Xtremehorticulture

Root Rot on Pines?

 Q. I have several very large pine trees that have been in ground since 2002. Due to heavy winds, one was felled, and the trunk broke. Upon inspection, it looked like root rot! Can you advise how much water these trees need in winter and summer. I want to be sure the see does not happen to others. A. Make sure the trees have water applied to a wide area, equal to about half the spread of their canopies. Tree roots follow applied water in the desert. Pine trees are relatively deep rooted. For this reason, apply water to them deeply. However, if the soil is hard, and the water applied too rapidly, the water may begin puddling and the tree can blow over easily. Watering plants in the desert tells them where you want their roots to grow. The roots of any large tree near a wall is a “recipe for disaster”. This large pine tree eventually heaved this wall when the roots “grew looking for water”. The roots heaved the wall. The other problem is watering. If they are given small drinks of water frequently (think planting in lawns) they develop roots that are shallow and will not hold them upright during strong winds.  When planting pine trees it may be a good idea to plant other smaller shrubs around its canopy. Pine tree roots will grow where the shrubs area as well and help support it. Unless you know what you are doing, it may be a bad idea to have a pine tree planted all by itself surrounded by desert soil that is not irrigated. These trees will blow over.  Place plants around the pine tree that are throughout its canopy as it grows larger. Putting irrigated shrubs around pine trees helps the pine tree roots to grow into the surrounding soil and become more firmly anchored. It is not something mystical about the surrounding plants. It is because these plants are irrigated, and they share water with the pine trees.

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Century Plant (American Agave) Not Growing Well

Q. We have a century plant thriving over the past 10-12 years in our front yard. Towards the end of summer, we noticed lower leaves getting soft and tender, leathery even, eventually turning yellow. No new shoots are visible emerging from the core. It gets watered occasionally. Century plant or American agave. A magnet for agave weevils. A. Century plant is an agave weevil magnet! My guess is that’s the problem. The only method I know to control agave weevil is to apply an insecticide around the base of all agaves in March or April of every spring. The insecticide is used to protect the plant from spring infestations. Sprinkle a granular insecticide at the base of the plant and lightly water it. The other option is possibly to drench the soil immediately around the agave with systemic such as imidacloprid (if the label permits).  Warning sign of American agave that it might have agave weevils. Apply granular insecticide in the spring as a prophylactic treatment.             The adult weevils have wings and can fly. They can fly from a neighbor’s plants to a different neighbor’s landscape. These adult beetles lay their eggs in the crotches of the agave in the spring. They don’t use calendars but fly during the spring when it’s perfect weather. That is why the timing for an application is sometime “in the spring”. The “grubs” hatch from the eggs and tunnel inside the core of many different types of agaves and cause their tunneling damage. Sometimes the damage is so severe it kills the plants outright or it might cause a smaller problem when plants are larger. This is the type of problem agave weevil can do on established plants. Notice the base was rotten and the plant “collapsed”.             The other usual problem is watering too often. This can weaken or kill the plant. It doesn’t sound like that is your problem. I would caution you to water the plants deeply and not just a sprinkle them with a hose. Depending on the size of the agave it can take from 5 to 15 gallons of water varying from a small to a large American agave. If the American agave is large, then use three drip emitters located about 12 to 18 inches from the plant in a triangular spacing and watch for signs of stress. Apply water about three to six weeks apart during the summer.

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Succulents for Las Vegas Gardens

Q. I have a succulent garden which is under our patio cover.  Periodically a plant that seems to being doing well suddenly goes sour. I use a moisture meter and try not to overwater. When propagating plants from seed or cuttings sanitation is very very important. These are babies just getting started!!! A. All cacti are classified as succulents but not all succulents are classified as cacti. What we consider succulents from our deserts usually require more care than cacti from our deserts. This means they usually need more protection from the sun, wind and a bit more water. Sanitation I am a firm believer in keeping everything as clean as possible. First is the potting soil. When potting soil is reused, sanitize it or get new potting soil.             Do this easily by putting the moist soil, or the entire container a few days after an irrigation, in a clear plastic bag in full sun during the summer. Make sure there are no air leaks. Let it sit like this for about three days. Heating up everything to about 160F. for at least 30 minutes sanitizes it. This method is called solarization.              Sanitize or sterilize all of the equipment with 70% ethyl alcohol: particularly anything with a blade.             Sometimes the plant part (seeds or cuttings) were not healthy or strong enough until they grew roots. Some older fungicides, namely Captan, Thiram, Zineb (dust, powder or wettable powder), were available to protect the roots until the plant got established in the ground. We would put a small amount on the flat end of a wooden toothpick in a seed packet and shake it (seed treatment) or dip cuttings to protect the roots until the plants were established.

