Xtremehorticulture

Tomato Wilting During Midday Resolved at Planting Time

Q. My tomatoes are wilting.  I don’t think I am over watering or under watering them.  Besides they like water, don’t they? Fertilizers like this 6 – 20 – 20 make a good starter fertilizer because of its high phosphorus content (middle 20) and relatively low nitrogen content (6), A. Sometimes we see vegetables like tomatoes wilt during midday when it is hot and the plant roots cannot supply the water needed by its leaves. The plant recovers (stops wilting) during the cooler part of the day. About 40% of the water needed by plants comes from the top 25% of its root system. Plants wilt midday particularly if the size and depth of its roots are inadequate compared to its top. When first transplanting tomato plants into the ground, bury the roots about 3 to 4 inches below the surface of amended garden soil. This means digging the hole for the transplant 3 to 4 inches deeper than the container. Before planting, remove enough of the bottom leaves so these leaves are not buried in the soil. Ideally, wait 24 hours after removing the leaves before planting. It is best if fresh damage to the stem made by removing leaves is not below ground. Once the roots are placed this deep, amended soil fills the planting hole and is watered in. Amended soil should contain fresh compost and a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number).  Tomatoes are somewhat unique in the vegetable world because they will grow new roots from the portion of the stem underground. Horse bedding made from pine shavings makes a very good surface mulch for vegetables because it decomposes easily at the end of a growing season. This type of planting technique provides for a deeper and larger root system capable of supplying more water and nutrients to the plant. This can be particularly important with home gardeners who tend to “push” the growth of their tomato plants with heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizers. A word of caution. The soil used when planting deep must be amended so that it drains easily. Mulches applied to the soil surface help to reduce wilting. These surface mulches should easily decompose in soil used for growing vegetables.  Personally, I prefer horse bedding made from wood shavings to most other types of mulches. It decomposes easily in the soil at the end of a growing season and contains no weed seed. Other types of mulches include straw and shredded paper. I have shifted to horse bedding because it is usually cheaper and works better than straw. The one I’m using right now I’m getting from Viragrow in Las Vegas and runs about seven or eight dollars for a 4 cubic foot bag. I take handfuls of this and drop it on either side of my transplants so it covers the soil with about a 2 inch layer of horse bedding. The horse bedding is pine shavings and it decomposes very easily into garden soil at the end of a growing season which straw does not do as easily. It does not blow easily either. Hopefully you amended your soil to encourage deeper rooting. Garden soils should be amended each year with about a 1 to 2 inch layer of compost and double dug 6 to 8 inches deep. I would try the horse bedding and see if that helps.

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Importance of Surface Mulch for Vegetables

Surface mulches are under appreciated when growing shallow rooted vegetables during the heat in hot, desert or arid climates. Learn why. Using mulches when growing vegetables can be very important in hot, dry climates. Garden soils dry quickly and a surface layer of mulch helps keep the soil cooler and retains soil moisture much better than a loose, uncovered garden soil. This can be particularly beneficial to shallow rooted vegetables such as onion, garlic and other root crops.  Try to use light colored mulches like this bedding in the summer months to help reflect energy from the sun and keep it from heating up the soil. In the winter time when the air temperatures are much cooler, use dark colored mulches to help warm the soil and speed germination. Mulches help keep the soil cooler, retain moisture and suppress weed seed germination. Organic mulches which decompose help add structure to desert soils.  The problem has been what to use and cost. In the past I have used clean, bailed straw but it is expensive and doesn’t decompose rapidly when it is fresh. You can turn it under after harvest and it will decompose but it decomposes rather slowly. I tried using wood shavings like you can use for horse bedding. It works well as you can see from this picture of onions that were mulched versus onions that were not mulched in front of them. The horse bedding can be turned under easily after harvest and decomposes rapidly in moist soils. I was pretty impressed with it and it’s cheap. I got the horse bedding in 3 1/2 cubic foot bags from Viragrow in Las Vegas for $4. I am sure you can find it other places as well. I put down about half an inch of horse bedding on top of the soil in April before the heat and it made a big difference. If you are going to seed in the heat, I would highly recommend mulching the surface with something like this. You can also take the time to shred newspaper and it will do about the same thing. A big problem starting plants from seed in the garden during the heat is the soil drying too quickly and the see failing to germinate or germinating very slowly.

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