Xtremehorticulture

Queen Palm Not A Good Choice in Desert Climates and Soils

Q. Our backyard is in full sun, gets very windy, and has very poor soil. We are landscaping around a new pool and would like a tropical look. We would love to put in a queen palm but we read they may not do well here. Any suggestions for a different palm like Kentia or Foxtail? A. The queen palm won’t work in your situation. It does not like poor soils, heat, lack of humidity and wind. It is not a good choice for our hot desert climate in general. Queen palm tends to look “ratty” in our desert climate and soils. Be careful planting palms near a pool. Most people do not like the seeds dropping and the mess it makes. The only palm which stays small and hearty for our area is the windmill palm. The pygmy date palm is a possibility but it is sensitive to our winter temperatures and may suffer from winter freezing. The Mediterranean fan palm stays short but can get quite large in diameter. Both Kentia and Foxtail palms are not meant for our climate. Kentia palm is considered a “tropical” palm and intended for interior use in desert climates. There are plenty of plants that give a tropical look to a landscape that are desert adapted and tolerant of our soils. Mesquite, desert bird of paradise, flax, ornamental grasses, canna lilies, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Gold dust plant (shade), papyrus, nandina, mock orange, cats claw vine, can be used to mention a few. Tropical looking landscapes should be densely planted and designated as a high water use area. Use compost and wood chip surface mulches that won’t blow easily to improve our soils and their growth. 

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Bring Back Queen Palm from the Dead

Q. During the excessive hot spell in July our irrigation failed while we were out of town. As a result, one of our queen palms lost all its branches. In spite of subsequent life support, it does not appear to be coming back. Is that too much to hope for? Is there anything we can do to help it recover or should we just mourn its passing? Queen palms dead during first winter planted (1989/90) at local casino. Admittedly temperatures hit a 50 year low. A. Queen palms can handle heat but they struggle with extreme cold (25F) and hot, dry winds. In short, among the approximately ten palms we can grow here, they are not among the “chosen ones”. However, if these plants are water stressed or planted under poor soil conditions then they will not tolerate heat very well either.  Queen palm fronds from central bud yellowing during new growth             The only places here where I have seen decent, older queen palms has been in areas protected from wind, the soil prepared adequately with amendments and the use of organic surface mulches.  Queen palm with yellowing foliage after planting in rock mulch. Probably iron chlorosis and poor soil enrichment at planting.             Once they are stressed and water is withheld, they will suffer greatly. They need adequate soil preparation at the time of planting, good drainage, protection from winds and low temperatures, an annual fertilization program and organic surface mulches.

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Queen Palms Must Be Treated Like Queens If They Are to Survive in the Desert

Queen palms planted in front of a casino dead after winter freeze in Las Vegas Q. Hi, I’m a follower of your blog and I have two questions if you don’t mind answering them.  First, what is your overall opinion of queen palms in the Las Vegas climate?  It seems like every winter they struggle but eventually come back in the late spring, early summer.  My second question is, what is the best water requirement for a 15 gallon queen?  Is it best to have a few 4 gallon emitters over an hour time or many 1 gallon emitters over a few hours?  I’m just curious what is the best way to water them.  Also do I water every other day or 3 days a week in the summer months?  I would greatly appreciate a response!  Thanks in advance A. Queen palm is not the best choice in palm trees for our climate in general. This is a harsh environment for them particularly our very low winter temperatures, our lack of humidity, strong dry winds and poor soils. Once we recognize this then we can begin to address the situation and determine if a queen palm is a good choice for us and what we will have to do to get it to work here. The absolute worst thing you can do with a queen palm is put it directly into a very our harsh climate, fully exposed to the elements and not amend the soil or amend it very little.             If you were to plant it in our desert environment then you would try to find a place for it out of strong winds, protected from extreme winter low temperatures and amend the soil adequately at planting time and use organic surface mulches that break down and improve the soil over time. This is hard to find here in Las Vegas so planting them here will have poor results unless you can find this ideal micro environment; not impossible but hard to find. Queen palm planted in rock/desert landscape and yellowing or chlorotic due to poor soil conditions             Palms are high water users in the small space that they occupy. So water does not have to be applied over a large area but should be applied in an area equal to at least half of the spread of their canopy. The water should be applied so that it soaks the soil down to about 24 inches each time you water.             The soil should never go totally dry and surface mulches will help in this. Also planting understory plants that require more frequent watering will also help. How many gallons does a 15 gallon palm require? About 7 to 10 gallons each time you water or about half to 2/3 of the volume of the container (even though a 15 gallon container does not hold 15 gallons).             Four emitters would be good in a square pattern about a foot from the trunk. How many minutes (or hours) should you run it? I don’t know. Depends on your emitters. If these are 2 gallon per hour emitters then 60 to 75 minutes.             The other question to answer in watering is how often. You are asking about a one day difference in your watering. I really cant tell you that without knowing more about your soil and how much water it holds. If it drains freely and doesn’t hold much water then every other day now. If this is a soil that can hold a bit more then every third day would be good.             Why don’t you try using a houseplant soil moisture meter to help determine the how wet the soil is before you irrigate. Once you do this a couple of times it will become more intuitive about how often to water.

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