Xtremehorticulture

If Fruit Trees are Planted Correctly They Can Take the Heat

 Dig the hole three times WIDER than needed. Plant in a wet hole. Amend or mix that soil or bring in different soil. The planting hole is dug three times wider than you need it. Amend or mix the soil with about 20 to 30% of a very good compost. Mix in a good compost when planting. Stake all fruit trees. Make sure the trunk cant move when you are finished. Stake fruit trees, all of them, so the trunk can’t move. Protect the fruit trees from rabbits with chicken wire for the first three to four years if you live near a golf course or an open desert. Put at least two inches of mulch (wood chips that rot) on top of the soil. Three inches is better. Keep it 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk until the tree is six years old. These are wood chips from whole entire trees, not bags of wood bark. Water every other day or every third day, wide and deep.

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Vegetable Seed Use and Storage

Q. I have some old vegetable seed that I planted. I was told I wasted my money and time. Do you think I did? Vegetable seed storage for longevity depends on which seed or cuttings depending on the vegetables but maintaining an appropriate temperature and low humidity are important. A. It depends on the seed, how it was stored and how old it was. Usually, large seed doesn’t store as long as smaller seed; maybe two or three years. Small seed might store for 5 or 6 years or longer.             The best temperature and humidity to store seed totals less than 100. That is directly from the National Seed Storage Lab in Ft. Collins, Co. For instance, if the temperature that they were stored totaled about 70F, then the humidity should be less than 30%. If the humidity was 70%, then the temperature needs to average around 30F. Of course the best temperature and humidity for seed storage is close to freezing for temperate seed. Having them both total less than 100 is suitable for a couple of years.             When using old seed, plant two and expect one to live is a good motto.             When storing seed, I try to keep the temperature and humidity of vegetable seed as low as possible. I stay away from buying seed exposed to heat or direct sunlight. I use a desiccant (corn starch works okay), put them in a glass jar with a screw lid, and put them in the fridge. They will keep this way for several to many years depending on the oil content of the seed. Small seed (e.g., tomato, eggplant, beet, carrot) usually has less oil in it than larger seed (e.g., beans, corn).

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Planting During our Desert Heat

Leaf scorch can be a reminder that the plant might be in a hot location, soil not amended properly or it was not surrounded by wood chips when it should be.  Avoid planting anything during our desert heat. All planting should stop if it’s windy or temperatures are above 100°F. Sometimes you must plant but think about other times. They will be better and you will have more success. Planting during cooler weather is better for the plant. Planting during cooler weather and you will have more success. If you must plant during the heat: Plant in areas of the landscape appropriate for the plants. Some plants tolerate desert heat better than others. No plants like heat. They prefer growing at temperatures they like (45F to 85F depending on the plant). Dig planting holes and amend the soil a day ahead. Fill the planting hole with water when you’re finished. Plant only during early morning hours. Avoid planting on windy days. Check your phone weather app. Have water ready and available. Would you like some coffee you like some coffee no? Always plant in a “wet hole”, never a “dry hole”. Plant as soon as you get home. Never wait for tomorrow. Keep plants roots wet. Feeder roots in without moisture die within 15 seconds. How many roots die determines the degree of “transplant shock”. Transplant shock isn’t “normal”.

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‘Red Push’ Chinese Pistache Damage

Q. I have two ‘Red Push’ Chinese pistache trees planted about three years ago and doing well. Recently one was shocked and I’m not sure what happened. This occurred almost overnight. I gave it a few extra gallons and added two drippers to each plant. I don’t use any Round up or anything like that. Can it be saved?  ‘Red Push’ Chinese pistache are damaged with high winds A. It will take a while, but the tree should be fine. The tree will use its stored energy to put on new leaves and replace the dead ones. In the future it’s important to note the weather occurring during that time because we did have some strong winds a few times this summer.  Strong Winds are Damaging and Trees Use More Water Strong winds are particularly damaging in the spring when leaves are new and tender. Strong winds equals increased water lost by plants. Sudden death of leaves right after strong winds signals a need for water. But that water application is usually just once.  However, frequent watering coupled with poor drainage might also cause this problem. My guess is that leaf death was coupled with the wind. So be careful with applying water to landscapes. It can be the “giver of life” in the desert, but it also can be the “giver of death”.  Established Trees Have Stored Food A three-year-old tree like ‘Red Push’ has stored “food” in its branches that it relies on when pushing new leaves. It takes a bit longer for the tree to respond during the spring and early summer months because it has “used up” all its “spring” buds putting on new growth. It’s like a double whammy. It may take the tree a bit longer to produce new buds and new growth.  Chinese Pistache is Mesic not Xeric Tree response to leaf death occurring in late summer and fall is much more rapid since the buds are already formed and new growth happens much faster. Remember that any of the Chinese pistache trees are mesic in their water use; they can tolerate desert soils but need a little bit of irrigation help. They grow best when surrounded by other plants that require water. As with most mesic trees, they can tolerate lawns when there is decent drainage.

