Xtremehorticulture

Difference Between Algerian and Dancy Mandarin Oranges

Q. I just bought a dwarf ‘Algerian’ and dwarf ‘Dancy’ mandarin orange. The Dancy is doing fine but the Algerian’s leaves are getting brown spots and falling. Is this a pest or disease? I don’t want it to spread! ‘Algerian’ mandarin (tangerine) with spots on its leaves. One person in Las Vegas growing citrus claims the secret to growing citrus here is soil drainage. A. Our humidity is so low that I doubt it’s a disease problem. The reason for the difference in leaf brown spots could be its landscape location, adequate soil prep at the time of planting, or the genetics of the plant. The spots are most likely cultural, management; something you have done, or should be doing. Since it happened after transplanting, I’m guessing it has something to do with how it was planted, where it was planted or how the tree was irrigated. Citrus Origin             Both trees grow in the subtropics to tropics so make sure the tree was planted with a mixture of compost and soil in a planting hole about three feet wide and about 12 to 18 inches deep. The additions of organics in the soil should darken it. Cover this planting with a layer of woodchips to keep the wood chips rotting, full of organics and moist between irrigations. Make sure it is staked after planting in case there are strong winds. Landscape Location             If planting in full sun on the West or South side of a building and it’s showing signs of sun or heat stress, consider shading the tree’s canopy for the first year of growth. Shading doesn’t require shade cloth. It can be done with anything that provides some late afternoon shade. It is probably a good idea to shade the plants from the afternoon sun the first year. Cultural             Do not water trees daily except immediately after planting. Daily irrigations are meant only to settle the soil around the roots, not to give the tree a daily “sip” of water. Make sure it’s staked during its first season of growth. During the hot summer months, water as infrequently as every other day if two days of water is applied all at once.             With a newly planted 5-gallon fruit tree, the tree should receive 4 to 6 gallons of water each time it’s watered. This water should be distributed through three , 2 gallon per hour emitters or four, 1 gallon per hour drip emitters under the canopy of the tree at about a foot from the trunk. As the tree gets larger over time, it needs more water applied over a lager area. Plan for it. Add additional drip emitters (not extra minutes) further from the trunk under the expanding canopy to give it this extra water. When the tree is fully grown at 20 to 25 feet, it should need about 30 gallons of water at each watering.             Plant these trees at least three or four feet from hot walls and they should handle the reflected high temperatures okay if the soil is amended and they are watered before it gets hot. Fertilize the trees right after harvest with a citrus fertilizer. Prepare the soil with compost and make sure it has good drainage. Dwarf Types             Dwarf versions are grafted onto different rootstocks than the standard sized trees. This will impart a slightly different flavor to the fruit. The dwarf version of mandarin orange should get about 12 feet tall and 12 feet wide if unpruned. ‘Dancy’ mandarin oranges (sometimes called tangerines) are the most popular mandarin orange fruit in the world (sometimes called “cuties” in the supermarket). ‘Algerian’ mandarin oranges are noted for their winter cold hardiness.

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Protect Citrus From Freezing Temperatures Soon

Q. When should I begin to protect plants like citrus from the freezing weather that’s coming? A. Some citrus will handle the cold weather better than others. Most of the citrus sold in this area are grafted to a cold hardy root system called a rootstock. Damage or even death results when the temperatures remain low enough to kill the top of the tree, its root system or both. This citrus died from winter freezing temperatures several years ago and the sour orange rootstock grew in its place producing oranges that were too sour to eat.             The more cold hardy and reliable citrus here are kumquat, grapefruit and Myers lemon. However, they will not survive the cold if the roots which they are grafted to are not cold tolerant as well. Most plants sold by nurseries in this area have citrus on cold hardy rootstock. This might not be the case if you buy citrus online. Spring freezing weather caused this fig to die back and push new growth from lateral buds along the stem.             None of the citrus are severely damaged if temperatures remain above 32° F. The least cold tolerant of the citrus, such as limes, is damaged when temperatures drop below freezing. When temperatures are low enough to damage the top of the tree but not the rootstock, suckers or water sprouts grow from the rootstock the following spring while the top of the tree may be dead or severely damaged. Freeze damage to bougainvillea             As we start getting close to 32F, start watching the local weather reports or track the low temperatures online. When you see projected temperatures reaching 32° F or lower, wrap the base of the tree with a blanket or cover this area with mulch. Smaller trees or trees pruned into an espalier may be entirely covered with a blanket.             Some people wrap tender trees with Christmas lights on a timer that comes on at night. This may work if temperatures are not extremely low and there is no wind. Blankets should be removed the next day when temperatures climb above freezing.

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Why Does My Orange Tree Have No Fruit?

