Xtremehorticulture

What You Should Know About Grubs

My question and answer blog, Xtremehorticulture of the Desert, receives over 30,000 visits each month. Much to my surprise, one of the most popular topics among my readership is grubs. Readers find them feeding on the roots of ornamentals, vegetables, fruit trees, grasses and in their compost piles. These are common grubs, specifically white grubs. They can be a common past feeding on the small, immature roots of many plants including lawn grasses, vegetables, flowers, perennial flowers and even shrubs. White grubs are the immature forms of beetles. The category or order of beetles, Coleoptera, is by far the largest group of insects in the world. The common names for adult forms of the white grub, which occupy a much smaller subset of beetles, are recognizable to many; scarab beetles, June or May beetles, dung beetles or the word “beetle” tagged on to some other descriptive moniker such as “Japanese” beetle. This is the adult of a white grub called a scarab beetle.This particular beetle is the green metallic June beetle but others more commonly can be brown. These adults, even though they are called June beetles don’t have to appear in June but usually in the late spring months. The adults mate and deposit their eggs near the soil surface. If you talk to a turfgrass managers or golf course superintendents they automatically think of C-shaped, upside down white grubs found feeding on turfgrass roots. In sod forming grasses that produce rhizomes and stolons, damaged turfgrass can be rolled back like a carpet. In bunch grasses like tall fescue, damaged grass is easily pulled from the soil in clumps. The chemical industry and educators have done a good job of directing professionals and homeowners to pesticides intended to control white grubs in turfgrass. You could walk into any garden retail outlet and see bottles or packages of pesticides with a large picture of a white grub or the words “Controls White Grubs” printed on the label. White grubs can be found in compost piles, soil amended with compost or manure and along the roots of plants where they feed when they are young. Lawns are disappearing in many parts of the country with water restrictions. Damage from white grubs feeding in places other than lawns is more noticeable than it used to be and not as recognizable. The number one place, according to readers of my blog, for finding white grubs are in compost piles or where compost has been applied to the landscape. Unlike plant names, where two or three plants can share the same common name, entomologists back in 1903 agreed upon a list of common names for insects that is updated on a regular basis. This makes discussing white grubs a lot easier for us non-entomologists. I first learned about white grubs studying turfgrass in college. In turfgrass they can cause severe damage feeding on the roots of the grasses just an inch or so below the surface. Lawns that grow together like a carpet, Kentucky bluegrass for instance, can be rolled back like a carpet where these insects have chewed off the roots. Since grubs are immature forms of insects and not the adult insect itself, the word “white grub” doesn’t communicate very well until we talk about what grubs are feeding on. Grubs feeding on the roots of grass plants usually narrow down the insect possibilities to three or four different kinds. We can narrow it down further if we know the plant damage is located in Florida, California or New York. Different geographical regions have different types of “white grub” problems. Knowing all this is important but approaches to controlling this pest needs to be focused their stage of development. This means that the timing for applications of control products is extremely important.             Grubs feeding on plant roots are difficult to control if the control measure isn’t timed right. These immature forms are voracious feeders when young and when they are most susceptible, but as they get older and begin the transition to winged adult, control becomes increasingly more difficult. As this transition occurs, the major pathway for controlling this insect, its voracious appetite, slows and eventually closes. When they are nearing maturity, they stop feeding in preparation for pupation or turning into adults with wings, the June beetles.Laying on their backs with their feet upward so there mouthpart can feet on the grassroots which are growing down.From University of California – Riverside The life cycle of these winged insects is like many others that lay eggs; the winged adult emerges from the soil, locates a mate, after mating she flies off and lays her eggs in a location with plenty of food and protection for her young. In the case of white grubs, she flies to the nearest food supply such as tender roots, rotting vegetation, a dung heap or an immature compost pile. Predators of the eggs and young of white grubs are numerous. In a Kentucky study, ants were the number one predator of white grubs feeding in turfgrass followed by spiders and other types of beetles. Residuals from soil applications of (active ingredients) carbaryl, cyfluthrin and isazofos to control other turfgrass pests significantly reduced these predator populations for up to 10 weeks, resulting in increased feeding damage because of a higher population of grubs. Eggs that survive the initial onslaught from predators hatch in about two weeks and begin voraciously feeding when soil temperatures reach about 60° F. They quickly gain most of their eventual size and weight as soil temperatures steadily increase. As white grubs approach the size they need for pupation to adult, they progressively decrease and eventually stop feeding. Since feeding is the primary pathway used for controlling them, it is very important to focus control efforts during their early stages of growth and heavy feeding. Focusing control efforts too early or too late in their life cycle decreases or mitigates their effectiveness. Determining when to apply control measures to white grubs through scouting

