Xtremehorticulture

Camelias Not for the Inexperienced Gardener in the Desert

Q. I wonder if you can help me diagnose a problem with my camellia, the variety is “Marie Bracey”. I had it in a container while it was young and my husband moved it for me to our back yard where it gets the morning sun and afternoon shade which is what the card read that was attached. It was growing fine but now there are about 30  leaves that have brown tips. Another question, the card says to cut back after flowering, which has not happened yet but it does not explain how to cut it and to what level. A. You are fighting an “uphill battle” growing camellias in the Las Vegas valley since they require similar conditions to azaleas and rhododendrons. Not that you can’t do  it but it will take quite a bit of care on your part. There are camellia societies, the counterparts to rose societies, on the southern east coastal areas and west coastal areas and inland in northern California. You have the Japanese camellia type. These plants are medium to large shrubs and even trees so it may take some time for it to get big enough to flower. Link to International Camelia Society Link to American Camelia Society Nice link to information and pictures of Camelias Another camellia I know you are familiar with is Chinese camellia, the plant that is used to make teas like black teas, green teas and Oolongs. So this plant does not come from the desert parts of the world. This will give you some insight as to what you will have to do; improve the soil a lot and give it some protection from the harsh desert environment. You did that by following the card attached to it. But just a warning. That card was not intended for Las Vegas but for more friendly camellia environments so you may need to take what it says a step further. Even morning sun may be too intense for it if it extends into late morning and thus contribute to the browning of the leaf edges. Other things that can contribute to leaf scorch are the poor soil conditions we have and the salty water coming from Lake Mead to our taps. Those people with well water frequently have much better water than the water coming from our taps. Another problem you will most likely have will be yellowing leaves. Camellias like the soil to be slightly acid and our soils are not. This will mean that iron will be tough for the plant to get in a form it can use. The only way to provide that kind of iron is to make the soil more acid or give it iron in a form it can use. Lots of decayed or decaying organic material will help in the soil around the roots and on the soil surface on top of the roots. Sulfur applications will also help but the sulfur should be pulverized into a powder, not like little rocks if it is to be effective. So usually the more effective way to apply iron so the plant can use it is to use chelates. Like the broken record I am, the chelate EDDHA combined with the iron is the most effective way for iron to reach the plants in our soils. Sulfur granules applied to the soil surface two years later. The granules are too large and breakdown slowly. Also these plants are on drip irrigation so the sulfur never comes in contact with water …unless it rains…in the desert? So what to do? Make sure the plant had lots of GOOD compost mixed into the soil at planting time. I would also put some sulfur with that planting soil. If you are not sure, replant it carefully this fall around the first week of October. Mulch the soil surface with organic or wood mulch. This is very important with camellia since it has a very shallow root system. Make sure the soil drains easily. Find a place that gives it early morning sun and not late morning sun, out of strong winds and not near a hot wall. Filtered light from a tree that allows scattered light on the ground with plenty of air movement (but not strong wind) would even be better but not total shade. Next spring after all danger of frost has passed (usually around the first to the middle of March) fertilize the plant with an azalea or rose fertilizer and add iron chelate as well. Expect that your camellia will not be picture perfect since it is not growing in an ideal climate and soil. Contact me next spring and let me know how it is doing and we can take it to the next step.

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Tomatoes are All Vines and Few Fruits