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Buying and Planting Citrus in the Las Vegas Area

 Buying and planting citrus, subtropical and tropical trees, in the Eastern Mojave Desert can be a challenge. First is finding a good location then amending the soil, staking the tree and watering it. Learn how it is best done in this episode of Desert Horticulture.  Citrus selection can be tricky in the Las Vegas area due to our winter cold temperatures. Citrus with a think rind can indicate a potassium deficiency. Always use a citrus fertilizer once a year in the spring.

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Why ‘Improved Meyer’ Lemon instead of ‘Eureka’ Lemon in St. George Utah

Q. I am writing regarding the purchase and planting of a ‘Eureka’ lemon tree. Of main concern to me is where to plant the tree, where to purchase the tree, what sized tree should I purchase, how often should it be watered and fertilized, and how big should I make the planting hole? Meyer lemon tree growing in a container in Las Vegas. A. a ‘Eureka’ lemon is not a preferred lemon for our area due to its low tolerance of our colder winter temperatures. Meyer lemon begins its cold winter damage at about 25F or a bit less, but ‘Eureka’ lemon starts getting damage at freezing (32F). That’s a 7°F difference in cold tolerance not even considering wind damage! ‘Meyer Lemon’ is not a true lemon like ‘Eureka’, but the flavor is very close. Eureka lemon in Las Vegas             If freezing weather threatens, wheel the tree and container into the garage until the freezing temperature is over then wheel it back out. You can try covering it with a frost blanket. This gives the tree about 5°F of added protection (to about 27°F depending on the wind). You can try Christmas tree lights that radiate heat (it may help a few degrees) but again it depends on the wind. Large unknown lemon grown in Lake Havasu, AZ.             The rest of the information you asked about is the same regardless of the variety. Depending on which variety you want, you may have to purchase it from an online nursery. Select an average sized tree, about 5 gallons in size, and plant it in the warmest microclimate you can find surrounding your house (usually it’s on the south or west side). Amend the soil with compost at planting time and dig the planting hole three times the width of the roots. Plant it 8 to 5 feet from a warm wall and protect it from the wind. Stake it for at least one year if it is a 5-gallon size or larger. Plant wet. Cover the soil with woodchips when finished. Protect it from rabbits.

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Wet the Soil First Before Digging the Planting Hole

Q. I’m finally having my empty backyard landscaped. It’s the typical subdivision super hard “soil”. Should it be amended somehow before the new plants are added? More than just in the hole where the plant goes, I mean. Wet the soil first a few days before digging. Moist soil helps to make it softer. Mix compost with the soil taken from the hole by about 25 to 33%. A. Some of the landscape soils are hard, hard, hard! Wet the area to be planted with an hour of sprinkler water from a hose and sprinkler a few days before digging. This water will help make it softer to dig. I would recommend amending the soil in the planting hole with compost or another amendment a few days after it is wetted. Amend it between 25 to 33% with compost (one shovelful of compost to 3 or 4 shovelfuls of soil). The hole for the plant should be dug and amended to a width three times the size of the diameter of the container or roots. Then check it for drainage. The hole should drain water overnight. Wet amended soil should be at least chocolate brown in color. Holes located where fruit trees are to be grown are wetted and amended with compost by about 25 to 33%.             The hole does not have to be dug deeper than the container but should be dug three times the root width of the plants. Amend that soil taken from the hole. The only time the soil needs to be dug deeper than the container is when the soil is very bad at draining water. If a planting hole is filled with water and it drains this water overnight, then the drainage is good enough; three times the width of the roots/container is enough soil preparation. Younger trees are planted in wet, amended soil, covered in woodchips and staked to prevent them from blowing over in strong winds.             If the water does not drain from the hole overnight, you should plant on top of an embankment or a small hill. If you are planting a medium sized shrub (6 to 10 feet tall) in this spot, then the soil in the amended mound or hill should be 12 inches tall and about three or four feet wide. If the tree or shrub is 20 feet tall then the soil mound should be 18 inches high. Cover this soil with a mulch of some sort, either woodchips or rock depending on the type of plant.