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Sunburn on Plants a Major Desert Problem

Q. I have three 3-tier privets in the front of my house. One of them, showing in the two attached pictures, seems to have trouble at the top tier, which grew yellowish and small leafs, while the bottom two tiers grow normally. The top part of the trunk close to the sickly tier shows darker color.  Nursery people told me that the troubled shrub got too much sun and needs more water. But I have watered the shrubs (all three of them next to each other) with the same amount and same frequency. To tell me just the top tier of one shrub needs more water does not make much sense to me, right? My question is: why only the top tier turn sickly yellow while others are growing normally? and what can I do to protect it from dying?  Thanks. A. Thank you for the pictures. I agree with you. I do not believe it is water….directly, or can be improved by giving it more water. The problems is located on the branches or foliage showing the damage. We can eliminate an irrigation problem for exactly the reason you said and the foliage on the same side but below the damaged area is in much better condition. If the entire plant on that side had shown that kind of damage then I might be inclined to include a plugged emitter or not enough water to be a possible source of the problem.                Whenever we see damage to a plant and it is localized like yours is then the usual problem is located on the branches or stems supporting the problem area OR on the foliage itself. Now, what I know because of my experience in the desert and you don’t know is that there are very few insect or disease problems on Ligustrum or privet. Most of the problems are sun related because it is not a true desert plant that can thrive in our environment easily. It does require a bit of pampering.                My guess is that the stems supported the leaves or foliage has been damaged…mechanically. Mechanically just means that some outside force was at work to create the damage as opposed to a disease. Insects, such as borers, can also create mechanical damage by chewing or gnawing but I don’t think this is from insects since this plant does not have a history of that kind of problem here. That is my head knowledge telling me by deduction, not anything I can see.                Here is a nice website that talks about privet problems but we currently don’t have very many of the problems listed as they do in California.  http://homeguides.sfgate.com/privet-hedge-problems-43811.html             The author does say this,  Twig Kill Repeated shearing keeps privets neat and compact, but also forces branching until the surface of the shrub is a thick mass of branches and twigs. Sudden cold snaps in winter, dry windy weather, or drought might kill small or weak branches. If the twigs at the end of a few branches die back, the branches themselves may be lost and the resulting open spot will have to fill in with growth from other branches. Twig kill might necessitate careful hand trimming rather than shearing to ensure that new branching expands into the void. We do have one though that they don’t list…sunburn.             The side damaged is toward the sun. I can’t see all of the plant but it does appear the sides away from the sun are healthier. If some over-aggressive shearing was done and opened up the top tier too much, it could open the inside branches to sunburn from our intense sunlight. That happens to a number of plants here whereas it milder climates it does not. I have seen that happen here to Podocarpus when an over aggressive gardener got carried away and pruned too much out. I will post that on my blog next week. One way to tell is to bend some of the branches on the top tier to find out if they are supple or stiff from sun damage. They might even snap if they have been damaged.  Sunburn on Podocarpus after pruning and subsequent dieback.             What to do? The damaged area could grow back but it will be slowly. You would live with this damage until you see some new growth “sprouts” coming from the inside branches. Many plants respond this way to damage, but not all. In the case of privet, the growth is slow, not rapid. Once this growth appears you can start to prune back the damaged stems to allow for this new growth to occur. This might take a couple of seasons.             Another thing I would recommend if you don’t have it is to use several inches of wood mulch at the base of these plants. They definitely do NOT like rock mulch if that is what you have. Another less likely possibility is damage from mites to the foliage but I think this is less likely. I would say the higher probability is sunburn damage to the stems. From Reader – Thank for prompt and informative reply.  Your suggestion about aggressive pruning and western sun burn might be part of the reason which I will try to correct in the future.  I did add 3-4″ organic mulch at the base of the plant and I’ll do more in early spring when I begin fertilizing plants around my house.  In  the spring , I added iron chalets with regular shrub fertilizer, and mix some manure in the mulch. It seemed to work pretty well.  Thank you again,

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