much water each plant will get we have to size our drip emitters. Because of plugging, it can be a little bit dangerous to give plants only one emitter. If that’s emitter plugs, chances are we will lose the plant in a short period of time during the summer. To determine how much water to give the plant at each watering or when the valve is on we look at its size. The smaller plants of course require less every time the valve is on. So for the sake of argument let’s do this. Let’s give a plant 1 gallon of water every time the valve is open (in this case one hour) for every foot of its mature size. A very small plant may get 1 to 2 gallons. A medium-sized plant may get 3 to 6 gallons. A large shrub may get 8 to 15 gallon every time it’s watered. The larger the plant, the more emitters it will need under its canopy. A very small plant may require one to two emitters. A medium sized plant might require 3 to 4 emitters. A large shrub might require 6 to 8 emitters. So now you will take the number of gallons you are giving this plant and divide it by the number of emitters you will provide for each plant. When you do this, you will determine the number and size of the emitters you will give to each plant. So for instance a medium sized plant may get 3 to 6 gallons at each watering delivered by 3 to 4 emitters. So the size of the emitters might be 1 to 2 gallons per hour. But I would keep all the emitters going to one plant at the same size. So what if it’s one or 2 gallons more than you calculated. What is important is that you apply enough water during one irrigation to water the entire rootzone of each plant (plus a little extra to keep those salts in our city water flushed out of the rootzone). So now we have answered two of the questions; how long to run the valve and as a result of that how much water each plant will get because you have selected the correct size and number of emitters. The next and last question is probably the most difficult to answer. Remember, you have elected to set the time that the

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Removing White Salt Deposits on Walls With Acid

Q. Our backyard block wall has some white stains on it. These appear where the sprinkler water hits the wall and I want to remove them.  I have read on-line to use things like diluted muriatic acid, but I don’t want to kill the plants my wife has throughout her garden.  How can I clean the stains, and can I treat the walls to protect from more stains forming Salt deposit on slumpstone wall when plants are being irrigated by bubblers. Salt in the water is carried up the wall where it evaporates, leaving behind the salts. The other side of the wall does not have sprinklers hitting it either. A. These are salts remaining from either those sprinklers or water from the soil wicking up the wall. Our soils contain quite a bit of salt as well as our water. Water coming from Lake Mead carries about 1 ton of salts for every 326,000 gallons. It sounds fairly dilute but it is not.              Our soils vary much more in salt and can be removed by leaching. The salt in the water of course is consistent. The combination of the two can mean some pretty high salt levels. Salt dissolves readily in water and when the water evaporates from the wall, it leaves the salt behind. These are probably the salt deposits you’re seeing on the wall. Even drip irrigation can cause problems like this since the water can wick through and into porous surfaces.             You don’t have to use muriatic acid but you can use and acid, even vinegar to help remove it. The major concern with plants is having the acid fall on foliage. This will damage the plant. Of course the best way to prevent it is to not use overhead irrigation.             In the case of drip irrigation, put the emitters on the opposite side of the plant from the wall, not next to the wall. Perhaps there is a treatment to the wall that could prevent this from happening. I don’t know of any.

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Zimbabwe and the Baobob Tree

  Hosted at the Bradshaw’s house in Harare. Geoffrey was a fantastic guide in helping me work with local farmers  I went to Zimabwe in August of 2011 to work with some local farmers on some irrigation schemes. They call them irrigation schemes if a group of farmers all use the same source for watering their fields. So for instance if the source of water is a river and there is a diversion from the river (can be a canal or a pump) then everyone getting water from that diversion would be on the same scheme. Sometimes this is a very large main canal and if this main canal is split into two canals and the water can be diverted (forced to go into one or the other but not both at the same time) then each of these would be an irrigation scheme.   Using siphon eight siphon tubes to bring water from the lined canal to flood their onions So I worked with about 17 of these schemes with an average number of farmers of about 200 or so. I primarily worked with issues of “governance” surrounding these schemes (how is the water going to be managed and shared so that they all get an equal share?). But if you have never been to this part of the world then it is a treat. The fields are irrigated on a rotational basis determined by when water is released to them by the government agency that controls water deliveries from surface sources such as rivers. Baobob tree reaching estimated ages of 3,000 years old or more In southern Africa there is a tree that is quite remarkable called the Baobab or Baobob. I prefer to call it Baobob because it reminds me of me. Locals use it for as a food source by opeing the fruit (kind of dry on the inside) and sucking on the seeds. Kind of a citrusy flavor if you suck on the semi-dry pulp surrounding the seed. It is normally found in the drier regions of the country, regions such as IV and V. The outer bark can be removed multiple times from the trees without apparent damge to them and this is then woven into mats and used in the homes or the mats are sold along the roads to people passing by, usually tourists. Fruits of the baobob which has a pretty dry pulp on the inside but sucking on the seeds and the surrounding pulp of the seeds reveals kind of a pleasand citrusy taste The outer bark is removed from baobob, woven and used for making mats for flooring and sold along the roads

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