Xtremehorticulture

African Sumac Leaf Drop

Q. My African sumac tree strips itself into a skeleton about the time it gets hot. It drops its leaves. This summer I tried to water earlier and it didn’t get as awful looking. But it is a real mess when it drops leaves. Yellowing leaves of African sumac just before leaf drop A. African sumac is not “dry deciduous”, which is true of plants such as the Australian bottle tree. But African sumac will drop its leaves if it does not get enough water. Either increase the frequency and amount of water during the summer months or put down a layer of water conserving mulch so the soil stays wetter when it’s hot. This should help reduce leaf drop.African sumac is a “messy” tree in the landscape.

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Why Does My Sumac Have Yellowing and Dying Branches?

Q. I have a 20-year-old sumac tree that has developed yellow leaves in several areas. There has been no change in watering or the soil. What is causing this and how can we treat it. Branches dying in the bottom of the canopy of sumac. This may be due to too much shade. If not, it definitely contributed to the problem. A. If the yellowing or browning of the leaves is occurring in shaded areas it might be because there is not enough light reaching the leaves. If the canopy is dense and creates too much shade then leaves and stems in these heavily shaded areas will die. When the leaves are first dying they turn yellow and finally brown when they are dead.             Try removing some limbs on the tree to allow more light to penetrate inside the canopy. The problem is that African sumac responds very well to pruning with new growth and limb removal might have to be done regularly. Regrowth or watersprouts coming from a large African sumac limb after removal.             Do not remove too many limbs but allow the entry of filtered light inside the canopy.             An easy way to see if enough light is entering the canopy is to look at the ground. If the ground beneath the tree is a solid shadow, not enough light is entering the canopy. It should be pixelated. Some limbs should be removed until the light on the ground is “speckled”.             You can do this pruning any time of the year and do not have to wait for winter. I would focus on removing limbs around 1 inch in diameter and no larger unless the tree needs major pruning work done. Do major pruning only in the winter months.             African sumac does not have very many diseases so I have ruled out the possibility of disease. At least in our desert climate.. It has a few insect problems but nothing serious except aphids which leaves a sticky or shiny appearance on the leaf surface.             Aphids would be a problem in the spring and fall months. Heavy feeding by aphids could cause yellowing of leaves as well but they will be sticky. They can usually be removed with soap and water sprays.

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Help Save My Photinia from Dying

Q. Our red tip photinia appears to be dying. It is 8 years old and receives full sun. The leaves are turning brown and dry.  Is there a disease causing this or is it the very hot weather we have experienced this summer?  We fertilize and  apply iron regularly. Photinia with iron problems and soils with lack of organic matter A. The usual problem with Photinia occurs when their planted in desert landscaping with rock mulch covering the surface of the soil. They are planted with some soil amendment in the planting hole which disappears in two or three years. Sometime during the fourth and fifth year Photinia begins to develop yellow leaves. Photinia with the beginning of the decline These yellow leaves become a brighter yellow and begin to scorch around the edges. If this problem is not fixed, Photinia gets worse and we see die back of the stems and the canopy of the plant opens up and looks very sparse. The problem is the rock mulch for this plant. They do not like it. They like organic soils, not soils covered in rock. You have two options. Pull the rock mulch back and add compost to the soil around each of the Photinia about an inch deep and scratch it into the surface. Next cover the area with wood mulch, not rock mulch. Add iron fertilizer and a regular fertilizer to the plants. Water them in thoroughly with a hose. Cut the Photinia back close to the ground and let it regrow. Hopefully this will get them off to a good start this spring. Continual additions of compost every two years will help this plant stay healthy. The second option is to dig and remove these plants and start all over. Make sure the soil they are planted in as 50% compost mixed with it. Cover the soil with wood mulch and grow them out. Fertilize once a year in January with the commercial fertilizer for trees and shrubs and make sure you add an iron fertilizer at the same time.

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Why Are My Leaves Yellowing on Loquat?

