Xtremehorticulture

‘Desert Museum’ Palo Verde Damaged by Wind

Q. I have a Desert Museum Palo Verde that was damaged during a windstorm. One of the branches blew off and damaged the trunk. It is an eyesore. Should I replace it? Palo verde is a rather soft tree particularly if you are in a hurry and want to grow it fast. Watering it like a mesic tree will speed its growth but could increase its potential for damage during strong winds. A. I would let the tree heal on its own but help it along its way. Healing takes two to three years if the tree is kept in good health. To do that, clean up the wound and apply management practices that encourage it to heal.  Sealing paints are a gimmick and don’t help the tree heal. In fact it can do just the opposite and prevent rapid healing. Don’t use any paint or “tree healer” as this was proven ineffective in past research and could actually slow the healing process. If you do paint the damaged area, use latex water-based paint. If there are any “splinters” resulting from the damage, remove them with a sanitized knife. Make the damage, and healthy areas surrounding it, as smooth as possible so the healing is faster and pleasant to look at. With that same knife remove the outer bark so that the edge is smooth and clean, and the damaged area is shaped like a vertical football. The damaged area will “compartmentalize” and the tree will “roll” over the area as it heals over the next couple of years. When the tree starts to grow this spring, make sure it gets adequate amounts of water and fertilizer. Good health practices help the tree to heal faster. To reattach or repair a limb split, or otherwise damaged area from a tree during a windstorm, is usually a lost cause. If done successfully the limb must be reattached, or repaired, within minutes or even seconds after it is severed or broken. Time is very important so that the damaged area doesn’t “dry out” before it is repaired.

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How Far to Cut Back Ash Without Killing Them?

 Example of a thinning cut made to peach. The cut is made directly above a side branch going in a preferred direction or a smaller one that will help to reduce the size of the plant. Q. We have two fantex ash trees, 15 years old. They are spreading out too far. How far can we cut them back without killing them? A. The problem with ash is that it does not have much ability to come back from cut limbs if you cut back too far. You can begin structuring the tree if you do it fairly early and stay on top of it but if you let it go too long and then cut it back you may have some problems.               You can cut it back to side branches that are growing in a desirable direction but you cannot prune it back by what we call heading cuts (stubbing it back) and hoping these dead end cuts will resprout. You can cut back into about second or maybe three year old wood (there are still side buds remaining that can grow) but if you cut into a limb with no buds present it will probably die back to a major limb.             So cut back to a branch at a crotch going in the direction you want it to grow. When limbs are growing the wrong direction, eliminate them back to a crotch or another limb. Do not leave any stubs (dead end cuts). The Modesto ash on the right was “topped” and because of the nature of ash it never came out of it but had to be removed. The one on the left was cut back early enough so that it could resprout from young wood. Consequently the one on the left developed swellings just under the cuts that are full of tissue that can generate new growth. The one on the right could not.             I hope this makes sense. I attached a picture of a thinning cut made removing a larger limb going up…to a smaller limb going out and toward the camera. The direction of growth of the limb was changed without leaving a stub.

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