Xtremehorticulture

Practice Watering and Managing Plants with a Hose and Lopper? Try Jojoba.

Jojoba (Simmondsia californica) Do you want practice managing a plant that does not need much water by pruning it? Try this Sonoran Desert native plant, Jojoba, and see how you do. I was introduced to this plant in the mid-1980s when it was getting popular as a source of oil. It’s again popular but this time because it doesn’t use much water. Like most desert plants, it responds to watering by growing. This was a picture of Jojoba taken by Andrea Meckley and posted on my blog in 2014.https://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2014/09/desert-plants-jojoba.html You can read more about this plant here in a post by Andrea Meckley I published on this blog in 2014. Details about Jojoba Growth of this plant is tied very closely to watering frequency; 1 to 2 inches of water, 3 to 5 times each year. It has the potential for saving water in the landscape if you know how to water and prune it. Most fruit trees require about 50 inches of water each year. This plant grows with 5 to 8 inches of applied water. If you water it with your controller this is what you are likely to get. This is a jojoba on an irrigation timer.https://www.public.asu.edu/~camartin/plants/Plant%20html%20files/Irrigated%20jojoba.jpg ·       Unpruned height is nearly 20 feet tall. It grows this tall slowly. Height can be kept 5 to 6 feet tall if pruned once a year or every other year. Don’t prune it from the top with a loppers or hedge shears. Get on your hands and knees and prune it with a loppers or hand shears at the base.  Can it be grown taller and pruned into a small tree? Perhaps. I haven’t tried it. Pruning the lower limbs from this giant shrub(above) might make a nice small patio tree. ·       Evergreen plant unless it gets very cold (lower than 20F) and then it drops its leaves and becomes deciduous. At very cold temperatures (below 15F) the top of this plant may die to the ground. ·       Cold temperature limits: 20°F ·       High temperature limits: 125°F + ·       Irrigation: 5 to 8 inches of water each year. Give it 1 to 2 inches of water in the spring, do that twice in the summer months and once in the fall. Apply this water in a basin or donut surrounding the tree to contain the water and reduce water waste. Do not put this plant on an existing irrigation system or you will be sorry because of it’s growth. ·       Planting location: east side of a building or wall is best but tolerates full sun (south or west sides) if planted at least 5 feet from a hot surface. Tolerates planting of rock mulch on the surface of the soil. ·       Spacing from each other or walls: depends on plants mature height. If grown 20 feet in height than planting distance is no closer than 15 feet apart (8 feet from a wall). If pruned to 6 feet height, then plant them no closer than force feet apart (2 feet from a wall). Male and female plants are wind pollinated much like date palms and corn. If they are propagated by the nursery from seed, then you get 50-50 male and female unless there sexed. If plants are vegetatively propagated (no sex involved) then they will be either all-male or all-female if they came from the same plant. Male plants may cause a pollen problem. Female plants produce the fruit and oil. If these plants are watered too often or the soil has poor drainage, watering frequently on the controller may cause root problems, yellowing and plant death. Directions for planting Jojoba: 1.     Pick a location for planting, preferably on the east side of your home. The north and south sides are okay as well but the east side is preferred. Pick a spot that is at least half the distance from a wall equal to the height you want it maintained at. 2.     Plant Jojoba (Simmondsia californica) without any drip or supplemental irrigation. It’s okay to put it into a rock landscape. Build a level basin or donut around the plant 4 feet in diameter that can hold 2 inches of water. When watering with a hose, fill this basin or donut only once. Reestablish the irrigation basin when it no longer holds enough water. 3.     Make the hole for it wide and the same depth as the container or roots. The roots of this plant need places to spread horizontally easily. 4.     Stake the plant to establish the roots without wind for one growing season and then remove the stake. 5.     After planting in the spring or fall, wet the soil thoroughly to remove air pockets and establish the roots. 6.     Fertilize this shrub lightly once a year in the spring or fall or when needed. 7.     Manage this plant’s growth by watering its basin. 8.     Prune this plant at its base or bottom. Never prune this plant at its desired height. Prune this plant from your knees. Prune this plant by removing long stems (usually 2-4) near its base (renewal or rejuvenation pruning). Do not prune once a year. Usually not necessary unless it’s being watered too often. Every two years, or whenever needed. Where to get Jojoba? Check with your local nurseries and see if they haven’t first. They usually have some sort of guarantee if it fails. Don’t forget to check Lowes or Home Depot as well. Online nurseriesCalifornia online native plant nursery, Las Pilitas     Arizona online nursery, Desert Horizon Nursery Listing these online nurseries is not an endorsement of any specific nursery. I don’t know them. It’s just a suggestion.