Q. I have a dwarf orange tree planted a little over a year ago. There have been no oranges on the tree. I have fertilized and I think I’ve been watering it correctly. The tree appears to be healthy just no fruit. Any suggestions? A. Dwarf orange is not much help to me. The subject of oranges is huge. I need to know what type of orange it is, whether it has produced flowers or not and no fruit, or no flowers and no fruit. Varieties vary from early ripening – about 8 months from bloom – to late – up to 16 months from bloom. There are three main groups: The normal fruited, without navels and with light orange colored flesh; the navel oranges, with a distinct navel development at the end; and blood oranges, with red flesh and juice. There are about 73 varieties but US production focuses on Valencia, Washington Navel, Hamlin, Parson Brown, Pineapple and Temple. For home gardening there are many more than these six available from nurseries. Remember, in southern Nevada growing citrus is marginal. Our winters or just too cold. That is the major limiting factor. The usual reason for not producing fruit are winter freezes. Citrus should be planted in protected areas out of winter wind. They should be protected in the wintertime from cold. There is an excellent publication from Arizona on protecting citrus from cold weather. Protecting citrus from winter cold Arizona

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No Fruit on Dwarf Orange

Q. I have a dwarf orange tree planted a little over a year ago. There have been no oranges on the tree. I have fertilized and I think I’ve been watering it correctly. The tree appears to be healthy, just no fruit. Any suggestions? A. Dwarf orange is not much help to me. The subject of oranges is huge. I need to know what type of orange it is, whether it has produced flowers or not or if the flowers formed but failed to produce fruit. Varieties vary from early ripening – about 8 months from bloom – to late – up to 16 months from bloom. There are three main groups: The normal fruited, without navels and with light orange colored flesh; the navel oranges, with a distinct navel development at the end; and blood oranges, with red flesh and juice. There are about 73 varieties but US production focuses on Valencia, Washington Navel, Hamlin, Parson Brown, Pineapple and Temple.  For home gardening there are many more than these six available from nurseries. Here is a publication from Arizona on citrus varieties. extension.arizona.edu/pubs/az1001.pdf

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Orange Tree Flowering Now and Not December

Q. We have an orange tree that did not produce any flowers this last December.  Over the last week in March the tree has started covering itself with buds all over. We inherited the tree when we bought the house last summer so I don’t know much about the tree.  Just that its only a couple of years old and produced a couple delicious oranges in December of 2012. I’d love to have some oranges, but is fruit coming this time of year bad for the tree somehow?  A. No, you are okay with the flowers. They should sail through the summer with no problem. They probably got hit with a couple of freezed we had in December and January. My biggest worry is a late freeze which did not happen so you should be good to go. The best fruit will have some shade covering so it does not get sunburned. If it is in a container try to double pot it or somehow keep the sun off of the outside of the container. Keep it well watered as you would any other fruit tree or nondesert landscape tree. They do better with some surface wood mulch. Depending on the orange you should have ripe fruit some time late fall or mid winter. Hope this helps. You may enjoy reading this publication from Arizona on citrus.   Arizona citrus publication

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Yes, Remove Citrus Suckers

Q. The low temps this winter affected my citrus trees.  Most of my new growth is on the suckers.  Should I remove them?  Or just let the tree be.   A. If you look at the trunk of the tree you should see a bend in the trunk or “dogleg” where the top was budded or grafted on to the rootstock. I doubt if it is on its own roots which would mean you would see no bend or dogleg. Graft or bud union creates a “dogleg” on the trunk. Anything coming from or below this bend should be removed and kept off. Whenever you see any type of growth at all from these spots it should be removed. If you let this growth develop it will rob growth from the part of the tree you want to keep and eventually dwarf or kill the good part of the tree. Next you want to allow the lowest branches to develop from the trunk at a height you want these branches to remain. The distance these lowest branches are now will be the height they will be in ten years from now.  If these are too low then move up the trunk to a place where you want the lowest limbs to develop. Remove any of these unwanted lower limbs completely from the trunk by cutting them as close to the trunk as possible. You can do this now if you want or you can wait until next January or February if there is fruit on them. I am not sure which citrus you have but if it is lemon they should probably be harvested in December.  Birdseye view of limbs radiating from the trunk of a young fruit tree to provide balance. Try to find limbs to keep which are coming from the trunk going in different directions. Hopefully you will find one limb going north, one south, one east and one west (I think you get what I mean by going in different directions as this will give the tree “balance” and reduce shading of itself). On the limbs coming from the trunk, remove shoots going straight up or straight down. This leaves shoots that spread out in a fan (horizontally or laterally) but remove shoots that are growing up or down. This allows for better light penetration inside the tree and helps distribute fruit production throughout the canopy rather than just on the perimeter. I hope this helps.

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Branches With Sharp Thorns Coming From Base of Orange Tree

Q. This year I noticed branches growing from the base of my orange tree and the branches have sharp thorns on them. Should they be pruned from the tree? A. The branches growing from the base of your tree probably are shoots arising from the rootstock; common name, “suckers”. Let’s use your orange tree as an example but it could be other citrus as well such as limes, grapefruit, lemon, etc.             Most citrus valued for their fruit are grafted to another citrus valued for its roots. This citrus valued for its roots is called the rootstock. The citrus plants used for rootstocks are selected for various characteristics but not for the quality of the fruit they produce. In fact fruit from rootstocks is nearly always pretty terrible.             The rootstock may sometimes be more vigorous than the orange tree itself. The rootstock can send up shoots that, if not removed, may dwarf and overtake the orange part of the tree. Simply remove these undesirable suckers any time they appear and as close to the trunk as possible.             They may sucker from the roots as well. Remove these too by cutting the sucker and the root with a sharp shovel and pull them from the soil. This eliminates the possibility that the rootstock will overtake the orange tree. Do not leave any stubs. These will easily regrow.             Frequently in our climate tender citrus like some oranges, limes and others are killed during winter freezes. But because the rootstock part of the tree may be more cold tolerant it survives, then suckers and takes over.             In a couple of years the rootstock is the only plant left and the owner wonders why the fruit is terrible and not anything like the citrus fruit he was expecting.

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