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Container Gardenia Leaves Yellowing and Falling

Q. I have a gardenia that is approximately four years old.  It blooms yearly and was doing great.  All of a sudden, literally overnight, the leaves turned yellow and are falling off. What has happened?  I water it daily, it is on the patio, outside where it has always been, in the shade. A. I think your gardenia developed rot. The symptoms of root rot our yellowing leaves and leaf drop. Frequently the plant dies a relatively slow death unless it’s in the heat, then it could be rapid.             Container plants need to be repotted regularly. When we grow in containers, the soil organic matter (this is the component of the soil that helps keeps soil loose and gives good air exchange to the roots) begins disappearing at a steady rate. In a couple of years it will be in critical short supply.             As this soil organic matter disappears, the open spaces in the soils that help with drainage and air exchange, diminishes. At the very beginning, a good container soil may contain as much as 50% of its volume as pore space.             In about three years this pore space may drop to only 20 or 15%. Basically the soil collapses, losing its pore space. This might be okay for a palm growing in a container but gardenias need soils with lots of pore spaces.             The soil becomes more dense, water drains through it more slowly, the soil stays wet longer, salts begin to accumulate and the roots begin to suffocate.             Soil diseases attack the weakened roots, roots begin to die, leaves begin to yellow and drop from plant.             Soils in containers need to be renewed every two to three years depending on the type of plant. Since gardenia is very susceptible to rots and grows much better in aerated soils, I would repot it no longer than every other year.             If the Gardenia is not too far along in leaf yellowing and leaf drop, you might be able to save it. Go to your favorite nursery or garden center and purchase a good quality container soil, enough to refill the container. When you are there, purchase a chemical fungicide called Subdue. Subdue fungicide does a good job in controlling several of the root rot disease organisms. Applying a fungicide alone will not solve the problem so you must repot the plant as well. The plant can be put back in the same container if it is sanitized on the inside or use a different clean container.             Remove the plant from the container during the cool temperatures of the morning and out of direct sunlight. Once the plant has been removed from the container, you must repot it quickly because the tiny feeder roots are continually dying after removal from the soil and drying out. Place the plant on a clean surface and gently wash the soil away from the plant roots.             Thoroughly clean the container and sanitize the inside of it with a 200 ppm solution of bleach and water. This would be about on tablespoon of bleach in one gallon of water. Rinse the container and wipe out the excess with a clean rag or towel. Let it air dry in the sun for a few minutes to let the chlorine dissipate. Or use a clean, fresh container.             Once you have removed as much soil from the roots as possible with water, you can repot the plant and use tap water to resettle the soil around the roots and remove air pockets. You will apply the subdue fungicide according to the label and water it into the soil of the repotted plant as a soil drench. Follow label directions. Fertilize the plant as you would normally and watch for new growth to come from leafless stems that are still alive. Once a year or once every two years remove about one third of the soil from the container and add new container soil.

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Wood Mulch Around New Gardenias Can Create Problems

Q. I planted about 12 gardenias a couple of months ago and they appear to be dying. I checked the soil and it’s evenly damp. They have two, 2gph emitters and they were all being watered three times a week for 20 minutes. Gardenia with wood mulch applied to the base Gardenia showing signs of wilting A. From the picture you sent it looks like a lack of water. Before you saying “No, can’t be” let me explain something.             You have a lot invested in those gardenias. From the picture I can see you applied surface wood mulch surrounding plants and it looks quite deep. Nice job. These gardenias will appreciate the wood mulch.             However, wood mulch can create a problem around young plants. When this wood mulch is in contact with the stems of young plants, it can keep the surrounding soil and stem too wet. This constant “wetness” around the stem can foster a disease called “collar rot”. Disease organisms attack the stem, essentially choking the plant, and shutting off its water supply.  Diseases of Gardenias             Pull the mulch away from the stems about 12 inches and do not let it come in direct contact with the stem. The wood mulch will help the plants but it cannot come in contact with young stems until they get quite a bit older.