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Wet the Soil First Before Digging the Planting Hole

Q. I’m finally having my empty backyard landscaped. It’s the typical subdivision super hard “soil”. Should it be amended somehow before the new plants are added? More than just in the hole where the plant goes, I mean. Wet the soil first a few days before digging. Moist soil helps to make it softer. Mix compost with the soil taken from the hole by about 25 to 33%. A. Some of the landscape soils are hard, hard, hard! Wet the area to be planted with an hour of sprinkler water from a hose and sprinkler a few days before digging. This water will help make it softer to dig. I would recommend amending the soil in the planting hole with compost or another amendment a few days after it is wetted. Amend it between 25 to 33% with compost (one shovelful of compost to 3 or 4 shovelfuls of soil). The hole for the plant should be dug and amended to a width three times the size of the diameter of the container or roots. Then check it for drainage. The hole should drain water overnight. Wet amended soil should be at least chocolate brown in color. Holes located where fruit trees are to be grown are wetted and amended with compost by about 25 to 33%.             The hole does not have to be dug deeper than the container but should be dug three times the root width of the plants. Amend that soil taken from the hole. The only time the soil needs to be dug deeper than the container is when the soil is very bad at draining water. If a planting hole is filled with water and it drains this water overnight, then the drainage is good enough; three times the width of the roots/container is enough soil preparation. Younger trees are planted in wet, amended soil, covered in woodchips and staked to prevent them from blowing over in strong winds.             If the water does not drain from the hole overnight, you should plant on top of an embankment or a small hill. If you are planting a medium sized shrub (6 to 10 feet tall) in this spot, then the soil in the amended mound or hill should be 12 inches tall and about three or four feet wide. If the tree or shrub is 20 feet tall then the soil mound should be 18 inches high. Cover this soil with a mulch of some sort, either woodchips or rock depending on the type of plant.

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Compost’s Role in Landscapes

