Xtremehorticulture

Texas Mountain Laurel Can Make a Medium High Landscape Screen

Q. I had Texas mountain laurel planted in my yard since 1998 and have not trimmed it at all; leaving it to look more shrub-like to act as a privacy screen, between the golf course and our pool.  It blooms profusely, leaving clusters of seed pods.  Would the tree benefit from having the pods removed, or is it best to leave them? Would I get more blooms if I trimmed off the pods? Texas mountain laurel seed pods are objectionable to some and look fine to others. Prune them off if you dont like them. It will not hurt the plant. A. Yes, the pods can be removed, and yes it makes more flowers when removed but the trigger for flowering is mostly in the early spring. Many people like the pods formed from the flowers as as well. The primary reason for removing the pods are looks; some people dont like their looks. Some do. Texas mountain laurel with spring flowers.             Texas mountain laurel is a Chihuahuan desert native plant so it can make a good heat tolerant 15 foot tall hedge after it is established. It would require about 2 to 4 feet of water applied under its canopy when mature. Remove only crossing branches to give it a full appearance and be careful about “limbing it up”. Let only knowledgeable landscapers prune this plant since it recovers slowly if mismanagement. Plant them no closer than about 8 feet apart.          They are relatively slow growing so it makes a privacy hedge that will be slow to fill empty spaces between them. Apply a fertilizer like 16-16-16 once in the early spring to get more and bigger blooms, prune it laterally so that it fills in these empty spaces faster.

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Bay Laurel Good Choice for Chain Link Privacy

Q. I would like to plant an “evergreen” vine/screening plant along a chain link fence to block the neighbor’s yapping dogs (little dogs). Bay Laurel recently planted   That area is quite shady, as there is a row of pine trees (25+ feet tall) 10′ in front of the fence. Currently the lowest limbs are about 7′ off the ground; I can prune them higher if need be.  These trees were planted too close together, so they are “wimpy”… too crowded/too much shade. If the “screening plant” could be something edible (even edible flowers) that would be even better.  I’m going to plant Goji berries farther down the fence line where there is full sun… I don’t think that they would do well in this area (about 60′ long).  I live in Pahrump so the winters get below freezing… thanks for any suggestions that you may have! Bay Laurel Andrea Meckley, CH [email protected] April 4, 2014 Bay Laurel 24 inch box after one year I suggest a shrub called Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis) column form over a vine for this situation.   This hardy evergreen is low-maintenance and you can use the bay leaves in cooking.    Don’t trim the width and when it grows to the limbs of the pine trees, top trim and it will bush out more.  Not a fast grower.     An alternative plant suggestion is Vinca Vine (Vinca minor) which is an aggressive, never get rid of vine that will accept the shade and can be weaved in the chain-link fence as it grows. So space plants depending on size of plant installed and patience level. Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis): Description:  Upright shrub or tree Mature size: 20 feet high x 20 feet wide Water use: medium water user-water as a tree Sun exposure preferred:  Shade to full sun-North, east or west facing will all work Origin:  Mediterranean Uses:  Screen, shade, leaves for cooking Bay Laurel in standard tree form Flower color and season:  Spring yellow clusters sometimes Evergreen

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Using Ficus as a Hedge/Screen Around a Pool in Phoenix

You scared me for a minute. I’m in Las Vegas so when I saw your Ficus mentioned I was concerned. I am less concerned with it in the Phoenix area but the pool area puts it in a different twist and you still have to worry about freezing damage.             But I am going to copy this to my good friend Terry Mikel who was your Extension Specialist in Maricopa County with the main office in Phoenix. He is better at answering this one and I will post his answer. He is in retirement but I am SURE he will come out of hiding on this one! Q. I live in Glendale Arizona. I have a 45ft section of 6 foot brick wall that I would like to plant Ficus nitida along. There is a 4 foot width between the wall and a plaster underground swimming pool. No problem watering the hedge?  But will this plant seek the pool water and cause a problem. I am not worried about frost. I want a 10 foot hedge when done. A. Your thoughts about having a hedge sound good.  Ficus microcarpa sub species/or cultivar ‘Nitida’ can fit the situation; its clean (no real messes). evergreen and makes a dense wall of foliage.             I have to use the term ‘can’ with a couple caveats.  1. This plant can grow to a very large size.  Frosts every few years help keep them in check.  And pruning can, to a certain degree keep them in check.  But, frosts and pruning will be a continuous battle against their genetics: it wants to be a 60′ tall and 80′ wide tree. 2. This species of Ficus will after time develop huge surface roots that will lift, push or barge anything in their path.  It’s their genetics and watering will have little, if any affect so the wall to the one side and any pool decking on the other side will be vulnerable to the large lifting roots.             Your one concern about them ‘seeking’ water is a commonly misunderstood trait of any plant. . . Plants do not search out water, period.  Plants send out roots randomly in all directions and roots that run into a water source will proliferate.             Pool sides, if sound will be the same a rock in nature, the roots will try to grow up, under, or around any solid object.             If, and this is a big if there is the slightest oozing leak from the pool’s wall  and a root meanders there then it will grow and proliferate in response.  That’s where the issue of roots and pools becomes a problem.             Personally, the Ficus is overused and most people who grow them quickly tire of all the problems with them.  If anyone who knew much about them would warn folks against using them except for large evergreen tree.             Your setting is a little bit of a challenge. You might think about something much less vigorous with fewer potential problems and some have blooms (a potential ‘mess’ issue). Look at: citrus, Hop Seed Bush (Dodonea), Xylosma (both common and botanical name), Arizona Rosewood (or any in that genus of Vauquelinia), one of the many different blooming colors of Arizona Yellow Bells (Tecoma and various species and varieties), Petite Oleanders have been used in that setting for generations.             Every person’s ‘likes’ and ‘dislikes’ vary. Check with your water department and pick up some of the nice booklets about planning and plants for the landscape. These were produced by the Arizona Municipal Water Users’ Association, more lovingly called AMWUA to be distributed in the different communities.             Another resource might be going to the Mountain States Wholesale Nursery (MSWN.com) site for a truly complete list of plants that are well adapted in the lower Sonoran desert. They also produce some for the higher deserts but their main goal is for lower deserts. . Respectfully, Terry H. Mikel

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