Good looking tomato transplant for home garden Q. With five tomato plants all I really get is beautiful, huge green vine, why don’t I get tomatoes? Being from East coast, I sure miss good tomatoes. A. Tomatoes are difficult to grow here. The reasons are due to our poor soil conditions and our unpredictable weather mostly. Most homeowners fail to get a good crop of tomatoes because they plant them too late, they don’t give them enough sunlight and they over fertilize them.           The best years for tomato production are when we have a long cool spring. Some of the worst times we have for tomato production are when the spring temperatures fluctuate wildly from cool to hot.           The best tomato transplants are about 6 inches tall, dark green and stocky. I don’t need to tell you that they should look healthy and free from what appears to be disease or insect problems. Look at the plant. It should be healthy or don’t plant it. Planting should occur in early March unless you have a very warm spot that can protect the plants from freezing temperatures and strong winds. Tomato staked and caged           Good soil preparation is important for tomato production. All that is necessary is good quality compost added to the soil and the soil give the chance to age and mature with this compost. Tomatoes should be fertilized with a high phosphorus fertilizer at the time of planting and not fertilized again until you see fruit. Fertilizing the plants regularly can cause them to produce lots of vine and little to no fruit.           It is important that the plants have enough room to grow and produce. When they are placed in cages or staked they can be planted closer together. When they are allowed to sprawl on the ground they must have more room and we usually see higher losses of the fruit.           If tomato plants are placed too close together they tend to shade themselves and produce very few fruit. They also tend to get more disease problems if planted too close together because of a lack of air movement. Collection of tomatoes grown at The Orchard; sweet 100, old ivory egg, black from tula, snow white, yellow pear           Like most vegetables that produce something we eat from a flower, they need a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of full sunlight for good production. With sunlight less than this they tend to get leggy and not flower very much. The best sunlight for them is sunlight in the mornings and early afternoons. The worst time for them to get sunlight is if it is only in the mid to late afternoons.           It is usually best to cage them or stake them. Don’t let them grow into each other or they will shade each other and reduce air movement through the vines. This will lead to disease problems. Don’t be afraid to thin out the canopy if it gets too dense.           If you have prepared your soil well and have enough sunlight there is no reason cherry or grape tomatoes should not produce for you. These are the easiest to grow here and are usually nearly always successful.           If you have problems with cherry or grape tomatoes, I would suggest that you pay particular attention to soil improvement, the amount of sunlight they are receiving and your planting time. I hope this helps.

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Almond Nut Drop and When to Spray an Insecticide

Leaffooted plant bug on pomegranate with babies (nymphs) Q. Several months ago you answered my question as to what was affecting the loss of all my almonds in my almond trees. You said I should apply the insecticide Sevin for pest control. But when do I apply the Sevin? My almonds are doing well now but they always do well now and then later I see something ozzing out of the nuts and a yellowish design on the inside. Then the nuts drop from the tree. So when do I spray with this insecticide? A. If I told you to apply Sevin insecticide I must have thought you had leaf footed plant bug in your almonds. My personal philosophy is to use pesticides as a last resort for insect control whenever possible. This would be the only reason I would recommend the use of a pesticide in almonds.             You would apply it when you see the insect present on the leaves. This insect has overwintered in yours or your neighbors landscape plants. I have seen them overwinter in our climate in these locations. When leaves emerge, this insect will begin feeding and laying eggs.    The first thing you will see are herds of the immature called nymphs on the undersides of leaves. You might see some adults as well but the babies are much more numerous. You should start to see them around late April or early May so start looking then. When you see them, begin spraying immediately according to the label mixing rate. Wear protective clothing.

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New Bee Group Forming in Las Vegas

Become A Founding Member of a New Bee Club! Anyone can join! All ages welcome! If you want to learn about our pollinator friends, or want to have a more abundant garden, or you want to become a beekeeper this is the club for you! When: Sat. Feb. 4th, 2012 11am-12noon Where: RISE Resource Center (Housed in the Advent Church) 3460 N. Rancho (Between Gowen & Cheyenne) Las Vegas,NV What to bring: Yourself and a friend, a sense of adventure and a “Bee Friendly” attitude Contact Rita at [email protected]

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Lemon Can Get By On Few Hours of Sun During Winter But Not Other Times of Year

Q. I have a Meyers lemon that is currently potted.  Now that I have lived through a winter here I have paid better attention to my sun. There are two spots along the back wall that get maybe 3-4 hours of direct sunlight at the shortest time of year.  Do you think it would survive being planted against a warm cinder block wall with only that much sun?  Gloria Caruso’s immature Eureka lemon in Las Vegas A. Meyer lemon will freeze back in our harshest microclimates in the Valley. On the other hand some of the more tender citrus, such as the limes, can handle our winters just fine if they are placed in the right microclimate. The number of hours of sunlight in the winter is probably not as important as the number of hours for the rest of the year. Certainly four hours of sunlight is far too short for nearly all fruit producing and flowering plants if this light is during the spring, summer and fall months. But if this plant receives eight or more hours during these non winter months, when temperatures are at least warm, it might do just fine. To protect from freezing temperatures in the winter it is best that it’s placed near a very warm winter wall with very little exposure to wind. Some people wrap or drape them with materials and other use heat sources such as Christmas tree lights along with draping.