            Using composts as soil amendments in vegetable gardens has been a no-brainer in the past. We knew it contributed to soil organic matter content. Most vegetables benefited from high levels of soil organic matter so we had no problem adding it to vegetable beds. How much organic matter is enough?             We were taught in school that productive agricultural soils generally contain from 2 to 5% organic matter; some required more than others depending on what was grown. In soils with adequate amounts of organic matter, additions were not needed. But that concept of “one size fits all” when it comes to organic amendments is being challenged and the challengers are winning. We have been educated that the ideal soil has 5% organic matter in it. But is that really enough for all plants?              We were told by scientists that landscape plants would not benefit from the addition of organic matter and that amending the soil at the time of planting was not necessary. Those of us working in arid and desert soils of the West and Southwest quietly challenged that generality and continued to add organic matter like composts to our landscape soils. We could see the benefit. What is a “healthy soil”?             Research during the past 20 years has challenged some of our previous thinking.  In many of our soils, regular additions of organic matter and its decomposition to humus is a necessary step in maintaining a vibrant and “healthy” soil and productive plants. Terms like soil health, soil food webs and soil ecology have become mainstream now. We have always been told that a healthy and vibrant soil contains lots of worms. But does their presence really indicate that’s all that’s needed?             Composting is the process used to convert organic matter into humus and employs many of the same microorganisms that perform the same function in soil. The concepts are very similar. The major difference is that composting provides a greater degree of control over organic matter breakdown than if it were left to an unregulated soil environment.             Fungal and bacterial colonies, earthworms and soil inhabiting insects feed on organic matter. Microbial slimes and gums are produced when organic matter is converted to humus. These byproducts of composting and organic matter breakdown help cement soil particles together. Most mushrooms are “saprophytic” which means they “feed” off of dead things, not living things. The presence of mushrooms in a soil is one sign that something in the soil is decomposing or breaking down. This decomposition is important for recycling, building organic matter and renewing life in the soil.             This altered soil structure is filled with voids that permit the entry, percolation and exchange of water and gases. Improved soil structure or “tilth” is a major benefit from the breakdown of organic matter or the addition of compost.             Byproducts from the decomposition of organic matter and the feeding by soil organisms improve the soil further by altering the soil chemistry and providing organic compounds that stabilize nutrients and assist in chemical reactions necessary for plant survival. Some companies capitalize on the idea that compost adds “life” to soils like this ad campaign by Viragrow, Inc.             When organic matter declines, humus levels decline as well. “Soil health” declines and with it landscape plants suffer. The rate of decline depends on many things including the type of soil, climate, management, nature of the organic matter and other factors. Renewing soil organic matter with compost             If deteriorating soil health is not caught soon enough, large volumes of quality soil organic amendments, such as compost, are needed in a process called soil remediation to bring the soil “back from the dead”. Compost additions to soil improve it by adding aeration, improving water retention while also improving drainage at the same time, and rebuilding life in the soil.             With these additions we see the improvement in soil health reflected in our landscape plants; more vigorous and healthier growth, more tolerance to environmental extremes, small amounts of fertilizer achieve greater results, less water is needed and plants experience fewer pest problems. Managing soil health             As managers of plants we must also manage our soils. The percentage of organic matter in a soil, and thus its humus content, is terribly important. Most soil test results provide the soil organic matter content.             But, is knowing the organic content of our soils enough? To know how much and when to put it back, it is best to know how fast it disappears. Knowing the rate of organic matter decomposition is a powerful management and budgeting tool. With this type of knowledge we understand how often and how much compost to budget for to maintain soil and plant health.              Similar to the composting process, the most powerful external factors controlling the conversion of soil organic matter into humus and its eventual disappearance are moisture and temperature. If soils are kept moist, accumulated soil temperature is the driving force in the loss of soil organic matter. At higher temperatures, soils decompose organic matter faster than in cooler soils. Hot, moist soils need additions of organic matter more often than cool, moist soils. Compost used as a fertilizer             Organic matter releases the nutrients it contains for plant uptake only when it decomposes. By decomposing, plants benefit as well as the macro and microorganisms that live in the soil. Decomposing organic matter also helps support beneficial soil bacteria, fungi and earthworm populations. The decomposition process of organic matter contributes to the breakdown of soil minerals which in turn further release the native plant nutrients they contain. There are enough nutrients in compost that it can act like a fertilizer. Composts very in their nutrient content so it is difficult to claim them as a fertilizer. Some contain more nutrients than others. It depends on the components used in making the compost.             In ways not well understood yet by scientists, the addition

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Italian Cypress Dying in Same Spot After Three Attempts

