Xtremehorticulture

Plant Roots Prefer Water and Nutrients Applied to the Same Place

Q. I have read that plants grow better with water delivered to their roots, at the same spot, over and over again. Is this true? Eggplant growing with drip irrigation in a raised bed without sidewalls. A. Yes, it’s true but you probably won’t notice the difference. Why? Unless you compare plants growing with water applied to the same spot, over and over, with plants watered at different places you wont see much difference.              Plant roots get used to the amount of water and air when water is delivered to the same spots and depth, over and over. That is one reason why drip irrigation, along with the proper spacing of emitters, is so successful as long as the plant “wets its roots” to the appropriate depth each time. Watering with a hose will not as consistent.             Water should wet the roots to the same depth every time. Small shrubs need to wet their roots to a depth of 12 to 18 inches, medium sized trees and shrubs 18 to 24 inches deep, and tall trees or shrubs should have wetted roots to a depth of 36 inches deep. This water should be applied to at least half the area under the plant’s canopy. Obviously then large plants need more water applied to them, and this water applied to a larger area, than the smaller plants.

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Plants Grow Toward Light

Q. I pulled out my old, bent crepe myrtle and bought a new one from a grower. It’s still small, but I noticed the “trunk” is already curving. Is this going to be a problem like the old one? Is there something I should do now, or will it straighten itself out as it grows? When I plant it, should I put the root ball in the ground at an angle so the trunk is pointing more or less straight up? Pine tree leaning due to shade on its West side from the eucalyptus. A. As soon as you plant it, the new growth will start straightening (bending toward the light) as it grows. The light will come at it from all different directions than in the nursery. When you plant it, plant it as straight as possible and let the plant figure it what is straight with its new growth. You can help it “straighten out” with pruning. As you guessed, the plant will figure it out as it grows. Pine tree leaning. What is not known to you is that there was a large tree that burned down (died) last year to the left side of that tree on the other side of the wall. That’s why it is leaning. Leaves and buds are light receptors. The side that is open will “fill in” with new growth as long as the plant gets enough light, water and fertilizer to push this new growth. The top growth from leaves and buds (where it “sees” light which determine where and how stems develop) is what we call “positively geotropic” which means it “grows up”. Roots are “negatively geotropic” which is a fancy way of saying roots “grow down”. Of course, root growth is encouraged by water, air, and fertilizer. Top growth is encouraged mostly by light but heavily influenced by irrigating and applying fertilizer to push new growth.

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UNR Extension Tours of Southern Nevada Gardens

              Join the Master Gardener Docents, starting Saturday, November 12, for guided tours of the beautiful and interesting Extension gardens (corner of Paradise and Windmill) as well as its interior courtyard. Lots of different plants to look and learn about. Learn which plants performed the best and why? Learn which plants use the least amount of water and, finally, where you can get them! Dates vary to make it convenient for you! The tours are seasonal, so our fall series of tours is happening now, but the tours will stop in early December and will resume again in the spring, usually from April to June.              Tours are conducted two to three times a month from until April. Register in advance on Eventbrite by typing in Garden Tour in Eventbrite’s search bar. Future tours start mid-mornings and oftentimes last one and half hours. The tours are scheduled on Eventbrite and attendees need to sign up there.             The Extension Botanic Gardens feature over 1500 species of plants, including many found nowhere else in the Las Vegas Valley! Docents lead attendees through highlights of the gardens and answer many different and tough questions about these plants and where you can get them.             Please wear comfortable walking shoes! Tours are fun, informal, and full of exercise. Come join them! For more information call Lauren at 702-940-5432.

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Wind is Damaging to Plants

Windy Weather Windy weather, like we had over a past weekend, is very damaging to plants. (Notice I said “is” and not “can be”?) Light winds cause very little damage. Moderate winds cause moderate amounts of damage. Strong winds cause lots of damage. Why? I can think of at least two reasons; extent of damage and water use. Shallow rooting of tree because of annual flowers planted at its base. Vegetables and Wind             Vegetables grow the best when located closest to the downwind side of a windbreak. Plants don’t care if the windbreak is living or not, they just want the wind slowed. For this reason, the best windbreaks are not solid walls (e.g., block walls) but perforated walls (e.g., chain-link fence with slats inserted in them). Solid walls cause the wind to swirl. Perforated walls cause the wind to slow. Science has shown us the best windbreaks are about 80-90% solid, not 100% solid. Windbreaks for orchard in a canyon Wind Damage and Fruit Trees             Examples of damage include leaf and flower damage with small fruit ripped from the tree with some types of fruit trees. Plants grown in windy spots are smaller than plants grown in protected areas. In strong windy locations I have seen fruit trees that lean away from the wind. Wind damage to fruit trees is the worst on trees closest to the wind. Wind damage lessens on the second and third row of fruit trees. Plant fruit trees in blocks so they give each other wind protection. Locate fruit trees that tolerate wind damage the most on the windward side of the block. Examples of wind tolerant fruit trees are pomegranates, apples, and pears. These trees will protect the less wind tolerant fruit trees. Fruit trees less tolerant of wind include citrus, plums, apricots, and peaches. Wind and Water Use             Plants during windy weather use more water. If the winds are strong and continuous, they use more water! Wind is a strong predictor of plant water use. In fact, along with how bright the sun is shining it is one of the strongest predictors of plant water use.  Pay Attention Go outside in the morning. Look at the weather. Is it bright and sunny with very few clouds in the sky? Winds is a major predictor of high-water use. Look at the trees. Are the leaves moving? Look at a flag flying on a flagpole. Is the flag barely moving? Is the flag flapping a lot? Is the flag rippling because of the wind? Those are indicators of wind strength. Bright, cloudless skies and strong winds equals high water use in our desert climate. It’s time to water during bright windy weather.

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Persian Lilac Can Be Different Things to Different People

Q. I believe you made an error last week about the Chinaberry tree. You said it “is also called Persian lilac and in the United States we sometimes call it the Texas umbrella tree.” I do not believe that the Persian lilac is related at all to the umbrella tree. We had both in our yard years ago, and they were quite different. A. Thanks for your comment and you are right, there is more than one plant called “Persian lilac”. This is where the common names can be confusing.              The Chinaberry tree (Melia azedarach) can also be nicknamed the Persian lilac because of the very perfumy flowers it produces in spring. You can google any of these names on Wikipedia. Melia azedarach on Wikipedia              There is another plant, also called Persian lilac (Syringa x persica), a hybrid lilac very closely related to common and Chinese lilac which is probably what you were growing.  Image of Syringa x persica              We have the same problem with another plant we call mock orange. Locally, our mock orange is a Pittosporum tobira (Wheeler’s Dwarf). This is not the same mock orange known by most of the country. When I was in school, mock orange was a totally different plant with the scientific name Philadelphus coronarius, a flowering relative of hydrangea whose flowers were used for garlands because they have a strong citrus fragrance. Image of Pittosporum Wheelers Dwarf aka Mock orange   Image of Philadelphus coronarius aka Mock orange             I do not to use scientific names in my newspaper column but common names can be confusing for this reason. I appreciate these comments because I’m sure others were thinking the same.

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