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Bottle Tree Losing Leaves

Q. I have bottle trees planted next to the house and for some reason the one in the middle is losing leaves on the bottom branches. The trees are getting watered two times each week for 40 minutes. I cleared out the rock mulch and replaced it with cedar mulch around the base of the tree. I lost a bottle tree last year so I’m trying to figure out why. A. Bottle trees represent about 15 or 20 different types. All of them have a swollen trunk which, some people speculate, they use for storing some water during dry periods. We typically use only one type of bottle tree in the valley.             The cedar mulch won’t add any nutrients to the soil but it will slow evaporation of water from the soil surface. Bend side branches without leaves to see if they are dead. If they are still flexible and don’t snap, they may come back when it cools.             Remove any branches that are growing toward the house. Planting those trees in that location was not the best idea.             I remember these trees being brought into the valley as early as the late 1980s during our first push on desert landscaping. They were brought in by landscape contractors and architects because they were being used primarily in Southern California.             The first problem I remember was irrigation. People did not know that these trees required watering less often. They were watering them much like any other landscape plant. These trees are very susceptible to over irrigating.             Although not a desert tree like the Acacia, it does handle arid climates and infrequent waterings. These waterings, when they do occur, should flood the entire root system about 2 to 3 times a month during the summer. The next irrigation should not occur until the soil is dry or you run the chance of getting root rot and the tree may suddenly die during the summer heat.             The next problem was how they were being used. The tree needs to be in full sun. They should not be planted against hot South or West facing wall. Very young, green trunks of this tree can get severe sunscald in these locations followed by limb and branch death.

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Junipers Dying Planted in Same Spot

Q. We have a problem with our Japanese Junipers. We have planted them twice now and not very successfully. They all get the same amount of water, sun exposure, etc., however the 2 of them closest to our front door seem to die back and the other 2 stay green. We are not sure what the problem is and wondering if you can give any advice.  We love these and they are spreading like crazy since we put them in, until about 2 months ago, when the 2 started dying. Enclosed are pictures of our junipers. A. A couple of things. First, I am not sure what a Japanese juniper is. Thre is a Jap garden juniper. There are Chinese junipers, and then we have probably dozens of others as well. From your description it sounds like a juniper that is a small shrub that mounds as it grows. That should be enough to get going.             There are also junipers that are upright like a small tree. Next there were no pictures attached. But I will take a stab at it any way. I usually try to stay with the most common problems if it seems it fits.             The usual reason junipers give up the ghost quickly like overnight is watering too often, the soil not draining well enough and the roots becoming diseased from too much water. Usually junipers that are in this category seem to die overnight.             Another common problem is spider mites on junipers. These small spider-like creatures usually become a problem in the heat of the summer, not in the cooler months. Often these pests are problems a couple of weeks after we spray an insecticide like Sevin to control some other pest.             If this sounds familiar to you then we might have a root rot problem going on with your junipers. The problem now is that this root rot disease will stick around in this soil and if you replant in the same hole there is enough disease potential built up the next junipers die as well from the same disease problem.             Two things you can do. First, dig up the soil and add a lot of organic matter like compost so the soil does not hold water easily but drains after and watering. This is frequently a problem in soils close to a foundation where the contractors dump debris, leftovers and compact the soil. In this case if the soil is not draining well you might have to dig up this soil and put in some better soil and replace it.             Secondly you might want to put a different plant in there, one that is not quite susceptible to root rot problems and stay away from junipers there.

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Rosemary Bush Very Susceptible to Dieback if Overwatered

Rosemary dieback from reader Q. Can you diagnose what is wrong with my rosemary bush?  We have two rosemary bushes which are less than three-feet apart.  One is beautiful; the other has die-back in the center.  The one that has the die-back was replaced last year because the previous one had the same problem.      Both of these plants receive the same water and the same fertilizer.  When I replaced the rosemary plant last year, I did a 50/50 mix of compost and native soil.  I don’t see any pests on either of the plants.  Any suggestions? A. I looked at the pictures. There are no specific pests that would cause this type of damage on rosemary. The most likely culprits would be physical damage to the stems (broken stems) or root rot or collar rot from either planting it too deeply or keeping the soil around the one with dieback too wet. Healthy rosemary of reader             If the soil was heavily amended with mulch or compost and it was planted in this then it is possible it could have been planted too deeply while the other one was not. Sometimes plants will sink in the planting hole if the soil is too “fluffy” at the time of planting.             This sinking and soil consequently coming in contact with the stem due to follow-up waterings, can cause the main stem or side stems to decay and then entire stems can dieback.             I would carefully lift the plant out with a shovel and examine the main stem or trunk and side stems and see if they were planted too deeply. Rosemary is very susceptible to collar rot or keeping the soil too wet. If the stems are rotten, dispose and replant in a new location.

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