Not the readers pic but Italian cypress dying next to each other Q. I have a walkway about 5 feet wide, from the curb to the front door.  Approaching the entrance but not near the building, there’s an Italian Cypress on either side of the walkway, simulating pillars.  One of them is lush and almost as tall as the 2 story house.  It has been in about 4 years. On the other side, the tree died after maybe 2 years in.  I watched it closely… how it died from the inside – nearest the trunk – out, and more so on the sunny side.  I had a tree expert out to access it… we tried Bayer systemic to no avail…  so we took it out and replaced it, and this time I had to get a more mature tree to match the other one. I simply can’t believe it… the new one is dying to!  It barely learned to stand on its own (without its stake), and now it’s dead!  There’s something about the spot !  I’m amazed that whatever it is hasn’t jumped over to the other tree!  It must be something there, in that spot!  Please help me.  Do you know who and/or where I can send or take a sample of the soil from under the tree (when we take it out) and a sample of its roots so a scientist can #1, look at the soil under a microscope and  Another problem thought to be associated with overwatering It cypress. Branch droop. see if they see anything that’s causing this; and #2, look at the roots and see if they detect some disease that ‘s causing this…  maybe that the trees are contracting from the soil? My heart breaks when any  tree dies…  but these are so essential to my facade, and I love Cypresses; at Christmas I put twinkling lights on them,  …they just bring me so much joy, and this is such an unimaginable freaky curse of a problem…   and now, I’m going to have to invest in a special ordered, really huge and lush tree to match the other one, and if I don’t discover what’s killing the tree in this particular spot, the new one will die too!  Imagine, if that happens, I’ll have to give up and chop down the huge, beautiful one I’ve had from a little 5 or 6 footer ’cause the entrance looks dopey with one big Cypress on one side….  🙁   !!!!! Please don’t think this has anything to do with spider mites…  I have learned all about spider mites…!  (Back about 1988 (in a different house) in the winter when you don’t look at your plants that much, I finally noticed that my Cypress trees were completely embalmed in spider web!!!    …I thoroughly washed them with dish soap and, of coarse, rinsed them well, and they survived…!  :)) When I noticed this one dying a few months ago, I washed it and washed it; I figured if it was something on the tree I might wash it away, and if it were something in the soil, maybe I would flush it away…  then I poked deep holes to give air to the roots…  it has just kept dying. Thank you so, so much for anything you can do to help with this…  A. Yes, it is possible there might be something in the soil remaining from the construction of the home.  If that is the case the it would be much cheaper to dig out the soil and replace it down to a depth of perhaps 2 to 3 feet in the planting area.  To have a soil examined for an unknown problem would be terribly expensive and you would probably learn nothing.  So if you are this concerned there is something in the soil, then replace it.  Let’s assume that your soil is fine.  If an entire plant dies then the problem is either in the soil, the roots, or lower trunk.  Then it might have something to do with how the plant is managed once it has been planted or even how it is planted.  I do think you could plant a smaller tree and through some pruning over the next couple of years they could become matched fairly well. Planting.  Never allow Italian cypress to be planted deeper than it was in the container.  Don’t dig the hole deeper than you need to in case of settling.  If existing soil is piled around the trunk of the tree or even a wood mulch and kept moist it can rot the base of the tree causing what we call collar rot and very quickly die, usually in the heat of the summer.  When the tree is removed, the trunk of the tree at the location where it enters the soil will be brown and rotten.  This is not easily seen unless a trained eye is looking for it. Once disease organisms causing collar rot have attacked plant roots and the lower trunk in a spot, the disease organism can be a big problem for plants put in the same spot. Some fungal disease organisms that cause collar rot (there are at least five) can be extremely virulant to the same or similar plants planted in the same hole. Italian cypress can be very sensitive to soils which do not drain easily or are watered too frequently and the roots kept wet.  It might not be a bad idea to replace the soil and make sure that the soil being used drains freely after an irrigation.  This would eliminate that problem.  Any soil that you are bringing in should be amended with organic matter such as compost. Irrigation.  Italian cypress likes to enjoy the wet winters and hot dry summers of a Mediterranean climate.  Water them deeply but infrequently.  Make sure the soil drains freely.  I would rather have them under-watered than watered too often.  Make sure enough water is applied during an irrigation to wet the soil to a depth of 24

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Cleveland Sage a Great Choice for Beauty and Fragrance

Q. I am trying to identify this bush/plant. It is in a desert landscape. Poor picture (sorry) but the blooms are blue/purple and seem to grow out of the center of the bloom below. Each bloom is shaped like a pinwheel with small flowers around the edge. Each stem/stalk supports 4 or 5 of the pinwheels, each spaced evenly up the stem. Very interesting and pretty. Cleveland sage picture submitted by reader A. The picture is a bit fuzzy which doesn’t help with my old eyes but I think what you have is Salvia clevelandii or Cleveland Sage, or Blue Sage. It gets its name from being named in the Cleveland National Forest which is east and north of San Diego.             I really love the plant for its visual beauty but one extra is the wonderful fragrance of the foliage. Even on warm days with just the lightest of zephyrs the fragrance wafts all around. Terry Mikel Here is another shot of Cleveland sage

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