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Come Help Me in Nevada’s First Commercial Harvesting of Olives for Olive Oil

Do want to be a part of southern Nevada’s historical re-emergence in small-scale, high value (really it is horticulture) agriculture? Contact me at [email protected] Roger Gehrning’s commercial vineyard in Amargosa, NV, the first in southern Nevada (2005) It is really kind of funny. I have noticed that as long as horticulture is not very important economically it stays as horticulture but as soon as it gains momentum it is then referred to as agriculture. Come join us for the first commercial harvest of olives in Nevada for making local olive oil. The olives will be harvested around December 19th at commercial vineyard in Nevada about 90 minutes from Las Vegas. We will be harvesting the olives by hand. This reduces damage to the fruits and makes a higher quality olive oil.  There are no processing facilities in Nevada for olive oil so the olives will be taken to Paso Robles, CA, for processing and bottling. Roger’s first commercial harvest of wine grapes using volunteers that I organized for this historic event (2009) Arrangements are underway for the processed and bottled oil to be sold in Nevada. The vineyard is owned and operated by Roger Gehring, a local Las Vegas resident. Roger also owns and operatest the first commercial vineyard in southern Nevada which is selling the grapes to Pahrump Valley Winery, Pahrump, Nevada. Me with Roger just after the first planting of wine grapes The wine grapes came from Duarte Nursery out of California, a nursery like Dave Wilson, which has been very kind in their donations of wine grapes for evaluation at the University Orchard in North Las Vegas.  His irrigation line, drip irrigation, is attached to a trellis wire about 24 inches off the ground (where Roger’s hands are) with the emitter coming directly off of his poly tubing lateral line.  The wine grapes are each staked and protected with a rabbit guard. Lots of jackrabbits and desert cottontails out there looking for food in the winter and they will take anything they will devour anything they can including immature pine trees Roger was using for establishing a windbreak.

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Roses in the Hot Desert Do Well But Different From Growing in New Jersey

Garden rose not doing well in our desert soils. They can do VERY well if you just follow some simple advice Q. This past spring I cleared a large “L” shaped area in my yard and planted 8 various rosebushes. They have sun from about 9 a.m. to about 5 p.m. They are watered in the evening and fed regularly. They are well planted with planting medium in large holes, and then mulched. All flowered during the spring and early summer. Now, however, they are very spindly looking. The leaves left on them are brown and the stems are turning brown. There are no bugs that I can see. I tugged on them and they are still firm in the ground. Have they died and should I replace them, or wait until spring and see what comes back? Should I cut them back, and if so, how much? I do not want to cut too much off. Leaf scorch on rose due to lack of soil improvement, no organic mulches used and not using an iron chelate as part of your fertilizer program A. Roses will grow best in an eastern exposure with protection from late afternoon sun. They can grow in full sun but they will be best grown in the exposure I mentioned. It is important to use a good compost mixed in the planting soil at the time of planting as well as a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus. Make sure your plants were planted the same depth as in the container or in the nursery if bare root. Make sure the bud union or dog leg on the stem is above ground and not buried. Make sure you stake the rose bush at the time of planting. The stake should not move if you do it correctly. I use a two foot piece of 3/8 inch rebar and tie the rose stem tightly to the rebar with green nursery tape and remove it after one growing season. Roses do well on drip irrigation. Use two emitters per plant or you can use drip pipe with inline emitters such as Netafim, Geoflow or equivalent product. If on drip it is important to note the amount of water the emitters deliver per hour and adjust your time on the emitters so that each plant gets about two to three gallons every time they are irrigated. Irrigations should be about two to possibly three times per week this time of year. Less often as it gets cooler but the length of time or hours should remain the same. Roses doing quite well in our hot desert climate and poor soils It is best to use a wood mulch rather than a rock mulch. All mulches must be pulled away from the rose stems at least 6 inches at the time of planting or the roses can get crown rot on the stem and die. Fertilize roses once in January with a rose fertilizer plus a soil applied iron chelate containing EDDHA. Follow label directions. You can fertilize again lightly after the heat of the summer has passed to help stimulate fall rose production. This should get you going. My guess is that they may have been planted too deep or the mulch touching the rose stems may have caused collar rot or irrigations may have been inadequate; either too often or not enough water. Just a hunch.

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