Xtremehorticulture

Pruning Oleander into a Multi-Trunked Tree

Q. I have two, 7 foot tall oleander bushes about 8 feet apart. Can I turn them into trees by cutting all the branches to the ground except for the largest, fattest branch in the middle? I know the suckers will be a problem for a while. Also, is it safe to grow a small vegetable or herb garden between them? Is oleander flower and leaf mulch safe around the edible garden?                      A. Yes, you have the right idea. Oleanders can make very nice small trees but the suckers at the base will be a problem for several years. Oleander pruned to a multi-trunked tree and in bloom. They can be made into a single trunk or a multi-trunked tree. Multi-trunk trees are easier to manage. Select 5 to 7 stems, or branches as you call them, coming from the base and going in different directions. Odd numbers of branches are more pleasing to the eye than an even number. Those are the stems you will keep. They should be large and vigorous. Oleander suckering from the base when pruned as a multi-trunked tree. Remove all other stems as close to the ground as possible. A reciprocating saw with a pruning blade is an easy way to remove them than a saw or loppers. Remove side branches from the stems up to a height that looks good to you. The trunks should be cleaned of side branches. Make sure you cut these side branches as close to the trunk as possible. Clean the trunks anywhere from 2 feet up to about 4 feet. New stems will sucker from the base throughout the growing season for several years. This is because oleander wants to be a shrub. You are forcing it to be a tree so it will try to revert back to a shrub. As soon as suckers emerge from the base, remove them by pulling rather than cutting. If you pull them when they are very new they are easy to remove. Removal by pulling causes fewer suckers in the future than cutting them. Oleanders are poisonous but research from California demonstrated that leaves and stems can be composted and returned to the soil without problems for other plants including vegetables.  http://slosson.ucdavis.edu/newsletters/Downer_199829067.pdf

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When and How to Prune Lantana and Oleander?

Q. How and when should we prune our lantana and oleanders? This is a Lantana I saw pruned by a local company. Leaving this much wood remaining will make it very “twiggy” at the base. You can actually prune it much closer to the ground in this. You can see from this close-up that I took last February that suckering can occur much lower on the stems of Lantana. Don’t be afraid to cut it close to the ground. Leave about 1 inch for suckering. A. Both of these plants are pruned during the winter months since they both produce flowers on new growth during the summer months. After pruning, apply a high nitrogen and high phosphorus fertilizer to push new leaf and stem growth and dark green color. The phosphorus will help to promote flowering. Flowering will not occur until the top growth is large enough and comes into balance with the existing root size. This is sometimes referred to as the root to shoot ratio.  I would delay pruning them until late winter (late January) unless you don’t mind looking at “dead” space (the space is not occupied by anything). For lantana it normally freezes during winter months and you have a choice whether to leave the dead top of the plant in place or cut it down to the ground, leaving one inch of stems remaining to support the new growth beginning in February. You can prune oleander close to the ground, just like Lantana. Cut it back to within 2 to 3 inches of the soil surface. This is the time of year to do it up until about the end of January when it begins to push new growth all by itself.             Because the roots are fully grown, alive and healthy you will see very rapid growth in the spring. Fertilize the pruned plant in late January or early February to encourage new growth and flowers. Use a fertilizer that supports flowering plants such as a rose fertilizer blend or other fertilizer for flowering plants. You can see from this picture that new growth is beginning to sucker from the base just like Lantana. Apply a fertilizer near the base of the plant close to a source of water. Use the same fertilizer as the Lantana. A rose type fertilizer is fine. Oleander will regrow very quickly when cut back close to the ground, fertilized and watered. This was one month after pruning. Nitrogen in the fertilizer will push leaf and stem growth along with dark green color. Phosphorus in the fertilizer will push flower growth and flower size.             Oleander is pruned at the same time of year as lantana because it also blooms on new growth, not older growth. You can chose to remove 1/3 of the plant by cutting these largest stems to the ground for renewed growth at the base or you can cut the entire plant to the ground and let it regrow. Your choice. Either way you will see luxurious growth and lots of flowers next year. Again use a fertilizer that supports flower growth and apply it early in the spring. This is an example of a fertilizer that will push leaf and stem growth and dark green color. You would apply this immediately after pruning and water it in. A 10 pound bag sells locally for $7.95 This is an example of a fertilizer that it increases the number of flowers and their size. It should be applied about 4 to 6 weeks later. A 10 pound bag also sells for $7.95 .

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Relocating Oleander Requires Drastic Measures.

Q. I dug up some standard sized oleanders from my neighbor’s yard. They were healthy for years and some were 8 to 9 feet tall. I transplanted them about six weeks ago and used transplanting fluid every 6 to 7 days. I also watered them every few days. The leaves are all dry and crinkled so I pull them off. They are dead now and just look like sticks. But I see new growth coming from the base. My husband tells me to pull them out and buy some new ones. Will these make it? A. When you dig up plants that are this old you can only get about 10% of their root system. With a Oleander will sucker from the base if it is cut back. When relocating an older Oleander you should cut them back to make up for the lost roots. very small percentage of the root system they will have considerable die back. If they make it at all, they will do exactly what you’ve described and that is to regrow from the base. If you want to keep them, it is best to just cut them off with a few inches above the ground and let them regrow from the base. Just keep the soil around the roots watering about once a week now and twice a week when it gets really hot. They will survive and I would be surprised if anything grows from the stems that are taller. The transplanting fluid was not necessary. They would’ve done what they’re doing right now with or without it. In the future when you move plants that have been in the ground for more than two or three years the success rate is pretty low unless you have a history of doing it successfully.

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Best Time for Pruning Oleander

Q. I contacted the Extension Service about my oleander. They sent me a great publication about it but my main concern is pruning. I purchased the dwarf plants two years ago in five gallon containers. They are doing fine but are about four feet high. It is my understanding the plants can be pruned. I need to know the best time to do so and how far down to go without harming them. A. Pruning oleander is very simple, much simpler than many other plants. You can prune them any time of the year but the best time is in the winter. The incorrect way is to use hedge shears if you want flowers consistently. Oleander suckering from base after pruning. You can prune them with hand pruners, preferably a type called a bypass shears. Corona makes good ones that are not very expensive. Count the number of main stems coming from the base of the plant. Identify the oldest (largest in diameter) stems. Remove one third of these larger stems leaving one or two inches above ground. You are done! You will do this about every two or three years. No hedge shears. It takes about ten minutes and no mess to clean up! If there are some unusually long ones remove them from the base as well. Removing larger stems will force new growth like this from the base. Having said this, the absolute best time to do this is February and March but you can do it any time!

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