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When to Plant Pomegranate

Q. We are thinking of planting a pomegranate bush in our backyard. I suppose right now in the middle of summer is not a good time to plant. Would late September or early October be okay, or do we have to wait until Spring? Any other helpful hints on planting this type of bush? Pomegranates grow well in hot, dry climates that have winter temperatures that don’t fall below about 20° F (-7 C). Pomegranate can develop several disease problems that affect the quality of the fruit in humid climates. You start to see some winter damage to pomegranates starting around 20° F. Some varieties can handle colder temperatures in the winter than others. A. Summer months, when it’s hot, is not the best time for planting anything except palm trees and Bermuda grass. Pomegranates will struggle after planting during the summer months. To attempt summer planting, you better have a very green thumb and lots of experience gardening in the desert. Pomegranate flowers form on “current season wood”. This means that the flowers form on the wood formed that year. This is why pomegranate doesn’t start flowering until a little bit later in the season than peach or apricot trees. And pomegranates continue to flower through most of the summer.             Wait until Fall, about mid Sept to mid Oct in southern Nevada. You will have more success during the Fall months and the plant will be happier. A disadvantage is that the selection of local plants is not as large as in the spring months. Probably the two most popular pomegranate varieties are the traditional Wonderful or the sweeter and soft seeded Utah Sweet variety. If you don’t see what you want, wait until spring. The Ambrosia variety of pomegranate is one of the earliest varieties with it fully ripe and ready to pick in about September. Ambrosio generally forms fruit larger than this one. The fruit inside, called arils, is about the same color as the outer skin or rind in Ambrosia. That might not be true in many varieties.             If you must plant now, do it early in the morning and have the hole already dug and the soil used for planting amended with compost. Fill the hole with water the night before and let it drain overnight. Maintain the old wood of pomegranate and the percentage of larger fruit will be higher. Some of the more popular varieties include Wonderful, Sweet, Eversweet, Grenada and Sharp’s Velvet. A variety recently released in the United States called Parfianka is getting a lot of attention lately.             When planting, soak the container in freshwater for about 30 minutes. Take it out of its container and immediately place it in the hole and start filling the hole with water. Add the amended soil to this slurry and let it flow around the plant roots.  Stake the plant to keep the roots from moving and water the entire planting hole thoroughly so it’s muddy. Water it again, just like that, the next day. Set the irrigation controller so that it waters not more often than every other day during the heat. 

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Early Summer: Too Late to Plant?

Q. I was going to plant some Cypress trees a month ago but was called away on a family matter. Is it too late to plant cypress trees and a few fruit trees this time of year or should i hold off till next year? A. Now is not the best time to plant in our hot desert climate. It should be done in early spring or even better, mid fall when temperatures are beginning to cool off.             It should be okay to plant now but make sure to dig the hole, and amend the soil going into it, before planting. Water the hole thoroughly and transfer the plant into the hole as quickly as possible to minimize transplant shock. As you are adding amended soil back into the hole, make sure everything in the hole is wet.             Put a basin around the plant and fill it for three consecutive days before turning it over to the irrigation system. Little known fact: The most important roots during planting, feeder roots, are small and delicate and can die within 10 to 15 seconds when exposed to the outside air. The more that die, the more “shock” the plant has and recover time is longer.

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When to Plant Tomatoes

Q. When can I put tomato plants outside in the garden? We all want these, right?Putting tomato plants into the garden at the right time is critical in our hot, desert climate. They don’t set fruit when temperatures get above 95° F. They grow poorly at temperatures in the 60s. That “sweet spot” for tomato fruit set can disappear quickly in the hot desert climates, particularly after prolonged cool wet springs. A. This has been a crazy Spring! Tomato plants grow best when soils are warm and air temperatures are above 60° F and below 90°. Traditionally, our last freeze is after mid-March. Most gardeners like to get their tomato plants out earlier than this, any time after mid-February, if its warm enough. Tomato stem rot occurs on tomato plants frequently when soil temperatures are cold and tomatoes are put outside too early.             Start watching weather projections, up to a few weeks ahead, around mid-February. As soon as weather projections predict warm weather for a 2 to 3 week period after mid-February, put transplants outside and help them to adjust from the protected greenhouse to the harsher garden environment.              Put transplants in a location protected from strong wind and intense afternoon sunlight. They should get eight hours of sun every day to remain vigorous. Never plant them in the same spot in the garden year after year. Plant them in a different part of the garden each year to reduce disease problems. This tomato plant stem was buried in the garden soil. New roots were supposed to grow from the buried stem. Instead, the tomatoes them died along with the plant. The transplant was put in the garden when soils were still cold and the soil did not drain water easily. Instead, the tomato transplant developed stem rot.             Prepare the garden soil for planting while transplants acclimate. Remember, tomatoes like warm soils so garden preparation should focus on “fluffing” the soil so that it warms more quickly. Add compost to it and double dig, spade or till the soil to open it and let warm air and sunlight raise its temperature. Hot caps and wall-o-waters are sometimes used to protect tender new transplants when air temperatures are still cold and potentially freezing. Transplants are protected from freezing temperatures but unfortunately the soil temperatures are still cold. These cold soil temperatures don’t permit transplants to grow as fast as they might.             Heavy, wet soils warm slowly when temperatures are rising. Alternatively, cover these spots with clear plastic, if you have to, to trap heat and warm it more quickly. Pin the edges of the clear plastic to the soil to keep the heat trapped under it. A potentially better technique is to warm the soil first with clear plastic and plant tomato seed directly into trenches in the warmed soil. This can be done in the middle of winter. This was demonstrated at the University Orchard in North Las Vegas.             When weather projections are positive, plant tomatoes transplants into warm soil along with a pre-plant fertilizer to improve rooting. If a generous application of compost was used during garden preparation, then add only a phosphorus fertilizer to the soil surrounding the transplant. This phosphorus fertilizer could be a mineral type such as triple super phosphate or a natural phosphorus source like bone meal.

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