Q. The leaves closest to the trunk of my two-year-old loquat have started turning yellow and falling off. New leaves have started to grow and they look fine. It was a 5 gal tree when I planted it. Last year the tree grew very well and produced a few loquats.This year the amount of fruit appears to have doubled but it has developed this leaf problem.  I did some research on loquat leaves turning yellow. They suggested overwatering might be the problem.  I give it about 24 gals of water once a week. I checked the soil with a moisture meter and it does not show being wet. A. I cannot give you any definite answers why your loquat has initiated leaf drop and yellowing of the leaves. I can tell you this; many leaves will yellow just before they drop from the tree so this type of yellowing just means that the leaves have died and will drop soon. The leaf color of loquat without chlorophyll is yellow. When the tree has initiated the dropping of its leaves, the leaves will lose their chlorophyll and hence their green color. The remaining color after the chlorophyll has disappeared will be yellow due to the presence of carotenoid pigments which are masked by the presence of green chlorophyll. Most likely this tree went through some sort of shock. This shock initiated leaf drop. The shock can be related to water, salts including salts from fertilizers, a light freeze, toxic chemicals or salts such as a high concentration of fertilizer applied to the leaves, etc. The water-related problem can be from too much or not enough. For instance, if it went through a very dry spell it will drop its leaves. If the soil is too wet for an extended period, it will drop its leaves. If fertilizer was applied to close to the trunk or the rate was too high for the plant, it will drop its leaves. There are two types of overwatering; one is related to the volume of water the plant is given while the other one relates to how frequently the water is applied. The overwatering I am talking about is applying water too often, not overwatering due to applying too much water in a single application. Once a week is not too often in my opinion unless you have a drainage problem. If you do not think the soil has been too wet or you have not fertilized the tree by either applying fertilizer to the soil or spraying leaves, then I would just wait and see what happens. If you applied fertilizer to the soil and you suspect the application was too strong, then flood the area with water and push the salts through the soils and away from the trunk and past the roots. That’s probably the best I can do without more information.

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Container Gardenia Leaves Yellowing and Falling

Q. I have a gardenia that is approximately four years old.  It blooms yearly and was doing great.  All of a sudden, literally overnight, the leaves turned yellow and are falling off. What has happened?  I water it daily, it is on the patio, outside where it has always been, in the shade. A. I think your gardenia developed rot. The symptoms of root rot our yellowing leaves and leaf drop. Frequently the plant dies a relatively slow death unless it’s in the heat, then it could be rapid.             Container plants need to be repotted regularly. When we grow in containers, the soil organic matter (this is the component of the soil that helps keeps soil loose and gives good air exchange to the roots) begins disappearing at a steady rate. In a couple of years it will be in critical short supply.             As this soil organic matter disappears, the open spaces in the soils that help with drainage and air exchange, diminishes. At the very beginning, a good container soil may contain as much as 50% of its volume as pore space.             In about three years this pore space may drop to only 20 or 15%. Basically the soil collapses, losing its pore space. This might be okay for a palm growing in a container but gardenias need soils with lots of pore spaces.             The soil becomes more dense, water drains through it more slowly, the soil stays wet longer, salts begin to accumulate and the roots begin to suffocate.             Soil diseases attack the weakened roots, roots begin to die, leaves begin to yellow and drop from plant.             Soils in containers need to be renewed every two to three years depending on the type of plant. Since gardenia is very susceptible to rots and grows much better in aerated soils, I would repot it no longer than every other year.             If the Gardenia is not too far along in leaf yellowing and leaf drop, you might be able to save it. Go to your favorite nursery or garden center and purchase a good quality container soil, enough to refill the container. When you are there, purchase a chemical fungicide called Subdue. Subdue fungicide does a good job in controlling several of the root rot disease organisms. Applying a fungicide alone will not solve the problem so you must repot the plant as well. The plant can be put back in the same container if it is sanitized on the inside or use a different clean container.             Remove the plant from the container during the cool temperatures of the morning and out of direct sunlight. Once the plant has been removed from the container, you must repot it quickly because the tiny feeder roots are continually dying after removal from the soil and drying out. Place the plant on a clean surface and gently wash the soil away from the plant roots.             Thoroughly clean the container and sanitize the inside of it with a 200 ppm solution of bleach and water. This would be about on tablespoon of bleach in one gallon of water. Rinse the container and wipe out the excess with a clean rag or towel. Let it air dry in the sun for a few minutes to let the chlorine dissipate. Or use a clean, fresh container.             Once you have removed as much soil from the roots as possible with water, you can repot the plant and use tap water to resettle the soil around the roots and remove air pockets. You will apply the subdue fungicide according to the label and water it into the soil of the repotted plant as a soil drench. Follow label directions. Fertilize the plant as you would normally and watch for new growth to come from leafless stems that are still alive. Once a year or once every two years remove about one third of the soil from the container and add new container soil.

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